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I’m just gonna put them up for sale at a reasonable amount from what I can see online lol I have another issue, yes another one lol. Removed the retro fitted fronts today and replaced them oem ones. All work fine apart from the passenger halos. Non of the 2 work. I traced the wire back a touch and found the green/grey(white) wire was broken. I attempted a crude repair just to get them working as it’s late and I’m working in the morning. I couldn’t get the halos to work at all. Keep getting the front left parking light failure warning message. Any ideas where to start? I only took a new piece of wire and wrapped the cores around each other to try get it to work. Will they need proper soldering to get them to work? The inside core of the wire isn’t brass coloured anymore

Hi Spencer I did read about a failed or failing tyre pressure module causing issues like this A code read should confirm what the cause actually is Dave

I have a 2011 X3 with 165000 on the clock. Every so often I get warning lights saying : tyre pressure monitoring failure handbrake failure brake failure they all come on at once but make no difference to the ride of the car. I cancel the lights and drive on as if nothing had happened and no lights had come on ie the brakes are fine, the handbrake hasn’t failed. Ive owned this car for 2 years and it happens every couple of weeks or so. Ive taken it to different mechanics to try to get to the bottom of it but no one seems to know what it is. Anyone have the same problem ?

Morning Stu What happens if you lock using the key in the door lock ? I have read quite often about ignition switch issues mainly E46 and E39 but as our cars share so many parts it could well be the switch. When it wont start are there any other issues like no horn or radio controls not working? As your key operates the locking the actual barrel is reading/charging your key so it could well be just the switch on the back of the barrel which can be changed quite easily and (bonus) they are not expensive and you can change them without messing with the steering lock and barrel. Dave PS If you aren't aware there is an American site I use www.pelicanparts.com which has some brilliant how too's with pictures apart from the steering wheel being on the wrong side all the bits are the same. Just had a look and changing the switch looks a simple job.

Morning Kenny I wonder if the numbers are Hella moulding assembly numbers possibly Try realoem but search manually select US model they do have different lighting laws or try a part number search using the numbers you have As for a price to sell them, I would check all the usual suspects ebay amazon etc, plus contact a few BMW specialist breakers see what they would sell them at Dave

Hey Dave. so I’ve changed the rear to standard units and the warning have gone now. I have taken the smoked rears off and the are genuine hella ones but I can’t find any info on any of the codes on the light. ive found ; 164 298 housing 164 300 lens 164 312 reflex reflector lens 164 314 reflex reflector smr 164 302 additional reflector 164 308 bezel 164 306 bezel any ideas? Just looking to get an idea on price to sell them at really. They are deffo LCI ones tho and the bulb holder comes from LCI type.

Hi Dave, yet again, your resources are second to none. 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻 I have already synced both the dme and ews, also the ews and ilk units, still the same. on the ews live data, the top 3 (security coding) keep changing from green to red and back. And then go blank on the data boxes. the car seems to immobilise itself once I have locked the doors. If I don’t lock it, it starts no issues. the key has been coded to the central locking, all ok. could it be the reader around the barrel? I think I’ll order a spare key and see what happens, at least it will tell me if the battery is going on the key here.

Hi Stu Just had a rummage on the Garage computer this may help Find your DME type and check the codes BMW Complete Diagnostic Fault Code List.docx

Hi Stu Not sure if deleting the EWS will help, in fact may cause more probs than it has already Your DME code D1 (209) is an Immobiliser code 80 (128) I believe is transmission parity How up are you on using PA Soft? Using the BMW scanner go into the EWS and find the screen that shows live data. It will show green box coloured in next to the EWS security checks it goes through. Key, pass codes, DME code etc. Have a look and see what step in the security checks it fails. If it does fail. You can use PA Soft to re-sync the EWS and DME which may be the cause I would get a pad and paper handy Then open PA soft the first information screen will have IKE and LCM columns showing chassis mileage etc the next box is ZCS/FA Coding either write everything down or take a picture so you know what the original values are. Next go to the scan screen and open EWS and look for live data if you can run live data you may need a fully charged battery and a back up lets see what comes up Dave

Dme code D1 (209), 80 (128) ews Code 11(17), 13(19) anyone know if I can delete the ews using pa soft? Ews3 unit

Hi Dave, I only have 1 key which is key 1. I have synced ews to some and reprogrammed the key. I start the car, no issues, remove the key and lock the door, unlock and key doesn’t work, try and try again, then the car starts. check pasoft and it shows the errors. Clear codes and all good until I lock the car. It’s as if the rolling code isn’t being recognised.

