Greydog

Morning Charles Welcome to the Forum I would Google the Register of BMW Specialists there should be a few close by then call and talk to them about your issue then make a choice I would expect all to say they need to see the car to make a diagnosis and give outline costs Good Luck Dave

It will drive like a new car when your finished 😁

Hi Melvyn Welcome to the Forum A friend who worked for a company upgrading and repairing Audio Systems for high end cars (Merc BMW Audi/VW) told me a few years back it will depend on the year and software version in the Infotainment system not the Manufacture/Reg year of the car. His advice was check using a Vin Decoder exactly what is fitted to your car then you will know what upgrade is possible/needed to enable it as a guide he gave me this CIC (ID3/4) ~2010–2016 No Needs MMI or Android screen NBT (ID4) ~2013–2016 No (rare cases) Some retrofits possible NBT Evo (ID5/6) ~2016–2019 Software activation Needs S6CPA + Wi-Fi for full-screen MGU (ID7) ~2019–2022 Native wireless Bluetooth pairs, Wi-Fi runs it MGU21 (ID8/8.5) ~2022+ Native wireless Requires Siri; setup differs So it would seem if you have the the NBT Evo system then you need a Wifi Antenna and the software (S6CPA) and it should run on your OEM system, Note the Manufacture years shown are for the Infotainment systems I had to fit a replacement Android screen in my E70 and all up very happy with it If you have the NBT system Google the Register of BMW Specialists you should find a few near to you then check out prices Hope this helps Dave

Hi Gary They can be a beeech can't they😁 first time I did the job it took all day now it take me around 2 hrs a side to take off refurb and replace. Did you mark the position of the Eccentric washers before removal as that helps when putting them back and will get you very close to original setting before alignment. I use a DeWalt reciprocating saw to cut all the the bolts connecting the swing arm and Upper and Lower arms, due to the salt on our roads in winter most are so rusted that even if they eventually undo they need replacing anyway (never like re-using rusted nuts and bolts) Great job keep us up to speed Dave

Morning Gary Is the clutch on the compressor kicking in and out ? Fuses OK ? Really daft one is the drive belt OK ? As already said it could be the Dryer If the system is charged and Drive belt Fuses and Compressor clutch are OK then a diagnostic scan needs to be carried out Dave

Hi Garry Welcome to the Forum How do you know the Aircon is charged? I the compressor running ? if it is and it is properly charged could be the Dryer Dave

Morning David Welcome to the Forum First a couple of questions (1) Do you have access to a Good BMW Diagnostic program (ISTA/INPA, iCarsoft, Foxwell,or similar) and a vacuum bleeding kit (2) Have you read the brake bleeding process on INPA/ISTA the ABS pump needs activating to clear possible air locks Not trying to teach Granny here but 😁 When bleeding brakes changing Brake fluid I start at the wheel furthest from the Master cylinder, Fill the Master cylinder and pump the pedal to start the fluid moving, either take your time a few pumps and check the fluid level or have an assistant to keep it topped up. After a bit you should feel pressure, now crack the bleed nipple on the wheel furthest from the Master cylinder air should be expelled If you have a Vacuum kit it will pull through the fluid if not you and your assistant will need to follow the old method of pedal down close bleed nipple pedal up check fluid level pedal down bleed nipple cracked air/fluid expelled bleed nipple closed repeat until just clear fluid is coming through before moving to the next cylinder (always furthest away from the Master cylinder) So Near side rear, Off side rear, Nearside front , Off side front. Once all 4 calipers have been Bled the ABS pump needs activating to finalise the process. If you still have a soft pedal an old trick is pump the pedal until hard cut a piece of wood to fit between the brake pedal and drivers seat then wedge the wood there to keep the pressure up (I have used the electric seat to adjust). It needs to be left for a couple of hours even overnight then re-bleed, had a neighbours 5 series that needed this done 3 time really stubborn 🤣 Hope this helps Dave

Morning Callum Welcome to the Forum As your car is 2009 vintage bushes and bearings in the suspension will be either worn out or very close to it What exactly have you checked ? As your description seems to point to the rear end I would start there. (1) Subframe mounting bushes any sign of cracking or wear change them (Note there are 2 sizes Front and rear). (2) Diff Mounting Bush same applies (3) Check Springs and their mounts and shock absorbers (4) Next Spherical Bush and all control arms rear anti roll bar mounts. (5) Wheel Bearings and drive shafts If you have a reasonable tool kit and access to the internet there are many "How Too" videos online and most jobs are a straight forward DIY proposition Good Luck hope this helps Dave

