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Greydog last won the day on July 24

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    X5 4.6is Estoril Blue
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  1. Hi Spencer I did read about a failed or failing tyre pressure module causing issues like this A code read should confirm what the cause actually is Dave
  2. Morning Stu What happens if you lock using the key in the door lock ? I have read quite often about ignition switch issues mainly E46 and E39 but as our cars share so many parts it could well be the switch. When it wont start are there any other issues like no horn or radio controls not working? As your key operates the locking the actual barrel is reading/charging your key so it could well be just the switch on the back of the barrel which can be changed quite easily and (bonus) they are not expensive and you can change them without messing with the steering lock and barrel. Dave PS If you aren't aware there is an American site I use www.pelicanparts.com which has some brilliant how too's with pictures apart from the steering wheel being on the wrong side all the bits are the same. Just had a look and changing the switch looks a simple job.
  3. Morning Kenny I wonder if the numbers are Hella moulding assembly numbers possibly Try realoem but search manually select US model they do have different lighting laws or try a part number search using the numbers you have As for a price to sell them, I would check all the usual suspects ebay amazon etc, plus contact a few BMW specialist breakers see what they would sell them at Dave
  4. Hi Stu Just had a rummage on the Garage computer this may help Find your DME type and check the codes BMW Complete Diagnostic Fault Code List.docx
  5. Hi Stu Not sure if deleting the EWS will help, in fact may cause more probs than it has already Your DME code D1 (209) is an Immobiliser code 80 (128) I believe is transmission parity How up are you on using PA Soft? Using the BMW scanner go into the EWS and find the screen that shows live data. It will show green box coloured in next to the EWS security checks it goes through. Key, pass codes, DME code etc. Have a look and see what step in the security checks it fails. If it does fail. You can use PA Soft to re-sync the EWS and DME which may be the cause I would get a pad and paper handy Then open PA soft the first information screen will have IKE and LCM columns showing chassis mileage etc the next box is ZCS/FA Coding either write everything down or take a picture so you know what the original values are. Next go to the scan screen and open EWS and look for live data if you can run live data you may need a fully charged battery and a back up lets see what comes up Dave
  6. The answer to your first question yes the immobiliser needs signal from the Ignition Barrel and the Gear selector/inhibitor The release codes move each time the key is inserted in the lock somehow yours has become out of sync. Do you have the Sync sequence? if not try this You need to have all the keys with you that have the remote unlock function Get in the car and close the doors and windows. Put one key in the ignition turn it one click forward and then back. Remove the key from the ignition. Hold the unlock button while pressing the round lock button three times, then release the unlock button. The door locks should move to signal successful initialization. For the second key press and hold the unlock button while pressing the round lock button three times, and release the unlock button. Locks should move again. Repeat as needed for any additional keys. You have 30 seconds to do each key. Keep the car doors closed throughout the procedure. Only the first key gets put into the ignition...the other keys just need to go through the unlock-lock-lock-lock button press. Dave
  7. Morning Stu Never seen those DTC codes before Any codes on the EWS? Have you tried re=registering the Key ? Or if you have a spare key I have known where there is no cranking with the key it is because it isn't registered (how/why that happens who knows) happened twice with my 4.4 I even brought a new key, worked perfectly then one Sunday afternoon tried re=registering all the keys and ended up with 3 working keys?? Good Luck Dave
  8. Hi Duncan The Glow Plugs only preheat the combustion chamber for cold starting when the light goes out they are off. A dodgy glow plug or two should have an effect on the DPF Like any filter (thats what the DPF is) the DPF can clog like a catalyser oil is their worst enemy there are DPF cleaners on the market, one of my sons has a Toyota pick up truck he used some the cloud of Black Sooty smoke that blew out when he revved it up was something to behold, looked like a special effect from a Harry Potter film 🤣 It did work though. Even if the DPF is kaput a replacement I would guess at around £500/£700 so with your German car specialist fitting it would be less than £1k Fingers crossed it will be sorted soon and you can enjoy it again Dave
  9. Hi Sunji First ignore the warranty that it came with under the sale of goods act there isnt a time limit so you could go back to the trader list the issues and tell him it's not acceptable believe it or not if push comes to shove you could demand your money back. That would be a very last resort but it may give you room to negotiate a contribution from them. While the glow plugs (some or all six) being at fault can block the clearing of other issues if changing the glow plugs change the glow plug controller while your at it, finicky beasts these modern diesels from what you describe if the turbo vanes are moving freely the issue could be the wastegate actuators Good Luck hope you get it sorted they are awsome motors when on song Dave
