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Sounds like you've not had much luck! When you say the crank has been replaced, I assume you mean crank pulley?? They're a vibration damper and not unknown to fail. Why the garage didn't listen to you when you said the clutch felt odd I do not know! Perhaps the EML is on due to Pre/Post cat sensors not tying up due to exhaust leak?

Yes the crank pulley and belt, because the car was shaking and couldn’t find a misfire they said that was the problem. I think at this point they are fed up of seeing me in the garage which is a little meh, also feeling like every time I leave I leave with another problem. I considered taking it to a BMW garage as there is one local to me, I just don’t want to keep throwing money at it and obviously costs at BMW are largely greater than my usual place. With it having a new EGR valve and cooler, the second garage cleaning the pipes/system I expected that it would have recovered from this EML issue. Since the new loudness mainly when EML is illuminated I wondered if maybe that could indicate where the problem lies. Maybe I need to allow her to go, I fear she’s trying to give up the ghost! 👎🏻

Hi Nicole Welcome to the Forum Oh dear what a terrible tale of woe I am not a Mechanic but I am an old engineer who has maintained his and family cars for a very very long time. First the EML light. If the garage had a BMW capable dignostic reader they would have had more information, however an experienced Mechanic/Engineer should understand that a Code is an indication of the symptom not the cure. If the EGR was clogged it isn't rocket science to know that all pipework and the Inlet manifold will also be clogged and need cleaning/replacing. I am at a bit of a loss as to the Crank unless you mean the Crank Pulley and Belts were changed my question would be why? Any decent home mechanic knows to put the cluth down and if that effects noise and vibration then the issue is with the clutch/flywheel. That is a big job as it is Gearbox out so I would expect cost between £700 and £1000 at a Garage. My advice would be First, you are the only one who can decide whether to spend more of your hard earned, if you decide to stay with the car find a decent garage/mechanic Good Luck Dave

Hello! what engine is it? What model ? could be crank sensor, sticking throttle body, idle control valve, maf sensor…. I know as my x5 is giving me jip with similar symptoms

ongoing problem with my 1series for probably over 2 years. It started with the EML illuminating in orange back then, this was intermittent and could be weeks/months until it happened again with no recognisable symptoms. Fast forward a little, now I have some symptoms when the EML appears… and that is a sluggish/lack of power but not in limp. I took it to the garage and they plugged it in and diagnosed a problem with EGR, I paid £600 for this to be replaced with a genuine BMW part and left the garage. After driving for roughly 15 minutes the light reappeared with the same symptoms to my horror! I took the car back, they checked some plastic pipe and said it was cracked and replaced it, again told me it was fine and I drove home to the light reappearing again. The garage at this point didn’t know what the problem was, and so I took it elsewhere for a second opinion. The second garage plugged it in, and it threw out what I’m assuming is the same code as before as they said it was EGR issue. I booked it in and they had a good look around it, they apparently cleaned the system, and spoke to BMW to ask for any further guidance. When I returned, the car was still the same and they had exhausted all avenues. Since the cars age, I have just put up with the light flicking on and off and nobody being able to diagnose and fix and was running it to its death. Fast forward again to now… I have a new problem, which was the car shaking when idle, and was told it could be a misfire. When the car went in for a check they plugged it in and it wasn’t showing misfire, up the ramp it went and they came back and said it was the crank. That it was all cracked and they could see it shaking which was causing the car to shake. I mentioned my clutch that I could feel the shake through the pedal, and it felt a little off and would that have any impact etc and was told no. Car goes in, crank and belt replaced. Gets in the car, exact same as before. With new rattle on the dash! Goes back in, he sent somebody out and listened to the engine (unsure why..the sound was coming from the dash and the shake was a visual on the whole car). I asked again, would this be anything to do with my clutch? He starts messing with the clutch, and noticed when it is fully pressed engine was quieter, and bringing it up to bite it was getting louder. Next thing, they’re telling me they’ve misdiagnosed it and that they should have looked further into the clutch issue and now say it’s that/flywheel. I am no mechanic, but this leaves me with questions as to why that wasn’t done in the first place. Anyway, I left the garage fuming that day, and started driving home. I got about 4 minutes down the bypass and started to hear a bit of a noise, like the exhaust of a kevved up car. Continues down the road and the noise gets louder and louder - this is no noise I have ever had before. Goes back to the garage following day, apparently the flexi pipe is corroded and needs replacing/patching. Now, as I said I didn’t have this problem before the car went in for the crank and I’m reluctant to agree it coincidence. I have now noticed, that when the EML is on is when it is loudest, when the light goes off it’s pretty much non existent. However the light spends most of its life on at this point so it’s constantly noisy. Does anybody have any suggestions with the new issue in regard to the EML? Obviously the cost of the clutch is a big one, but if the EML can’t be fixed/the noise from engine/exhaust I don’t think I’ll be putting any more money in to it. If you made it this far - thank you 😅

