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About p38fln

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  1. p38fln

    328i dies at stops when warm

    I cleared the codes. It almost immediately stalled out at the next intersection, and then really, really didn't want to start. So my thought is: 1. Clean the solenoids 2. Change the transmission fluid 3. Replace the battery I convinced Carly to run, thinking it might give better results since it's better known. I think Carista actually gave better explanations. 002E85 Electric Coolant pump, communication 002F80 Motorabstellzeit, plausibility 002A87 Outlet VANOS, mechanics 00D363 CAN Fault 005DF4 CAS interface invalid / board power supply <9V ECU Internal ADC calibration error 00578E Transmission fluid deteriorate 00CF17 CAN BUS 00A559 KL30g f Cutoff 00A0B4 Error engine start starter operation 00A0B2 Error CAS supply 00A179 Overvolate / undervoltage internal voltage
  2. p38fln

    328i dies at stops when warm

    The only reason it isn't considered an inland sea is it's freshwater rather than saltwater. The port here is considered an Atlantic seaport though, and it's as far west as you can go. I've only been on the lake a few times, once on a commercial dinner cruiser and another time on a retired US Coast Guard cutter / icebreaker that someone bought for scrap and then realized still had several thousand gallons of fuel on board..so he started it up and found out everything still worked, registered it properly as a private, 180 foot, 1,000 ton fishing boat, and took oh....50 or 60 or 100 or something of his closest friends on a little trip out on the lake. He had a "discussion" with the coast guard when he got back that led to painting over the USCG logos. It was fun though 🙂 Who doesn't need a former military vessel to go fishing? They took all the weapons off but the cannon mounts were still there. It was built during world war II as a "buoy tender" that could also blow up submarines, but was built too late to actually see any wartime service. All weapons were removed before it was transferred to private hands (It wasn't heavily armed, just a few 20 mm machinge guns, a 3 inch cannon and depth charges). Carista was running a free 1 week trial so I took advantage of it. Here are the codes: 2E85 Water pump comm failure 2A87 VANOS exhaust cam timing 2A15 Fuel tank fine leak 29E1 Mixture control bank 2 29E0 Mixture control bank 1 578E Transmission oil wear observed CF17 Actual mileage/Range A559 Instrument panel power switched off 9314 ???? A3B2 CAN Signal fault A8AB right dipped beam faulty E595 Steering angle timeout A8C2 right reversing light faulty A8C1 left reversring light faulty A8AD Right sidemarker light faulty A8AC Left sidemarker light faulty A670 Center roof module - Fogging sensor malfunction
  3. p38fln

    328i dies at stops when warm

    I'll see if I can get the BMW specific code. I tried carly but it said there were no ECUs available then refused to even try to connect again without paying $60. I've been using torque (which connects fine), there's probably some overly complicated way to pull the BMW codes with it. The low flat land here is at 600 feet, i live about a mile from Lake Superior. The 'mountain' is 1250 feet. Awesome views, but it's pretty small for a mountain. It looks like that's stuff on the front of the engine so RHD or LHD shouldn't change it
  4. p38fln

    328i dies at stops when warm

    New code now: P0015 - "B" Camshaft position - timing slow (Bank 1) (I changed the word)
  5. p38fln

    328i dies at stops when warm

    Maybe I can get some pictures off the dashcam from that drive so you can experience it yourself lol It's still doing it... it took 3 hours instead of 1 and it rarely stalls now, but that's still not normal. This time, I immediately restarted the engine, pulled into a parking lot, and pulled the oil cap while it was still idling like crap to see if I could tell anything. It was nearly impossible to remove the cap due to the vacuum pressure, and when i finally did get it off, it made a howling whistling sound like a very intense windstorm would make in an old house or maybe like a furnace with a clogged filter. Sticking PCV valve?
  6. p38fln

    possible DPF error

    If it does it again, before it derates, load it down with people and luggage and make it chug up the steepest hill you can find to get the exhaust temps as high as possible. Dont turn the key off until the lights go out or it will de rate. If you do it right you'll see a cloud of black soot blow from the tailpipe and a rumbling sound as the DPF finally lights off. You're trying to light a chimney fire, that's how a DPF works. DPFs hate idling and stop and go traffic and light loads. Get it out on the open road with a nice heavy load, find some hills, race it, whatever you have to do to get the exhaust hot.
  7. I found a DPF for that model on eBay for $1600 with a really quick search. Maybe not genuine, but you really need that on there to avoid legal issues. Be sure whatever one you get is certified if your region requires it, some governments are really particular about it. It is serious violation of the law to remove emissions components here. It is not going to pass the next emissions inspection. The missing DPF could be causing the problem if whoever removed it didn't do a perfect job of reprogramming the car. After the car calls for regeneration and it doesn't happen more than once, the ECM is supposed to cut power significantly and limit the top speed to 55 MPH and light the malfunction indicator light. That sounds like what's happening to you (USA behavior, not sure if UK has the same requirements). The light could be disabled, masked, or have been programmed not to light up. You may have some legal recourse against the person you bought the car from, especially if it was a car dealer.
  8. p38fln