  10. Hi Joe Welcome to the Forum Quite a few people have registered high oil level after the car has been standing as oils drains back to the sump I would run the engine for a few minutes let it stand fo 5 mins and check then (can't remember if yours is just electronic or do you still have a dip stick) As for the battery check www.realoem.com put the last 7 digits of your car in the search box it will bring up your model then search the sectiona for the Battery, my brother inlaw runs 5 series he is on his 4th one now, he changed the battery in one of his while on business in Poland the garage (not BMW) that did it told him if you change it like for like you don't have to register it. He had the car for a couple of years after that and never had an issue with it. There are several Diagnostic programs now that are BMW capable so yes a good Indy could code it if it needs it there is also a Register of BMW Specialists who are mostly BMW trained and have all the kit. Euro car parts normally have some good deals on and always have discount deals and codes going my battery is Yuasa from Halfords Regarding the DPF my brother inlaws cars 3 were 530d the current is 535d touring all his cars have covered 20/250k the current one is around 150k and he has never had a DPF issue EGR issues but never DPF. The death knell for the DPF is short journeys where the engine doesnt reach operating temperature for long enough to trigger regeneration. He trashes his around Europe so I guess that has helped. Dave
  11. Morning Duncan Welcome to the Forum First thing to do is find another Dealer the one your using sounds at best incompetent at worst !!!! maybe he thinks as your warranty is paying why not?? A BMW insured Warranty will be honoured by any Dealership and even BMW Independent Specialists. An Insured Warranty will be honoured by any Garage. For your information DPF regeneration is a constant and ongoing process that is managed by the DDE (engine computer) so there isn't a "mileage" trigger where regeneration has to be done. The regeneration cycle starts when the engine operating temperature is above 75 deg in normal driving about 15mins to 30mins. If the car is used for short journeys where it doesn't reach full operating temperature (there are other parameters which I wont bore you with) but engine temp is the main one (note The heater will blow warm are long before full engine temp is reached) Over a period of time soot will build up as it is not being burnt and clog the filter causing reduced performance. A Competent Garage with the right software can force a regeneration cycle with the car sitting still engine running, normally takes about 2hrs (your dealer want's £2-3k for that???? That sounds more like the cost still high of replacement??) Providing the rest of the engine systems are in good order EGR valves Glow Plugs etc the a good run of about 30mins to an hour once or twice a month should trigger a regeneration cycle if it is needed, and keep your motor healthy. As an example my Brother inlaw runs BMW 5 series Touring he has had 4 now the current one is a 535d he has business in the EU and travels a lot over there all his cars are driven to 200-250k before change the current one is over 150k and he has never had a DPF problem. We have cleaned EGR valves and glow plugs but little else. Do X5's last my 2003 E53 4.6is (yes the one with the dodgy V8) it pulls a horse trailer and is used off road in the shooting season and has covered 150+k (your E70 is the next evolution) is still going strong with good maintenance I expect it to see me out. Suspension bushes need changing/upgrading at 80 to 100k (it is a big heavy car) doing the job will improve the ride/drive and protect against odd tyre wear (another cost that can be minimised) So Google the Register of BMW Specialists find one near you and talk to them, normally their Hourly rates are around a 1/3rd of Dealerships plus they will have all the right kit and knowledge to help you with your E70 Long winded sorry Dave
  12. Morning Sunji Welcome to the Forum First was it a Private Sale or did you buy from a Dealer, it could be an expensive fix if it's a Dealer sale you will have some protection under the sale of goods act. If Private your pretty much on your own I am afraid. The car needs a proper diagnostic session to identify the issue or issues, you say you went to a specialist? A BMW one? The list of suspects is quite long, it could be Turbo Waste Gate actuators, Turbo Waste Gate, main engine Air Intake valves, or even a drive train problem. Diagnostics with a BMW capable reader will show all faults logged whether they are present or not, so a competent engineer will find even intermittent issues. Also remember a sensor issue can cause other components to shut down to protect themselves and the engine so a "Fault Code" may be a symptom not the cause. Good Luck Dave
  13. Hi Steve Welcome to the Forum To answer your questions first whenever working on suspension or Brakes it is Good Practice to change both sides at the same time. Calipers or rebuild kits are available though my preference would be replacement callipers plenty available Ebay, Motor Factors etc The job is straight forward, Clamp the flexy disconnect brake pipe from the calliper, unbolt calliper bolt in new one reconnect the brake pipe unclamp the flexy and bleed making sure the system is topped up. Change sides and repeat. Check www.realoem.com for part numbers for your car so you know stuff will fit Dave
  14. Hi Lauren Yes you will need the interface and cable to connect to your car I brought the Disc and Interface with cable as a complete set quite a few years back but they are still available online. Google, Amazon Ebay normally from Taiwan (mine was) prices vary from £10 to £25 (the dearer ones often have postage included) Simple to load from the disc, then plug the interface into the usb port (doesn't need to be connected to the car) and load the drivers all the instructions are there. Then plug it into the OBD port and off you go. I have even tried mine with a bluetooth adapter but the older tech in the car wouldn't play ball When connected the program will first identify your car if all correct press continue and the scan page will show, just hit scan and it will check every control unit in the car (up to 3 pages) and show the number of faults, double click the fault and the explanation of what is causing the issue will show. My last scan showed a PDC fault when interrogated the explanation was Rear Centre Right sensor failed. Dave
  15. Morning Brad First for a Private Hire vehicle 77k in 5 years seems low to me, not much above average. I would check its MOT history the mileage should be registered. Then it is History History History and making sure everything works as it should plus all the tyres are in good order. Remember it has been someone's livelihood so hopefully it has been kept in tip top order. A NI plate shouldn't have a detrimental effect on price but Private Hire may well As with any second user car purchase all we can do is take as much care as possible before parting with our hard earned Good Luck Dave
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