Hi - looking for some suggestions as I have had an ongoing problem with my 1series for probably over 2 years. It started with the EML illuminating in orange back then, this was intermittent and could be weeks/months until it happened again with no recognisable symptoms. Fast forward a little, now I have some symptoms when the EML appears… and that is a sluggish/lack of power but not in limp. I took it to the garage and they plugged it in and diagnosed a problem with EGR, I paid £600 for this to be replaced with a genuine BMW part and left the garage. After driving for roughly 15 minutes the light reappeared with the same symptoms to my horror! I took the car back, they checked some plastic pipe and said it was cracked and replaced it, again told me it was fine and I drove home to the light reappearing again. The garage at this point didn’t know what the problem was, and so I took it elsewhere for a second opinion. The second garage plugged it in, and it threw out what I’m assuming is the same code as before as they said it was EGR issue. I booked it in and they had a good look around it, they apparently cleaned the system, and spoke to BMW to ask for any further guidance. When I returned, the car was still the same and they had exhausted all avenues. Since the cars age, I have just put up with the light flicking on and off and nobody being able to diagnose and fix and was running it to its death. Fast forward again to now… I have a new problem, which was the car shaking when idle, and was told it could be a misfire. When the car went in for a check they plugged it in and it wasn’t showing misfire, up the ramp it went and they came back and said it was the crank. That it was all cracked and they could see it shaking which was causing the car to shake. I mentioned my clutch that I could feel the shake through the pedal, and it felt a little off and would that have any impact etc and was told no. Car goes in, crank and belt replaced. Gets in the car, exact same as before. With new rattle on the dash! Goes back in, he sent somebody out and listened to the engine (unsure why..the sound was coming from the dash and the shake was a visual on the whole car). I asked again, would this be anything to do with my clutch? He starts messing with the clutch, and noticed when it is fully pressed engine was quieter, and bringing it up to bite it was getting louder. Next thing, they’re telling me they’ve misdiagnosed it and that they should have looked further into the clutch issue and now say it’s that/flywheel. I am no mechanic, but this leaves me with questions as to why that wasn’t done in the first place. Anyway, I left the garage fuming that day, and started driving home. I got about 4 minutes down the bypass and started to hear a bit of a noise, like the exhaust of a kevved up car. Continues down the road and the noise gets louder and louder - this is no noise I have ever had before. Goes back to the garage following day, apparently the flexi pipe is corroded and needs replacing/patching. Now, as I said I didn’t have this problem before the car went in for the crank and I’m reluctant to agree it coincidence. I have now noticed, that when the EML is on is when it is loudest, when the light goes off it’s pretty much non existent. However the light spends most of its life on at this point so it’s constantly noisy. Does anybody have any suggestions with the new issue in regard to the EML? Obviously the cost of the clutch is a big one, but if the EML can’t be fixed/the noise from engine/exhaust I don’t think I’ll be putting any more money in to it. If you made it this far - thank you 😅

The correct coolant or even a waterless coolant is the only way to prevent corrosion inside the engine. Distilled water will not stop corrosion and it freezes at the same point as ordinary tap water, unless it is mixed with the correct ratio of coolant as recommended by the manufacturer. Companies like Ford, GM, Mercedes, Chrysler, BMW, VW Audi and many others have been doing this a long time and spend $£m on research to make their product reliable, or are they all wrong. An incorrect coolant can and will react with gaskets, seals, and the disparate metals used in the engine Copper, Aluminium, Magnesium, Cast Iron, and Steel. I also have a 2 car garage but my wifes car is in there plus my tools (saves her scraping the ice off, happy wife happy life) In the early 1960's water and no Coolant cost me a cracked engine block when it froze, so I too learned a long time ago. I have also repaired damage for friends and family so I am afraid we will always disagree on this Dave

I learned the effects of using ordinary water mixed with coolants, a few months ago. I knew it was wrong a long time ago from manuals, friends and forums, but I just didn't have the time/care. From now on I am using distilled water for every car I have. I have a two-car garage, but it is full of car parts, tools (plumbing, carpentry, electricity), so it's the driveway.

Morning Darren From the sound of things you may have found a bargain. Good luck with the purchase Dave

Morning Symptoms could point towards the Footwell Control Module or it's Earth point Dave

Morning Andrew Your local Specialist sounds more anal than some of the Dealers 😅 Anyone North of the border help Andrew out with a reset ?? A good independent with Autologic or Foxwell Diagnostics should be able to do the job Good Luck Dave

Also noticed I have no headlight indicator on the dash now (blue high beam works) and the intermittent wipers have stopped! Lol

Update… took it for a run today and it did 30 miles without an issue… then the check engine light came on, no loss of power… got home and it’s telling me banks 1 and 2 running outside tolerances. put a new MAF sensor on which I bought this week. Let’s see what the next test run does!

