Greydog

Hi Gary I did the exact job for a friend of my wife, I did a search of www.realoem.com for the correct part numbers left/right then she searched Google and brought both spindle drives for £110 delivered with 2 year warranty. Changing them requires trim removal so a decent set of trim removal tools and a Torx set will be needed. I did use a garden rake with a towel wrapped around it to support the tail gate as neither of the girls could reach 😅. The rest is straight forward, though getting all the trim out of the way is fiddly the job is plug and play. Couple of good Videos on line About 21/2 hrs work with Tea and biscuits 🤣 Dave

Morning JC Look like you brought a scanner that just does TPMS systems ?? I have 2 Diagnostic scan tools (1) BMW INPA/ISTA which is the same as BMW Dealers use and (2) iCarsoft both systems will give me a code that indicates which wheel sensor is at fault or if it is the Controller. Plus of course they also read all other control units on the car. With your monitor what does the Instruction book say? does it give a list of codes and their meaning? TP sensors do fail some have batteries in them they are not expensive to buy online (Ebay, Amazon etc) the costly bit is to fit them, obviously tyres need to come off and be refitted. If it was me I would wait until tyre change time Dave

Morning Jim A Seat owned by a neighbours wife from new but only used for school run duties was completely clogged at lower miles than yours. Predictably the Dealer said new Turbo new EGR and a swathe of other parts £££, a local Diesel specialist stripped, cleaned and rebuilt everything and gave her the advice to give the car a good run at motorway speeds once a month. Years ago my son had issues with his Toyota pickup the dealer mechanic told him an "Italian Tune Up" (engine up to temp and keep revs over 2.5k for half an hour) needs doing every few weeks. As a Tree Surgeon he tended to be trundling around off road at slow speeds and low revs. With luck it's just the actuator mechanism Dave

Hi Darren Think about how much you have saved at Main Dealer hourly rates 😁 Plus the satisfaction of a job well done Modern cars not designed to be DIY friendly 😅 the cynic in me thinks it is a ploy to drive us towards the dealer network. They will probably tell us they would never do that, yeah right 🤣 Well done Dave

Morning Jamie Welcome to the Forum I would think you need a feed from the Boost relief valve. Are there no instruction with your kit ? Take a look at www.realoem.com put the last 7 digits of your Vin into the search box it will call up your model then check the engine section/inlet/turbo Dave

Morning JIm If memory serves your car has twin turbo's a small one for low/mid range and the bigger one below for mid/top end boost. The vacuum drive shifts boost to the larger turbo, so when you felt for any wobble which turbo were you feeling? and which side remember the exhaust side really does take a battering. From your description the Vacuum drive is working but the flap it operates into the large turbo or the turbo it's self needs some investigating Those are my thoughts Dave

Morning Ronald Welcome to the Forum First it would be unlikely the a Starter would cause this fault code as the starter is underneath and the issue you have is at the top. A fault code indicates a problem it isn't necessarily the cause, start by looking for leaks in any of the Vacuum lines and hoses on the Inlet side after 13 years the hoses on your car will quite probably be dry and cracked in places. Also check all wiring and plugs if cleaning use a good electrical contact cleaner. The replacement you brought, is it correct for your model ? As an after thought check the engine mounts I am not sure whether your mounts have a vacuum link Dave

I would think after 2 years if they haven't sold they have binned it 😁 Dave

Hi Tino Just re-checked and you are correct 3 - Ethernet RX+ Confirmed 9 - TD (Tachometer Display) Signal / Engine RPM Signal Confirmed 11 - Ethernet RX- Confirmed 12 - Ethernet TX+ Confirmed 13 - Ethernet TX- Confirmed I think your assumption on the ZF trans could well be right also if the resistor is toast it could well screw up the Diagnostics Keep digging Dave

