Greydog

Hi Paul Welcome to the For Looking at the message I assume either the alternator has malfunctioned or the drive belt has gone What happened? Dave

Hi Dave Welcome to the Forum Check www.realoem.com put the last 7 digits of your Vin into the search box then check the relevant sections to find what you need. There are small exploded drawings that help with location of parts. Dave

Morning Mo Welcome to the Forum That looks like the MRS cable so getting something wrong could fire Seat belt tensioners or Air bags or it could be the IBS trigger lead My instinct here is change the cable to avoid issues you will probably have the airbag lights to reset as its been disconnected. Do you have access to INPA/ISTA you may find wiring diagrams there. Check realoem if you haven't already to see if you can get part numbers that may help I have changed the complete main battery lead on a 1 series where the IBS had been triggered and fired the tensioners but fortunately no airbags so didn't need diagrams just replce parts and reset with INPA Dave

Morning John Welcome to the Forum First is your car LCI or Pre-LCI ? The mounting brackets are different so are they all free, are all sensors ans pipework clear. On my brother inlaws LCI we had to remove the centre silencer to get room to break the gasket seal even with the clamp off it stuck like stuff to a blanket. There are 3 brackets from memory one on top two under neath. Once the gasket ring gave in it could be wriggled out. We replaced it with a refurbished one he brought in Germany the original had covered 150+k the car was 200k + plus when he traded it for his 3rd 535d Touring and that is the only DPF issue he has had Hope this helps Dave

Morning Razvan Welcome to the Forum Can your Dealer service Manager not help ? I can't be much use as I have never been an Apple fan/user sorry Dave

Morning Yes the tax for the bigger engines is higher if I recall my Brother inlaws 530d was £180 (have to check) but with it ECU tuned he had an Estate that could scare the pant's off some serious sports cars (not that he would ever do that !! 🤣) and still return high 40's on a run. So depending on your budget and space needed in the car don't dismiss the 1 series a friend of one of our sons has a 2005 118d 5 door he has a young family (2 children) and a fat Labrador all 5 of them fit comfortably and a roof box takes care of luggage when they go away. If looking at high milers say 150k up then in my experience the poor old gearbox and Diff's tend to be the bit that gets forgotten. Engines get regular oil and filter changes but rarely do people change Gearbox Fluids and filters or Diff oil so check carefully in the paper work for evidence. If you like the car but are unsure about the gearbox and diff suspension etc to DIY I would think around £500 would fund all the parts to service suspension and drive train if using a Garage about £1000 to £1100 so that would be a negotiation point for me. Dave

Morning Larry Welcome to the Forum Check for leaks starting with the Airbags then the pipe work in the Boot the is an air distribution valve that also has an exhaust capability so check all connections and its operation. Dave

Morning Frankie Welcome to the Forum 17 mpg from a 3.0 Jag yikes !! My big fat X5 V8 4.6is averages just under 19 around town mid/high 20's on a run including towing a couple of fat horses in a trailer. As with any used car History History History don't forget MOT history always a good indication of how well looked after the car has been Around 2006/7 BMW moved the timing chain to the rear of the engine (supposedly maintenance free) early engines either failed quickly (in warranty) or some seemed to last it took 4 years for BMW to acknowledge the issue and get on top of it. 2011 onwards cars seem much better. Make sure everything works as it should if it doesn't and the seller gives the old excuses of "you can get that for a few ££ on Ebay" or AC just needs a recharge walk away there are plenty out there. If fixes were that easy why haven't they done it, two answers in my mind 1. they had a quote and it scared them, 2. they just don'y care about their cars. Check the tyres carefully for odd wear an indication of wearing bushes in the suspension. Last thing you need is to be spending your hard earned a few weeks or months after purchase. Fuel wise our son inlaw has a 32d touring on a 65 plate he averages in the 40's with mixed driving and a heavy right foot Don't dismiss the 2.5 and 3.0d engines loads of grunt and still capable of mid 30's around town and high 40's on a run. Plus they will feel as powerful (maybe more so) as your Jag particularly mid range. My brother inlaw is now on hi 4th 5 Touring all have been 3.0d variants he travels a lot and all have gone beyond 200k. His current car 540d xdrive touring with ECU tune is over 400hp and still gives mid 40mpg Last but not least beware of "modified cars" EGR delete DPF delete seem most common just remember that under current MOT regulations if it had these as part of the emissions control at build time an MOT Tester can fail them instantly if they are not fitted now. Dave

Damn the tin worm Have you tried the BMW specialist Dismantlers like Quarry Motors (they have helped me a couple of times) Google BMW Dismantlers there are a number in the UK Is it the Sub Frame or the trailing arm ? May be off the car a specialist Fabricator could help ? We did this with a friends W210 Mercedes Dave An after thought have you talked to BMW UK they have a Classic's section

