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  1. Yesterday
  2. No sorry Jack over my long years of car ownership (started in 1960) my cars have been owned outright or company cars so never had to explore a termination option. I would research it to see if there are any implications that may effect your credit rating though Dave
  3. Morning Mustapha Welcome to the Forum First place is to double check the work that has been done for you to get that many issues either something is not connected or something is wrongly connected would be my guess If someone has cross connected a sensor fingers crossed it hasn't caused damage to the DME Most of your faults are MAF and Valvetronic sensor related so go back over the work very carefully making sure all sensor plugs are connected to the correct sensor and seated correctly Check there are no loose wires or and shorts Not sure what the garage did as changing the coolant system is straight forward Rad, Water pump, Thermostats, and hoses plus the fan. I would be talking to them about why you have so many issues Dave
  4. Last week
  5. Morning Rufas Welcome to the Forum There were a couple of posts about White smoke/vapour at start up after the car had stood for a few days. Sadly no cause or resolution in any follow up posts I have a friend with one and he has had no issues I am aware of Good Luck with the hunt Dave
  6. Morning Karo Welcome to the Forum Where in the world are you based ? The Forum is mainly UK based so we don't want to point you in the wrong direction Some thoughts though, Take a look at www.realoem.com use the Vin in the search box it will call up your model. Once you have the Part number Google it see what comes up. Don't dismiss BMW they have a good Classics section and offer good discounts on older cars. In the UK there is a register of BMW dismantlers who are very knowledgeable and useful Good Hunting Dave
  7. Morning Eddie Never played with a 220d but try 1. Turn on Ignition (press start button 3 times) 2. Press the button on the end of the left stalk for 10/15secs 3. You should now be in Service mode release the button and each press should scroll you through until you get to the service you want 4. When you find what you want press the button for 5/10 secs then release then repeat it should turn green Personally I am not a fan of extended service intervals so change oils and filters annually (around 6k these days) Remember BMW also program in time dependent service Points. Brake Fluid, Inspections etc. Hope it works for your motor Dave
  8. Top Man Great information and a successful fix Thanks Dave
  9. Morning Vincent Welcome to the Forum You say the shaking/vibration is in the steering wheel, is this at standstill engine running or engine running and when you turn the wheel ? I would get under the car and have an assistant (Grand children are really useful) turn the wheel while I put a hand on the steering rack and arms. Any vibration should be felt. Then check the steering column in the engine bay for anything touching it that could transfer vibration from the engine to the column. I would check the engine mounts and gearbox mounts just in case Good Luck in finding the culprit Dave
  10. Morning Vasek Welcome to the Forum Under the bonnet check with a multi meter for power at the charging points then check all fuses. In the boot check battery connections and battery out put, the fact that it is only a year doesn't mean it cant die. Dave
  11. Hi John Welcome to the Forum That is a crazy price I have a friend who runs a 2007 760Li (Chauffer)but the N74 engine and last year we changed both sensors and from memory they were around £60 each I think I would talk to Bosch UK and see if they have an alternate I take it you have Googled the part to see what prices come up Good Luck Dave
  12. If the engine is running so is the power steering pump it has no electrical connection. Unless the electrical problem cuts the engine? So as the wipers, washers, horn are all on the steering column I would start there if you are not very DIY skilled you may well need the help of someone who is. The steering wheel and plastic covers need taking off to inspect the slip ring and clock spring at the top of the column to make sure it is in good condition. If it is worn and catching that could be your problem also take time to check the loom and connections to the wiper stalk and clock spring and ignition switch. If something is catching as you turn the wheel that could make you think the power steering is not working. There is also a double Universal joint at the end of the steering column in the engine bay they have been known to stiffen up, sometimes lubrication helps sometimes they need replacing. Dave
