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Hi Gav Check www.newtis.info it is a BMW technical information site which is used by BMW dealerships for "how too's" certainly when rebuilding the V8's tools and procedures are needed for locking the cams and for timing the Vanos. I would assume the straight 6 is the same but I have never rebuilt the diesel so newtis would be my first port of call. The rest is straight forward just remember the head bolts are stretch bolts and should be replaced, pretty standard on modern engines though not cheap (voice of experience after rebuilding my 4.6 V8). The other thing to remember is the system can sometimes be difficult to bleed all the air out of, could explain your hot/cold and the impression of a geyser.
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Question. In the event that replacing both thermostats does not resolve the issue, what would be the main issues with replacing the head gasket? As in, would specialist tools be required for holding the cam in place for example, or would it be a conventional means of unbolt, remove, skim the head and then replace using a torque wrench etc.
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Morning Craig Welcome to the Forum, here's to you having many "smiles" of trouble free motoring. ENJOY Dave
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Just saying hello... Got myself a 3 year old 520d. And boy am I pleased!!!
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Video: LÜX ARAÇ SNAPLERİ | BMW M5 | YAĞMURLU HAVADA DRİFT |
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He's ordering the two thermostats from europarts. The water pump seems to be ok as it is pumping water through. Those thermostats are about 40 quid each though..!
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Video: LÜX ARAÇ PAYLAŞIMLARI | BMW M3 | WHATSAPP , INSTAGRAM PAYLAŞIMLARI
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Video: LÜX ARAÇ PAYLAŞIMLARI | BMW M5 | WHATSAPP , INSTAGRAM PAYLAŞIMLARI
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Video: BEST OF BMW M SOUNDS! M2, M3 F80, M4 F82, M5 F10, M6 2019
Bimmer Owners Club posted a video in BMW Videos
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Cheers for that... I'll keep you posted
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Morning Gav Your engine is M57 which has cast block and alloy head. I would change the Water Pump Thermostat and the one under the expansion tank, I would even consider changing the expansion tank as it is plastic and if over heated can become brittle and split (voice of experience) Have a look at www.realoem.com, put the last 7 digits of your Vin in the search box it will bring up your car. The site is a BMW parts site so you can compare part numbers with other models to see what is transferable. Also check out www.newtis.info for help with how too's. The M57 TU engine is used in many BMW models as well as Range Rover/Landrover, again compare part numbers. If you click on a part number it will bring up a list of models it was used in. The BMW 3.0 diesel is as tough as old boots and head gasket issue is rare, so I would suspect thermostats as first port of call. Good Luck Dave
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Video: BMW S63TU M3 F90 Exhaust Comparison REMUS / AKRAPOVIC / Armytrix / Capristo / Dinan / Eisnmann / RPI
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- Last week
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Really sorry about repeat postings on my own thread, hope it doesn't break forum rules. I've been looking on the bay of fees for a worst case scenario, aka engine replacement, and there's loads of them on there... but whats the difference between E39 and E57? Or is there any difference between a car engine 3.0 diesel and the x5 engine 3.0 diesel? Sorry if it sounds daft but this is my first X5 so i'm a total fish out of water here.
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Hi, Got a problem with my E53 X5 and i may need a replacement engine for it. What sort of money do they go for? and is there anyone to avoid buying from?
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Almost forgot... When driving it, i keep the heater on full, as it draws heat from the engine and delays the over heating (not that i drive it much at the moment), but... what i did notice was the fact that periodically, it would blow cold air into the car, even though the guage said halfway hot, and there was no warning message telling me to check the coolant level. That message does come on from time to time, but it just seemed weird that for no reason it would stop blowing hot and start blowing cold.
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Hello all, X5 3 litre diesel straight six on a 53 plate here..! It's overheating and the expansion tank is pressurising, yet there is no sign of a free guinness when you remove the oil filler cap for inspection, so it would appear that no water is getting into the engine, just air getting into the water. Probable cause is head gasket, and its been into the garage over the past two days, where the engine was completely flushed out with a wynns engine flush treatment, before being drained down and then hosed through with normal water, which was followed by a mixture of water, blue anti freeze, and two bottles of seel steel... or steel seel (it looks like two bottles of lime green bogey water). It was run up, then left to cool down, but the expansion tank was once again, greatly pressurised. If you leave it to run with the cap off, it dribbles over the top of the neck for a while, then suddenly everything shoots down inside the tank, which is followed by a few impersonations of a canadian, hot water geizer. Having spoken with a guy at a machine shop, he states that the straight six is the worst for head gaskets, as the block and head are both alluminium, and as a result, most attempts to skim and replace / repair the head gasket will result in the threads being ripped out of the block. In another post, i noticed that the 3 litre i engine has two thermostats, with the second being under the expansion tank, thing is, if the diesel engine has the same, i can't see it being that as it does periodically chug the water down before spouting it all back up again... although it could be stuck in the open position perhaps??? I am in desperate need of a fix on a budget here, so any and all help would be grateful... the mechanic says that the engine management was also unplugged, and having plugged it back in there's about 20 or so faults, however he says most are not worth worrying about and can probably be reset. The mechanic i trust, as i'm a cab driver and he's the guy who keeps my work car on the road, so there's no question of him trying to pull my pants down as it were. i've sent him a screen shot about the SNIFF TEST? which was mentioned in the previous post with the petrol engine that has a similar or identical issue, so i'll speak to him about that tomorrow. In an absolute worst case scenario, what are my options for replacing the engine? by which i mean is there any other BMW diesel engine that would fit into the car... like the 2.5 or the 3 litre v6 or v8 perhaps... Another 3 liter straight six could end up with the same problem......... Any and all help appreciated in advance guys
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Video: NLARGO 🇵🇱 2019 | Audi Rs 6 c6 vs BMW M5 E60 | Forza Horizon 4 Polska DXB | Drag
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Video: The BEST BMW M ENGINE SOUNDS! M5 E60, M3 F80, M4 F82, M6 & More!
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Thanks for your help! New caliper it is then😠
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oh dear! Just as important as winding back a caliper piston is to ensure it is done correctly...e.g. hose clamped so no pressure is going up in the reverse direction into the ABS modulator or Master Cylinder (only takes a few seconds to fit) and then crack the bleed nipple off and twist or push the piston back in....zero pressure required as the bleed nipple is open and also expels the old fluid. Takes about 20 seconds longer and ensures zero damage to the braking system.
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That explains the squeaking noise coming from my rear left brakes as I watched the mechanic push the piston in not screw it! So it's probably knackerd
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Hi Andy....welcome to the Forum If it has an electronic handbrake then the motors will need to be put into service mode to replace the pads and the calipers would still need winding back as well Let us know how you get on with it
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Further to my last post , only remove the trim from the left side as that allows the lower sill to be lifted out.
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Video: 395hp + BMW 1 Series M135i Exhaust Sound with Wagner Tuning Performance
Bimmer Owners Club posted a video in BMW Videos
