Greydog

Hi Nick Welcome to the Forum The Drivers Door Module is the master for all windows plus mirrors simple to change as it is plug and play First make sure of the part number, use www.realoem.com put the last 7 digits of your Vin into the search box then search the Trim section for the drivers door module. Once you have the Part number carry out an Internet search for the best price. Good Luck Dave

Morning James Welcome to the Forum Actually the main culprit tends to be Injector 5 water collects in the scuttle plastic shields and drips down right above number 5 causes a short in the Piezo ignitor, it starts intermittent but will soon fail completely. I found the fault using my Diagnostics in live data. No fault in memory or recorded while ticking over, fault recorded when driving and engine cut out. As I had some Glowplug faults and to carry out the work the Inlet manifold has to come off I made the decision to replace everything Injectors Glowplugs and Glowplug controller. I didn't fancy taking it apart changing No 5 injector then having to repeat the exercise if another followed suit So 30k covered since work carried out and all running well You say you have been at 3 garages what Diagnostics did they use ? As said a few others have changed just the faulty Injector and been OK. If changing an Injector it will need registering to your car so you will need a BMW friendly Diagnostic program to do that, not difficult to do. Dave

Micheal You have some progress you have the correct diagnostic Your first screen shot shows there are faults with 4 control modules two critical ones are the FEM and DDE they need sorting first when they are being seen and communicating (show as Green) Second screen shot shows there are a load of Fault codes associated with door controls The Drivers Door Module is the master? As I have said the program will show you where they are you need to fix them the program can't do it for you. The two Power Relays RL15 and RL30 need investigating one is in the Front fuse board the other in the Rear fuse board one or both may need changing plus remember the cars battery will need charging any deviation (loss of Volts) and you will see false error codes. Once you have the FEM and DDE operating correctly then you should be able to fully sync the key and start the car (or at least get it to turn over) Try restarting the FEM and DDE see if they will talk to each other Dave

Hi Dan With my E70 I fitted an Android Screen, two reasons (a) the OEM screen had missing pixels (b) the Nav system was way way out of date cost was around the same as a Nav upgrade from BMW ? I am very happy with it. It allows Android Auto/CarPlay and Mirroring plus a better range of Nav programs from Google Maps, Wayz (free) to Tom Tom. Then of course there are all the other Apps while I still have all the original BMW system available if I want it selectable through i Drive My neighbour uses an MMI box in his 3 series and it works really well So I guess it is your choice Dave

Hi Dan Welcome to the Forum Dave

Morning Carole Check the 2 series posts on here regarding early Gearbox issues also check the Internet. BMW used Aisin Warner boxes in the 2 series and there have been a number of catastrophic fails recorded here ! Beware BMW also in the early/mid 2000's redeveloped the 4 cylinder engines there were a number of well publicised timing chain fails (even made Angela Ripon's program on TV) also a number of Fuel pump fails either problem resulting in Dealers recommending a new engine £££££ Remember like most Dealerships BMW don't repair anything they change complete parts/units If looking at 4 cylinder engines the N20, N26, were affected so service history is vital plus any invoices that show whether the timing chain has be replaced. In the same period BMW introduced changes in their 6 cylinder engines N52, N54, N55, and B58 were affected so also need careful vetting. Any noises rattles, misfires walkaway Dave

Morning Carole Welcome to the Forum We started our Volvo period in the early 80's when I had a business it began with a Volvo 760 Estate room for the dogs at weekends and great Motorway car that was followed by a 960 Estate then in the 90's 850 T5 850R V70 T5's and V70 T6 all petrol gave reasonable economy loads of go and very reliable. Late 90's I moved to Mercedes owned 2 AMG E55 Estates and an AMG CLS 63 Then 2002 after selling our Horse Lorry (wife is a rider still) I brought my first BMW X5 E53 4.4V8 to tow a Horse Box and be a reliable everyday car for Business and Pleasure that was followed by an X5 E53 4.6 V8 and the current daily drive is an X5 E70 3.0d brought with 48k on the clock currently at 135k During the early 2000's many Manufacturers were selling Extended service periods as the norm often 30k+ which I have never agreed with. BMW at one point were even telling buyers that the Gearbox was "Sealed for Life" that translated as around 3 years/60k miles end of Warranty responsibility. Mid 2000's there were a whole rash of failures Gearbox, timing chain (mainly 4 cylinder models) which in my opinion were caused by the extended service periods. I have always serviced my own cars every 5k engine oil and filters 80/100k Gearbox and Diffs as my cars are outside Warranty the Dealer never sees my £££ 🤣 As said I have X5 due to its (a) 4x4 (b) Towing ability (c ) Space inside for people and Dogs (d) reliability and reasonable running cost and oh performance (I love a car with some go) BMW produce probably the best straight six engine in the world great power and reliability in either Petrol/Diesel flavours they will mainly have a ZF automatic attached ( serviced properly tough as old boots) M sport models will probably have paddle shift as well (but check specs) Depending on your space requirement a 330i or 330d with a good trim level is a great car comfortable quick and quiet a 330i should give high 20's around town 40+ on a run 330d early 30's around town 50 on a run. Check general condition and tyre wear plus evidence of regular servicing (receipts invoices etc) Suspension bushes need checking if there is signs of odd tyre wear Hope this Helps Good Luck with the Hunt Dave