The answer to your first question yes the immobiliser needs signal from the Ignition Barrel and the Gear selector/inhibitor The release codes move each time the key is inserted in the lock somehow yours has become out of sync. Do you have the Sync sequence? if not try this You need to have all the keys with you that have the remote unlock function Get in the car and close the doors and windows. Put one key in the ignition turn it one click forward and then back. Remove the key from the ignition. Hold the unlock button while pressing the round lock button three times, then release the unlock button. The door locks should move to signal successful initialization. For the second key press and hold the unlock button while pressing the round lock button three times, and release the unlock button. Locks should move again. Repeat as needed for any additional keys. You have 30 seconds to do each key. Keep the car doors closed throughout the procedure. Only the first key gets put into the ignition...the other keys just need to go through the unlock-lock-lock-lock button press. Dave

Morning Stu Never seen those DTC codes before Any codes on the EWS? Have you tried re=registering the Key ? Or if you have a spare key I have known where there is no cranking with the key it is because it isn't registered (how/why that happens who knows) happened twice with my 4.4 I even brought a new key, worked perfectly then one Sunday afternoon tried re=registering all the keys and ended up with 3 working keys?? Good Luck Dave

…. Quick mind !Removed!…. stopped and started numerous times… all ok, removed the key and locked/ unlocked the car…. No start… checked the codes and dtc 11(17) wrong password, key 1 is up… 3 cranks later and starts… I think I’m getting somewhere slowly

Morning Dave, the starter seems fine. just replaced the battery and scanned everything, stopped and started… nothing, turned key back to position 2, tried again, nothing… tried again… fired straight up. No cranking beforehand.

Could the cause be this error, relating to the key? Does the immobiliser work off the key sensor on the barrel?

Picked up the car this evening - so good to be back in it. The item in question was a glow plug control module (replaced under insured warranty); other items repaired/replaced were the actuator for the electronic parking brake, and also for the ride height. Hopefully that'll do until the MOT!

Hi TCon, I am not averse to getting the dpf emptied out and coded out, would have to be a good, nay, impossible to visually see job though. I've got an Elgrand which has 4 cats, 2 of which have been decored and no one would be any the wiser without an endoscope and a lot of time to navigate up through the rear and middle box. Might even be able to get the fronts decored too, as it runs LPG. Sorry to digress a little😁

Hi Joe, If the car has being stood still for a long time you should change the oil anyway. Oil becomes acidic after a period of time thats why you are usually advised to change it at a set time or interval. 6k to me is a little more than i do when i change mine. i go for about 5k then change it but i do it myself so no labour costs. I would agree with Greydog about the oil levels, run it and let it sit for five mins then recheck it. Regarding your battery, id say its had its day. If it was 33% in 2016 and now its been standing for a bit, id say its toast. Once again follow Greydogs advice about finding the correct battery but rather than going to a stealership, shop around. There are far better prices around. Fitting one is mechanically easy to do but just a heavy lump to move. Getting it coded to the car is straight forward enough so anyone with any half decent OBD reader could probably do it for you but im sure if you look in the wanted ads you'll find someone who can far cheaper than at the stealership. Im sure you can reduce that quoted cost down. Also check You Tube, you'll be surprised how easy it actually is. Ive had an issue with me EGR due to a sticking roller bearing inside the EGR mechanicals. A good clean and a regrease sorted it but it lead me to seeing the carbon build up in the inlet manifold, which was bad. I removed and cleaned the manifold but more importantly I recently had the EGR blanked, the DPF removed and the error codes programmed out. Been a month now and no complaints. Also purrs nicer now too. Might be worth a thought.

