I have a 2012 bmw 1 series f20. i bought it from someone cheap and the car has been sitting for a long time. it seems to have some issue. i had to get a new key programmed to the car as it had no key. After coding, the key only works when holding it up to steering column at a certain angle to turn the dash on but it will not turn the car, won't start. also wont lock car when pressing buttons. any idea on where to start on what the problem could be or where to start. new key, but the key guy said must be other issues stopping it from locking or starting? Any help. Thanks.

Hi Micheal

Answered your first post

. first what condition is the Battery in ? has it been checked ? You need a Diagnostic Scan to see what is going on the Diagnostic will only help if it is a good BMW capable system.

If the battery is in tip top condition you could try disconnecting it Neg first the Positive the touch the terminals together (discharges any residual charge in the system) leave it disconnected for 30mins the reconnect, this is a dealer trick to clear any faults. Then try registering the key again if that doesn't work Diagnostics

Good Luck

Dave

The battery was fully charged and seems and looks in good condition. i have a tool to check the voltage. I'll check that tomorrow to make sure. i have an obd2 scanner, i will also try that tomorrow to see it it shows anything. do you think the battery could possibly cause which i don't think so. do you think it is causing the remote to not lock the car? or for the car not to try and turn on. just nothing.

Morning Micheal

If when the key man was messing with your car if he had the doors open for some time before programming the key the battery voltage may have dropped. If it did it could well stop the key being correctly programmed battery should give minimum 12.5v measured at the charge points under the bonnet (Engine Off) if you get it running it should read 14.6v at the same place. As your key will not lock/unlock the car properly, either it isn't programmed correctly or it just doesn't work? Have you checked all fuses and relays ? Starter relay and Fuel pump relay ? Back to the Key if everything else checks out

A general OBD reader will not give you much useful information as it will probably only see the DME so any codes will be engine/trans related. You really need a BMW specific Diagnostic reader as an example my copy of ISTA tells me I have 51 control nodes in my E70 and I can explore each one giving around 100 options. I also have iCarsoft V2 for BMW that shows 80 control points for my E70 in both system any faults are Identified by a BMW specific code and a description of the fault in English. A Generic reader will supply a code which you will have to search on the internet and interpret

Dave

I checked the battery and it was at 11.62v using my multi meter. could that cause the problems? the guy coding a new key had a jump starter attached to battery but i still don't think that changed anything as it still did not do anything. i now know the battery is bad and am waiting for a new one to come.

Hi Micheal

11.6v normally indicates a dying battery (failed cell) have you tried to charge it ? If you do either remove the battery from the car or charge at the charge points under the bonnet. If you connect a jump set or charger at the battery while it is connected to the car there is serious risk of damage to the electronics in the car.

With the voltage that low I have doubts about the key being programmed properly

Dave

I took the battery in the house to charge it, took a few days and only went up to about 80 percent i think. that was about 3 weeks ago. before the key was being made. I will test the new battery when i comes in a few days and see what happens. if it still does not work, should i check with the key smith to come and check if it was programmed right?

Morning Micheal

As you started with a dead or dying battery that could well be the source of your problem. Once the new battery is fitted try reprogramming the Key yourself you have to sit in the car make sure all doors boot and bonnet are closed then go through the sequence.

Dave

I attached the new battery, the car still will not lock using the fob and the key still needs to be held to the steering column at a specific angle. The power works as the AC and windows work. So the main power is fine. But these messages show.

The centre screen says remote control. Remote control not present or fault engine cannot be started.

I have pictures but can’t seem to attach.

I spoke to the tech that did the key and he said he used a starter pack on the battery in the engine bay and then the actual battery. And it would not crank so I may have some other issue with wiring or something.

No clue as of yet.

Morning Micheal

Putting a new battery on the car is step 1. Step 2 Your Key is not programmed correctly so will not work, why keep trying it ?? So now the Key needs to go through the programming and syncing process . If the key will not program then a Diagnostic session is needed to check the cars systems, if the car is OK then the issue is with the Key.

So start again make sure your new battery is fully charged (check the voltage at the charge points under the bonnet) it should be 12.5v minimum. If the battery is OK get into the car all doors and windows closed, hold the key against the key symbol on the steering column dash lights should come on (Do Not push the start button) hold the key there for 10 secs, next press and hold the Unlock button while pressing the lock button 3 times now release the unlock button. Your car should lock and unlock that signals the key is accepted, test it try locking and unlocking before trying to start your car if all is OK the car should turn over and start. If not then you need a Diagnostic Scan to determine where the issue is ( I take it all Fuses and Relays have been checked)

Dave

Just reread your post I hope your key man didn't connect his jump pack direct to the battery as that could have caused serious damage ??

after i hold the key for 10 second to steering column and then hold unlock and press lock button three times, do i stay in the car for that button press or step out with doors closed? and i saw the guy connect the pack to the engine bay and that did not work so he went to the battery in the back.

Hi Micheal

First ensure the battery is fully charged. Next get into the car all doors windows bonnet and boot closed then you can program the key. Hold the key to the column (Do not touch the Start button) 10 secs, then hold down the Unlock button while pressing the lock button 3 times, when you release the unlock button the car should lock and unlock it's self you remain in the car all the time. If the car does not Lock/Unlock the Key is not programmed. If the key can't be programmed then you need a Diagnostic Scan to check what is wrong

It is a worry if a jump pack was connected at the battery while it was still on the car as that can cause electrical damage due to power surge. Fingers Crossed. As already said check all fuses plus the Fuel pump relay and Starter Relay

Dave

i am looking around for a diagnostic to scan the car but in the mean time what fuses should i check? anything else should i check? the key sync did not work.

