Greydog

Good news Mark 😁 Simple fixes are the best Back to your other Forum it's nice to know you have a sense of Humour 🤣 Dave

Hi Mark It looks as though most of the underbody protection is missing and will need replacing those "Tubes" look like main power cables (battery is in the Boot) So first action is get those secured out of the way then get the undertrays replaced. I would assume that at service the under trays where not replaced correctly something has caught them and the Bang was them being torn off This pic may help it is a friends 4.0i X3 shows all under trays in place Dave

Now you have the Build Option code try using a BMW Vin Decoder web site put your Vin number in and it should pull up your cars original build sheet Dave

Hi Terry Welcome to the Forum As I understand it you either need an add on MMI box or a replacement Android Screen which would allow Carplay and Android Auto Good Luck Dave

Hi Simon You could check www.realoem.com put the last 7 digits of your Vin into the search box it will call up your model. Then check the Brakes section if alternate pads were offered Standard or Competition. A neighbour has a Toyota which made a grating sound Toyota Dealer found no issue and gave a similar response blaming the Pad material. She was really worried so I jacked up her car took off the wheel and found a small stone trapped between the Dust Shield and the Brake disc hooked it out with a long screw driver no more noise. I run Brembo pads and disc's on my E53 4.6is but standard disc's and pads on my E70 and both make no noise. So I agree as the car has covered only 9k disc's and pads are just run in, if there were a previous owner I wonder could they have specified Competition Pads ? With the Aero kit that is quite sloppy work by the body shop I hope it's not Bonded in place As you say depending on your Dealer you could have an uphill fight on your hands Good Luck Dave

Morning Simon Welcome to the Forum Let's start with a few questions You say a noise when carrying out slow manoeuvres, so is the noise when going lock to lock backwards and forwards. Or is it also noisy if just going forwards and backwards Are Disc's and Pads standard or have they been changed Are tyres correct any sign of odd wear or rubbing Nothing trapped behind the back plates (I would hope a Dealer would have checked that) Wheel bearings checked After driving any heat in the wheel centre's and brake area Those are the checks I would carry out myself Dave

Hi Firat The fact you get erratic drops in voltage which coincide with your description "feels like the car hits a wall" have you checked the pulleys tensioners and belts ? I have seen 2 instances (1) a frayed belt becoming tangled and snatching when the frayed part caught up (2) The crankshaft pulley rubber isolator breaking up caused a similar effect. The fact voltage drops to 12.5v when you get the effect would point towards the Alternator being stopped momentarily or longer, again check pulleys and belts and the engine earth straps If you have access to ISTA you should be able to see the Fault Memory for the Engine DME and the Transmission plus all other stored codes If codes were cleared when you registered the battery (was the Battery replaced or Fully charged) temporarily the car would see no Issues as soon as a fault or the critical fault re-occurred the erratic performance returned. Dave

Hi Chris You need to go online and search the Register of BMW Specialists there should be one close by The garage your using seem a little lost, the most common problem is Fuses as already said there are several dependent on model, to muddy the water a little more sometimes they are not blown just dirty so need checking carefully (I use a good contact cleaner and a new fuse) They are correct that low battery voltage can cause issues and 11v would indicate a discharged or dying battery, have you tried charging it ? If it won't take a charge then it needs replacing and registering to the chassis (not difficult and can be done after issues are fixed) At the front fuse box check fuses 63 Automatic Transmission Control 10 amp and 64 Gear Selector Switch 7.5 amp How do they know it wasn't the Gear Selector unit ? Did they check fuses? With a fully charged Battery I would carry out a Diagnostic scan note any codes then clear the fault memory and register the Battery correctly. Then check voltages at the charging points under the bonnet, Engine and Ignition off should be 12.5v minimum Engine running Voltage checked at the same place should be 14.6v. Now hopefully you will have a driving Beemer Hope this Helps Dave

Morning Chris Welcome to the Forum Oh dear I hope the garage is not a BMW Dealer or Specialist and are just an ill informed Independent. How did the car drive before the issue? If it was OK then you had the "stuck in park" problem First this is not an uncommon issue and is fairly well covered on the Internet Task 1. Check all the transmission linked fuses there are several from memory also check the relay. Task 2. If all fuses and relays are in good order get that Gearbox Control Module checked. A job better done by someone with BMW or ZF capable diagnostics. A full Diagnostic scan should tell you more, it would be embarrassing to spend a lot of money rebuilding/changing the transmission to discover it was a 20p fuse Good Luck Dave