Morning James I use an Android screen in my E70 X5 and have fitted 5 for others and all work really well. All I can suggest is back track and make sure all connections are secure give them a spray with contact cleaner just to be sure. Then on your phone clear the Bluetooth connection and remake it, Is the connection complete ie. Address book uploaded, all media streaming etc connected ? I have read that some older phones G2 G3 have had problems so how old is your phone and it's Bluetooth chip. If you know someone with a new/newer phone (Android 10 or above) see if they can connect cleanly. If they can't it's back to Droid Dave

Morning Tim Welcome to the Forum The place to start is www.realoem.com put the last 7 digits of your Vin into the search box it will call up your model. Then search the Audio/Navigation section if the Harman system was an option it will show along with parts required. Are you trying for a Speaker/Amp Upgrade or a full system upgrade ? Never done this upgrade but I would expect that some software will be needed along with the hardware to get it working with the cars Infotainment system. Not like years ago, add a few wires and a fuse or two and off you go 🤣 Good Luck Dave

Morning Gary The chemical reaction between the alloy of the swing arm and the Steel bolt does stick them in there 🤣 I have changed a few over the years E53 X5 and 5 Series plus X5 and X6 all use the same basic design the M12 bolt that holds the Integral arm to the Hub Carrier can go as well. BMW Dealers undo the Shock top mount and swing arm mounting bolts then change the whole Suspension arm cost no object as your paying and they will have quoted for that probably around £1000 + per side 🤣 I don't use an Impact gun I have a Torque multiplying tool (16 to 1) ratio gentler to use tighten loosen action and still give loads of feel. I still have stripped a few though As Stu says a Helicoil in a suspension part is a bit of an unknown? Personally I have brought a second user swing arms from Ebay and clean them up ( part number from ISTA or Realoem) normally around £80 to £100 check the threads carefully and re-bush them (I have a hydraulic bearing press OEM Bushes need compressing prior to pressing in). You can use OEM bushes or Poly Bushes. I am assuming you already have new Spherical bushes as part of your rebuild kit. Good luck Dave

Morning Abhi Welcome to the Forum I have read of N55 engines having an appetite for oil but the only experience I have is my next door neighbour who runs a 335i touring he covers around 8k miles a year car is 5 and uses very little oil between annual services. I know because I help him service his car at home You say the owner said the car was serviced around 1000km ago is there any proof receipts stamped service book etc? Also was the correct Synthetic LL04 oil used ? I would start by giving the car a service or at a minimum an oil and filter change using the correct Oil and Filter. I believe your car should hold 6.5ltr's of 5-30 Fully Synthetic LL04 make certain the filter is OEM quality (Mann are OEM suppliers) Remember either buy 7 x 1 liter bottles (my preference) if getting a 5 litre container and 2 x 1 litre check what quantity is actually in the big container many are 4.5litre. Add at least 5liters and run the engine let it settle and check for leaks and level then top up. Then note the Mileage/Kilometers and your in a good place to check usage Good Luck Dave

Hi Sam Welcome to the Forum A healthy battery should show 12.5v+, 12.2 v shows its down a bit 70/80% 10 v shows depleted which indicates very high amps being drawn at start You can check the starter with a clamp ammeter on the starter cable I have seen failing starters draw 700+Amps It's good advice to check the earth straps as they can fail even if it looks OK if its hot/warm after and attempted start it's worth at least removing cleaning and reseating it obviously any sign of damage change it Check www.realoem.com if you aren't aware put the last 7 digits of your vin into the search engine it will call up your model then check the sections for what you need (I would guess engine electrical section) Good Hunting Dave

Morning Vivek Welcome to the Forum Not sure what your problem is exactly, the inner door handle mechanism ? The inner door handle cable ? Outer Door handle mechanism or cable ? Or the Door latch mechanism ? Take a look at www.realoem.com put the last 7 digits of your Vin into the search box it will call up your model. Then check the sections for what you need, Part numbers may differ depending on trim level When taking off the inner door panel take care not to damage the inner water membrane a heat gun or hair dryer will soften the adhesive and make it easier Hope this helps Dave