Hi Micheal

iCarsoft V3, Foxwell,, Autologic, all have Diagnostic scanners or you could look for a Copy of ISTA/INPA or a good independent Garage or Auto Electrician may be able to help. With Diagnostics you would be looking for issues with the CAS, EWS, primarily. Diagnostics will also give you a list of all faults Existing and History which should help get to the bottom of the problem. Don't just clear faults that doesn't fix them it just hides the issue take screen shots so that you can go back over them

Go online and search for a Fuse Layout for your car, that should help any fuses to do with the CAS (Comfort Access system) Starter Relay and Fuses or Fuel Pump Relay and Fuses are a starting point.

You still have to get the Key working before you can start the car you have already seen the message from the car telling you it does not recognise the key/remote. You may not like it but you may have to go to a BMW Dealer with the V5 and they can order a Key from the factory that will match your cars immobiliser that should then be easy to program to the car.

Dave

Also, I forgot to mention. I am unsure with this specific car but when I turn the dash on. The steering wheel is still locked. Not sure if the car needs to be running for it to unlock. I don’t think so. Not sure if this information changes anything?

Morning Micheal

The Key is not programmed ??? You know that ! Either there is a problem with your car (Diagnostics) Or a problem with the Key

As I have already stated you may need a BMW supplied key

I ran a diognostic of the car using the bimmerlink app and Vgate vLinker MC+.

these are the screenshots of the results regarding the errors.

Edited March 28Mar 28 by Michael-82

based on some research online. after the key was programmed to the cas module and did not finanlize it with bmw level software. i think the FEM needs to be standardized/initialized after the key programming. maybe they did not do that. the guy who made the key after sending screenshots of the error codes said next week between jobs he would drop by and have a look.

not sure though. could be wrong.

Morning Micheal

At last some information so lets examine it and try to make sense of it

First there are 5 main faults 1 Gateway Module as it's name implies if there is a major issue here it stops communication with other control units 2. Front Electronic control module possibly related to the Gateway fault 3, Roof Module as 2 4, Rear Electronic module as 2 You are not showing the 5th fault but I would guess it's comm's related. You need to investigate the cause of the Gateway module issues your last screen shot indicates Fault 801C20 Memory full I would investigate and note all fault codes many will be repeated I would think. Once all codes are noted Clear the memory the permanent fault will reoccur that is the one that needs fixing first

Other Codes

030020 is related to the Drivers Door control Module

804180 is related to the BDC and will prevent starting (Battery and Key)

804181 is related to Parking Lamps

804182 is related to Headlamps

804184 is related to DRL's

804185 is related to Parking lamps

804186 is related to two things (a) your Bi-Xenon lights (b) your Transmission

The cause of these codes needs finding and fixing and clearing before you have a chance of properly coding the Key

If the Gateway module needs recoding it may need BMW Dealer or someone with access to their systems to help

Dave

I am waiting for a laptop to come in, then i am going to download ista+ to do a proper bmw scan. but in the mean time. i checked the FEM and no corrosion or damage. looks pristine. check the fuses using a millimeter. they are good. checked the hazards, indicators, headlights, windows, AC, radio, all windows work. all controls seem to work. as of now. all rear boot fuses are good.

Well done Micheal we will make a BMW geek out of you 🤣

In ISTA you will have WIS (workshop Information System) it will explain how to do jobs pictures and words. Hopefully your Copy will have ISTA D (Diagnostic) and ISTA P (Program)

ISTA is a big program so give it time to load fully then go slow it takes a bit of getting used to

Any questions shout

Dave

Any ideas. I seem stuck. I got the dash to show that it recognises the key. In ista the KL 15: - - and KL 30: - - pretty sure it is supposed to have number. I think. Any ideas or thoughts.

Micheal

You have some progress you have the correct diagnostic

Your first screen shot shows there are faults with 4 control modules two critical ones are the FEM and DDE they need sorting first when they are being seen and communicating (show as Green) Second screen shot shows there are a load of Fault codes associated with door controls The Drivers Door Module is the master? As I have said the program will show you where they are you need to fix them the program can't do it for you. The two Power Relays RL15 and RL30 need investigating one is in the Front fuse board the other in the Rear fuse board one or both may need changing plus remember the cars battery will need charging any deviation (loss of Volts) and you will see false error codes. Once you have the FEM and DDE operating correctly then you should be able to fully sync the key and start the car (or at least get it to turn over)

Try restarting the FEM and DDE see if they will talk to each other

Dave

I was checking through ista while talking to google Gemini as a bit of support otherwise I’d be fully lost. I checked the FEM cables, they are good. Fuses are good. Everything seems fine. I checked other stuff such as clutch being recognised by ista, The terminal 50V is receiving power briefly when turning the car on. I checked the key to see if the car fully sees it. And it showed as recognised as invalid. I attached the pic?

Micheal

ISTA is clearly showing you the KEY is not valid so you are back to the beginning. As I said in my first post answer you may well need a Genuine BMW Key only a Dealer can supply it and will need sight of the V5 in your name.

The other faults with the DDE and FEM been sorted? Checking cables how was that done did you check continuity or was it visual? Try pulling the FEM connectors and using good contact cleaner.

Dave