Hi Margo In simple terms your car has a number of Control units each one is linked by a number of cables and fibre optic leads. These are wrapped together with a protective tape to form a Loom with a connector at each end so it can be plugged in and allow different control units to talk to each other. If the loom is routed badly chaffing rubbing can take place, or the wrong length (to short) so that it and it's cables and connectors are under pressure. That can cause wear where it normally wouldn't occur or connectors to come loose. Hope this helps Dave

That's a function the designers didn't plan on !! Clearly a control unit or connector or the loom needs replacing and repositioning because if they don't the cycle will begin again I fear. Don't let them rest Margo Good Luck Dave

Hi Florian Welcome to the Forum Can you not re-bush the trailing arms lots of Poly Bush kits available, or is the issue rust? Dave

Did you disconnect the under bonnet alarm switch? The car definitely needs a fulls diagnostic scan or you are chasing shadows Dave

Sorry Ossie Welcome to the Forum Dave

Morning Arun Welcome to the Forum As Ossie has pointed out you can open the bonnet and access the Charging points under the bonnet that should allow power to the boot. You should never charge a BMW direct to the Battery terminals (unless it is disconnected as damage can occur due to voltage surge. However I think your issue may be deeper than just a dead battery. You say you changed the ECU ? when you did, did you also change or re-program the EWS to recognise the new ECU ? If not the EWS has probably activated the immobiliser. If you did register the ECU to your chassis and match it to the EWS then reregister the keys with luck it is just the dead battery Dave

Morning Paul Welcome to the Forum I am not aware of anyone who will sell single locking nuts other than possibly a BMW Dismantler there are a number of specialist dismantlers I would check Google Hope this is useful Dave

The problem is the Refurbishment market buys everything that comes onto the market from the garages so you dont see them in the scrap bin any more. Try checking TIS in INPA if you have it for the crank shaft Boss sizes see if they are different. If the 3.0 and 2.0 crank shafts are the same Boss size I believe they both have an 8 bolt mounting so it may give more scope. The 3.0ltr DMF will be heavier though so that may have an effect on the 2.0ltr engine. If my memory serves a company called Scheaffler designed the first DMF's in the late 70's early 80's maybe look for them Dave

Morning Phil Welcome to the Forum If you are not aware take a look at www.realoem.com it's an online BMW parts list put the last 7 digits of your Vin into the search box and it will call up your model the search the section that you need. When you find the part and number double click the part number and you will get a list of alternate part numbers and models compatible parts were used on. For me the preferable route has always been repair where I can so Google BBA Reman or ECU Testing I have used both many times over the years very reliable fast turn around and both warranty their work. Hope this helps Dave

Morning Following your other post Luk from what I read, seem to have cornered the market across so many Marques (never used them personally) since the early 80's all my cars bar 3 have been Auto (2 x Cosworth 1x Lotus Carlton) A lot of BMW specialists (remember they are BMW trained) stick Ridgely to OEM only. But always remember BMW don't make them they buy them in. I purchased some suspension bushes from Febi (1/3rd of BMW cost) 2 of them were in boxes with BMW logo's I guess you have to use the OEM part numbers and check all options for supply though LuK with factories in Hungary and China have been one of the biggest suppliers OEM and Aftermarket for some time As always hope this helps Dave

Morning DW Welcome to the Forum I would think that there would be a difference in static balance between a 4 and a 6 your engine is 4 cylinder M47N or N2. Also the crank spigot for mounting the flywheel to the crank may be different. realoem shows 3 part numbers for your car 565745, 518897, 515192 Hope this helps Dave

Morning Wils Welcome to the Forum Sounds like something rotating. When were the belts pulleys and tensioners etc last checked/changed if your in there changing stuff do the water pump often forgotten but they dont last forever. Good luck with the culprit Dave

😅🤣 Nice job sit back and relax

Whoop Whoop that was good service getting them to you as well Enjoy Dave PS if your missing cleaning I have an X5 that needs a scrub up 🤣

BMW wiring designers like common earth points, I had a lot of strange intermittent issues with my 4.4 turned out to be one of the earth points in the boot. Took it off then cleaned and remounted it with electrical contact paste everything cleared. I worked my way through all the main earth points just in case. Also when you have been doing stuff you may have moved a loom ? Dave

Morning Martin Welcome to the Forum Could be the fuel pressure sensor, take the engine acoustic cover off on the passenger side of the engine is the inlet manifold plenum. At the back of the plenum you will see a sensor and plug, unplug it if the engine now runs freely through the revs the sensor is probably your issue. If not then a scan is needed to determine just what it is. Dave