Morning Alan Welcome to the Forum Not sure if this is the same issue as Lou reported on the Forum in 2024 ? Sadly he didn't close out the post so we don't know if his issue was sorted As your dealer has attempted a repair I would pressure them to make it good and permanent Good Luck Dave

Morning Michael Not good news and that has been going on for some time I would say so the seller wasn't truthful Check the Transmission for any sign of leaks especially around the Mechatronic Plug it may be worth carrying out a Service (Change fluid and Filters) see if that cures that issue. Your car was built in a time when BMW were saying Transmission was sealed for life !!! What they meant was sealed for the length of their Warranty responsibility (60k miles) ZF who manufacture your gearbox recommend service between 60k and 100k km dependent on use and climate Unfortunately if a service doesn't do it then the box will need a rebuild or changing, that wont be cheap either way I would expect a Specialist to charge around £2k + may be as much as £3k to fix it Good Luck Dave

Hi Michael Welcome to the Forum My guess is whoever you brought the car from has seen this and it scared him into selling (hope it was cheap) How does the car drive ? are changes smooth without the fault? Or is performance restricted (normally car stuck in 3rd gear) The problem could be seals in the mechatronic unit or with the Sleeve gasket where the EGS connects to the box. I would try the simple things first, service the transmission. A Fluid and Filter change and a new sleeve gasket (make sure the Fluid is correct for your box) "Tip" if you are going to service the box make sure you can remove the fill plug first seen a couple that were stuck because they drained the trans then couldn't get the fill plug out. If a fluid service cures it Happy Days if not then it could be an EGS problem or at worst a Trans rebuild Fingers Crossed it is the simple fix Dave

Morning Paul Welcome to the Forum If I am right your car has a Blower Motor with inbuilt resistors and a Blower Regulator plus a couple of Temp sensors If you aren't aware take a look at www.realoem.com put the last 7 digits of your Vin into the search box it will bring up your model then search the Heater/AC section. The small exploded drawing should show you where stuff is and where it fits. E series cars often had blower issues with Final Stage resistor failures though I have not seen one on a 7 series and cant say how easy or not they are to change Hope this helps Dave Good luck

Morning Stuart Welcome to the Forum and Seasons Greetings A quick look at www.realoem.com shows your battery should be 70ah AGM. I believe you will find a +Positive post covered with a Red plastic protector and Negative connection on the nearside inner wing for Charging connection, Ctec Chargers are all I have used for more than 20 years they are brilliant. If you have a Volt Meter or can borrow one test voltage at rest (engine off ignition off) at the charge points it should be 12.5v. Engine running voltage checked at the same place should indicate 14.5 +v for a healthy charge If you have access to diagnostics you can also check via the OBD port Enjoy your Beemer Dave

Hi Nichola Welcome to the Forum and Happy New Year As far as I recall there are two parts a narrow tray and the lifting section. Just a thought does your car have rear seat adjusters if they have been moved that could be your problem Hope that is the fix Dave

Morning Stephen Happy New Year As the Dealer has accepted responsibility and is offering a courtesy car while repairs are carried out you are in the hands of their Insurers not your own. So If their insurers say like for like your OK, if they say "a courtesy car" it will be pot luck. My own Dealership is using mainly EV Mini's at the moment. Good Luck Dave

Morning Andy Seasons Greetings and Welcome to the Forum A bit more information if you can, what are the symptoms exactly ? You have had a lot of work done and parts changed has the EMF control Module been checked/changed ? Has the EMF actuator been checked/changed ? I assume all suspension parts and wheel bearings have bee checked ? Tyres are they all the same make and wear rate ? Sorry about more questions than answers Happy New Year Dave

Morning Peter Most tyre places will write off the tyre if Goo has been used even if the puncture is in a repairable place and your quite right they hate the cleaning it needs That was one reason for me moving to the plug system simple to use and a permanent repair As said used it more on friends neighbours and family's only once on my current E70 X5 Good luck with the car ENJOY your Beemer Dave

Morning Ali Welcome and Seasons Greetings It could be a sticky or failing Hydraulic cam follower or a sticky Vanos solenoid. Clearly difficult to diagnose without being around the car If you use Cruise Control and feel a lurch when turning it off/disengaging it I would suspect the Vanos solenoids Dave

