Hi David.....welcome to the Club I suppose if the garage were to keep all the original ancillaries (including injectors) and move them across to the new engine then nothing will need coding in after replacement. Let us know how this unfolds, good luck with it all Cheers,   Trevor

Hi, I am a newbie to the site so please excuse any breaches of etiquette. I have a 2012 BMW 640D Convertibe with a damaged engine after £88k miles (big end, crankshaft or piston failure suspected – it’s making a terrible noise). The car has been serviced religiously. Lucky me. I have purchased a new engine for the car from a breakers. Not cheap but only done 3,200 warrantied miles and has come with loads of extras, turbo, injectors, basically every ancillary engine part. After initially agreeing to the job my local garage is now unable to carry out the replacement because their diagnostics aren’t up to the job of talking to the car and completing the various coding tasks. So I am looking for recommendations please. The car is my pride and joy and I really want the job done right. Any help would be very much appreciated. I am located in Fife in Scotland. Thanks, Dave

Morning Lee and Welcome to the Forum You don't say if its E53 or E70 (2006 was change over year) it will have M57N (e53) or M57N2 (e70) engine and a 6 speed ZF box. Aside from the obvious visual checks and making sure of the service history check the MOT history online before you go it will also be a good indicator of the care it's received. Before starting the car open the bonnet and check the oil and fluids the engine should be cold, start up listen for any noises on starting it should fire up straight away and idle smoothly with no smoke. While it;s ticking over check everything works (and I mean everything) push every button test every switch these are complicated beasts and there are few cheap fixes. Then test drive, the engine should feel smooth and have plenty of power gear changes also should be smooth under all conditions ( ask if there is any evidence of gearbox service) on slowing to a stop there should be no clunks or lurches. Test all the switches and gadgets again while on the drive, when back leave it running and walk around check for any drips or leaks, the X5 has a transfer box that doesn't like mismatched tyres (BMW say approved  * rated tyres only) this particularly important with a staggered set up (wider rears) tyres should at least be from the same manufacturer. There have been cases of transfer box damage caused by mismatched tyres, they should at least be from a recognized manufacture budget tyres are a no no. BMW say gearboxes are sealed for life (BMW life is 3 years 60k warranty) ZF say service every 100 km. A gearbox service by a ZF agent will cost about the same as an engine service. Engines are as mostly as tough as old boots with few problems (a friend has 180k + and still going strong)  Suspension bushes live a hard life on any big fat 4x4 so will generally need attention at 80 to a 100k  If your handy with spanners most jobs are a DIY proposition and there is plenty of help/advice available here and online Good Luck with the purchase Dave

Hi everyone, looking to purchase a BMW X5 3litre diesel soon and was wondering if anyone had any advice and what to look out for. thanks in advance lee  

Looking for inner and outer rear arches for a 1990 BMW E30 convertible.