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The bottom bolts on the rear shock absorbers aren’t tightening up, as I had to use an impact gun to remove them. Can I use a helicoil kit or a timesert to restore the threads? I’ve bought some Chinese arms just in case, but a little dubious as to putting them on, and genuine replacements are going on 2k. Tried eBay, but no luck.

Nice job! I know I would probably get one wheel sorted and then the rest would have to wait and probably never get sorted :-)

Morning Abhi Welcome to the Forum I have read of N55 engines having an appetite for oil but the only experience I have is my next door neighbour who runs a 335i touring he covers around 8k miles a year car is 5 and uses very little oil between annual services. I know because I help him service his car at home You say the owner said the car was serviced around 1000km ago is there any proof receipts stamped service book etc? Also was the correct Synthetic LL04 oil used ? I would start by giving the car a service or at a minimum an oil and filter change using the correct Oil and Filter. I believe your car should hold 6.5ltr's of 5-30 Fully Synthetic LL04 make certain the filter is OEM quality (Mann are OEM suppliers) Remember either buy 7 x 1 liter bottles (my preference) if getting a 5 litre container and 2 x 1 litre check what quantity is actually in the big container many are 4.5litre. Add at least 5liters and run the engine let it settle and check for leaks and level then top up. Then note the Mileage/Kilometers and your in a good place to check usage Good Luck Dave

Hi Sam Welcome to the Forum A healthy battery should show 12.5v+, 12.2 v shows its down a bit 70/80% 10 v shows depleted which indicates very high amps being drawn at start You can check the starter with a clamp ammeter on the starter cable I have seen failing starters draw 700+Amps It's good advice to check the earth straps as they can fail even if it looks OK if its hot/warm after and attempted start it's worth at least removing cleaning and reseating it obviously any sign of damage change it Check www.realoem.com if you aren't aware put the last 7 digits of your vin into the search engine it will call up your model then check the sections for what you need (I would guess engine electrical section) Good Hunting Dave

Morning Vivek Welcome to the Forum Not sure what your problem is exactly, the inner door handle mechanism ? The inner door handle cable ? Outer Door handle mechanism or cable ? Or the Door latch mechanism ? Take a look at www.realoem.com put the last 7 digits of your Vin into the search box it will call up your model. Then check the sections for what you need, Part numbers may differ depending on trim level When taking off the inner door panel take care not to damage the inner water membrane a heat gun or hair dryer will soften the adhesive and make it easier Hope this helps Dave

I remove mine in the spring and autumn and use Meguiars Wheel Cleaner, then wash them down and give them a good coating of a decent wax (usually meguiars). This for me at least achieves two things (used to be three, wheel rotation so they wear evenly - can't do it as now on staggered set up) it allows me to check pads, discs and tyres, and makes the wheels really easy to clean when on the car (I tend to avoid the wheel cleaner when the wheels are on the car, as it will remove the wax) I am tempted to try a ceramic or graphene coating on them to see if that lasts longer, but the price keeps putting me off, or at least I don't have the money at the time when I'm taking them off to clean. You probably will get a lot of brake dust to start with as they are new brakes and need to bed in.

Thanks for the Update Your car definitely has 2 Temp Sensors the first at the Thermostat housing and the second in the Bottom hose close to the rad. The Electrical connections normally have a push spring clip release as I remember, the sensors are screw fit Check www.realoem.com if you are not aware it's an Online BMW parts list for correct part numbers then the small exploded drawings will help with location. If you need help you could also try Pelican Parts website they have some great how too's with pictures. Dave

We picked up the car yesterday and started the Lemon Law buy-back process with BMW North America at the recommendation of the sales manager. I told him we are ready to go all-electric and would like to basically swap out for an iX3(?). We shall see.

