Greydog

Morning Rick Harman Kardon were the top of the OEM line so a starting point is use a Vin Decoder to check what was fitted at build S676A is Hifi S674A is Harman Kardon Next check that all speakers are working including the central base speakers under the front seats. It isn't unusual for door speakers to fail particularly if there has been water ingress. If everything is working but is standard Hifi an upgrade to HK components may give what you want (Speakers Amp etc) If it is already HK then your in the hands of the aftermarket Audio specialists Hope this Helps Dave

OK checked ISTA WIS (Workshop Information System) and spoke with an ex neighbour who works for BMW ISTA first there is nothing to indicate the filter housing should be changed at intervals. There is a Note to say the filter should be inserted into the filter body then the housing screwed by hand into position. If the filter is inserted in the housing there is a danger it can be cross threaded and the housing damaged do not overtighten My ex neighbour says it was a common mistake putting the filter into the housing and tightening that is where they were cracked Dave

Morning Paul The Filter assembly on my 4.6is is original (car is 22 years old) I have not been aware of changing the Filter assembly as part of a service routine. Later today I will fire up ISTA on my garage laptop and check all the Workshop Instructions then let you know Dave

Morning Larry All the under tray covers from memory but the job was achieved from under the dash. I took out the drivers seat to get more room (disconnect the battery) but if your young and bendy you may be able to get way without removing the seat 🤣 Check the internet for any how too video's 1 2 3 4 series are all very similar. One of the best bits of modern phones is being able to take pictures of how things fit and where they go that will help when putting stuff back If you know anyone with a copy of INPA/ISTA (BMW Diagnostics) it includes TIS (technical Information) and WIS (Workshop Information) which obviously helps knowing how a dealer would go about it Dave Just found this picture shows how the spring fits (this from a friends pic collection Hope it helps

Welcome only one thing to Add to Stu's post " ENJOY" oh and hide your license 😅 Dave

Morning Larry Welcome to the Forum That must make for and interesting drive 😅 135i's are pretty lively so knowing which way it's pointing is a must Take a look at www.realoem,com put the last 7 digits of your Vin into the search box it will call up your model, then check the Steering section you should find a section for steering column adjustment A friend of one of our sons had a similar issue with his 1 series unfortunately you have to get under the dash to fix it ( it helps to be young and bendy). Look at the small exploded drawing his problem was the spring had broken he managed to get one from the local Dealer (cost him £15 iirc) after that it was a simple fix. Just a Faff to get at Dave

Morning Chris Don't run the pump the washer fluid has to go somewhere 😅 And at the moment it isn't on the back window Dave

Morning Jerry Check www.realoem.com the small exploded drawings can really help understand where things are and how they fit. Make sure parts swapped are correct, also check the intercooler I have seen 2 that were full of oil and had split Don't just check the boost side check all the vacuum lines as well it doesn't take much to upset smooth running How did you get on with the suspension refurb Dave

Hi Chris Welcome to the Forum Sorry can't open your Video However if you check www.realoem.com put the last 7 digits of your Vin into the search box it will call up your model then check the vehicle electrical system section it shows the rear wiper assembly complete with Spray Nozzle You will also see all the part numbers if you need to buy one you should find it under the rear spoiler above the back window I believe Good luck Dave

Morning Alan Welcome to the Forum Makes you wonder about the service book is it really for the same car? Then again with extended service periods the oil will get very black and thick. If the engine is running well first job would be drain some oil then add an engine flushing agent run the engine to clean as much crud as possible then drain and new filter, add cheap oil and more flushing agent and repeat after a couple of flushes it should be much cleaner inside then Filter and a Good Oil Dave

Morning Oliver When I rebuilt my 4.6is there was enough room to get a Stilson pipe wrench on the boss at the back of the pulley. That worked for me As you will be fitting new belts another tip is wrap the old belt around the pulley and clamp it tight with a pair of Mole grips the loose end of the belt clamp to the front subframe that should give enough of an anchor to torq things up don't reuse the old bolts as they are already stretched. Good Luck Dave

