Michael-82

How should i check the starter? what should i do with it/ how do i test it?

i have lost the enet cable, cant find it, so cant diagnose right now. starter motors are pretty cheap on ebay. do you think it is worth buying a new one and replacing it? Just making sure the problem is the starter before buying.

i have lost the enet cable, cant find it, so cant diagnose right now. starter motors are pretty cheap on ebay. do you think it is worth buying a new one and replacing it? Just making sure the problem is the starter before buying.

hey again, so good news. i had someone else out and they found the key on the wrong frequency and coding messed up, so he fixed and and made a new key and it works as should now. other news: i try to start the car and it makes a hum noise then stops. i think it may be the starter, what do you think?

No the fem and dde errors are still there. Still trying to figure it out. I checked the fuses they are good. In the FEM. I removed the cables and checked them and they looked great. I have some photos of them. I did not check them with the multi meter . I could do that tomorrow. Also. the software still does not fully trust the voltage. even though i put a brand new battery in it and fully charged it. even checked the voltage. so i know it is all good. but still warns me about the voltage battery.

I was checking through ista while talking to google Gemini as a bit of support otherwise I’d be fully lost. I checked the FEM cables, they are good. Fuses are good. Everything seems fine. I checked other stuff such as clutch being recognised by ista, The terminal 50V is receiving power briefly when turning the car on. I checked the key to see if the car fully sees it. And it showed as recognised as invalid. I attached the pic?

Any ideas. I seem stuck. I got the dash to show that it recognises the key. In ista the KL 15: - - and KL 30: - - pretty sure it is supposed to have number. I think. Any ideas or thoughts.

I am waiting for a laptop to come in, then i am going to download ista+ to do a proper bmw scan. but in the mean time. i checked the FEM and no corrosion or damage. looks pristine. check the fuses using a millimeter. they are good. checked the hazards, indicators, headlights, windows, AC, radio, all windows work. all controls seem to work. as of now. all rear boot fuses are good.

based on some research online. after the key was programmed to the cas module and did not finanlize it with bmw level software. i think the FEM needs to be standardized/initialized after the key programming. maybe they did not do that. the guy who made the key after sending screenshots of the error codes said next week between jobs he would drop by and have a look. not sure though. could be wrong.

I ran a diognostic of the car using the bimmerlink app and Vgate vLinker MC+. these are the screenshots of the results regarding the errors.

Also, I forgot to mention. I am unsure with this specific car but when I turn the dash on. The steering wheel is still locked. Not sure if the car needs to be running for it to unlock. I don’t think so. Not sure if this information changes anything?

i am looking around for a diagnostic to scan the car but in the mean time what fuses should i check? anything else should i check? the key sync did not work.

after i hold the key for 10 second to steering column and then hold unlock and press lock button three times, do i stay in the car for that button press or step out with doors closed? and i saw the guy connect the pack to the engine bay and that did not work so he went to the battery in the back.

I attached the new battery, the car still will not lock using the fob and the key still needs to be held to the steering column at a specific angle. The power works as the AC and windows work. So the main power is fine. But these messages show. The centre screen says remote control. Remote control not present or fault engine cannot be started. I have pictures but can’t seem to attach. I spoke to the tech that did the key and he said he used a starter pack on the battery in the engine bay and then the actual battery. And it would not crank so I may have some other issue with wiring or something. No clue as of yet.

I took the battery in the house to charge it, took a few days and only went up to about 80 percent i think. that was about 3 weeks ago. before the key was being made. I will test the new battery when i comes in a few days and see what happens. if it still does not work, should i check with the key smith to come and check if it was programmed right?