Greydog

Have you checked the actual speakers for water ingress ? Have you checked the earth points not sure if the replacement you have ordered will need registration to your chassis or not. Your original could be checked and repaired try someone like ECU Testing or Cartronix then no registration issues Good Luck Dave

Morning Michael Welcome to the Forum Beautiful cars , if you are not aware take a look at www.realoem.com put the last 7 digits of your Vin into the search box it will bring up your model then search the relevent section the small exploded drawings are useful guides plus you will have correct part numbers. Another useful site is www.pelicanparts.com it has an articles section with how to's with pictures also get yourself a good BMW capable diagnostic program INPA/ISTA is best but now there are several others available Good luck with your projects Dave

I guess it is carry a Spare Gallon and let it drop below a 1/4 tank if the Gauge keeps reading below a 1.4 it should indicate the senders are working. Assuming from your first post before gauge stopped reading at 1/4 and stayed there. Dave

Morning Richard When you say you cleared them did they stay cleared? Or are they back ? have you checked the left level sensor ? Have you checked www.realoem.com to see if you have 2 level sensors? Dave

Hi Paul Water pump leak also check the trans cooler for weeps the O rings can weep Dave

Hi Richard Have the codes been cleared after changing the fuel pump and sender ? If not that is where I would start also try disconnecting the Battery (Neg First) for around 30 mins. If the codes wont clear normally a sign that either sender is at fault or there is a wiring issue check the earths. Dave

Morning Stuart Welcome to the Forum My neighbours Mini is sitting on 7x17 inch wheels with the same size tyres as yours she has them at 34psi The tyre pressure monitoring system could have a fault with one wheel. Not sure which system your Mini runs if your car has a metal tyre valve stem it could be a fail of that sensor not that expensive (available on several Auction sites. The pain obviously is the tyre has to be removed to change it. I believe early cars used the ABS sensors checking wheel rotation at each corner. A scan should be able to tell what the fault is or you could try disconnecting the battery for around 30 mins (Neg first ) to see if that resets things Good Luck Dave

Whoop Whoop Whoop What a great result Tino pleased for you Dave

Morning Mark Welcome to the Forum Take a look at www.realoem.com put the last 7 digits of your Vin into the search box it should bring up your Model. Then search steering, double click the part number and you should get a list of alternate part numbers. All of those part will be marked if they will fit. Also you will see what other models they were fitted to after fitting you will need a service code to get it working correctly Dave

Morning Hunter Check the Battery and its connections really carefully Double check the IBS sensor and cable. If you look at www.realoem.com put the last 7 digits of your Vin into the search box it will bring up your Model. Then check the Battery section Will the car start with a Jump Start? Make sure you only jumpstart at the terminals under the bonnet. Check alternator output (it should be 14.5v or there abouts) Is the Battery OK if it is 11v or less it is dead. Dave

Morning Chris The Reverse Camera may have disturbed the Video feed fingers crossed replacing it will sort the issue. Try disconnecting the battery for 30 mins Neg first (a Dealer trick) it will reset any simple fault codes Good Luck Dave

HI Chris That is always a starting point go over what ever was done recently to see if anything was left undone or disturbed Dave

Welcome to the Forum Dave

Hi Lucas Welcome to the Forum I am not aware that the 116d had a cut off switch (I stand to be corrected as I haven't seen many) I would look elsewhere Furl Pump. Fuel pump relay Crank sensor, all fuses checked and OK. A Diagnostic session may be the wat forward Dave

Morning Nev Welcome to the Forum Serious cars, only two things to be said ENJOY 😁 and Jealous (Mind I wouldn't get the dogs in) Dave

