Greydog

Morning CGH Welcome to the Forum The poor old gearbox is one of the most abused parts of a car and can be as expensive to repair/replace as an engine which we service religiously, yet the gearbox and diffs are ignored All car manufacturers buy the Gearbox in knowing that the gearbox manufacturer has a service schedule for each box type. As often this schedule is outside their own Warranty responsobility they ignore it (or used to) At one time several Main Dealers would tell customers the Gearbox is sealed for life ??? While the Manufacturer advised service Fluid and Filter every 60000 to 100000 kilometers dependent on climate and use. Service cost is normally similar to an engine service Dave

Morning Zoe Welcome to the Forum I would seek help else where an inspection ? what did they inspect and a dignostic scan will not necessarily tell you what or where the fault is particularly if it isn't a BMW capable diagnostic program. From your description it would seem there is a short somewhere when the wipers are on that is having an effect on one or more other systems (Throttle body, Fuel delivery, Wategate) Go online there is a register of BMW specialists you should find one near you or a Good Automotive Electrician Good luck Dave

Hi Ken It shouldn't be possible to fit an OEM or OEM style replacement wrongly as the joins are 3 bolt flanges. So my guess would be either it is an After Market exhaust or a support hanger is broken/missing If you are not aware take a look at www.realoem.com its an online BMW parts list, go to the Classic section then the model your considering check the exhaust section which will show both front and rear parts are fitted and supported. Dave

Morning Ken Welcome to the Forum Can't comment on whether it's normal or not as it is a long time since I have seen one 😁 Remember your looking at a 40+ year old car, I would bet it has had more than one exhaust or sections replaced in that time. It could be a missing/broken exhaust hanger or simply refitting, if it was replaced with a pattern part (not unusual) the only way to tell is to stand infront of the car (and get down under) I would check out replacement cost in case its the old enemy rust and use it in negotiation Beautiful cars hope it works out for you Dave

Thanks Paul I will trawl my notes and contacts to see if I can get any information for you Dave

Hi Paul When you say "when cranking it is all lit up" Are you reffering to the Dash Lights ? Or something else ? Not aware of an Overhead console on the cabriolet Dave

Morning Ray Welcome to the Forum From memory there are several connections but they should be colour coded I think the only route is to go back over what you did just to make sure tey are all correct an seated make sure the earth hasn't been disturbed Good Luck Dave

Morning They are really well thought out position aren't they (not) First time I did this on my own E70 I unbolted the seat moved it back and tipped it on it's side to get more room. My problem was a failed acctuator, then after struggling for a day to get the door card off I was talking to a BMW Mechanic who told me that in the workshop they just release the top of the door card open the window then slide a long screwdriver or pry bar down between the card and the door until it sits on the little lever that the internal door pull is attached to. push down until it stops then give it a good whack. The door will open then you can get to those pesky screws. Replacing the acctuator is straight forward just check the outer door handle cable is in good condition and free when I did this for a friend who thought he had the same problem as I had had same symptoms. Got the door open in 10 mins changed the acctuator then just before putting the card back on we tested the lock (triggered it with a screw driver) and the acctuator wouldn't release ??? After lots of head scratching with the door still locked I put my hand up inside the door to where the outer dor handle cable attaches and the lever could be moved down a fraction, click door open!! Rang the BMW Dealer who luckily had a cable after changing it all worked as it should again. So if you have the top of the door card free you should be able to use the screw driver pry bar technique Hope that helps Dave

Morning Donald We are a BMW Forum but having personally owned and run 3 AMG Mercedes under the Bonnet (Hood) on the left of the car (Drivers side for you) Mercedes put a plastic capped Pos terminal the Neg terminal was on the suspension mount. Same arrangement on a friends 2004 230 CLK If you got burning it could be one of your connections was in the wrong place or just dirty. Hope it didn't melt anything Dave

Morning Stu That looks brutal 🤣 nice and bright though You didn't have the metal high speed saw blades then 🤣 Dave

Morning Gary Welcome to the Forum Even a relativley new battery can die fully charge the battery (make sure you use the charge points under the bonnet) measure the voltage engine off key out at the charge points it should read 12.5 to 12.8v below 12v is either dying battery or a dead short somewhere. Once battery is at full charge engine running measure again you shouls see 14.8v indicating a healthy alternator. Engine off key out let the car go to sleep (takes up to 10 mins) then measure amperage at the under bonnet charge points you should se a few milliamps (clock, memory items etc) if your seeing higher you have a paracitic drain which will need tracking down. Check the starter motor a failing one can kill a battery really fast Hope this helps Dave