Hi Indroneel Welcome to the Forum First if it is the ABS Harness I would check www.realoem.com (BMW Parts List) put the last 7 digits of your Vin into the search box it should call up your model. Then check the car electrical system section to see if there is a Repair Harness If there is the next trick will be finding one, I would try BMW Specialist dismantlers. If no joy then stripping the harness on the car to find the extent of the damage and what caused it then splicing in cable sections and re wrapping the loom will work. In the UK there are specialist companies who will repair damaged ABS units in case that is the problem Good Luck with the fix great cars when going well Dave

Hi Dave, thx mate, it was a heavy loss, but now I'm free to travel. I think after research, my pricing is pretty much spot on. I need to edit the post to say worse case on the battery drain is the capacitors in the General Module. It's a figure I'm happy with, and once sorted out there's enough meat on the bone for whoever buys it. I'm not attached to it, I wanted one, got one, so box ticked. Best wishes Scott

I didn't mention it tbh as thought of a new battery on top of a major service bill wasn't appealing. I generally just run the car on eco locally but am confused if the stop start works on any other drive setting?? Today it decided not to work at all during a 100 mile round trip. No warning lights or anything. I think I can live with it for now tbh, more irritating than anything. Thanks tho

I opted for the S Drive diesel, fuel economy from what I’ve driven so far is very good, only had mine for 10 days, moved over from an Audi.

I know right! I was shocked how much I had to pay to get it all done, but I really struggled to find anywhere to do the work which is crazy. No one would touch it because of the battery. Thankfully they provide a 12 month warranty on the repairs. Yehhh I thought the same about the software update too. Surely it's not 3hrs of intense labour🤣 Thanks pal - I'm super happy I got it back finally, but I will be honest.. I have lost quite a bit of faith in the motor now for long drives, so I'm going to be trading it in.

I'll say £3-4k

Hi Windil Welcome to the Forum I have only seen that code once quite a few years back it is Transmission specific and points towards the internal speed sensor in the box Before doing any major stripping check the loom connection at the box make sure it is seated and sealed correctly with luck just cleaning and reseating will do the job. If not then the internal speed sensor may have failed. Dave

Morning Claire Welcome to the Forum From your description it would seem the Actuator is sticking/dying you do need the door open to change it though Dave

THANKING you Dave will have look at that ... MUCH appreciate your reply and clear practical advice

You and me both mate, the car does start. Apart from last week when I had to get the AA out. The AA man stated it was either battery or a lazy starter. I read up online that a discharged battery can give similar issues that are misdiagnosed as a starter issue, which prompted me to buy a battery tester. This then showed the connected battery as low. I therefore went out and bought a new battery that tested full before connecting to the car. Out of pure curiosity I tested the old battery when disconnected, which then showed as full, same with new, low when connected, full when not. it’s not only confusing, it’s extremely frustrating, thankfully the battery had a 60 day money back guarantee, so did manage to get my money back. The car has been fine since the problem resulting in the AA attending. But it has been in regular use again. I am away with work again next week for a full 6 days, so will see what happens when I return and report back Thank you for you help Dave, it is really appreciated 😁

Hi Jeffrey Welcome to the Forum BMW do not release them all the Dealer does is change the complete diff then retain the old one so there is little on the market. Having said that I did get a rebuild kit for my E53 4.6is from Bimmertune they were also helpful with pre-load settings and torques may be do a search see if they are still around Check www.realoem.com to make sure you get the correct kit my E70 rear diff has two different fluids Hope this is some help Dave

First check the solenoid is getting power (test lamp or multi meter) if it is you will need to remove the starter in order to bench test it On the bench make sure the pinion gear is free and moving in its slides you will need a spare battery to test the motor (make sure it's secure in a bench vise. Connect positive to the solenoid and touch the negative lead to the starter body it should spin if not then it looks like a new starter Dave

Morning Malachy Welcome to the Forum I did read somewhere the boot release is behind the rear seat back, tip the seat back forward and check there Hope this helps Dave

Hi Billy The CCC home screen looks like this The CiC home screen like this Hope this helps Dave

Dave is correct - it is a legal requirement However......Range Rover has a screen where the driver can watch SatNav, etc whilst on the very same screen the passenger can be watching a movie - very strange concept indeed !

@Rixy_1409 I have to say, from what Dave has already touched on, did the mechanic scan the vehicle to look for some sort of guidance on what could be the issue? To me, it looks and sounds more like a battery issue as the instrument panel drops out when turning over but should still register something albeit warning lights, etc. Has it had a new battery recently?

Morning Alistair Welcome to the Forum A Diagnostic scan a full service and inspection by a Garage that understands BMW's. BMW Dealers can be very expensive so I would look for a Local BMW Specialist (there is a register online) Good luck with the recommissioning Dave