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  1. Yesterday
  2. Re introducing myself with my new front grilles that I’m rather proud of… Same car that made me join the forum…clutch, DMF and chains done and just aced another MOT. The old girl is pushing 200k now tho so got her a new face (kidney grilles swapped)
  3. Damn I never replied … So to catch it up, the issue was the bulb holders/cluster arrangement had an issue which melted the plug and somehow took the REM module with it. So even with the plug repaired and a new board/cluster still nothing. so REM fitted and some pain getting it coded (I really wanna know how to do stuff like that) all was working and all the things that stopped working because of the used REM now work again. and then very recently I’ve ditched the rear lights swapped to LCI rears, wired and coded etc. just front head lights to swap now. also fitted some new front grilles which I’m particularly impressed with.
  4. The only thing I have to say back is that when they gave me the invoice and done all the work they stated that the reason for an engine replacement was because they couldn’t guarantee to clean it out properly and therefore a complete swap would eradicate that. But, in the response they say we were warned about the debris, well surely than won’t matter as they swapped all the parts? Seems like a contradiction is all. Once again thanks for your reply I’ve had a lot of help from yourself.
  5. Update - bmw have looked at the car. The issue/noise was the top mount. Wasn’t anything to do with the dust kit on the shocks, which was fitted correctly. The issue was all the parts didn’t go back together properly because of the age/condition of them. 1/2 labour to diagnose the noise/issue - £700 all in for both sides to be replaced.
  6. Hi all. I am having Bluetooth problems on my BMW 2010 f11 520d SE Touring. I want to replace the Bluetooth Antenna. Does anyone know where it might be located? I have read either in the central console area or in the roof?
  7. Hi all. I am having Bluetooth problems on my BMW f11 520d SE Touring. I want to replace the TCU. The unit details are contained in the photo. My question is what unit number should I be matching on the replacement. Is it the BMW number (BMW 84.10-9 238 245 - 01) and/or date (24/08/2010) or the Model Number BE B011. 100 991-10? I have found several replacments which come close on BMW number and date but it is impossible to come close on matching 100%. Any information would be mush appreciated!
  8. Unfortunately the only way to pursue would be with a full strip down and inspection by a qualified Engineer to assess the cause (not cheap) and even then may not be in your favour. The garage are correct that clearing all sludge and swarf from a damaged engine is essential or potential problems are still there. I think you have some difficult and expensive decisions you could talk to a BMW Specialist Dismantler like Quarry Motors who may help in finding a low mileage complete engine or scrap the car I feel your pain Dave
  9. From your problem it would seem to be a "wear and tear" issue ie, a lot of years of turning the wheel. The slip ring gets a lot of wear so check it carefully Good Luck Dave
  10. Morning Paul Always a worry when one of these warnings surfaces there is an Oil Pressure sensor normally on the Filter housing I would start there If it hasn't been done recently Oil and Filter change and new sensor and see if that fixes it Good Luck Dave
  11. Hello Dave, thanks for the reply. Sorry my questioning. new to these problems. Is the slip ring the #3 in the pic? Looking at the pic and the steering wheel itself, it seems to be just a metal bush for connecting the steering wheel metal base to the sliding pin in the column, nothing really special. At least it seems to me....may be I'm wrong. Not understand which fault could be if everything is OK with the right "button" and the left/bottom "button" works if connected to the metal of the S/W (immediately close to the copper areas).🤔 Unfortunately (or maybe not?🤣) the model year is very basic and no diagnosis is available. Thanks again for your help, bye! Andrea
  12. Last week
  13. Hi Dave, just after a bit more advice if you wouldn’t mind. I went back to the garage to complain as it was only just over a year ago that I got a replacement engine. I mentioned how I was frustrated about what I think is the timing chain snapping after such a short amount of time. They emailed back and obviously tried to distance themselves and say they mention if it was installed correctly it wouldn’t have taken 13 months or so to go wrong. I’m in the belief that surely this is to with the garage rather than just luck? Do I pursue them or give up? I’ve attached the garages response. Thanks in advance.
  14. A couple of weeks ago, on a particularly cold morning I got the 'Low oil pressure.... stop carefully etc' warning. My heart sank having spent a small fortune over the last couple of years on several major repairs. However, I turned the engine off and back on and the warning had gone. This has happened a couple more times and I went to a local BMW specialist. They couldn't find anything wrong but did say any repair if needed would entail lowering the subframe or engine out - 6 hours work. It's happened a few times since but only when the outside temperature is low and never when the engine is warm. The car has a full and complete service history, had £1000's spent on it, done 156k miles and is a 520D. Should I be worried?
  15. Hi everyone, new member from sunny Anglesey with a new to me Mini Cooper 2016 F57. Recently bought some Piano Black dash trims to replace the ones on my car, looking for some advice on how to remove the two at the bottom of the middle dash trim either side of the usb connectors etc. Do I need to remove the centre console at all please or is there an easier way ? Thank you..
