Greydog

At least you have made some progress not the direction you wanted but some sensible contacts at least. I have always wondered if the astronomical prices BMW ask is to trigger the Trade In thoughts ?? Or maybe I am so old I am a natural cynic 😅 Dave

Hi Gary Welcome to the Forum Take a look at www.realoem.com put the last 7 digits of the Vin into the search box and it will call up your model. Then search the relevant sections (Trim I would think) you should see a small exploded drawing (which helps with fitting) with a list of part numbers, once you have the Part Number the internet or BMW specialist recyclers should track down a source. Hope this helps Dave

Morning Gary Make sure the Garage understand your rear Diff has 3 chambers and 2 types of fluid, they may give you an old fashioned look but safety first Diffs aren't cheap 😁 Dave

Afternoon Was the battery registered to the car correctly ? has the IBS lead been connected ? Good Luck Dave

Hi Chris As the BMW print out supplied indicates a gearbox internal pump issue (3rd Para) there could be a pump failure or low gearbox fluid. From your picture if that's from your car there is a significant leak Just spoke to a contact of mine who said talk to VMPT Cannock they are ZF supported specialists even a rebuilt would be a lot cheaper than BMW's quote Good Luck Dave

Morning Chris Welcome to the Forum First point to make is Main Dealers don't repair anything they change parts at the customers expense (BMW are not alone) £10k must be 2/3rds of the cars value maybe they think you will just buy a new one ??? The gearbox in your car is not made by BMW it is a ZF 8 speed box which is integrated to an electric motor for the hybrid system. These boxes are tough and with correct servicing don't normally give problems sorry but I have no experience of the Hybrid system. Has the Dealer supplied a print out of the diagnostics that lead them to say "New Gearbox" So my course of action would be find a ZF specialist and either take the car there or have it collected/delivered to them. They should carry out a Full Diagnostic of the drive train and tell you what is wrong and what actions are needed. A member on another Forum talked about a specialist in Cannock worth checking out I have read that the most common problems are Delayed shifting between gears, Rough shifts jerky changes, Warning Lights on the dash, Transmission Fluid levels/leaks. I have also read that most issues are software related. Fluid leaks are rare but can occur so a Gearbox service wouldn't hurt. Hope it is a sensible fix Dave

Morning Phil Welcome to the Forum First port of call for me would be Battery if it's original (high possibility) it's 5 years old. To check it properly Voltage should be checked at the charging points under the bonnet (not at the battery) engine off key out, the reading should be 12.5v minimum anything below that indicates a discharged or dying battery. Next test voltage at the same place engine running you should see 14.5v Minimum that indicates healthy charging. Dave

Morning Scott Welcome to the Forum I would start with the Can Bus faults BMW are fond of compressed cable splices that are sealed with a clear silicone cap, if moisture gets in the joint degrades and corrodes leading to all sorts of issues. I have never investigated a 1 series but the picture is my own E70 you can see the black staining (corrosion) the joints on the left (green and orange wires) are Can Bus on my car the joints literally fell apart when I moved them, I remade the joint (solder and shrink wrap) I did all the joints you see ran diagnostics and all faults could be cleared and no return. Get a wiring diagram and trace the Can Bus, I use ISTA which has wiring diagrams and joint position in it so easier (not easy) to find Good hunting Dave

Morning Gary I am not aware of these Ball joints being available I have a bearing press (Home made) so have refurbed quite a few suspension parts for E53 and E60 E70. Normally I have pressed out the old bushes and pressed in new, Lemforder and Mahle have been OEM suppliers and I have not had any issues with their bushes. If reusing the arm and ball joints, I take off the rubber boot wash out all the old grease and refill the joint fiddly but not difficult then fit a new rubber boot. I have also changed upper and lower suspension arms on my own E70 and for ease and speed used a kit which had replacement arms all fitted without problem (note: BMW use a 12point ball joint locking nut most kits come with Nyloc nuts for the ball joint) as long as everything is torqued correctly no issues should occur. I would fit new inner bolts with either with threadloc or nyloc nuts (personal preference Nyloc) Again make sure everything is torqued correctly, the upper wishbones outer bolts score high on the cuss list if on your own 😁 If fitting bushes it is important to make sure the suspension is in it's loaded position before final tightening or premature failure will occur. Poly bushes allow rotation so this isn't necessary A source of clonks is a fibre pad that is under the suspension top mount often missed, take look at www.realoem.com Good Luck with the changes Dave

Hi John Welcome to the Forum As you have no doubt read this appears to be a problem that BMW seem to think their customers should pay for, I would contact BMW Customer Services UK to see if they will do the honourable thing. After all this is a road safety issue. I know of 2 people who have sourced replacements from the Internet due to BMW silly prices Good Luck Dave