Morning Tino I don't think they use a different Can protocol as Dealers still need to communicate with BMW from time to time and we know how the German mind like s to be in control 🤣 The Can protocol should be D can. Wiring Diagram shows 2.0i 2007 on as Pins 3, 4, 5, 6, 8, 9, 11, 12, 13, 14, 16 all populated colours as follows 3, Red 4, Brown 5, Brown/black trace 6, White/Yellow trace (D can H) 8, Blue/Yellow trace 9, Black 11, Blue/Red trace 12, Green 13, Red/Green trace 14, White/Blue trace (D can L) 16, Red/Yellow trace My wiring diagrams for the 2.8i are exactly the same. Pre 2007 (2004 up to 2007) It shows Pins 1, 4, 5, 6, 7, 9, 14, 16 populated Wire colours are 1, Green/Brown trace 4, Brown 5, Brown/Black trace 6, White/Yellow trace (D can H) 7, White/Violet trace 9, Black 14, White/Blue trace (D can L) 16, Red/Yellow trace Just found another Diagram marked 2007 only shows pins 1, 4, 5, 7, 9, 16, colours are 1, Green/Brown trace 4, Brown 5, Brown/Black trace 7, White/Violet trace 9, Black 16, Red/Yellow trace (not sure if this helps or hinders) Again as far as I am aware Left and Right hand cars are the same If it is JBE issues they are easy to swap but will need a Diagnostic scan capable of registering the replacement (I have INPA/ISTA) BMW make a big deal of it (can only be done by them) but as always it can be done I have changed a few Footwell modules and Junction boxes Good Luck Dave

Morning Darren Welcome to the Forum Best case check the Rocker cover Vent pipe easy to replace Worst case Cylinder Head Cover gasket needs replacing Take a look at www.realoem.com put the last 7 digits of your Vin into the Search box it will bring up your Model Then in Engine look the Cylinder head cover. Use the part numbers to make sure you get the correct parts The job is a DIY proposition but there is a huge amount of trim and engine bay bracing to take off before you get near the nitty gritty 😅 Top tip take pictures so you make sure it all goes back where it's meant to. Tools needed a good socket set (3/8 and 1/4 drive) trim clip removal set and buckets of patience 😁 I believe there are a couple of good videos on You tube that should help Good Luck Dave

Morning Tino You really do like a challenge buddie 😅 First I remember reading somewhere that the Japan cars didn't take Bluetooth OBD readers don't know for sure as I have never worked on one. My wiring diagram doesn't show anything specific for Japan ? 1st pic above my wiring diagram shows Pin 16 red/yellow trace Pin 6 white/yellow trace (D can H) Pin 14 white/blue trace (D can L) Pin 4 brown Pin 5 brown/black trace Pin 3 Red Pin 11 blue/red trace Pin 8 Blue/yellow trace Pin 12 Green Pin 13 Orange/green trace Pin 9 Black I am thinking Pin 3 Live pin 16 shows a 5amp fuse The diagrams I have 2007/2009 and 2009 on both seem to be the same Hope this makes sense Dave

Hi Mark Welcome to the Forum Check www.realoem.com It is an online BMW parts list either search by Model/year or put the last 7 digits of your Vin into the search box. Then search the relevant sections I would think either Body or Trim sections if its listed it should have one Good Luck Dave

Frank Changing to springs is a simple mechanical swap take out the air spring bolt in the conventional spring you will need spring compressors to get the steel springs safely in place. However coding out the sensors and compressor control software to stop all the messages on your dash still needs doing unless your happy to drive around in a car with faults showing. A spring kit should cost around £200. Then all you need to do is as said find someone to code out the other stuff if you have someone to do that they could do a full ride height scan and tell you exactly what is wrong I have a feeling that would be simpler and cheaper??? If the Module you ordered was wrong what did you order ? If you contact Bimmerparts they will probably change it for you or give a refund. Did you check www.realoem.com to get the correct Part number before buying ? Have you had a scan Done? Dave

Morning Brian Welcome to the Forum First the engine difference 430d should give 250+hp and 400+ft/ibs torque 0-60 around 5.5secs the 435d should be around 300+hp 450+ft/lbs of torque 0-60 under 5 secs. I would think both cars will give high 30's around town and high 40's even 50's on a run (right foot influenced) Both engines are based on the BMW's 3ltr straight six Diesel turbo configuration makes the difference both cars will have a ZF 8 speed box, the 430d RWD the 435d AWD That's the oily bits the rest is is personal choice don't assume that they will all be the same inside make sure that the cars have everything that you want and that it all works as it should. When you find a car with the colour interior and engine specs you like then just like any used purchase History History History Hope we rescue you from the Dark Side 🤣 Dave