  13. Morning Pook Welcome to the Forum As your BMW X5 is 2006 I take it is E53 model ? If it is then it runs on I-bus the original posters car would run K-bus or higher, your power steering should be hydraulic not electric. A fairly common failure with the E53 was the Footwell Control Module a Diagnostic scan should tell for sure. A word of caution BMW will tell you they are the ONLY ones who can change it (if it is the fault) so will many BMW Specialists. They are wrong the auction sites and BMW specialist dismantlers will sell a replacement FCM all it needs is registering to your car to prevent a tamper dot beside your mileage everything will work even with the dot. Dave
  14. Morning Steve Welcome to the Forum Received the new Actuator late yesterday and this morning been out side taking the old one off and swapping them The original actuator on my door has failed internally the double lock mechanism sticking and not allowing the internal or external handle to work or the physical key. If I operated the lock/unlock on the key or the dash I could here the internals work but the double lock just wouldn't release. As the unit is sealed in a plastic body repair is virtually impossible and pretty much pointless. As I would have to cut open the actuator to get to the internals so failure is mechanical all electrics OK is my guess The replacement I have is Febi and a straight replacement, cost was £64. The door handle Bowden cable was very sticky with grease so I removed the outer handle and mechanism gave everything a good clean re-lube and put it all back All working as it should again just have the job of cleaning all the trim and putting it back together now 😁 Hope This Helps Dave
  15. Morning Rob By your model I think you may be in the USA All I can say is in the UK we have several companies who are very good at repair and even upgrading CCC units. Are you sure it's the CCC and not the screen ? I am sure there must be some specialist repairers not to far from you try a Google search Dave
  16. Earlier
  17. I use Castrol Edge or Magnatec fully synthetic Mann Filter changed annually (about 7 or 8k these days) Dave
  18. Morning David Welcome to the Forum Is the Black connector attached to some thing or free ? You need a search for a wiring diagram they could be Bus wires for an amp but that is a guess Sorry not much help Dave
  19. Hi, my 318 2.0l petrol does exactly the same thing, I’ve had it checked by a plug in tester an there’s no code there! so I’m having the pressure sensor changed. the engine wa rebuilt less than 3000 miles ago due to a recall that had all the timing chain replaced with all associated parts. They didn’t want to release it until it was perfect and then a couple of hundred miles later it started again. There’s no noise when the message goes off so I know there’s plenty of oil. It’s only when I come off the revs I don’t drive hard so literally a 30 mph drive for 8 miles and stop does it!! I keep the car covered in cotton wool. It’s a 2010 model with 64000 miles just spent £400 on rear tyres as it was a mot advisory only I’m going to try the 5w 40 though it’s got 5w 30 in at present thanks Ian
  20. Best Option put them in the Sale section
  21. Morning Dave Welcome to the Forum You were almost there 🤣 What will happen when the car has AI 🤣 Press the start button 3 times (no foot on brake) Then press and hold the left stalk button for about 15 secs to enter service mode. pressing the stalk button should scroll through the different modes. As for the best OBD scanner I have BMW INPA/ISTA which gives Dealer level access (though BMW are trying hard to stop it's use) but there are several others these days iCarsoft, AutoLogigic, Foxwell are a few I have seen in use Good Luck Dave
  22. Welcome to the Forum Very nice Michael but we are a UK based Forum so I doubt you will get much response Good Luck with the Sale Dave
  23. OK, further installment. Many thanks to Greydog for the input. Non cranking has been getting worse and I ordered the BMW part to replace the defective relay as noted above. It was located exactly where you said it was but....... When you open the flap to access the fuses box area at the back of the glove box you first need to lift out the raised plate that sits on the glove box tray to the rear of the glove box. This allows said flap to fully lower. I had a little play and found a press/pull up slat on the back side of said plate, located exactly in the middle. This releases the plate and allows the fuse box flap to lower fully providing access. Changing the relays is just a pull out/press in fitting. There are two lugs on the sides of the relay, one lower and one higher, which correspond to the guides in the fuse box itself so you cant put it in the wrong way around. Typical BMW........... Car started straight away and I am hoping that is the matter sorted. A £16.85 fix and a bit of research to boot. This really is a very good forum to be part of.
  24. Welcome to the Forum Jae ENJOY your Beemer Dave
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