Greydog

Your maps are all updated so YAY Sadly like so many organisations "Covid" is becoming a thin excuse but I guess we will have to live with it for awhile yet. Then like a revolving door Brexit will come back 😂

Hi Richard Welcome to the Forum Have you had an issue with Regeneration? The process should manage it's self normally a couple of good blasts 30 min to an hour once or twice a month should trigger it. If your normal journey cycle is short trips then the EGR and DPF can start to soot up, cleaning the EGR and a few good runs will normally do the job. What ever the connection method Bluetooth (ELM) or Cable you will need either a Diagnostic program on a tablet/laptop or a Dedicated diagnostic tool There are now several alternatives that are BMW capable Foxwell, iCarsoft, Carly for BMW (this one is a subscription system) or Software for Tablet/Laptop such as INPA/ISTA or Pa Soft As the old saying goes "we pay our money and make our choice" personal choice for your model INPA/ISTA or latest PA Soft Dave

Hi Ajm72n Welcome to the Forum# Most of the connections should be there, you may need some a sub loom or two, plus the switch panel Check www.realoem.com put the last 7 digits of your Vin number into the search box it will bring up your model then reach the relevant sections for the part numbers you need to do the installation. Oh dont forget the fuses they probably aren't there either Dave

The Beatles Blue Album is on at the moment and will be followed by George Micheal

Morning Kenny I brought mine through Ebay in 2005 (it was really cheap then) I found INPA/ISTA brought complete with cable I found it fiddly to and get get going (it may be much easier now) so I also brought a copy of BMW 1.4.0 with cable. It loaded easily and I found/find it easier to navigate and use so it's still my 1st choice. INPA/ISTA does have the TIS function which I use though. Just took a quick look at Ebay Full copy of INPA/ISTA with cable is about £70 BMW 1.4.0 is £15 both still a bargain when you think my local BMW Dealer is around £200 per/hr labour so a Diagnostic session will be at least £150 possibly more. I have an old Dell laptop Win 7 version (Office unloaded) that I first loaded Volvo Diagnostics onto followed by Mercedes Star, BMW INPA/ISTA, BMW 1.4.0 and Subaru. It is old and slow loading but serviceable. It sits on the shelf with 2 Autel hand scanners that get used on friends and neighbours cars from time to time. My son's and their friends like Dad's garage all the tools and a beer fridge and providing they clean my tools and restock the fridge they are welcome. Never tried them on a External drive can't see a reason for it not working providing they are all compatible with your operating system (ie a 32 bit prog won't play nicely with a 64 bit system ) Good luck Dave

Don't over think things Alex When did the Dealer you purchased from get the car? the process time line could well be something like, Traded in at Main dealer, sits in Dealers yard until decisions made whether to put it on the Forecourt or sell it at Trade auction (Main Dealers make their decision based on cars in stock? Is it a popular model? Mileage and condition). Your Dealer buys it and puts it on his Forecourt, how long was it there? Often cars sit at the Auction yard until transport is available if more than 1 car was purchased. So 500 miles in 6 months is very possible. You can check yourself by measuring wheel centre to wheel centre on each side, they should match Then put a spirit level vertically through the wheel centre and chalk mark the floor, repeat on all 4 wheels then measure diagonally front to rear, if there is more than a few mm variance get it checked professionally Dave

Yay that's a win then What's next Dave

Morning Paul Welcome to the Forum We have done this on my brother inlaws last 3, 5 series an all I can say is Arrrrrgh last time took almost two hours and we left the car running. If I remember you can check the version in the Idrive something like "select map, move the Idrive right you get settings scroll own the last setting (I think) select and it should show the version loaded. BMW make things so convoluted even with the DVD nav the software and maps are separate??? Why Dave

Morning Paula Glad you have a sensible resolution though sadly another demonstration that we don't have mechanics in main dealerships anymore just fitters who change parts without thought to the Customers Wallet. Good luck with trying to retain the part/parts BMW normally retain stuff Dave

