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  1. Today
  2. Thanks for reply, tyre’s wheels brakes etc, all good. Will get under it next week to check when back home.
  3. Morning Dino Welcome to the Forum Dave
  4. Last week
  5. Hi Sarah A good alternator should maintain battery voltage between 13.9 and 14.8 volts (14.2 is optimum). Even worst-case, with all accessories turned on, there should be at least 13 volts at the battery. With BMW's I was shown by a BMW Tech to always test/measure at the charge/jump posts under the bonnet. With my Mercedes with the engine off and after about half an hour the battery drain would begin, I measured a current present at the voltage regulator. I brought a new regulator and then while testing the old one on the bench found the failed diode (works like a one way valve) A Voltage regulator is fairly simple to change and not as expensive as an alternator. There are quite a few Auto Electricians who say if alternator voltage is below 13.7v change the alternator Not easy to diagnose by remote control, so hope this helps Dave
  6. Morning Paul I use a black leather polish (like shoe polish) from Scratch Doctor, The side bolster was grey with wear so I tried using a leather dye but I have to say ended up taking the seat out so I could do the whole thing to ensure an even colour match I was happy with. Then did the other front seat as to me it didn't quite match 🀣 One of my sons said "you have OCD Dad" it looked OK and you don't have eyes in your bum !! 🀣 Dave
  7. If you can;t set the memory something is off, either wrong unit or it's failing With the chap I helped the unit fitted had 2 connectors (1 large 1 small) the cars loom had 3 connectors. When he got the right part they all fitted With regard to the mirrors there are several reasons that they may not work, not all E53 X5;s had them fitted you can check using a BMW Vin decoder to see what was ordered at Build or just pop off the cover to see if there is a motor and limit switch fitted worth checking. Tip, get a good set of trim removal tools plastic retaining clips are easy to break. Also do you have the fold button beside the mirror adjustor Dave
  8. Hi Malcolm Welcome to the Forum Look at www.realoem.com Classic section put the last 7 digits of your Vin into the search box it will bring up your model. Then search the sections for the part you need, when you have the Part Number if you double click the part number it will show a list of alternate parts (if available) and other models that the part was used in (if any) Then BMW have a Classic section and still have spares or the Google the BMW Specialist Recyclers Also talk to guys like BBA Reman, Cartronix or ECU testing they repair all sorts of electrical stuff and may help Hope this is useful Dave
  9. Morning Chantelle Welcome to the Forum A diagnostic scan is needed to find the cause or everyone is guessing. It could be a flaky fuel pump relay or starter relay, it could be a key malfunction, or ignition switch issue? Dave
  10. Then money well spent I would Google search for the nearest BMW Specialist (if you haven't already) as those guys will have the kit to fit everything for you or if you fit it all yourself they will have INPA/ISTA software to code it in for you. Also worth googling BMW Dismantlers (I have found Quarry Motors good) and contact them for the mud flaps Sounds like you have a real beast ENJOY Dave
