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Morning John Welcome to the Forum Don't ignore suspension bushes I spend quite a lot of time driving on farm tracks during the shooting season. I have learned from experience that suspension bushes last around 80k max, they then start to become hard or worse start to break up. I change the bushes between 60/80k front and rear, shocks at 100/150k. The 4.4 and my current E70 are springs front air rear the 4.6 was air all round. The 4.4 ran 19" staggered wheels the 4.6is and E70 both run 20" staggered sets (still got a spare set of type 87 4.6is wheels in the shed) The E70 I changed the bushes front and rear at 75k (I have a home made bearing press uses a bottle jack) BMW in their wisdom fitted a pair of sponge/fibre pads above and below the front top mounts after changing the bushes and still having clunky suspension I investigated these and found one side completly disintergrated the other side looking really thin. I changed just the upper set and wow what a difference Changing bushes there are complete kits available (Arms and Bushes) for ront and rear which are not that expensive obviously bushes alone are cheaper but you do need a press. Tip I learned that the rear on the 4.6 bolts were so rusted it was qicker to buy new a cut the old ones off. Did the same with the E70 while your in there change the Rose Joint bottom of the rear hub and get a 4 wheel alignment done Hope this helps Dave

Hi Dave Many thanks for your comments there -- very much appreciated. That's a good point you raise there. As far as I am aware, all the records on the car are indeed help both centrally (BMW server-side) and locally (vehicle and fob side). I might just double-check that though -- preferably with my local independent specialist -- at the next opportunity! All the best.

Sorry @Greydog, I've seen other people advertising personal registration numbers on here before so I thought that it was okay to do so.

Morning Kyle Welcome to the Forum First it may sound daft but does it have Sat Nav installed ? you can check using a Vin Decoder to get the original build sheet. If the car has Navigation it should be selectable in iDrive. If the car has Car Play or Android Auto enabled the previous owner may have preffered that route for Navigation (my Daughter uses Carplay) Dave

Thank you lads!

Thanks Dave, I'll keep you posted Paneuro.

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Sounds like you've not had much luck! When you say the crank has been replaced, I assume you mean crank pulley?? They're a vibration damper and not unknown to fail. Why the garage didn't listen to you when you said the clutch felt odd I do not know! Perhaps the EML is on due to Pre/Post cat sensors not tying up due to exhaust leak?

Yes the crank pulley and belt, because the car was shaking and couldn’t find a misfire they said that was the problem. I think at this point they are fed up of seeing me in the garage which is a little meh, also feeling like every time I leave I leave with another problem. I considered taking it to a BMW garage as there is one local to me, I just don’t want to keep throwing money at it and obviously costs at BMW are largely greater than my usual place. With it having a new EGR valve and cooler, the second garage cleaning the pipes/system I expected that it would have recovered from this EML issue. Since the new loudness mainly when EML is illuminated I wondered if maybe that could indicate where the problem lies. Maybe I need to allow her to go, I fear she’s trying to give up the ghost! 👎🏻

The correct coolant or even a waterless coolant is the only way to prevent corrosion inside the engine. Distilled water will not stop corrosion and it freezes at the same point as ordinary tap water, unless it is mixed with the correct ratio of coolant as recommended by the manufacturer. Companies like Ford, GM, Mercedes, Chrysler, BMW, VW Audi and many others have been doing this a long time and spend $£m on research to make their product reliable, or are they all wrong. An incorrect coolant can and will react with gaskets, seals, and the disparate metals used in the engine Copper, Aluminium, Magnesium, Cast Iron, and Steel. I also have a 2 car garage but my wifes car is in there plus my tools (saves her scraping the ice off, happy wife happy life) In the early 1960's water and no Coolant cost me a cracked engine block when it froze, so I too learned a long time ago. I have also repaired damage for friends and family so I am afraid we will always disagree on this Dave

Morning Darren From the sound of things you may have found a bargain. Good luck with the purchase Dave

Morning Symptoms could point towards the Footwell Control Module or it's Earth point Dave

According to www.realoem.com the part is 06 Positive battery lead 1 61126929715 Looking at the drawing it connects between the power lead right connection in your Photo and the main power distribution on top of the battery arrowed in your photo Dave

Ochtend Frank Welkom op het forum Uw probleem kan van alles zijn, van een defecte/defecte lamp tot een bijna lege batterij, een diagnostische scan zal het vertellen Zoek een BMW Specialist om de kosten op een redelijk niveau te houden Succes Dave

Morning Darren Welcome to the Forum To be fair we don't see to many Mini questions which actually points to them being pretty reliable Get a good BMW/Mini capable Diagnostic reader they are well worth it BMW INPA/ISTA is best obviously as it gives dealer level access plus Workshop Information and many other functions. There are several alternatives these days iCarsoft, Autoligic, Foxwell are a few others www.realoem.com is an online Parts List if you enter the last seven digits of your Vin into the search box it will call up your model then search the sections for what you need. Having the correct part number means what ever you buy will fit (obviously) but also allows a good search for best prices. There is also a Register of BMW Specialists in case a Garage is needed and a Register of BMW Specialist recyclers Normal buying rules apply Condition, History, History and History make sure everything works I mean everything if all good then I hope you enjoy your Mini Dave

Morning Paul realoem no help ? Dave

I can't add anything here as I have rarely left any of my cars for extended periods, and when I have I use my Ctec with a plug timer set to come on 12hrs before my return. We used a solar charger on the Horse Lorry for a while but it was never really successful (that was quite a few years back though) Dave

Hi Kevin Best of luck negitiating with the Chancellor 🤣 we have all been there 🤣 A good possibility the mirror may have been changed, my brother inlaw had a guy on a bike catch his shoulder bag strap on his nearside mirror, his car was stopped in traffic cyclist passing on the nearside at pace tore the mirror almost off. By the time he got out of the car the guy on the bike was gone !! BMW ordered a complete replacement Mirror you don't want to go that route Dave

Morning John You tried hard and it didn't work so ENJOY your (new to you) Merc Dave

Hi Stewart Welcome to the Forum Rather than try an additive which increases viscosity I think I would have changed the Oil Pressure switch first. Then maybe the Pressure relief valve on the oil pump needs invetigating, after all oil is the life blood on your car. Fingers crossed it is a genuine fix for you remember you can use higher viscosity oils 5-40 instead of 5-30 Dave

That is very interesting. I have not seen or heard of this, maybe it is relatively unknown in the US? Thank you very much for the very good information, JayMe

Hi David Welcome to the Forum A Vin decoder is a useful tool as it lets you know what was on the original cars build sheet but that only tells you what toys it should have. As its a 2021 car it will have had one MOT which hopefully is clear of any advisories, you can check recall and MOT at www.gov.uk/check-mot-history Next check all tyres are correct and in good condition odd or mismatched tyres can cause havoc with Transfer cases Transmissions and diffs. The rest is History History History plus making sure everything works as it should Good Luck Dave

Hi Dave, Great, very helpful. Many thanks.