Thanks Dave - I'll know more when I've collected the car, later today - very keen to get it back, that's for sure... I talked to a specialist today as you suggested, and they confirmed what you told me about the fictitious mileage threshold...they'll have the car for its MOT in October, and we'll see where we are. Thanks again! Duncan

Hi Duncan The Glow Plugs only preheat the combustion chamber for cold starting when the light goes out they are off. A dodgy glow plug or two should have an effect on the DPF Like any filter (thats what the DPF is) the DPF can clog like a catalyser oil is their worst enemy there are DPF cleaners on the market, one of my sons has a Toyota pick up truck he used some the cloud of Black Sooty smoke that blew out when he revved it up was something to behold, looked like a special effect from a Harry Potter film 🤣 It did work though. Even if the DPF is kaput a replacement I would guess at around £500/£700 so with your German car specialist fitting it would be less than £1k Fingers crossed it will be sorted soon and you can enjoy it again Dave

I'm sadly familiar with the dpf not liking short journeys after owning two Volvo d5s, which still didn't like it even with a fortnightly 1 hour each way motorway schlep. I'm hoping the 5 series manages things better - given the journeys this 5 has done in its life, a lot of time it was reasonably shirt, but had good runs every month or two. I've read lots about the battery coding, with some saying needs to be coded as the charging cycle/rate will be different between a new and old battery and the car won't know otherwise, even if it is like for like. Closest I've found so far is 80ah, but 850cca. I'll check out the realoem site, thank you.

Hi Sunji First ignore the warranty that it came with under the sale of goods act there isnt a time limit so you could go back to the trader list the issues and tell him it's not acceptable believe it or not if push comes to shove you could demand your money back. That would be a very last resort but it may give you room to negotiate a contribution from them. While the glow plugs (some or all six) being at fault can block the clearing of other issues if changing the glow plugs change the glow plug controller while your at it, finicky beasts these modern diesels from what you describe if the turbo vanes are moving freely the issue could be the wastegate actuators Good Luck hope you get it sorted they are awsome motors when on song Dave

Hi Joe Welcome to the Forum Quite a few people have registered high oil level after the car has been standing as oils drains back to the sump I would run the engine for a few minutes let it stand fo 5 mins and check then (can't remember if yours is just electronic or do you still have a dip stick) As for the battery check www.realoem.com put the last 7 digits of your car in the search box it will bring up your model then search the sectiona for the Battery, my brother inlaw runs 5 series he is on his 4th one now, he changed the battery in one of his while on business in Poland the garage (not BMW) that did it told him if you change it like for like you don't have to register it. He had the car for a couple of years after that and never had an issue with it. There are several Diagnostic programs now that are BMW capable so yes a good Indy could code it if it needs it there is also a Register of BMW Specialists who are mostly BMW trained and have all the kit. Euro car parts normally have some good deals on and always have discount deals and codes going my battery is Yuasa from Halfords Regarding the DPF my brother inlaws cars 3 were 530d the current is 535d touring all his cars have covered 20/250k the current one is around 150k and he has never had a DPF issue EGR issues but never DPF. The death knell for the DPF is short journeys where the engine doesnt reach operating temperature for long enough to trigger regeneration. He trashes his around Europe so I guess that has helped. Dave

Recently for a new to me e60, and have a few niggles. Which is mildly disappointing as I assumed, given it was owned from New by the same person, who I knew to not skimp on servicing -everything mean dealer, on the button, last service late 2019 with a specialist Indy. Oil service shows up as due....given the car has largely been stood since lockdown, entirely necessary? Last done August 2019 ,6k ago. I'm guessing probably a good idea to still get it done? Also, I see from the check messages it's now reporting oil level too high...could this be as I was on a reverse slope, or do I urgently need to get the oil changed and back to 'acceptable' levels? (Brake fluid and inspection due October 2021, rest have got 27k to go on service computer.) Secondly, increased battery discharge whilst stationary message. This was on when ingot the vehicle, I'm assuming due to its long period of not really being used - it was sorned last July, has only been turned over weekly for ten fifteen minutes since. Warning light expired on the trip back from collection, but popped up again this morning. Leading through the service history, I see a note saying battery at 33% back in 2016. Still original battery. Replacement probably a good idea. However BMW are quoting me 220 for the battery and 40 for coding it in. I know dealerships are usually a but more, but a standard lead acid battery,80ah, 800cca is NOT 220. It's not an AGM bateryy as it's not a stop start car, it just has a start engine button. I know it's not AGM as the stickers on top refer to flooded battery and it's got a breathing tube attached. BMW insisting it's AGM, hence the price. Best off just getting a comparable standard battery and having an Indy code it? I don't want to start buying diagnostic software and another laptop to run it just for coding a battery or checking the dpf soot levels.