Hi Kevin I would agree on the tyre pressures my E70 is recommended 32 psi front 36 psi rear if I run these pressures I get shoulder wear at the front so I run 36 at the front 40 rear and check weekly. Cold weather lowers pressure so the darker months are where most folks suffer wear Dave

Well done Micheal we will make a BMW geek out of you 🤣 In ISTA you will have WIS (workshop Information System) it will explain how to do jobs pictures and words. Hopefully your Copy will have ISTA D (Diagnostic) and ISTA P (Program) ISTA is a big program so give it time to load fully then go slow it takes a bit of getting used to Any questions shout Dave

Morning James Welcome to the Forum If you are positive it isn't Belts Pulley's or Tensioners check all Vacuum Lines to the Turbo plus the Intercooler Hoses I had a Volvo T5 that had a split intercooler hose that made a similar noise Good Luck Dave

Hi Lew Welcome to the Forum As you have Dealer cover get them to sort it but my guess is either car wash damage or a faulty OEM part and the open pipe leaking acts like a siphon and will empty the washer reservoir eventually Dave

Hi Rixy Welcome to the Forum Can the engine be turned over by hand ?? You may have to get under neath and remove the front under tray to get a socket on the crank shaft bolt. If the engine turns by hand it probably isn't seized, if it wont turn by hand and oil has got into the induction it may have hydraulically locked the engine not good The mechanic that came out did he use any diagnostic software ? Fingers Crossed Dave

Morning Micheal At last some information so lets examine it and try to make sense of it First there are 5 main faults 1 Gateway Module as it's name implies if there is a major issue here it stops communication with other control units 2. Front Electronic control module possibly related to the Gateway fault 3, Roof Module as 2 4, Rear Electronic module as 2 You are not showing the 5th fault but I would guess it's comm's related. You need to investigate the cause of the Gateway module issues your last screen shot indicates Fault 801C20 Memory full I would investigate and note all fault codes many will be repeated I would think. Once all codes are noted Clear the memory the permanent fault will reoccur that is the one that needs fixing first Other Codes 030020 is related to the Drivers Door control Module 804180 is related to the BDC and will prevent starting (Battery and Key) 804181 is related to Parking Lamps 804182 is related to Headlamps 804184 is related to DRL's 804185 is related to Parking lamps 804186 is related to two things (a) your Bi-Xenon lights (b) your Transmission The cause of these codes needs finding and fixing and clearing before you have a chance of properly coding the Key If the Gateway module needs recoding it may need BMW Dealer or someone with access to their systems to help Dave

Morning John As it is illegal to watch while driving in the UK, BMW I believe have software in place to stop it being seen on the front screen Dave

Morning Micheal The Key is not programmed ??? You know that ! Either there is a problem with your car (Diagnostics) Or a problem with the Key As I have already stated you may need a BMW supplied key

Hi Mike How frustrating, my neighbour uses a USB dongle he brought from Ebay he has a 2010 3 series and he uses his for Carplay (Interesting the Dealer told him it wouldn't work as his car was to old) I will ask him how it works this evening just out of interest Dave

Hi Micheal iCarsoft V3, Foxwell,, Autologic, all have Diagnostic scanners or you could look for a Copy of ISTA/INPA or a good independent Garage or Auto Electrician may be able to help. With Diagnostics you would be looking for issues with the CAS, EWS, primarily. Diagnostics will also give you a list of all faults Existing and History which should help get to the bottom of the problem. Don't just clear faults that doesn't fix them it just hides the issue take screen shots so that you can go back over them Go online and search for a Fuse Layout for your car, that should help any fuses to do with the CAS (Comfort Access system) Starter Relay and Fuses or Fuel Pump Relay and Fuses are a starting point. You still have to get the Key working before you can start the car you have already seen the message from the car telling you it does not recognise the key/remote. You may not like it but you may have to go to a BMW Dealer with the V5 and they can order a Key from the factory that will match your cars immobiliser that should then be easy to program to the car. Dave