  11. Morning Gary Welcome to the Forum Everyday is a school day I guess that you are suffering a lack of performance, but what convinced you that the turbos have failed? Before shelling out your hard earned cash on new/refurbished Turbo's is the rest of the engine in good condition? Compression good on all 6 cylinders, injectors in good conditioThn, fuel pressure correct, Oil pump oil, feeds and returns clear, all vacuum lines in good condition. (Teaching Granny to Suck Eggs time) Assuming it is then the turbo chargers are designed to increase the amount of air/fuel mix by forcing it in (compressing it) beyond normal atmospheric pressure) more fuel/air = bigger bang = more power that;s the theory There are two sides to the turbo Exhaust side has a number of Vanes/Fins hot gas from the exhaust manifold moves over them making them spin. More engine revs more gas the faster they go. The exhaust turbine is on a common shaft that at its other end has another turbine with a set of Vanes/Fins as these are being spun at the same speed as the exhaust turbine they draw air in through the air filter forcing it through the intercooler to reduce it's temperature (cooler air is denser a denser fuel/air mix = better performance. Today we can get turbo's with refined Vane technology/design or increased turbine size or number of blades. The theory being they spin up faster and give better performance. There are also Turbo's with variable vane technology (the vane/blade angle can be changed) to give boost from lower revs spreading performance across the rev range. Schools out If you haven't already get a competent mechanic to check the Turbo's and their operation as turbo actuators and their associated pipework can often be the cause of folks thinking the Turbo is gone. When your Googling check the Register of BMW Specialists these are Garages normally run by BMW trained technicians these guys will have the knowledge, tools and software to fix your car. A few websites to help with School if you are not aware already (1) www.realoem.com this is a BMW online parts list, put the last 7 digits of your Vin into the search box it will bring up your model. Then search the sections for what you need, very useful when buying parts and making sure they fit. (2) An American site so the steering wheel is on the wrong side 🀣 www.pelicanparts.com their articles section has comprehensive "How Too's" with pictures that will help understand what is involved in many tasks they also give indicative times for tasks that even if you are paying a garage for its helpful to know whats going on (well I like to know) Hope this is helpful Dave
  12. Original floor mats (still unopened in package) for sale (beige color) - 2014 BMW 320i 4D SED XDRIV - $80 or best offer.
  13. Original floor mats (still unopened in package) for sale - beige color - 2014 BMW 320i 4D SED XDRIV - $80 or best offer.
  14. Earlier
  15. Thank you, will check them out. Bill
  16. Morning Ian Welcome to the Forum My brother inlaw used the BMW UK website for help connecting his apparently they have some how to Vids (Never bothered me for 2 reasons (1) car is to old, like me(2) Never owned an iPhone) Great car by the way ENJOY Dave
  17. Thanks for that Dave , Appreciate that πŸ‘πŸ» R
  18. Hi Rick I have given some information in your Welcome post, here is some information just taken from www.realoem.com Supersedes: 16111176506 (01/01/1982 β€” 09/04/1986), Exchangeable retrospectively 16111117522 (03/01/1975 β€” 09/09/1983), Exchangeable retrospectively 16111117200 (07/09/1975 β€” 01/14/1976) Part 16111178881 was found on the following vehicles: 5' E12   (02/1972 β€” 07/1981) 5' E28   (06/1980 β€” 08/1990) 6' E24   (10/1975 β€” 04/1989 The Suction Device Supersedes: 16141153234 (11/13/1980 β€” 04/29/1987), Exchangeable retrospectively 16121150480 (09/01/1979 β€” 02/05/1985) Part 16141179424 was found on the following vehicles: 5' E12   (01/1977 β€” 07/1981) 5' E28   (09/1980 β€” 08/1990) 6' E24   (10/1975 β€” 04/1989) The above information will help when talking to either BMW Classic customer support or try some of the BMW Specialist Dismantlers there are several in the UK Dave
  19. Thanks for the suggestions, and the warning about the right side steering. When I get to that section I will remind myself that it will not be necessary to change the car to right side steering to match the photographs.