Hi Oliver There are many bolts that require Torq plus a Degree tightening sequence so best to stick to the sequence or you could over stretch the bolts and end up with them failing I have a 1/2" drive degree tool but you can cut a circle of cardboard and mark 0, 90, 180, 270 off in pen then mark 3 equal sections in each segment. Torque to 40Nm then put your card in place mark the 0 point on the car with tippex. Now you can turn the bolt 90 plus one segment (30d) for your 120d, always tighten in a diagonal pattern Dave

Morning Tony Welcome to the Forum First start with a search for the correct part number for your car use www.realoem.com (if you are not aware it is an online BMW parts list) put the last 7 digits of your Vin into the search box it will bring up your model, then search the Exhaust section (is your car EU3, EU5, EU6) Once you have the correct part number use it to find the best supplier/price (£300 to £400) would be my expectation remember you may have to add clamps and gaskets to the price. If the part is correct fitting should be straight forward it will however need setting up. Depending on labour cost I would guess the whole job to be £800 to £1000 depending on what additional parts are needed Remember you can't just bolt it on, the ECU has to be set up to know the car has a new DPF (your garage should know that) Also make sure the Glow plugs and Controller are working correctly or the Regen cycle wont work correctly. Hope that helps Dave

Morning Paul I would expect a Dealership to understand the Diagnostic programme, however as they say "never Assume" As an old (very) engineer I was always taught to treat a fault as a symptom rather than the actual cause. Sadly modern thinking and diagnostics have lead to a part swapping culture quite often at the Clients cost. I would start by getting a really good electrical contact cleaner, then first disconnect the battery unplug the Footwell module (also called FRM) and clean and check all the plugs and pins, if all good put it back and repeat with the Junction box (JBE) if all good reconnect the battery carry out a diagnostic. Record any faults then clear the active faults if there are any. The screen shot below shows the cars control unit tree not shown is the JBE the Yellow and Blue lines at the top come from there, the JBE manages the 2 main communication lines. On the left 3 down is the CAS (Comfort Access System) second line at the bottom FRM (Footwell Module) third blue line is the Most bus Infotainment In the screen shot you can see the IHKA in yellow (investigation shows Aux Water Pump) far right the DDE is yellow as 2 glow plugs are not working. The control tree for your car will depend on the original build sheet for equipment but at least you can see how things are linked. As your issue is intermittent my thought process is more loose or corroded pin on one of the connection plugs on either the JBE (on the side of the fuse box) or the Footwell module Hope this helps Dave

Hi Paul As the fault is intermittent it always a mission to track down, INPA/ISTA will show faults present and faults not present but recorded in the history. So if INPA/ISTA was used I would have expected the fault to be seen Many garages just clear faults then see what comes back (not helpful at times) The fact that your radio seems to be linked to the fault occurrence makes me think the issue is with either the Footwell Module or Junction Box as these modules are the ones that link the two systems (Radio is on the MOST Bus circuit Doors are I believe K-Can) Dave

Hi Paul I would from that description suspect a Footwell Module or Junction Box fault a diagnostic scan with a good BMW capable system should confirm (Best is BMW INPA/ISTA) Dave

Hi Albert Welcome to the Forum As the keys are linked to the cars Comfort access system, Alarm and Immobiliser I am not sure a Second Hand Key would be an Option. I know that the older Bladed keys could be recoded but just not sure about the newer generations, though I have read of a couple of people offering Key Coding services how reliable and effective they are I have no idea. I have to say I would think twice about allowing someone access to my car for that type of service ?? £600 may seem steep (it is but BMW have never been cheap) but it may be the safe option Just my thoughts Dave