Hi Micheal First ensure the battery is fully charged. Next get into the car all doors windows bonnet and boot closed then you can program the key. Hold the key to the column (Do not touch the Start button) 10 secs, then hold down the Unlock button while pressing the lock button 3 times, when you release the unlock button the car should lock and unlock it's self you remain in the car all the time. If the car does not Lock/Unlock the Key is not programmed. If the key can't be programmed then you need a Diagnostic Scan to check what is wrong It is a worry if a jump pack was connected at the battery while it was still on the car as that can cause electrical damage due to power surge. Fingers Crossed. As already said check all fuses plus the Fuel pump relay and Starter Relay Dave

Morning Micheal Putting a new battery on the car is step 1. Step 2 Your Key is not programmed correctly so will not work, why keep trying it ?? So now the Key needs to go through the programming and syncing process . If the key will not program then a Diagnostic session is needed to check the cars systems, if the car is OK then the issue is with the Key. So start again make sure your new battery is fully charged (check the voltage at the charge points under the bonnet) it should be 12.5v minimum. If the battery is OK get into the car all doors and windows closed, hold the key against the key symbol on the steering column dash lights should come on (Do Not push the start button) hold the key there for 10 secs, next press and hold the Unlock button while pressing the lock button 3 times now release the unlock button. Your car should lock and unlock that signals the key is accepted, test it try locking and unlocking before trying to start your car if all is OK the car should turn over and start. If not then you need a Diagnostic Scan to determine where the issue is ( I take it all Fuses and Relays have been checked) Dave Just reread your post I hope your key man didn't connect his jump pack direct to the battery as that could have caused serious damage ??

Hi Mike Welcome to the Forum Can you not turn Carplay off ? Access your car's infotainment system settings, find the section for Apple CarPlay or Connectivity Settings, and disable or turn off the CarPlay option. Once it's turned off try to turn on Android Auto in your BMW, connect your Android phone to the car using a USB cable, then follow the prompts on your car's display to enable Android Auto. Make sure your phone has the Android Auto app installed and is compatible with your BMW model. Hope this Helps Dave

Hi Ty Welcome to the Forum It actually advises changing the starter motor to one from a G20 model so the pinion gear teeth will mesh. Another solution would be to swap the pinion gear on the starter you have for one from a G20 model Hope this helps Dave

Morning Derrick Welcome to the Forum Never heard of the manufacturer but most of the Android units are similar so the only thought I have is you didn't connect it up right ? First fear is that damage has been done to your car so retrace your steps and put everything back as it was then see if the car starts, runs and stops as it should, fingers crossed it will. Then find what popped and let water out, don't run the car to long don't want it over heating check everything carefully. Now to the Android unit (a) is it new? (b) it should have had instructions with it ? or a website where you can watch a video. I have fitted 3 of these units 2 into friends E70's and 1 into my own all were straight forward and simple to fit all are Chinese in origin and sold under differing brands. All of them work really well and allow the use of both the in car OEM system and Android apps Dave

Morning Micheal As you started with a dead or dying battery that could well be the source of your problem. Once the new battery is fitted try reprogramming the Key yourself you have to sit in the car make sure all doors boot and bonnet are closed then go through the sequence. Dave

Hi Sandile Welcome to the Forum The original post was in 2021 5 years ago and we never did get a final answer. How old is your battery ? Is the alternator charging correctly Now your car when the car is locked does the car go to sleep (Indicator light by the gear lever go out after about 15mins) if not then one or more of the cars systems are still active. Finding a parasitic draw can be a pain and requires patience and time. A clamp Ammeter on the under bonnet live charge point should tell you what the draw is, it is natural to have some around 30 milliamps it keeps the clocks working and radio station memory etc. Anything at or above 100 milliamps is an issue, some times the only way is to pull fuses to isolate systems until the culprit is found Hope this helps Dave

Hi Micheal 11.6v normally indicates a dying battery (failed cell) have you tried to charge it ? If you do either remove the battery from the car or charge at the charge points under the bonnet. If you connect a jump set or charger at the battery while it is connected to the car there is serious risk of damage to the electronics in the car. With the voltage that low I have doubts about the key being programmed properly Dave