Morning Paul I believe you can also get an adhesive to stick it back, goes without saying the screen and disc have to be really clean and dry Dave

Morning Steve Where did you get the Battery ? they should have the code. When you say " upgrading " the battery be careful fitting an overrated battery can cause as many issues as a failing one. The correct battery for your car I believe is either a 90ah or 92ah AGM type also check the CCA (ColdCranking Amps) matches I have never used Foxwell to register a Battery only ISTA/INPA but I don't recall needing a 12 digit code just confirmation of the Battery type Have you checked online for any Video help there is a lot out there these days Dave

Morning Kieran Welcome to the Forum This is a new problem, I would start with the power supply where have you taken it from ? If you haven't already I would check a wiring diagram for both models to see where the power was arranged in the M4 and check whether that supply is available in the 140 model. Then check www.realoem.com to see if there are repair/replacement looms available. Your description sounds like a relay is tripping in the power feed Good luck with finding the issue let us know how yoy get on Dave

Morning Cid have you found the 2 screws underneath the very bottom middle of the door card under the storage bin? Once the screws are out then its working around with a trim removal tool to pop out the clips I started at the bottom you should be able to lift/lever the card upwards to release the top edge which is held by spring clips Check the internet for any useful videos that may help Good Luck Dave

Morning Rob A quick look at www.reaoem.com indicates the OEM battery would be standard 110ah but can be changed for 90 or 92ah AGM. Just remember your car has IBS so will need the battery registered to ensure correct charging Good Luck Dave

Morning Bruce Hope the Test Drive goes well and Welcome Back Dave

Morning Kelvin Welcome to the Forum Shipping could be a high cost as we tend to be mainly UK based, good information for our US mambers though Dave

Morning Jorgen Welcome to the Forum You can check on www.realoem.com put the last 7 digits of your Vin into the search box it will call up your model then search the sections for what you need I am not aware of other joints but I have not worked on an X1 so there may be something there. Re-check all work done just in case, check the start relay and all fuses Hope this helps Dave

Morning Peter Mark is spot on with his advice they are great cars and not as scary as many think if you are a DIY home mechanic. Our pot holed roads can wreak havoc on modern alloys tyres and suspension so check tyre condition and signs of uneven wear. History you can check in 3 ways Insurance (HPI) will tell of any untoward incidents Mot history will show if advisories have been attended to or ignored Service history will demonstrate general maintenance and with reciepts any other repairs. Check gearbox services have been done (often ignored) Good Luck with the hunt Dave

Morning Karl My money is still on the battery, simple test disconnect the battery fully charge it and leave it overnight if it looses charge that will confirm it The control unit by the battery is probably the PDC module. Water in the area doesn't help check the floor drains are not blocked (I guess your mechanic will do that) You could also check for a prasitic drain on the battery, battery fully charged car closed apart from the bonnet, let the car go to sleep (all systems off the tell tale by the gearshift will go out) then check at the under bonnet charge points for any discharge. There will be a small milli amp discharge clock etc, anything higher will need investigation Good luck Dave

Hi Daryl Welcome to the Forum First are you sure the Fuel Pump is running in the tank? The system normally self bleeds. You could try releasing air at the fuel rail pressure test schrader valve. Make sure you have plenty of Rag/Paper Towel there as it doesn't take much fuel to make a big mess everywhere. Either take out the schrader valve or depress the nipple while an assistant cycles the ignition for 30 secs or so. I have also heard of attaching a vacuum pump to number 1 injector fuel feed and pulling fuel through into the fuel rail that way, never tried that myself but worth a go. Good Luck Dave

Morning Justin Welcome to the Forum First the I would point out the Post you seem annoyed with (Wtf) is 3 years old ? Second the OP did close out the post by telling everyone it fixed his issue, success, saved a few quid and learned a lot I am sure So not sure what your problem is other than yo clearly wouldn't have done that Dave

Hi Shaun Welcome to the Forum I have read several times about this problem though not seen/suffered one myself From what I read the only solution is change the unit two choices, first BMW I have read £1k+ quotes and long wait times for parts. Second choice a used replacement first use www.realoem.com put the last 7 digits of your Vin into the search box it will call up your model get the Part Number for your car, double click the part number and it should show a list of any alternatives if they are available. Then Google to find the part and check prices Apparently it isn't a major issue to swap a DIY job then get your Mech friend to clear and reset codes Good luck Dave

Hi Steve Cold weather kills batteries get yours checked or charged would be my bet Dave