Morning Stewart Take a look at the Diagram below, the torque converter is large piece in the Bell Housing at the engine end in the blue section and as you can see not accessible from the sump. The torque converter lock up clutch is mechanical not electronic. It is in effect doing the job of the Clutch in a Manual car and is separate from the gearbox Back to my question "how does the car drive?" if it drives OK I would be inclined to try a tube of DR Tranny it really does help in some cases. Then clear the fault run it for a few miles and check and clear it again if necessary. To be sure of the issue you need a BMW specific diagnostic reader, Autel are great (I have 2) but for BMW a specific reader will gives so much more information, example my BMW 1.4.0 can identify which parking sensor is not working and whether it is the sensor or wiring, Autel wouldn't know I have Parking sensors let alone which one was faulty. On an old laptop I have programs for Volvo, Mercedes, BMW, and Subaru the most expensive was the Volvo software at £70 The Autel units I use on other makes Peugeot, french poo, Toyota etc owned by friends (mainly our sons) and neighbours. http://x-engineer.org/wp-content/uploads/2017/02/Automatic-transmission-with-torque-converter.jpg?8a0af4&8a0af4 So if the car is driving OK changes are smooth no clonks snatches or lurches going up and down the box then I would try Dr Tranny in the first instance. Changing filters and fluids will never fix a mechanical issue (worn clutches etc) an additive like Dr Tranny can help the torque converter extend it's life but again can't fix a worn out or damaged clutch. Torque converters are sealed unit, working on them requires them to be cut open rebuilt and welded back together so are not something for the home mechanic. Access to the Torque converter requires the box to be removed then the Torque converter can be removed (Note. The Torque converter holds a fair amount of transmission fluid so if you don't want a mess have a tub ready) Dave

As my previous reply Paula Get a Second Opinion from either a Transmission Specialist or a BMW Specialist There is a Register of BMW Specialists so there should be one near you. Also go after BMW UK for at the very least a contribution as a good will gesture Dave

Get your tape measure out Faye

Hi Paula That sounds extreme, at 51k the box wouldn't even be due a service. What do they attribute their diagnosis to ? Not heard of Transmission failures I was fully aware of the Timing chain issues on the small diesel engines. If I recall correctly the GS6-17 gearbox in your car is made by Getrag who are well known and been around for years gearboxes often outlast engines, so this is unusual in my opinion I take it that it is a BMW Main Dealer you are dealing with? What symptoms were you experiencing that they were investigating to come up with this? Did you have particular symptoms, difficult changes, shuddering, noises? If the car was purchased new and BMW serviced I think first I would get a Second opinion from an Independent BMW Specialist don't give them clues just ask them to investigate, then talk to BMW Customer Services direct put it in writing and ask why/how this is possible. At this low age/mileage you may still have some protection under the Sale of Goods Act as it certainly isn't fit for purpose if it fails this early. Dave

Morning Laurence First software there are now several alternatives to Dedicated BMW software like INPA/ISTA which can be fiddly to set up. Others such as Icarsoft, Foxwell, Carly for BMW (this is subscription though) PASoft BMW 1.4.0 are available online. I use BMW 1.4.0 for our Vintage of car and INPA/ISTA for newer models. The module I think your mechanic talked about is the Light Control Module (sometimes referred to as the LCM or FCM or FRM) A word of caution as your car was laid up there could be issues with other modules such as ABS due to corrosion. Don't panic there are several companies out there that can repair the modules a few offer 48hr turnaround. However a diagnostic session is the way forward it will save a lot of time/money in the long run. Any of the systems above will cost about the same as a single Diagnostic Session in a garage so good investment for the future. Headlights, are they suffering from condensation inside or cloudy outside ? If it is condensation inside then bulbs out and a hair dryer or heat gun on a low setting should clear it. If it is greyish road film on the outside of the lens then there are several Lens cleaning kits out there online or from Auto Factors just google it they work really well just take your time and if you do it on the car make sure you mask around the lamp to protect the paint. Dave

Morning Dan Sounds like your last service garage was at best incompetent !!!!! At worst dangerous Following your observation that the level sensor indicated 3/4 even after you topped it up I would get it changed as a matter of course when they are doing the service/oil change. It is important as overfilling can do almost as much damage as low oil. Dave

Hi Laurence When you go into realoem look in the section for Vehicle Electrical System there is a sub section for all control modules For "how too" try www.pelican parts.com its an American site so steering on the wrong side but modules are normally all in the same place. I have never poked around in a 7 series so they may have positioned it there Dave