Morning Peter Seasons Greetings and Welcome to the Forum First point to make is as your car is X drive it is important that all 4 tyres are the same make and rolling radius. If the front and rear tyres or across axels vary by 5 or 6mm in diameter it will cause Transfer case wind up and possible problems. Make a chalk mark on the bottom of a rear tyre and same on the front on a flat surface roll the car forward 2 or 3 wheel revolutions both chalk marks should still be pointing in the same place. If they aren't driving any distances is a risk of Transfer case damage. That's the possible bad news out of the way 😁Changing to Non Run Flat tyres is going to allow a greater choice and price of tyre, the X5 with staggered rims has had no spare for years particularly if it was a 7 seat option. BMW supplied a small compressor and tyre Goo. I upgraded the Tyre Goo to a Plug Kit in around 2004/5. I have owned and run X5's since 2002 as one of my hobbies is shooting my X5's get properly Off Road where some ruts and holes may swallow anything smaller 😅 In all that time I have used the compressor and repair kit 3 or 4 times happy to tempt fate and say only once on my own tyre the other times friends and neighbours. With my own repair it was obvious just looking around the tyre a screw sting out was easy to see. Pull it out push in the plug kit and cut it off level with the tread connect the compressor and pump up the tyre, the repair worked until all 4 tyres were changed. I have recently changed the compressor for a combined Jack/Compressor that plugs into the cigarette lighter (make sure the engine is running) and make sure you have a good wheel wrench. Good Luck Dave

Morning Christopher Welcome to the Forum and Seasons Greetings Not sure where you are but if your in the UK you could talk to ECU Testing or Cartronix to see if they could help. I take it you have searched for a second user Speedo or Binnacle ? That gives 2 possibilities strip it to get the part you want or swap the lot, you may need a Diagnostic like BMW 1.4.0 to register a changed unit and correct mileages Dave

Morning Welcome to the Forum and Seasons Greetings I would guess that if your seeing 10v at the signal wire then either (a) the sensor is toast (b) there is a short in the wiring loom to test at the DME you will either need to trace the signal wire back or get your hands on a Pin Out for the DME. I have seen corroded pins at the DME but that normally shows as no signal I assume you have checked the Crank sensor ? What Diagnostic system are you using Dave

Morning Firat My thoughts are that the trans codes are communication errors triggered by low voltage and or Can Bus issues. How is the transmission running ? Is it sticking in gears ? Are changes jerky ? Any other trans issues leaks etc when was it serviced ? My actions would be to start with a Fully Charged Battery, clear down the codes check the battery voltage was still at full charge 12.5v minimum Then put a clamp ammeter on the main starter feed and start the car measure the amps drawn stop the engine and check battery voltage. As I have BMW ISTA/INPA (I also have iCarsoft BMW V2) I would then run a diagnostic and record all faults I suspect the Trans Faults are not all that are there. Remember a Fault Code very often is a symptom not the cause Good Luck Dave

Happy Christmas Firat Welcome to the Forum First thoughts a Starter or Alternator issue, here are my thoughts Battery Voltage at rest should be at least 12.5v (lower shows a drain or battery issue) with the engine running 14.6+v (lower would indicate slow or low charge from the Alternator) The fact the car isn't going to sleep (gear indicator still lit) There was an issue with Magneti Marelli starter around your vintage which caused huge Amp draw at start and eventually killed batteries (1) Fully Charge the battery at the charge points under the bonnet as said should read 12.5+v (2) Needs investigation could be a Can Bus issue (3) Check amperage at start with a clamp Ammeter I saw one that pulled 700+amps Last but not least get a full Diagnostic scan done using a BMW capable programme best is BMW ISTA/INPA then Foxwell, Autologic iCarsoft or similar. My reasoning here is I can't believe there are not hidden faults particularly as there is a possible can bus issue We know what you want for Christmas 😅 Have a good one Dave

Hi 90 k is not a lot of miles when was it last serviced ? Are there any leaks anywhere? So the vapour does it smell ? Sweet smell (could be anti freeze/coolant) has it needed topping up? Oil smell is obvious Next check and test and change if required the Oil Temp sensor I believe it's on the Filter body on your model. See if that stabilises the Gauge Dave