Greydog

Hi Jeffrey Welcome to the Forum BMW do not release them all the Dealer does is change the complete diff then retain the old one so there is little on the market. Having said that I did get a rebuild kit for my E53 4.6is from Bimmertune they were also helpful with pre-load settings and torques may be do a search see if they are still around Check www.realoem.com to make sure you get the correct kit my E70 rear diff has two different fluids Hope this is some help Dave

First check the solenoid is getting power (test lamp or multi meter) if it is you will need to remove the starter in order to bench test it On the bench make sure the pinion gear is free and moving in its slides you will need a spare battery to test the motor (make sure it's secure in a bench vise. Connect positive to the solenoid and touch the negative lead to the starter body it should spin if not then it looks like a new starter Dave

Morning Martyn Without checking a wiring diagram not sure which circuit that would be but just looking at the cable size obviously a major supply. I would disconnect the battery and investigate how its fixed and why its loose. Loose connections create heat and increase current draw and eventually damage to the connection itself. Dave

Morning Micheal Then test the starter motor or take it off and get it tested before just throwing money at it However if you have deep pockets buy one and put it on you may be lucky ? Just make sure the part numbers are correct some starters have different pinion gears Dave

Hi Micheal So it was the Key glad your sorted at last There are a number of reasons Starter Relay stuck, Starter Solenoid failed, Or Starter Motor What do your diagnostics tell you ? Dave

Hi Martyn As you stated in your post that the battery was charged and new but when connected to the car showed low on your tester That would point towards a fault in the starter circuit which is why I suggested the checks I did a poor earth or loose connection will increase current draw dramatically plus they are free 😁 Starters do fail I have seen a few that at start drew very high current causing poor starting check the starter Relay and all connections. To be sure you will need a full Diagnostic scan Dave

Morning Martyn Welcome to the Forum Just reading your post you may have diagnosed your own problem If a fully charged new battery reads low when connected there is possibly a fault in the Earth Circuit Check the battery earth lead connections, not just if it's loose, un-bolt it clean it and remake the connections then check the Engine earth straps same scenario remove check them carefully clean the joint and remake them. Then do the same with the starter circuit. Once done remake all connections and test if the fault is still there Check the power lead connections at the battery and under the bonnet at the charge point Hope this helps Dave

Morning Malachy Welcome to the Forum I did read somewhere the boot release is behind the rear seat back, tip the seat back forward and check there Hope this helps Dave

Hi Billy The CCC home screen looks like this The CiC home screen like this Hope this helps Dave

Morning Chris Glad it's sorted at least you can enjoy your Beemer now Well done Service4service for sorting it for you and thanks for the heads up on their capability Also thanks for closing out the post Dave

Morning Alistair Welcome to the Forum A Diagnostic scan a full service and inspection by a Garage that understands BMW's. BMW Dealers can be very expensive so I would look for a Local BMW Specialist (there is a register online) Good luck with the recommissioning Dave

Morning Billy Welcome to the Forum Check www.realoem.com put the last 7 digits of your Vin into the search box it will bring up your model the check the Audio section get the part numbers for the dab install then check the internet for parts and costs. Or check companies like Cartronics who can upgrade your existing radio at least you would have a cost comparison. Or you could go for one of the Android upgrades again you will have comparison prices Good Luck Dave

Morning Christine Get the garage to check the Transmission Cooler, transmission fluid can't just disappear but it may have leaked into the coolant, get them to test the Coolant for oil contamination in case the leak is into the engine coolant. The trans cooler is a Heat Exchanger that attaches to the rad by "O" ring seals it also has a Thermostat to help maintain correct Trans operating temperatures if the leak is at the rad end the fluid may have boiled off so the leak may not be obvious Dave

Morning Ian Welcome to the Forum S drive is 2 wheel drive X drive 4 wheel drive a neighbour has a Diesel X1 she loves it gives an average around town in the high 40's into the 50's on a trip. From what I read there is little difference between S and X drive Petrol at high 30's As you have winter tyres and have survived so far 😅 and 2 wheel drive is what your used to 4 wheel drive gives more security and drive but it isn't infallible. As always the big Nut holding the steering wheel that is the key component 🤣 What ever your choice I hope you enjoy it Dave

Morning Welcome to the Forum Check websites like Parkers or Autotrader even the Auction sites my guess would be anywhere between £8 and £11k depending on condition, service history and whether trading in or selling outright. Good Luck Dave

Morning Welcome to the Forum Try checking websites like Parkers or some of the Classic Car Auction sites you may find some clues there Good Luck Dave

Morning Most exhaust specialists should be able to source the correct part ,or check www.realoem.com yourself to get the correct part number then search the internet. I believe the Petrol and diesel models have different pipe sizes again check www.realoem.com Dave

Hi James I brought my current E70 X5 cheap (very cheap) as the Turbo was damaged and the BMW Dealer quoted silly numbers for a New Replacement. I fitted a Refurbished turbo from a specialist serviced the car and off it went that was 75k back . Dave

Morning James Welcome to the Forum Wow a rare beast if you can find it and get it back on the road Heres wishing you every success with the hunt and the restoration Dave

Morning Get a good electrical contact cleaner whenever you break a connection give it a good clean before putting it back. Test the power relays RL 15 front fuse board RL 30 rear fuse board dAVE

Morning Zek Welcome to the Forum Not done this for a few years but as long as the replacement has the same part number registering to the chassis should work. With an E53 some years back it needed the ECU and EWS to match if you have a donor car you should be OK Dave

Micheal ISTA is clearly showing you the KEY is not valid so you are back to the beginning. As I said in my first post answer you may well need a Genuine BMW Key only a Dealer can supply it and will need sight of the V5 in your name. The other faults with the DDE and FEM been sorted? Checking cables how was that done did you check continuity or was it visual? Try pulling the FEM connectors and using good contact cleaner. Dave

Several days ??? and it's a known issue, if it known then there must be a solution ask them what it is? Talk to another dealer or BMW Customer Services Dave

Morning Stuart Welcome to the Forum When you say no DTC which Diagnostic program was used ? As things do work even if it is a bit Eric Morecombe "all the right notes just not in the right order" A bit of a pain but you could try cleaning the connector pins on the AC control unit with a good electrical contact cleaner. Or possibly if you have access to a BMW capable Diagnostic try rebooting the unit in case it's a software glitch Dave

Morning Janet Welcome to the Forum It could be caused by a dry solder joint on a PCB board or possibly a software issue either way not good. As you have evidence it is not an isolated incident go to your Dealer and they should fix it under Warranty Dave