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Morning Jo Welcome to the Forum You can get headlamp lens cleaning kits that work really well the other check is the bulbs themselves. If they are getting on then their output can drop, are the dip beams Halogen or Xenon if they are Halogen they will always seem dim try changing to LED (didn't exist when I had my 4.4) My first X5 4.4 E53 had Halogen lamps and I had to stand in front to make sure they were on !! they were terrible I upgraded to Xenon unit's brought from a specialist BMW dismantler Quarry Motors. My E53 4.6is came with Xenon lamps but they didn't seem as bright as the 4.4 so cleaned the lens's checked the lamps and they were 35w changed them to 55w same as the 4.4 brilliant My current X5 E70 has Xenon but I am about to polish the Lens's and change the lamps as they are not as bright as they were I will also upgrade the Main beam's to LED Hope this helps Dave

I Have an X5 2003 and the headlight lenses are going foggy. can the unit be replaced. Advice please, dreading dark nights. I hope someone can help please. jo

Hi Gavin Welcome to the Forum Would have seen this sooner if it was posted in the X1 section matey I have read some good things about DWMotorsport in Durham I think But there is a register of BMW Specialists Google will help Good Luck if it isnt fixed already Dave

Morning Ryan Welcome to the Forum If your car is in fact a 2023 X3 then the obvious place is the Dealer as it is under Warranty or should be. If your car is older and no longer under warranty you need the help of someone or a Garage with BMW diagnostic capable equipment Dave

So somewhat recently when I go to start the ignition the car will go to start up but then putter out after 1 second and everything shuts down. I’ll wait 5 seconds and try again. Sometimes it will keep cranking but most of the time it will just start up normally after the failed attempt. Then run completely fine. I would say the failed start happens once every 30 starts. I’m kinda at a loss as to where to start.

Morning Gary Welcome to the Forum First why the change ? What are you trying to achieve I am pretty sure that your model year came with either Halogen or Xenon head lamps you could try upgrading the bulb/lamp. Dip will be Xenon main beam halogen so could be changed to LED as can DLR's also clean and polish the lens will help as they get stained and cloudy The latest BMW headlights use LED for DLR and Laser technology for the Headlamps As for sources first check if they fit and what is involved in controlling them you may have some wiring involved Then specialist breakers/recyclers like Quarry Motors and search Google Good Luck with the search Dave

Looks like you have to get under then Andy I have changed a Turbo on one of these that was an adventure as well. The car was stuck on my drive for over a week as twice the wrong exchange turbo was sent Good Luck Dave

Looking for advice on replacing headlights on E60 520D where to buy and how , who etc

I see, that's very very interesting Dave. Well, I'll be getting a clearer answer this Sunday so i'll be back with an update next Monday!

Thanks for your reply Dave. I've been using that website but the problem is the diagram (posted above) doesn't match my DPF. No1 and No2 are switched on my DPF. I can find the post temp sensor No 4 but I just can't locate No 5 the post o2 sensor. The quest will go on. 😃

Hi Andy Welcome to the Forum Don't know if you are aware of www.realoem.com put the last 7 digits of your Vin in the search box it will bring up your model, then check the exhaust section you should find what you need. If you double click the part number if there are any alternatives it will give a list Dave From memory there is a manifold pressure sensor under the manifold as well

Checking my F21 with an ODBC reader I've got a P22AE code which is Bank1 Sensor2 O2 sensor issue. Checking the BMW Diagram the 2nd sensor is number 5 but the only problem is that the diagram doesn't match my DPF. Has any changed the post cat/dpf o2 sensor on a 2015 F21 with a B37 engine? Does anyone have an idea of the location of this sensor? I'm guessing that its done from under the car rather than via the engine bay. Any idea's?

Have you checked the weather protection plate(s) behind the disks are not catching the disk?

Certainly testing your resilience Tino I have seen 2, X5 E53 with corroded pins on the DME that gave no start no crank. In both cases the issue was caused by a faulty thermostat coolant was making its way up the loom by capillary action and caused damage to the DME. One I changed the DME, EWS, Keys Door lock and ignition lock, got the lot as a kit from Quarry Motors the other I could clean and get repaired by ECU Testing in Nottingham Dave

Glad you finally got it sorted Gerry technology is great when it's working and a real pain when it's not. Dave

Hi can anyone give any advice? Turbo blew now engine won't turn over suspect engine failure. Looking for advice on the best solution. Is it best to cut the losses and get rid or could someone rebuild the engine North East X1 2.0 2017

Many thanks Dave, I have received some information on this from a different source but won't be able to confirm if it is correct until I check myself on Sunday. They said that "Fuse 22 is the power to operate the pump switched thru the relay closure" meaning constant power to the relay. And that "Fuse 31 is switched power to the coil relay from the DME to energize it, enabling the relay to supply B+ thru it to the fuel pump" which would be the signal power to allow the relay to send power to the fuel pump. That means I was correct with my thoughts on the function of the Fuses for the fuel pump. That being said... What I am understanding, unless I misunderstood that information, is that the DME sends a signal to Fuse 31, which in turn sends signal to the Fuel Pump Relay to allow the constant power to run to the Fuel Pump. Is that about right? Also, another person informed me that if the crank position sensor was bad I would not have been able to start the car on starting fluid... I looked online and sure enough I found information saying "The DME uses the Crankshaft Sensor signal to time the pulsing of the injectors and timing of the ignition. Without that signal you have NEITHER spark from the coils/plugs NOR injector pulse." Sooo I'm at a loss for words. I'm still changing the crank position sensor just incase. That aside, I'm thinking maybe DME Related Issues. Alright, plans for Sunday so far: -Trace The 3 Wires Back From Fuel Pump Relay To See Where They Go, Look Out For Any Broken Wires/Corrosion Along The Way -Check Wiring From Crank Position Sensor To DME For Any Broken Wires/Corrosion -Check All Connections By DME -Check DME Connectors For Corrosion -Check DME Pins For Corrosion -Remove DME Case (If Possible) And Check For Corrosion -Check DME Grounds -Check DME Relay Socket I also need to fix my OBD port to see if I can communicate with the DME in the first place. OBD port is not receiving power so I need to diagnose that as well. I have an idea as to what may be causing that as well but have not checked to confirm yet. I also want to jump the fuel pump relay to make sure power will go to the fuel pump like that. Any other ideas on what I need to check? Maybe I missed something?

Thanks Dave, transpires it was an update on iPhone that’s caused issues with multiple manufacturers, hours of google finally gave me an answer. cheers, Gerry.

Morning Gerry Welcome to the Forum Sorry but apart from the obvious "check the phones settings" or "clear the Phones and Cars memory then Reconnect" I can't offer much help Dave

Wow Tino your car is one for the archives So now you are looking for the supply to fuse 31 I will go back into TIS and see what I can find Almost there Buddy Dave