  16. Hi Zulqarnain Welcome to the Forum Sadly without seeing or hearing the noise who can tell. Plus not knowing which engine 2.0 petrol 2.0d 2.5i petrol 2.5d 3.0i 3.0d the list goes on. At 161k I would not be surprised if chain guides and tensioner needs changing Good luck Dave
  17. Afternoon Andrea My bet would be the Slip Spring behind the steering wheel is at fault. A diagnostic would confirm if you have access to BMW 1.4.0 or similar (not expensive to buy and worth its weight) Take a look at www.realoem.com put the last 7 digits of your Vin into the search box it will bring up your model. Then look at the Steering section, the small exploded drawing will give clues to what fits where plus there will be part numbers that ensure you get the correct part for your model if replacing it is required. Also if you double click the part number it should give a list of any alternatives available Good luck with the fix Dave
  18. HI. This morning I did 2 tests. The first. I repeated what I did yesterday: - I connected the wiring faston to the steering wheel cover - I took a flying electric cable, for testing - I connected each pin of the cover with its copper-plated area on the steering wheel (with the test cable) The right "button" pin, if connected to its copper-plated area, makes the horn sound. The pins of the left and bottom "buttons" do not sound the horn if connected to the respective copper areas. The pins of the left and bottom "buttons" when connected to the copper area of the right "button" cause the horn to sound. The pins of the left and bottom "buttons" make the horn sound if connected to a metal point on the steering wheel immediately near the respective copper areas. The second. - I detached the faston from the steering wheel cover. - I put the faston in direct contact with the copper-plated areas The faston in contact with the copper-plated area on the right causes the horn to sound. The faston in contact with the copper area on the left or at the bottom does not cause the horn to sound. The faston in contact with a metal point of the steering wheel immediately near the left or lower copper areas causes the horn to sound. It seems that these blessed copper areas, which should facilitate the closure of the contact and the electrical circuit, are isolated from the metal base of the steering wheel. I don't understand how this could have happened and above all I can't think of how to fix it. Ideas? Thank you!
  19. Morning Andrew Welcome to the Forum Timing chain issues are quite rare but still exist, the upper timing chain can be changed in situ I believe (not done one personally). My own instinct is as extended service intervals became the norm the number of incidents increased I change oil and filters annually at similar miles to those you intend. Use only good quality oil and filters Generally as with good maintenance they are capable of star ship mileages As for any used car History History History. Use all the checks you can to verify mileage use and service history. On your test drive ensure everything works as it should every button every switch every gadget. Tyres should be good condition and good quality. Then if your happy with the car and the price, ENJOY YOUR BEEMER Dave
  20. Good morning Andrea. welcome to the forum.
  21. Hi Jae. welcome to the forum. where are you based?
  22. Hi I am Jae. Own a 2 series Active Tourer. Since I drive on the same side with UK, this must be a great place for me to share and get good information about the car.
  23. Update. As @Greydog implied, I do have CCC and I’ve also found out that the 4:3 flip up screen was an option that may have only been available on the e82/e88. I purchased a 2019 map update disc from eBay and so far so good, maps are very up to date, even has the Mersey Gateway (new Runcorn Bridge) on it. So this has fulfilled my needs, the car is only a weekend toy so I don’t need all the extras that a complete system upgrade to CIC or later would give, so I’m quite happy.
  24. Hello everyone. I have a horn problem on my '93 E36 325i convertible Euro Spec. I have the 3-spoke sport steering wheel, without airbag. You can see it in the picture (even if disassembled and just placed in position). I realized that the horn only works if I press on the right spoke, it doesn't work if I press on the left one or on the bottom central spoke. Since it works on the right spoke, its entire electrical system is OK (horn, fuse, relay, sliding contacts, wiring, ground....). There must be a problem with the steering wheel contacts. I dismantled the steering wheel as you can see in the pics, in the 3 push areas on the steering wheel there are 3 contacts on the cover which, when pressed, come into contact with the copper-plated areas of the steering wheel base (you can clearly see the imprints of the contacts themselves) causing the electrical contact to close and the horn honking. Cleaned the contacts, cleaned the copper areas, put some grease for electrical contacts, nothing happened. Everything just as before. I did a test with a copper cable: I connected a contact point on the cover iwith its copper-plated area on the steering wheel base. Nothing is happening. Instead it happens (not always, I have to move a bit with the test cable) that the horn sounds if I touch the area of the steering wheel base immediately close to the copper-plated area. In short, it almost seems that the copper-plated area that should favor the contact and closing the circuit is isolated from the base of the steering wheel. And this is the same for the left racespoke as for the low central spoke. I don't know what exactly the problem could be and therefore how to solve it. Do you have ideas? has this happened to anyone? Thanks for your help Greetings
  25. Hello All, I'm new in the Forum. I own a '93 E36 325i cabrio Euro Spec M/T semi-auto folding top. It has 135K. Quite happy, some little problems, still working on it for making it perfect. Almost😄 Thanks for helping!😊
  26. Hi, I have got bmw 5 series 63 plate with 161k miles. Yesterday I got car engine oil and filter changed and soon after that, car starting making noise from engine. I took it to few garages today and they all saying timing chain needs replacing. I'm struggling to understand there was no noise or problem like this before yesterday before car was serviced. What really happened within an hour? Is it actually a timing chain or can be something else ? Any advice or comments ? Many thanks
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