  20. Hi I'm looking for msport front and rear bumpers and maybe a set of original msport alloys for my newly purchased 2001 e39
  21. Morning Varsha Welcome to the Forum Is this a car leased from a BMW Dealer or leased from another source? Was the car New or a Used low mileage car? Either way I would expect the car to have had a thorough PDI prior to delivery to you which you should have a copy of. I would think there should be something there to indicate imminent replacement? I would ask the supplying garage if they find this reasonable ? I would also ask the Lease Company the same question ? Take advice under the sale of goods act as well Dave
  22. Birdie

    M320d

    Thank you dave, very helpful
  23. Morning Donald Have you checked the loom for damage and the connectors for loose pins. Around the age of your car I read several reports of failed Mechatronc units so a new/rebuilt unit may well be the cure. The trans you are considering may be in similar condition or going that way so ideally a test before buying may help but a used transmission will always be a gamble For me I would get the Mechatronic unit checked and rebuilt by a Trans Specialist (or best by a ZF specialist) What condition was the sump in when you dropped it ? was there much debris were the magnets clean ? If the fluid was changed a few times by the previous owner trying to fix the issue chances are the Torque converter has been flushed fingers crossed they used the correct fluid. BMW at this time stated Transmissions were "Sealed for Life" (BMW speak "life" was the end of their Warranty responsibility) ZF however recommend service every 60k to 80k Good Luck Dave
  24. Hi Henry With the Gearbox I believe that Comfort and Sport effect the suspension and throttle setting while in Eco it just softens the throttle response. So should have no effect on the gearbox or flywheel. (but then I haven't owned a manual for 40+ years) Is there any odd tyre wear (inner edges at the rear) when was the last time the car was 4 wheel aligned? As you have movement in the rear suspension I would suspect the lower rose bush is shot. At 90k it may be the whole rear suspension needs a rebuild Good engineering practice would change both sides. Take a look at www.realoem.com put the last 7 digits of your Vin into the search box it will bring up your model then look at the rear suspension the small exploded drawing should show you where things are and their part numbers then Google the part number to get the best price Hope this helps Dave
  25. Morning James Welcome to the Forum Most of the problems were over a 5 year manufacturing period 2007 to 2012 and mainly diesel engines affected. The issue was stretching timing chains sadly BMW did not deal with it well at first denying there was a problem. If an engine fails repair cost I have seen quoted is between Β£2k and Β£3k. So if it happens a major cost however these engines were used in many models and BMW argue that failures against total in service is fairly low, difficult to assess as many dealt with by BMW were kept in house. BMW supplied modified Chain Tensioners and guides as part of the repair not cheap. Having said that my Brother Inlaw is now on his 5th 5series touring (2x530d 2x535d and the current 540d) the first 3 all in the risk years all run to high mileages due to his business, all BMW serviced but we carried out interim oil changes monthly. My personal belief is modern extended service schedules by all manufacturers don't actually help longevity. He has suffered no timing chain issues, swirl flaps on the early cars an EGR fail on one of the 535d all has been good. Dave
  26. Morning Dylan Welcome to the Forum First did you buy from a Dealer/Garage if so start there if you brought private you may well be on your own. With luck you got it cheap so repairs won't make it uneconomical. First place to start is are you able to DIY or will you be relying on a garage? If in the hands of a Garage factor in labour rates and time off the road. A BMW Specialist will generally be between 1/3rd to 1/2 of a BMW Dealer labour cost, a good Independent Garage around 1/3rd. Next the battery when was it fitted? is it correct for the car?, was it NEW or was it "another" battery? To begin the battery needs testing it should show 12.8v at the charging points under the bonnet engine off anything below indicates a discharged/dying battery. With the engine running you should see 14.5/14.8v tested at the same place which would indicate the charging system is OK. The faults you mention could be sensor issues caused by low voltages or failing sensors a Diagnostic session with a BMW capable code reader would give a better indication and faster diagnosis. Fault 1. Limp Mode could be Throttle body or throttle position sensor or cam position sensor either Diagnostics or test sequence needed. Replace if required Fault 2. Again a sensor issue at one of the wheels or an ABS pump fault test if capable or Diagnostics sensors can be changed the pump (if it is at fault) can be repaired at a reasonable cost. The click you hear could be the starter relay or the solenoid either sticking or just not functioning due to low voltages? Fully charge the battery (use the under bonnet charge points) When fully charged leave the car shut up after 15min the light by the gear lever should go out if it doesn't something is not letting the car shut down check any aftermarket additions (Radio.Bluetooth, Camera etc) After a few hours measure the voltage under the bonnet if it has dropped and the car is asleep suspect the battery Dave
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