Greydog

Morning Luis Welcome to the Forum You can check by using a BMW Vin decoder website put in your Vin number and it will bring up the build sheet for your car. If the car is Bluetooth equipped you will find either SA633 or SA644 codes, if they are there then the car is Bluetooth equipped. Two things will stop it working (1) The Bluetooth memory is full 4 phones I think. (2) the Telematics unit in the Boot/Trunk left side is not working If your not seeing a Bluetooth function then it will be the Telematics unit and its antenna. First check the boot area left side if the telematic unit is there unplug it and get the part number from it then use Google to source a replacement If your car was not Bluetooth equipped check the left boot are for a connector taped up in the loom in that area if it is there you may just need the parts. Then if you want it to be OEM use www.realoem.com to get the part numbers and source the equipment, it should be pretty much plug and play. The alternative is an after market Bluetooth kit Dave

Morning Matija Part of the Comfort access system then 😁 If you try www.realoem.com and put in the cars Vin (last 7 digits) it will bring up your model then reach the sections for the correct part and part number, once you have the part double click the part number and you will get a list of any alternatives and models they were used on Great find Dave

Morning Matija Welcome to the Forum It may be part of the CAS (Comfort Access System) but I have never pulled an X1 to bits so it is a guess, It may also be part of the Alarm system or the Fuel Pump Control unit What symptoms are you getting ? or have you found it and wonder what it does ? Dave

Hi Seb Welcome to the Forum First make sure the engine is in Tip Top condition and well serviced (don't forget Transmission and Diff) if it is then you should have no issues. I would ask how many they have done and see if you can talk to other owners Most problems occur when ECU tuning is carried out on a mechanically sad engine and it then gets heavily used, result an engine failure with the tuning blamed. Most issues are heavy right foot is my experience Dave

Sounds a bit like our house Wife Daughter(at least she only visits now) 4 dogs (Female !!) Horses (2 Mares) I have lived my life in a cloud of PMT 😂 You will get used to it 🤣 Always remember it's quieter in the Garage and if someone comes into the garage swear and they clear off 🤣🤣 Always works for me Dave

Morning Kevin In the South East Main Dealer rates are in excess of £200+ p/h even my local Specialist is over £100, I think that is a great incentive to DIY Cars have always been my recreational release and like you I only help Friends and Family Dave

Morning Stu Going back over note's there were a stack of problems in the early E53's with Magneti Marelli starter motors being the culprit try the clamp meter on the starter cable. Also worth checking the Voltage regulator as they can give issues as well Also worth checking that the loom in your boot lid hasn't had a dodgy repair Dave She will misbehave until you get rid of the Porker 🤣

Morning James Google the Register of BMW Dismantlers (Quarry Motors have always been useful). For my E53 4.6is I used a local Carpet Fitter he made up a full set for me all edges trimmed and including non slip velcro patches. He used the OEM mats as patterns and off cuts from a Dark Grey High Quality Wilton carpet he had fitted, cost was less than half OEM gave the car a new smell for ages. Dave

Morning Yvonne Welcome to the Forum Built into the brake pad is a small carbon contact at the point where the Manufacturer of the pads believes they are close to the end of their service life. When it makes contact with the brake disc it triggers the light, which is a warning to change the pads, while your brakes still work in a short time uneven wear can occur which will cause damage to the disc. New pads are around 12mm thick as yours have been measured at 3mm there isn't much left see the chart. It isn't BMW or a Garage trying to squeeze money out of you The MOT I would guess shows the brake pad thickness as an "advisory" all that means they were working on the day of the Test? It doesn't mean they are OK or Safe just that they were OK then. The only things between us and a wall or ditch are Brakes and Tyres for me it is a false economy to ignore the warning, Pads are much cheaper than a new set of Discs and Pads an complete set of Brembo (Top make) pads for your car I would think is around £40 may be a little more plus fitting which should be around 2 hrs max if you can't DIY Dave

Morning Trishul What was it like ? Good turnout ? Dave

Morning Vin Welcome to the Forum As your system is CiC and modular you need a Diagnostic scan to provide us more information Dave

Morning Mike Welcome to the Forum The Post is 3 years old and I am not sure if the original poster even still has the car? As said you can check pressure at the Low Pressure side after 15/20mins running anything below 30 psi points to low /no Gas. Most systems loose a little every year particularly if the system is shut down during the winter months as many folks do, the seals dry out and leaks start it's better to use the Climate Control and leave it running. If your topping it up yourself make sure the kit has the correct compressor oil as low compressor oil levels can give issues. If the water control valves are OK and working, the Climate Control unit is functioning correctly, then I would use someone like Kwik Fit to service the AC the systems they use are automatic and pre-programmed it will vac out the system, providing the system holds the vacuum for a measured time (no leaks) it will introduce the correct oil and re-gas the system. I expect to get mine done every 3 to 5 years depending on the car and AC performance Dave Note your car should be Type R134A you can't mix gasses