Cheers @Greydog I went and had a look this morning and it appears pretty tidy. It's the facelift model so I'm quite happy about that. I think the timing chain and tensioner will need done, but that's always a sensible thing to do anyway, especially when you're not sure of the history. There's a slight noise from around the right hand side of engine, reminds of the the tappits on my MK3 Escort. I didn't think to listen for it when pushing the clutch down to see if it went away. Offside rear light has a crack so an easy fix. Only rust I could find was surface rust on driveshafts, suspension arms etc, and some on the underside of the bonnet, the underneath looks pretty clean. The only leak I can see is a weep from the hosepipe from the power steering tank where they join. No gunge around oil filler and oil looks pretty clean/fresh on dipstick. There is an engine mount on the right hand side at the top of the engine that I think might need replaced, and it will most definitely needs pads and discs all round. Bodywork needs a good pollish and wax. Took it for a wee drive on the private roads and the only knocking I can hear is a very slight knock from something at the rear, possibly the right hand side. Power steering is nice and quiet, although to me it feels stiff? But I am driving a 2023 Combo van and the steering is very light so probably not a good comparison. It is smooth and quiet though, and no heavier than my daughters pug 206 from the same era. No warning lights appeared during the 45 minutes I was having a look, apart from the low fuel! All switches and knobs work, passengers electric window sounds a little crunchy. Shocks, springs etc all look good. So I think I will go for it, but of course will see if I can get few quid knocked off first!!! If they say no they say no.

Hi Dave, I do have a BMW specialist local to me but the last time I phoned the girl asked me if the car had ever been in to them before and when I said no she said they would have no interest in looking at it. I think I would rather stick a box of paper hankies against the I drive screen. The only problem I have is its due an MOT just after Christmas. I will just have to keep putting out feelers and see if anyone can do it. By the way I'm in grey Burns country. cheers Paneuro.

According to www.realoem.com the part is 06 Positive battery lead 1 61126929715 Looking at the drawing it connects between the power lead right connection in your Photo and the main power distribution on top of the battery arrowed in your photo Dave

Thank you and do you know what the missing part is?

Morning Darren Already answered in welcome If the deaded tin worm hasn't killed it you may have a bargain. BMW love using common earth ponts one that is corroded can effect multiple systems so identify them and make sure they are cleaned and making a good connection Good Luck Dave

Ochtend Frank Welkom op het forum Uw probleem kan van alles zijn, van een defecte/defecte lamp tot een bijna lege batterij, een diagnostische scan zal het vertellen Zoek een BMW Specialist om de kosten op een redelijk niveau te houden Succes Dave

Morning Andrew I wonder if there is a member on here near you with a Capable Diagnostic scanner ? Or check the register of BMW Specialists there will be one not to far away and generally about half the cost of a Main Dealer What area are you in ? I am in sunny Sussex Dave

Morning Andrew The attached drawing is from www.realoem.com it seems to show you are infact missing a connection (item 6) Dave

Morning Darren Welcome to the Forum To be fair we don't see to many Mini questions which actually points to them being pretty reliable Get a good BMW/Mini capable Diagnostic reader they are well worth it BMW INPA/ISTA is best obviously as it gives dealer level access plus Workshop Information and many other functions. There are several alternatives these days iCarsoft, Autoligic, Foxwell are a few others www.realoem.com is an online Parts List if you enter the last seven digits of your Vin into the search box it will call up your model then search the sections for what you need. Having the correct part number means what ever you buy will fit (obviously) but also allows a good search for best prices. There is also a Register of BMW Specialists in case a Garage is needed and a Register of BMW Specialist recyclers Normal buying rules apply Condition, History, History and History make sure everything works I mean everything if all good then I hope you enjoy your Mini Dave

Right, changed it… it’s a bit of a faff, but basically remove the airbox and everything into the throttle body and there it is. took it for a run and all seems nice… starts to come home and it suddenly goes into fail safe mode and loses all power again… gets it home and revs are all over the place. Computer says throttle position sensor Issue!. I have already replaced the throttle body. I’ll take it for another run later. 🙄😩

Thank you. Do you know if there is a red cable missing as I have seen it on other 1 series?

Hi Dave, I tried disconnecting the negative lead but no cigar. I have been trying to reset the brake pad light but have now discovered it has to be done by BMW as its on the I drive. I phoned the local bmw service department and the guy said they could do it for me. There might be a charge for it which is an eye watering £185.00 for the first hour or it might be less. Think I'll just blank of the I drive screen. Paneuro.