    328i dies at stops when warm

    Maybe the fuel cap fixed it after all. We drove down some positively spooky mountain roads in light rain mixed with heavy fog by an abandoned sanatorium (Nopeming) at midnight and it didn't stumble or stall or even get a rough idle even after driving for two hours and letting it idle for 30 minutes. Maybe it had to have a drive cycle without the massive vacuum leak for the computer to realize it didn't have a massive vacuum leak anymore. Maybe one of the ghosts at the abandoned sanatorium fixed it. Either way it ran fine for once lol
  9. p38fln


    Head gasket problems usually (but not always) have much worse symptoms than a slight amount of coolant being lost each week, like drivability issues or leaving massive white clouds of smoke behind you, especially during cold starts. You can smell if coolant is getting into the exhaust, it's got a horrible sickly sweet smell that will burn the back of your throat. Regular exhaust should smell like the fuel you're using. They're actually somewhat easy to replace compared to some of the other things that can go wrong, what most people do wrong is wait until there's definitely a problem. Definitely don't add additives unless your car is so worthless at this point that repairs will exceed the cost of replacing the whole car. I've done that on a $500 car, and what wound up happening was the additives did fix the leak. Then, they clogged up the relief valves in the expansion tank cap, which caused the cap to violently explode from the tank and sent several gallons of hot engine coolant all over pretty much everything. We tried this several times, and one of the times the cap shot off with such force with the hood open that we couldn't find it and had to buy another one. The excessive pressure blew the temporary patch that the additive did apart. We wound up selling the car to a salvage yard. Signs of a cracked head or blown gasket: 1. Antifreeze pouring from overflow tube 2. Extremely excessive pressure in engine crank case (Take the oil cap off, if your hair gets blown back by what's coming out of there you have a problem) 3. Oil mixed with antifreeze - you'll typically see this in the crank case, not in the radiator, although it can go both ways. it's just easier to see in the crank case because there's a lot less oil than there is water. 4. Power loss when hot 5. Overheating for no apparent reason (Not that you can tell on a BMW, but if your car does have a temp gauge, it will typically be running hotter than expected) 6. Engine stalling and refusal to start when hot (it will crank but won't fire, due to the plugs becoming fouled with water) 7. Excessive pressure in radiator - this is easy to check on a car with a radiator cap, just remove the cap when cold and start the car. If a geyser of engine coolant immediately blows from the radiator, you've got a blown gasket. I don't mean it bubbles a bit and flows over, it will actually shoot out like from a water cannon. Cars which only have expansion tank caps will simply begin immediately boiling like a jacuzzi. Not a few bubbles, but a frothy white mix like you see at the bottom of a waterfall.
  10. p38fln

    328i dies at stops when warm

    Well...that didn't fix it. It made it much better, it took two hours to start doing it instead of 30 minutes, and now it will keep running if it's in DS mode, it only stalls in D. It was definitely a problem, but not the whole problem. The cable I ordered should arrive soon, so hopefully I can find out more information. I just realized it's behaving very similar to my cousin's GMC Terrain/Chevrolet Equinox which has a clogged up PCV/CCV which caused her car to generate enough crankcase pressure to blow the rear main seal. I'm going to try popping the oil cap the next time it starts doing this to see if the engine smooths out. Do these cars not have dipsticks? I spent at least 20 minutes looking for it yesterday. Yes all that white crap is starting to melt now, some of the roads are like rivers because the snow is blocking the storm drains and making it so the ground wont absorb water. Where's the air intake at? I don't want to submerge it.
  11. p38fln

    328i dies at stops when warm

    Well, I feel like a complete idiot. The car finally told me what the problem was. It flashed "Tighten fuel cap" on the display and I was thinking this thing doesn't even have a gas cap.... I just assumed it didn't have one since newer Fords don't have them. Checked the manual, found that yes, it's supposed to have a gas cap, and $30 later, I have an aftermarket gas cap. I always wondered what that green thing was for. So now we know why it was so intermittent. It only happened if I was going slow when the emission system requested a purge of the gas tank.
  12. p38fln

    328i dies at stops when warm

    I've got some interface cables on order now so I should be able to do some better diagnostics in a week or so. I just realized the problem improved after fueling up one time, and then got much worse after fueling up the next time. Premium gas is hardly ever used here because the American car manufacturers know that it's a lost cause trying to get us to buy more expensive grades of gas so they just design them so the cheap stuff works, it's possible that the insanely cold weather (We had a week or so where it never got above 0°F for the daytime high) caused water to get in the underground storage tanks from condensation and the relatively low volume sold kept the bad gas from simply being sold off. Is BP actually that much better? It says to use it in the owner's manual, and it's the first time I've ever seen a manufacturer recommend a brand rather than a grade of fuel.
  13. This is almost exactly what mine has been doing. Did the switch to BP help any?
  14. p38fln

    328i dies at stops when warm

    Where is the filter at? No I haven't changed it
  15. p38fln

    328i dies at stops when warm

    It's still doing it although it doesn't completely die anymore and it takes longer to start doing it, I'm going to put new coils in it and see if that clears it up. I just have to wait until it's warm enough for the plastic to not shatter into a million pieces. If better fuel is helping the issue, my guess is that it's some kind of ignition issue.