Morning Cyril Welcome to the Forum My simple question to the Dealer would be "as the car in it's current state is not suitable for purpose" they should either swap the screen/infotainment system, if they can't or wont do that then a complete replacement car or money back. That may seem harsh but many Dealers think that giving a Courtesy car relieves them of the need to find a resolution often leaving it to Manufacturer Representatives. While a Courtesy car is OK for a couple of days it isn't what you brought. Pile on the pressure. Hope they Sort it Dave

Morning Matt Welcome to the Forum Try a different Dealer Check www.realoem.com put the last 7 digits of your Vin into the search box then search the trim section. You should find the part number for what you want then do an Internet search. Dont forget the used market try the specialist dismantlers such as Quarry Motors Good luck Dave

Morning Peter Welcome to the Forum Looks like you have it covered with your self diagnosis Check the loom carefully plus the lamp connector a good spray with contact cleaner wont hurt. check the earth connections as well Dave

Yay great result Christine Here's to you enjoying your Beemer now Dave

Hi Graham Welcome to the Forum The issue is most likely the sealing washers on the fitting. Bit of a faff getting to it but the oil feed pipes rarely give problems unless some heavy handed so and so has damaged them so changing the sealing washers should fix your problem Dave

Morning Craig It definitely needs a silicone sticky pad as you have proved if it is correctly fitted it works Check www.realoem.com if you haven't already Dave

Hi Andrew On the side of the steering column you should see a Key symbol I am told the sequence should be New Fob in hand get in and with all doors and windows closed Hold the New Fob against the Key symbol Foot on the brake and hold the start button for 5 secs. The car should enter accessory mode (lights on the dash) foot of the brake and press the start button light go out. Now hold down the Unlock button and press the Logo/Lock button 3 times, release the unlock button. The car should lock and unlock. The Fob should now be Programmed Good Luck Dave

Morning Andrew Is it a NEW key or a BMW key brought online ? If it is new from BMW then try this Sit in the car all doors and windows closed Next, insert your working key into the ignition and turn it to position 1, which will turn on the dashboard lights and accessories. Do not start the engine at this point. Once the dash lights and accessories are on, turn the key back and remove it from the ignition. Take the already programmed and working BMW key fob, and hold down the unlock button. While still holding the unlock button, press the BMW logo button (also known as the lock button) three times. After pressing the logo button three times, you can release the unlock button. The doors should automatically lock and unlock, indicating that the programming was successful. Now, take the new BMW key fob that you want to program, and repeat the same process. Hold down the unlock button, press the BMW logo button three times, and then release the unlock button. Once the doors lock and unlock, the programming is complete, and you can use the new key fob to start your BMW. If the key has been used before or is a Key with a BMW Logo you may struggle Good Luck hope this helps Dave

Yay great news Tino You cant keep a determined man down 🤣🤣 Dave

Hi Stewart Welcome to the Forum I hope they get it sorted for you soon A bit like the film Apollo 13 where Tom Hanks says some thing like "Here we are sat on top of a million parts all supplied by the lowest bidder" Sadly these days most Manufacturers buy in more parts than they actually make themselves. When there is an issue the paying customer, us. is often caught up in a tangle of inter company wrangling before there is a sensible resolution Dave

Hi John Welcome to the Forum Your assumption of head gasket needs confirming, vapour and emulsions can have other causes. Whatever the cause it will need fixing often the cost of repair is less than the cost of changing a car. Talk to some local garages get quotations and estimates then you can make an informed decision Dave

Morning Andrew Welcome to the Forum Where did the key come from ? If it is an Internet special it could get difficult Stu on hear has done it but not sure what program he used. If it is from BMW then there are several "How Too's" online Dave

Morning Nick Looks like you have a transmission fault😁 either the Gearbox is in Limp mode or it won't select gears. The Diagnostics (looks like ISTA) are telling you where the issues are, work through them and clear them one by one, often faults are related clear one and others disappear. The main highlighted fault state is No Communication with the Gearbox Control Unit. I would start with the Gearbox fuses check them all, next the wiring loom (continuity) and the gearbox connector, unplug it and check and clean all the pins (good electrical contact cleaner) Next are there any signs of leaks from the connector plug seals check the fluid level. Note: Your box is I believe GM so make sure if topping up you have the correct fluids. Better to carryout a full service if not already done. I have read that some early GM boxes had Mechatronic issues the needed a replacement unit (not cheap) so fingers crossed. Dave

Get the correct silicone pad or it will give problems again. Either a Dealer or my solution Auto Windscreens who also had some wipes to clean the screen Dave

Morning Barry Welcome to the Forum At a guess either the lamp (bulb) is incorrect or the connector is not connected correctly. Back track very carefully over what has been done. If that doesn't clear it then a diagnostic needs to be carried out Dave