Greydog

Morning Cameron Welcome to the Forum A bit more information would help us make a guess at what is happening Which X1 model do you have Front wheel drive or X drive? What condition are the tyres and are they all the same make? When the bumby ride happens is it on the straight or in bends does it vary with speed? Does it happen under acceleration? Dave

Morning Paul Check the auction sites and internet for averages, Glass's Guide will give trade values The bottom line is it is worth what someone is willing to pay Dave

Morning Billy Welcome (almost) to the Forum Unfortunatley due to the low ride height on the M cars it isn't unusual for them to suffer front bumper/splitter damage. My next door neighbour has a 335i coupe which he loves and works hard to keep it pristine, he has had 3 incidents (2 of his own and 1 of his wifes) where parking nose in and there had been a raised kerb he has had 2 paint repairs and then made the decision to replace the bumper completely all unrecorded as he just loves his car. If your happy with the car and more important happy with the standard of repair/restoration the Selling Garage have done then why not buy it. Obviously you have to remember it is a 10 year old car so final inspection is your responsibility if still unhappy either negotiate a price that lets you get the work done to your own standards or walk away. I take it you have ensured all switches and toys are working as they should Good luck with the purchase hope you enjoy your Beemer Dave

Hi Ken Depending what OBD reader your using will either give Generic codes or if it is a fully BMW capable one then you should get better results (I use BMW ISTA/INPA) First I would check near the front fuse panel on the side behind the trim you should find a Multiple Earth point (BMW love these) check it carefully they were a well known source of problems on the E53 and E70. If you have a wiring diagram it may help idntify which pins to check continuity on. As far as I am aware the JBE with integrated PDC is just that it may mean a complete unit which will need coding to the chassis. Unless of course someone like ECU Testing (Derby I think) can fix it but that may put the car off the road for a few days Or as my daughter once told me "you don't need all that stuff Dad there is a Thud when your to close" 🤣 Dave

Hi Ben Without carrying out a full test on each TMS it is difficult to say. I would check the internet for any test criteria then start with the good one note the results then test the faulty one to compare. All I found on the TIS is it is likely to be the LED's (2 of them) how simple it is to change them I have no idea. As an Example I recently had a failed Halo/Parking lamp on my E70 checked ISTA says remove cover 3 screws remove 2 further screws and the lamp is out Ha Ha Ha. What i discovered in WIS was a note that says remove Headlamp from the car to access the screws. Dave

Morning Ken Welcome to the Forum Depending on exactly when your car was built the PDC location changed. According to ISTA cars built before late 2010 the PDC module is in the Boot below the fuse board. LCI models and 2011 on it seems it was integrated with the Junction Box Module which is below the fuse board under the Glove Box the smaller plug A4010a is the PDC connector Dave

Morning Ben The TMS units are probably coded Left or Right when you swap it you need to initialise the Headlamp unit using ISTA or another coding application if you have it I have never done it myself so just reading TIS and WIS from my copy of ISTA which is good up to 2019 when BMW decided to pull the plug Is there no help on You Tube normally quite a few Video How Too's there Hope this helps Dave

Hi Ben Back home again the code you have is pointing to the LED bulbs for the angle eyes are faulty. There are 2 in each headlight. Just replace them with new ones and make sure the semi transparent seals are there to avoid water ingress. Then initialize the headlights via ISTA and all should be good. Dave

Morning Ben You need someone with ISTA/INPA Diagnostics as that will also in WIS (Workshop Information System) and TIS (Technical Information System) I will look later but just back from the Horses and now off to Dog Training when home I will fire up the Garage Laptop and see what I can find Dave

Hi Alan I am sure you have thought of it but it's not just a case of bolting the DPF onto the car it will need recoding to make sure everything works as it should and you don't get silly error codes and messages. As an aside get the Glow plugs checked as the BMW system uses them to help achieve DPF Regen Temperature. I have known of a car (friend of one of our sons) having it's DPF removed/gutted because it kept clogging (short journeys) All the car actually needed was new Glowplugs and Glowplug controller Dave

Hi Philip Welcome to the Forum If I recall the Power Steering Fluid was originally a Febi part not sure if it was the Green one to protct seals etc Try taking a look at www.realoem.com Classic section or even ask your Dealer Parts dept they do some good deals on older models Dave