Thanks for the Update Your car definitely has 2 Temp Sensors the first at the Thermostat housing and the second in the Bottom hose close to the rad. The Electrical connections normally have a push spring clip release as I remember, the sensors are screw fit Check www.realoem.com if you are not aware it's an Online BMW parts list for correct part numbers then the small exploded drawings will help with location. If you need help you could also try Pelican Parts website they have some great how too's with pictures. Dave

Hi Indroneel Welcome to the Forum First if it is the ABS Harness I would check www.realoem.com (BMW Parts List) put the last 7 digits of your Vin into the search box it should call up your model. Then check the car electrical system section to see if there is a Repair Harness If there is the next trick will be finding one, I would try BMW Specialist dismantlers. If no joy then stripping the harness on the car to find the extent of the damage and what caused it then splicing in cable sections and re wrapping the loom will work. In the UK there are specialist companies who will repair damaged ABS units in case that is the problem Good Luck with the fix great cars when going well Dave

Morning Iyahsu Welcome to the Forum A little more information required which model of X5 and what year ? Your panel tells us X5 2026 if so then it is Dealer Warranty time. Has the car been overheating ? Or losing Coolant ? We know it's an X5 but E53 E70 F15 G05 ? Engine 3.0i 4.4 3.0d ? Your picture shows 2 sensors the upper one is on the throttle body the lower one looks to be on the Thermostat housing which sensor have you pulled ? As long as you only disconnected the sensor plug it should just go back as came off. If you have removed the actual sensor then compare it to the one you removed carefully or put the old one back. Your BMW normally has 2 temp sensors 1 at the Thermostat housing 1 at the bottom right of the Radiator the gauge works on an average from both Dave

Morning Brian Welcome to the Forum I have heard of several issues with Hybrid Transmissions but this is a new one !! The Dealer is basically saying the car is very badly designed with a Transmission not suitable for purpose? that stinks. They are saying that you purchased a Top of the range car for its Performance and Power that has an inherent Fault, and the only way to fix it is to reduce Power and Performance to that of a lesser model ??? I would write formally to the Dealer MD with a copy to BMW Customer services setting out the sorry tale so far then set out a time to repair properly (say end of month) or Return your money plus any out of pocket costs or expense incurred Good Luck let us know what happens Dave

Hi Scott Welcome to the Forum Sorry to hear about your Dog and now selling your Beemer I haven't seen an E31 for years and now you pop up and at Goodwood a guy had an absolutely immaculate 850i for sale at £70k so are you sure your pricing is right ? OK his was mint but you may be underselling it, have you checked sites like Car&Classic ? Or get a professional valuation hate to see people losing out Dave

Hi Dave Sounds weird couple of questions (1) Was it like that before service ? (2) Did you ask the Dealer to investigate as many Dealers only use the Diagnostics if there is an issue I thought Auto Start/Stop was either On or Off ? Maybe a conversation with the Dealer to find out just what they did and whether there was a Diagnostic run Dave

Hi Windil Welcome to the Forum I have only seen that code once quite a few years back it is Transmission specific and points towards the internal speed sensor in the box Before doing any major stripping check the loom connection at the box make sure it is seated and sealed correctly with luck just cleaning and reseating will do the job. If not then the internal speed sensor may have failed. Dave

Morning Claire Welcome to the Forum From your description it would seem the Actuator is sticking/dying you do need the door open to change it though Dave

Morning Frank Check www.realoem.com put the last 7 digits of your Vin into the search box it will call up your model, then search the sections for the door actuator and boot/tailgate struts note the part numbers. Then search the internet for the best prices. Changing the boot struts is straight forward with the help of a trusty broom to hold up the tailgate remove some trim to expose the electrical connector and remove them. Changing the door actuator is again a straight forward but the door panel has to be removed take care with the inner membrane don't damage it. A hair dryer or heat gun will help soften the adhesive that holds it in place. I believe there are a few "How Too's" on the internet Hope this helps Dave

Morning Martyn I am still confused as you said you connected a New Battery and tested it, it showed low voltage ? Had you tried to start the car before your test ? You also told us that off the car the old battery tested full ? Had it been charged or was it tested straight from the car ? When testing the battery what voltage are you seeing ? 12.5v + Battery fully charged 12v around 80% 11v or below Battery is discharged or dying So if it isn't a loose connection in the power supply and all earth connections are good and the battery is still fully charged the Starter and its Relay are left. I would still run a Diagnostic check to be sure Dave

Morning Martyn When you get back try starting the car get it up to temp then feel that cable and connection for any heat Dave