Makes it fun though Dan you see your own message and think who sent that 🤣 Yes electrical gremlins, I spent years in business with Industrial Controls sensors hate Vibration, Heat, Moisture and I guess the poor old sensors now get the lot. For oil I never trust them fortunately my X5 has a dip stick (according to my wife 2 one behind the wheel one in the engine 🤣) If I recall to change the oil level sensor you have to drain the oil so it may be awhile before that can be done, but checking cleaning and re-connecting the sensor plug. Getting someone to wiggle it while the engine is running see if the light flashes same with the loom wiggle see if gives a flash. Good Luck Dave

Morning Dan Welcome to the Forum About the age of your car BMW decided to rely on oil pressure/level sensors to provide information on the display about pressure/level. So does your car have a dipstick? How often is oil level checked? Low oil level can trigger the warning as can wrong oil or even just wear and tear oil pumps are mechanical and don't last forever. How many miles has your engine covered? Another culprit could be just a loose connection or faulty oil level/pressure sensor, has the sensor loom and connector been checked/cleaned? Ensure oil level is correct. If you are currently running a 5W30 grade synthetic oil you could go to a 5W40 grade to see if that helps. Your Handbook should give a list of oils you can use. Dave

Morning Stewart I don't know how much you know about the auto boxes, so don't want to sound like "teaching Granny to suck eggs" the mechatronic valve body inside the box only controls gear changes, the torque converter has its own internal centrifugal pump and clutches including the lock up. Fluid changes often don't clear the fluid in the TC it either takes specialist equipment to flush the TC or sometimes 2 or three fluid changes. However if there is a fault with the lock up clutch in the TC the as far as I know the only fix is a new/replacement TC. How does the car drive ? Have you tried clearing down the fault to see if it re-occurs Dave

Morning Paul Not come across this one before ? and didn't realise it was a common issue. I guess a spray upholstery adhesive is the way to go, the most difficult part I think would be making sure all the old stuff is removed so the surfaces are smooth and clean. Removal from the car would be best. Or finding a replacement from a BMW specialist recycler like Quarry Motors might be another route. Dave

Morning Lawrence Welcome to the Forum You say the drivers footwell is your car Left Hand drive ? The LCM/FCM is normally in the left side footwell, removal is fiddly and awkward but not beyond the scope of anyone with some basic tools. So it doesn't need a BMW specialist to remove it from the car any competent garage or home mechanic could do it. You can get the part number by using www.realoem.com put the last 7 digits of your Vin into the search box and it will bring up your model, then search the relevant section for what you need. When you find the unit and part number double click the part number and it will call up a list of alternative part numbers and models that you could use. When refitting the replacement module it will need coding to the car if it isn't you will see a tamper dot beside the mileage on the dash. Everything will work without issue just the tamper dot will be there, BMW will tell you "only They" can program a unit and it has to be a new one purchased from them. They are wrong all you need is someone with a copy of PASoft BMW 1.4.0 or similar (I find BMW 1.4.0 the easiest to do this with though there are others) I have recently carried out the swap on my X5 on 2 x 1 series and 5 series. Good Luck Dave

Hi Welcome to the Forum Search www.realoem.com Its a BMW online parts list put the last 7 digits of your vin into the search box it will pull up your model check the relevant section for the part number then Google it for best price Aerosus are a good aftermarket for the X5 but yours may well have EDC so that will make a difference I believe Bilstein are also manufacturers. Dave

Hi Paul Taking stuff off all you need in the tool box is a Dwarf with 9" long double jointed fingers the grip like Mole grips 😅 Dry solder joints are a known issue so the intermittent nature of the fault could be there? I would also reconnect the plugs with the LCM loose then moving/twisting the loom will show any fault there, also check the earth point. If the issue is dry solder joints companies like BBA Reman and ECU Testing offer 24 hour repair and you will avoid any need to re-program. Dave

Hi Lee Welcome to the Forum My first stop is www.realoem.com put the last 7 digits of your Vin into the search box it will call up your Model then search the relevant section for the part numbers you need. Once you have the part number then Google is your friend, don't dismiss BMW dealers some give excellent discounts for older models. Dave

Hi Owen Check www.realoem.com It is an Online BMW Parts list put the last 7 digits of your Vin into the search box it will bring up your model, then search the relevant section. Dave