Kevmond

Evening all, So after a bit of surgery on my Achilles, I decided to get wheels refurbed whilst I couldn’t drive. Decided to get them done in gloss black and diamond cut. Had new boots fitted to match the rear Michelin PS4’s and new TPMS with black valves. Tyres replaced the Bridgestone Turanza S001’s that were worn on the shoulders and seemed to give the car erratic steering feel. Also treated it to new self levelling centre caps & a MOP. 7.5 hrs to wash the exterior. Washed, clay barred, polished with BH cleanser polish, then with Poorboys black hole and a wax coat of Dodo juice purple haze. Only got a couple of pics that I thought I’d share. Hoping to get it 4 wheel aligned again at the weekend. Refurbed wheel prior to new boots.

Hi all, As title suggests, I’ve got wear on both inner and outer edges of my front tyres on my 430d. More so on extreme inner edge. Middle of tyres have best part of 5mm left. I only noticed it as I removed the wheels in preparation to be refurbished. Alignment wasn’t too far out and has been adjusted. I usually run tyre pressures at 36psi, as stated in door shut. Other forums have suggested running 40PSI at the front, which apparently improves handling. I currently have BF Goodrich’s fitted. What brands, pressure and wear do others have on theirs? Happy Easter all!!

I did mean to say VW, yes. although they usually sound more rattly than the video you've taken. You'll need to at least open the bonnet and listen with a stethascope, screwdriver or vac hose to identify the location of the noise. I would assume tappets to give more of a "Clack" type sound and not go away with a few rpms (Unless oil pressure is too low at idle)

You’ll need to at least pop open the bonnet and drop the FEAD belt off. Perhaps is an auxiliary component. VW uses a one way clutch in alternator which can sound horrendous when they’re knackered. the fact the noise goes with a rev would suggest it’s not a base engine problem IMO.

17k miles on the rears isn’t too shabby IMO. Especially considering both toe and camber were slightly out of spec.

So, I opted for Michelin PS4’s for the rear. I had them on a Puma ST and they were great! Current Bridgestone turanza S001 on the front can wash out a little when cold/wet, hence my reasoning for not getting the same for the rear. I swapped rear tyres side to side last week and found a small patch of tyre missing due to delamination (probably due to playing on wet roundabouts 🤫😉) That’ll explain the slight vibration at speed! Also getting the wheel alignment done later to. Hoping it’ll be a noticeable difference!

Hi all, I hope you all had a nice Xmas break!? My 430d GC will require new rear tyres in the near future. They’re approx 3mm, hoping February doesn’t bring snow!! I’ve achieved 18k miles from my Pirelli P Zeros, which I’m fairly happy with, especially as I have moments of “spirited driving” So, any advice on replacement tyres? I have Bridgestones on the front, not sure if they’re for sporty or touring. Was airing to similar on the rear but can be swayed by other’s recommendations. Any advice gratefully received. Thanks.

Thanks for reply. It’s similar to what I’ve read elsewhere then. I parked the car facing a wall, not sure if it’s just me, but there’s a slight kick in the beam pattern towards the nearside. Think I’ll chance it. Many other people claim they don’t bother with any beam deflectors.

Good evening all, looking at going to Belgium next week for a night away. Cant see anything in handbook (online or in I drive) regarding driving on the continent that is relevant. It mentions turning off Auto setting and adjust setting in Idrive “settings - lighting - headlights - headlight adaptation” however mine doesn’t have this option to select/change, not does it have adaptive LED lights, just LED’s. Had a look on the rear of the lamps, nothing obvious to swap over (have seen a lever on other models) Any ideas please? Worst case I’ll sling some beam deflectors on.

Thanks. Dread to think what the cost would have been! I’d estimate at least 1.5hrs labour if tank was required to be lowered, no idea what Stealerships hourly rate is. It only took me as long as it did as I was doing on my drive a week after surgery. Worst part was undoing the T60 bolt on rear brace (caused pain in site of surgery) Used to be £65 P/H at a main agent Ford stealership where I worked some 22yrs ago, no idea what current labour rates are as I do (selective) work myself on occasions. No longer do private work, only immediate family cars (Wife/Son/Daughter’s mk8 Fiesta/Toyota GT86/2015 Mini)

So, Bracket arrived from eBay, nothing but the best Chineseum stainless steel. Jacked car up as high as possible and placed an axle stand under the rear jacking point. 6x T45 bolts removed from x brace pictured, and a T60 on the O/S to allow the brace room to drop when lowering exhaust. Rear exhaust supported with trolley jack, mounts undone with a 13mm nut either side of rear silencer and lowered. 4x metal heat shield nuts removed, 4x plastic heat shield nuts removed from felt section of under shielding. Jiggle metal heat shield about a bit and slide towards the rear to remove. Broken lugs from handbrake bracket fell out when heat shield was undone. Fairly conclusive diagnosis! Handbrake cable can be pulled down enough to allow ring end of spanner to undo retaining nut. New bracket straddles old bracket and secures cables very well. Refit everything that was removed, not forgetting that metal heat shield goes underneath felt section. Apologies for pics not being in order, some didn’t want to upload at all. EBay item was in fact £6.79!!

Greydog, Officially the fuel tank needs dropping to replace this bracket as there are locating lugs between the cable bracket (correctly identified as No12 in diagram) and a few fixtures around it. Ive ordered an aluminium replacement for a similar price of £10 to the originals replacement. There is a lovely billet item available for £120, which can be fitted without the need to drop the fuel tank. Although I cannot warrant that cost to myself. Cable ties can be used as a temporary repair, however the exhaust needs lowering in order to remove a heat shield to gain access. I wish I’d “borrowed” some stainless cable ties from work. IMO, if I’m going to that length to make a repair, I may as well go for a permanent fix. Against my wife’s wishes, I’ll no doubt be climbing underneath sometime next week to fix it. I had surgery on my collarbone on Monday due to a mal union following an accident a couple of yrs back. I’ll report back once I’m done, maybe with some pics and a brief guide to assist others. Apparently it’s quite common on F series BM’s.

Morning all, So my car started making a scraping sound under the centre console when accelerating hard, Ive found on another forum a video with the exact sound I’m experiencing. Turns out it’s due to the handbrake cable clips above the fuel tank breaking and the hand brake cables rub on the prop shaft. Has anyone got any experience with renewing these? Apparently the tank needs to be dropped. People have said that cable ties work well as a cheap alternative. I’d normally climb underneath, play and report my findings, but I’m recovering from an operation at the moment so cannot get underneath for a few weeks. 😕

Good morning all, So, having had my car for a little over 6 months I decided to give the transmission an overdue service. Parts obtained from Autodoc for £205 for ZF service kit, a fill plug & mechatronic sleeve (Just in case) Job wasn't that bad to do. I even found the source of an intermittant rattle from un undershield. Once done I cleared the adaptions & drove up the road, instantly the shifts were noticeably smoother, not that they were too bad before, just slightly less refined. ZF recommend it to be done at 60K I believe, my car has covered 79K miles. I might do just a fluid flush at 100K miles, we'll see...

So, Chris kindly did CarPlay activation for me late on Friday evening (19:00!) while I waited. Didn’t work initially, he said it can sometimes need to be turned off and locked for a while. Next time I drive reboots it pulls in coding. Got home, had a beer and then returned outside after another beer or two & retried. CarPlay working as expected. Only thing that doesn’t work is screen mirroring. According to many online, IPhone doesn’t support this feature sadly, only android. Must say, although BMW maps are upto date, the nav is a bit woeful (took me down a dead end) it’s nice to have Google maps and/or waze.