Morning Joe Been there not a nice place to be with huge quotes from Dealer (new trans £5k ) and Specialist (rebuild £2.5k) I decided to spend out on Fluid and filters to see if I could flush it through. I used a technique that worked on Volvo's here it is for what it's worth and it works First drain and refill the transmission (Tip make sure you can undo the fill plug before you drain it) I brought enough Fluid for 2 flushes and a refill plus 2 filters After the initial refill run the engine and go through the normal gear selection routine. The next part you will need some clear hose that will fit onto the return pipe from the transmission cooler (the rear one on your transmission I believe) and a clearish plastic container so you can see what's in it, I used a windscreen wash container and put a mark on the side at around 3ltrs, now with the help of an assistant run the engine watch the fluid going into the container at the mark engine off and replace the return pipe empty the waste fluid into a disposal drum I have an old 5 gallon drum. Then repeat two more times, the last time don't refill drop the pan and change the filter make sure you can catch any fluid left in the pan. By now with 6 or 7 litres through the box you should have flushed the Torque converter as well. Now repeat the process all fluid should now be looking pretty new but I didn't cut corners this time 4 flush throughs. The last same routine don't fill drain the pan of the last fluid, drop it and change the filter. Put it all back together and refill run it up to temp and check the levels and your done In my case it was the Transmission on my E53 4.6is it has covered more than 50k since still smooth in operation. I use this method when carrying out a gearbox service these days a little more expensive fluid than (not changing filters twice just once) a drain and refill but always clears the torque converter. Good Luck hope this helps Dave

Welcome to the Forum Andy Enjoy your Beemer Dave

Wowser's Tino Happy New Year (belated) you are starting where you left off I see !! You have gone through some serious detective work with that car. Hope Sunday brings success Dave

Hi Andy Welcome to the Forum Check the brake backplate is secure I have seen 2 recently with rusted backplates moving and causing odd noises. Drive Shafts and Prop shaft all OK? Also worth checking the under trays a loose under tray flapping around can give odd noises too Dave

Hi Paul Welcome to the Forum If the self levelling warning is on then there is a fault probably with the self levelling sensor which will need checking/repairing/replacing. Remember if the headlamp aim is out of alignment it is a fail anyway. If you check www.realoem.com put the last 7 digits of your Vin into the search box and look at the headlight section the small exploded drawing will help with location then check whether the sensor is stuck or the plug connection is in need of cleaning. If that doesn't clear your light then change the sensor the correct part number will be on realoem Dave PS Allfuses have been checked I hope

Hi If it isn't oil in the header tank it could be lining from one of the hoses if any of them are soft it is normally an indication that they near end of life Good luck Dave

Hi Wayne Welcome to the Forum Just do a search for Android Screens for the F30 BMW that is the route I would take. I did this with my E70 the original screen was the small 8.8" screen that had a few dead pixels plus the Sat Nav was dated. 3 years ago I chose an Erisin Unit which was very easy to fit really Plug and Play it gives me a 10.25" screen with better resolution better Sat Nav choices (without the Faff/Cost of BMW upgrades) Bluetooth Android Auto/CarPlay and of course a load of Apps I will never use 😂 It also retains all the OEM functions of the CiC so you can switch between the Android or OEM function using the standard i-Drive controller Just check them out Dave

Hi Ruben Welcome to the Forum White smoke at this time of year is often condensation in the exhaust, does it clear after a short time running ( as the engine warms) or is it continuous? You mention Gunk where is it building up? A pressure test of the cooling system and a sniff test for fuel/oil in the header tank will tell you if it is engine related. If you are not aware take a look at www.realoem.com put the last 7 digits of your Vin into the search box it will bring up your model. Then search the sections for the information you need take a look at all the coolant hoses and where they are so you can check for any leaks. Hoses wear and with age often get porous. Good Luck Dave

Morning John Yes the battery should have been disconnected, with luck you could try disconnecting the battery (Neg first) for at least 30 mins (a dealer trick)to reset fault codes. If that doesn't clear it then you will need a good BMW friendly Diagnostic program to reset and clear the codes. Good luck Dave

Morning Andrew I wonder if when the clutch was changed the return springs fitted were the correct ones? Not sure about your model but I know some had a compression spring assembly and some had a normal helper spring Maybe the clutch was changed because it was heavy? Just thinking out loud here as a clutch change wouldn't touch the pedal assembly may be something is seized in the peddle/return spring area Maybe worth looking at realoem for some indication or maybe if it is the compression spring assembly see if it can be serviced or replaced in case it's worth a look Good luck Bud Dave