Morning Steven Welcome to the Forum If you have the original pump and module I would send it to ECU Testing (Derby/Nottingham area) if it is repairable it won't need coding when it goes back on. Brake bleeding is a straight forward procedure I always start at the nearside rear (furthest from the master cylinder) I use a vacuum pump bleeding kit (mine is old but they are about £20 or so) to pull fluid through. Make sure the Master cylinder is above Min at all times, once clear no bubbles or murky fluid lock it off and move to the offside rear and repeat. Then nearside front and finally offside front make sure you are using the correct brake fluid and as said never let the master cylinder drop below the Min mark. Now the only tricky bit is you will need the help of someone who has a BMW capable Diagnostic tool if you don't have your own to activate the ABS unit, job done. If the original can't be repaired the next point to check is "the unit that is fitted is it the correct one for your car" is/was it New or purchased second hand? check the part number of both the Pump and Controller carefully if they are the same as the OEM part then it should have been plug and play. If the unit was (a) Second hand is it faulty? (b) If it is an incorrect part then you will struggle to get it to work. However if it does need coding then again you will need the help of someone who has a Diagnostic program that is capable of doing it Hope this Helps Dave

Hi Muriel Welcome to the Forum We have seen this here before, BMW say it is caused by condensation in the exhaust at initial start vapour is caused when the exhaust is hot no issue? One guy in Ireland spent a fortune trying to fix it check out the posts if you haven't already Hope this helps Dave

Morning Roger Looks like you need a Torx Socket possibly T10 difficult to say from the picture. Sets are not that expensive and freely available Just BMW expanding your tool kit 🤣 Dave

Morning Jay Welcome to the Forum I have read that Hybrids have very restricted towing capacity so my first thought is I doubt that it will fit. You really need to talk to a Specialist supplier or your Dealer (though the Dealer may not be much help if your planning DIY) From memory BMW OEM suppliers were/are Oris and Westfalia Good Luck Dave

Morning Jefferey Welcome to the Forum There are no lowering side steps that I am aware of for any of the X models Maybe one of the companies who adapt cars for the disabled may have something but I doubt it will be an easy fix Dave

Morning Aaron Welcome to the Forum You say you changed the bulb for the "Correct one" so you brought it from a BMW Dealer ? If not then it is possible that you have the correct type of bulb but if it is LED it may not have a ballast resistor fitted. If the bulb is correct then check carefully the wiring in particular the Earth Good Luck Dave

Hi Dave Welcome to the Forum Gear changes up or down should be really smooth the movement shown in your Video definately isn't right. It raises some issues for you as BMW don't repair anything just replace assemblies then retain the damaged item so few appear on the aftermarket If you aren't aware look at www.realoem.com put the last 7 digits of your Vin into the search box it will bring up your model. Then search the front axel assembly for the part number you need. If I recall the 8 speed transmission has 1-3.15 ratio diff but check that as I am an old bloke 🤣 Once you have the part number search onine for the best price a low milage Diff from a Dismantler may be the best cost option, I would expect a Dealer to be around £1k+ plus fitting if you can DIY then a refurbished Diff may be available I would guess £6-700 plus fluid would be my guess Most cases of Diff damage and Transfer case damage I have seen are the result of incorrect tyres or in one instance a single tyre replaced on the front (nearside new ofside around 5mm tread the difference was enough to cause damage. The E70 up to 2010 and F15 that followed were more robust in the transfer case than the E53 but the result is Diff issues Hope this helps Dave

I think the biggest problem today is everything being done at arms length email and internet BMW like many large organisations are losing contact with their customers and as said the Dealer tends to be the only "face" you see. Poor communication is not acceptable and just alienate all of us and assuming that because they have supplied a car it makes it OK they forget it wasn't/isn't what you paid for. Definatley time for a prod with a very sharp stick thereare several posts on here from owners with the same issue gather the evidence it can only strengthen your case. Good Luck Jan Dave

Morning Jan Welcome to the Forum Oh dear yet another one!! After that length of time I would be writing to the Dealer (I know he is Pig in the Middle but you have to begin somewhere) with a copy to BMW UK clearly stating the time line and using language from the Sale of Goods Act stating that as it has been so long without resolution and poor communication clearly the car is "not fit for purpose" and you want them to give a clear time line on either Replacement or a Full Re-fund I hope you can get it sorted Dave

We soooo love an optomist Stu 🤣 If the wire colours were different that is reall wierd Dave

I would double double check your crimping is there a stray wire strand thats touching something it shouldn't? According to my ex-neighbour (Now a High Up BMW man based the USA) it was late 2003 early 2004 before there were any changes in the X5 apparently the early pre facelift models were fitted with a full loom so any accessories were easy addons. After face lift you needed a loom extension and coding so what you have done really should have been straight forward (but aren't all the "simple little jobs") Dave

Hi Stu A clamp Ammeter on the live side of the battery will help then start pulling fuses in the boot as it is where the issue started. Shut yourself inside and when the car goes to sleep the ammeter should read just a few milli amps anything higher is the issue. Start pulling fuses in the rear fuse panel if one stops the draw you have the circuit that needs checking. If no joy repeat at the front fuse board Question, is the lock the original or is it one that came with the bits you replaced ? Dave

Morning Lewis The only way I can think of is to try the DVLA to see if you can contact the current owner Nostalgia for and old once owned car is great but remember the old adage "One careful owner, the other six didn't care at all" so rescueing it may cost more than it's worth Hope this helps Dave