Morning Alan Welcome to the Forum Iwould think if the Dealer realises the DPF has been tampered with then they probably won't touch the car at all. Have you checked to see if your car still has it's EGR and Cooler I have read that they are often removed with the DPF work. When the EGR is replaced checked the Dealer will need to run diagnostics and I would think that will tell the tale. Also if the MOT station suspect a tampered DPF it is a fail. Be aware that if BMW replace the DPF it will be a costly excersize I would think in the region of £2k Dave

Hi Les Welcome to the Forum As this is a UK based site we may not have to many members near you A Diagnostc Scan may help to tell you more, or maybe an Automotive Electrician can advise You could check all the earth points BMW love mutiple earth points and earth switching Good Luck Dave

Morning Robert Welcome to the Forum The GO5 X6 as far as I am aware are all 6 cylinder Diesel or Petrol plus the Petrol V8 as far as I am aware the engine choices are The xDrive40i M Sport has a 3.0-litre, in-line six turbo-petrol engine with a maximum outputs of 280kW and 540Nm. The xDriveM60i has a 4.4-litre, eight-cylinder turbo-petrol engine with maximum outputs of 390kW and 750Nm. The xDrive30d has a 3.0-litre, six-cylinder turbo-diesel engine with maximum outputs of 219kW and 650Nm. The M Competition model has 4.4-litre, V8 turbo-petrol engine with maximum outputs of 460kW and 540Nm. If it is a traffic light racer you want then the V8 is hard to beat but obviously operating costs are higher than a 6 cylinder petrol or diesel Fuel,Tyres, Insurance and servicing I have 2 X5's a 4.6is V8 around 18mpg average but glorious noise and acceleration (High days and Holidays car now) and a daily driver 3.0d around 28 mpg around town high 30's on a run Hope this helps Dave

Morning Todd Welcome to the Forum First simple thing is actually change the fuses on my 4.6is the 30a compressor fuse was blown changed it for a (Halfords) 30a no go ? checked everything several times could find no fault swapped it with another 30a fuse everything worked still haven't figured out why? If the simple doesn't work then it is continuity testing on the 12v feed to find out why a look at a wiring diagram would help if you have access to one Good Luck Dave

Afternoon Frankolinno Welcome to the Forum I would start at the Boot/Trunk look above the number plate for a Key hole, you should have a key blade as part of the Fob Find the Key hole open the Boot/Trunk and you have access to the Battery. If charging the battery remove it from the car to charge it. There should also be an emergency key hole on the underside of the drivers door Good Luck Dave

Morning Alexander Welcome to the Forum Paul used Liquid Moly additive I beleive, do remember that if the seals are hardening through age this will work if the seals have gone it can't do much Dave

Morning Ben Welcome to the Forum Never actually seen this but from what I read it is normally the Halo LED's failing and needing replacement Dave

Morning Mike Welcome to the Forum Sadly we do live in times where extra protection is needed The good old Stop Lock is an excellent visual deterent. Whether the investment in a ghost immobiliser as well is worth the money no one can say untill it is needed. Personally the Stop Lock would be my choice (I use one when we are away from home) Dave

Morning Frank Welcome to the Forum Are you thinking of after market or BMW ? Also raises the question why ? If BMW then as long as it has the same functions and air bag connections I would think you could find one from other models. Try a search on www.realoem.com to see if there are any cross refference parts Dave

Morning John You do know your German car is built in South Carolina 😅 If nothing is loose in the Boot then I would still be looking for Loose Heat Shields or worn Suspension parts (Drop Link or Anti Roll Bar Bushes) Dave

Hi John Welcome to the Forum What are the roads like before you get on the Freeway? Could be a loose Heat shield, or suspension bush gone Dave

Hi Harry Welcome to the Forum Try looking at www.fusecheck.com/bmw/bmw-x1-f48-2016-2022-fuse-diagram That should give you what you need Dave

Morning Hay Welcome to the Forum Is it nagging you because the sibscription has expired ? Or possibly just a flat back up battery. A Diagnostic scan would confirm it Dave

Morning Radford Welcome to the Forum A diagnostic session is needed plus wiring checked for continuity to identify just what the issue is Dave