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  1. Yesterday
  2. I've previously opened the glovebox a number of times with the key, mainly to do map updates. Tried to do so today and it seems jammed. It won't open with the key either horizontal or vertical. Anyone come across this and have a solution ? Thanks in anticipation.
  3. Last week
  4. Thanks everyone for your recommendations. I finally decided on the pads from Burger Motorsports. They lifted the car without any damage to those plastic jack points. They're made from aluminum, fit well, and worked perfectly with my floor jack. BTW TCon, I nearly purchased the ones you posted.
  5. Morning Richard Welcome to the Forum I would start with your local BMW Dealer; I have always found them very helpful particularly when there is a potential sale to be made. They should be able to explain the different trim levels plus they will have access to a Range of BMW Approved and Warrantied cars. Just too muddy the water there will be a number of cars in the used market that had been brought as say an SE but with additional customer options (Park Assist for example) The target is to get the list of what is available with their trim and option levels and see how close it comes to your wish list then negotiate price against what compromise you're willing to make. Personally, I would stick with AWD for sure footed handling in all conditions, yes you could possibly get a few more mile per gallon with front drive but if stuck on a slippery grass verge or snowy road ?? Good Luck with the Hunt Dave
  6. Ok, so new to here and keen to learn the various grades of X1. Will be looking for a 2017/19 diesel auto as a cash purchase but wondered if there is an easy to find and read spec chart showing what each grade (SE, MSport etc) has, and does not have. Engines I have figured out and leaning to a 190bhp.but wonder if the 25D twin turbo engine is any more of a risk than a 20D single turbo??? 2 or 4 wheel drive not sure yet, coming from a range rover p38 I don't need to traverse boggy fields but need sure footed on tarmac in wet and icy conditions. Self park. Is this like the Nissan version where it will steer into a parking space? Want front and rear parking sensors anyway, electric tailgate, smallest wheels they came with as standard, sat nav, mobile phone connectivity, not bothered about panoramic roof, apple car play or android auto. Either alcantara or leather any colour but not solid red, black or white. less than 40k miles. I realise this is heck of a wish list for a second hand car but pointers for standard spec and options I ought to seek out and any to avoid TIA
  7. I am in the process of looking for a BMW enthusiast that would be interested in buying my 2002 330ci convertible. It needs work but still runs fine.
  8. Hello guys! I would like to be able to see the AFR on my BMW E90 320d m47 '06. I have the K+DCAN cable and ThinkDriver. Is any way to see the AFR with inpa, ista or something else?
  9. I purchased jack pads from amazon. They were only about 5-7 pounds each. works great and fits perfect. I keep them in my car in case I get a flat tyre and then give them to the garage to use so they dont damage my jacking points.
  10. Hi Mark, I dont know if you have gotten this sorted by now or not but just to add my own experience to this as it may help someone. I had a similar issue myself on my F11, were there was a drone from the rear at speeds of around 50mph. I also thought this was coming from the diff, and as Greydog said, the changing of one is about three hours work and can be expensive, even if you do it yourself. Ive done it on a E90 3 series in the past and didnt fancy doing it again on the ground. I did check it myself for all the usual suspects, including the rear wheel bearings which showed no signs of movement. I crossed my fingers and changed the diff fluid and added an additive from LIQUI MOLY to it but sadly this didnt improve the noise. I had suspected it was actually the rear bearings as the fluid taken from the diff was only 12 months old and changed by myself and when I did the latest change the fluid wasnt grey and didnt appear to have any particles in it. So at this point I decided to change the rear bearings anyway as they were probably in since new (2013) and they have a tendency to fail anyway and this car is getting all rubber bits and known common faults changed over time anyway. What i had discovered was that the rear bearings were seized into position because they had failed some time ago but didnt make enough noise to be noticed. They were so badly seized that I couldnt get them off so I sent the car to a local garage that I know well and he also couldnt get them off. In the end I found a specialist with a really big hydraulic pullers (normally used on VW transporter front bears apparently) who made light work of the job. Did this get rid of the groaning coming from the rear of my car...... yes it did! It is back to being a nice quite cruiser again. Im not suggesting you are wrong about your diagnosis of your car but im more suggesting that these F10/11's are very well insulated from the road noise and this stopped me from hearing the sounds of the rear bearings failing over time which lead to them being welded in position. This meant that when the failing bearing finally made enough noise for me to hear it, it was sudden enough to make me think it was the diff instead. Also the rear bearing didnt have any noticeable wiggle which would typically be an indicator of imminent failure. Diagnosing the difference between these two possible failures can be tricky at times and both can be expensive to repair, so for that reason I'd like to say to be sure of what the problem actually is by maybe asking a diff and gearbox specialist to have a look also. Because If had changed my diff out and found it was actually the rear bearings I'd be kicking myself more than a pro goalkeeper at a free pedo kicking competition. Hope you got you car sorted and for a reasonable price too. Happy motoring.
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