Morning Richard Welcome to the Forum When you say "maximum" tyre depth are you looking at the side wall (between the ground and the wheel rim) ? Those tyre sizes are correct for the wheels you have, however depending on build spec and country 16" wheels fitted with 205x55x16 front 225x50x16 rear or 225x45x17 front 255x40x17 rear (Note both theses options also came as a set of 4 wheels same as the front size) 18" were also available in225x40 front and 255x35 rear If you are considering a wheel change check care fully the the new wheels fit with the brakes on your car If you are asking because you are finding the ride hard/harsh then there are some additional things to check Suspension starting with springs (are they stock) Shock Absorbers as they age they may harden in action Suspension Bushes these are rubber and again harden and crack giving a harsh jolty ride Hope this helps not hinders 😁 Dave

Morning David I think Stu was referring to the Oil Filler Cap not the Oil Filter Depending on how competent you are with spanners the codes you have indicate Vanos issues it could be just the sensor or it could be the actual vanos mechanism is sticking. Clearing a code doesn't fix an issue just resets it, if replacing the Vanos Sensor doesn't fix the problem the the Vanos mechanism needs removing cleaning and servicing new seals etc. If not you need a Garage/Mechanic who can do the work for you Dave

Hi Stuart Welcome to the Forum There are after market cameras the fit like the OEM ones in the trunk/boot lid release handle spot it is linked through the PDC but you may need a video handling unit? I t depends on the cars original spec Dave

Hi Jerry You say Shocks, arms, springs OK what about Anti Roll Bar bushes and links ? Have you checked the Sub Frame mounts ? Also worth checking the engine mounts ? Is the Engine reinforcement plate in place and tight. As you feel it in the footwell my best guess is Anti Roll Bar bushes Dave

Hi Steve As the car is still under warranty why not get the Dealer to sort it ? It may be simple "a learning process for you and the car" or possibly a software upgrade ? Dave

Morning Jerry BMW use a complicated spring rating system the Dealer will need Chassis Number etc etc and then a Body Part as a deposit 😅 Bilstien are OEM suppliers among others so that is where I would start for Springs and Shocks Dave

Morning Jo Welcome to the Forum I have read about how to do this but have never had to do it myself, so here goes 1) If your starter still rotates and the ignition can be on So, the engine may be dead, but when you push the start button, the BMW still makes some noises and turns some lights. This is the good news because this is the easiest way to put your car in neutral. Here's what you should do: Apply the handbrake to hold your car in place and safely operate. Apply the footbrake and don't release the pedal until you finish the procedure. Push the start button - the starter will start rotating and you may immediately continue. Push the unlock button on your select lever and hold it until you finish with the settings. Put the lever from the P position to the N position and hold it there for at least 4 seconds. Then put it back in the P position for a while. Quickly put the lever into the N position and then right away to the P position again. Release the unlock button on your lever. Release the footbrake. Now, the display should show N and the transmission should go to neutral, the wheels will be unlocked. But this won't last forever. After 15 minutes, the transmission will be blocked again. This is made for the safety of the vehicle to avoid rolling back or forward. 2) If the engine and the battery are dead If the ignition doesn't even try to turn on, you can't use this official method because nothing will work. In this case, you will need to know where the transmission lock screw is located. It's under the vehicle near the transmission. Find it and see what kind of instrument you need for unscrewing it. Unfortunately, there is no proper instruction for all BMW models. But usually, you will need to unscrew this bolt and then the wheels will be released up until you screw it back. 3) Does the orange tool work? Yes, newer BMWs will have a special orange tool and you will have to insert it into the emergency gear release hole and turn. This is the easiest way and it will work with both alive and dead engines. But most BMWs don't have this system, so remember the two options that will work with nearly all BMW cars equipped with automatic transmission Just hope one of these works Dave

Well that was fun first ISTA wouldn't acknowledge the EHC (Electronic Height Controller) took it out cleaned the pins back in now I could see it but it wouldn't allow Calibration ?? So go at it from a different angle inflate airbags individually. All of a sudden back to normal, ride height recalibrated 🤣 Hope thats the end of the story Dave