Greydog

Morning Steve I would think it is Xenon D1 35w (That is what was in my neighbours 3 series touring same vintage as yours) but check on www.realoem.com to be sure Dave

Morning Alison Welcome to the Forum If the mats you have are not OEM they won't have the anti slip Velcro or Studs to keep them in place Take a look at www.realoem.com put the last 7 digits of your Vin number into the search box it will bring up your model then search the trim section for the item you need make a note of the Part Number. Once you have the part number do a Google search for the best supplier/price don't dismiss BMW Dismantlers they often have mats in perfect condition. Then of course there is your local BMW Dealer not cheap but you know they will fit Dave

Hi Paul I talked with my MOT garage and got the same advice as you had, they said they were seeing tyres around 3 years old with visible signs of cracking in the sidewalls As you say all we can do is keep a close watch at MOT time

An expert is among us 🤪 the information I supplied is taken from BMW TIS Workshop Information plus having repaired a few So rather than throw out insults and innuendo try telling us how you fixed the issue with yours Also try reading the Post it was dated 2018

Morning Neville When a Regen is occurring the engine has to have reached a high operating temp so doubtful at start up Dave

Hi Neville Sounds as though something is loose in the exhaust a baffle may be Hope the garage can sort it Dave

Take care missing emission control equipment is an automatic MOT fail so removal could end up costing more than you think. I know lots of people will tell you "they can't tell" a friend of our son had EGR and DPF delete and remap great for a year then 2 garages failed it for MOT cost of replacement was almost the cost of the car. Dave

Hi Chris Welcome to the Forum Check your hand book for the correct switch and i-Drive settings Dave

Hi Antonio Welcome to the Forum I have never seen a B7 in the flesh only read about them, from what I remember the engine uses modified twin scroll Turbo chargers so will not be cheap to repair/replace I also thought the B7 was introduced in 2016 so not sure what model you actually have? Dave

Then I would say your battery is dead the recent cold weather probably tipped it over the edge. New battery will probably sort it check that the battery is correct for the car and registered to ensure correct charging Dave

There has to be something missing bent or out of kilter, Eibach are a well recognised make but there is always the chance that an odd length is in the kit. I fitted a lowering kit to one of our Sons friends 3 series but he brought adjustable all round. Took a morning to fit then the following day after it had settled a couple of hours fiddling getting it sitting right (well how he wanted it) That was about 2 years ago and he as far as I know is still happy Dave

If the glow plugs have been in there since new (not unknown) they can be a sod to get out so soak them with a good penetrating fluid for a few days before or pay a garage As an aside I have a friend who has a Range Rover same vintage same engine similar mileage always totally reliable until last year when it started acting like yours. When we finally got the glow plugs out 5 of them had pretty much disintegrated the last one had no resistance so wasn't working. After changing them and the controller (same Parts as yours) he said it is like a new car again Good Luck

Hi John Welcome to the Forum I hope when you tried to jump start the car it was at the Charge Points under the bonnet ?? If you tried at the battery with it connected you can cause damage. There is a fused link on the battery but I have never known one blow. Using a multi meter measure battery out put any thing below 10 or 11v indicates a dead or dying battery My guess is a Dead battery Dave

Hi Paul The www.realoem.com site is a BMW online parts site the same as the dealers use. In Europe BMW don't allow access so you will notice the site indicates costs in US$ The main reason for using the site is to ensure you have the right parts/part numbers. I use it for part numbers then Google the part number for the best price. If you double click the part number it will bring up a list of alternate numbers/models the part was used on. If all the bits are there and in good nick then check the mounting on the body and the rear axel subframe for damage if they are OK then I would measure very carefully the springs just in case that one is an odd one, sorry can't think of anything else at the moment Dave

In that case you could have a damaged or missing spring platform mounting part or possibly bump stop Take a look at www.realoem.com put the last 7 digits of your Vin into the search box it will call up your model then search the rear axel section The small exploded drawing will show what mounting parts should have been there Fingers crossed it is something simple a split bump stop or spring mount Dave

Morning Paul Diesels fire on compression not ignition so require good fuel pressure, good compression and good cranking speed with those the engine will run. In cold weather the Glow plugs raise cylinder temperatures to aid fuel atomization and help starting. So if I were checking I would begin with the battery, is it in good condition and fully charged, only charge from the charge points under the bonnet or remove the battery from the car. Check the starter is in good condition Magnetti starters did cause issues at one point with E53's. Is fuel pressure correct (when was the fuel filter last changed?) I would still check the Glow plugs and Glow Plug controller and loom for chaffing or cracks. Dave

Morning Paul Welcome to the Forum How did he lower the car ? I hope he didn't try and do it on the cheap and cut the springs !!?? The only way to do the job properly is with a set of lowering springs (as a minimum). If it were my car I would go for a set of Coil overs with adjustable spring platforms Dave

Hi Stacey Make sure if you only charge the battery at the Charge points under the bonnet or remove the battery from the car for charging. If you charge at the battery with it connected to the car you could cause electrical issues. After overnight charging test the battery if it isn't showing 12.5/12.8v then it would be a battery failure that's your problem Dave

Morning Stacey Welcome to the Forum Don't understand how your measuring the Battery ? The only way is with a multimeter at the charging points under the bonnet. A healthy battery fully charged should show 12.5 to 12.8volts engine off 14.5+v engine running I would say your problem is battery but I would check it properly first Dave

Morning Henry Welcome to the Forum I guess by your request you are in the USA and referring to the Original Sales window sticker telling you what was fitted to the car at build time? You can use a BMW Vin De-coder website put the Vin number in and it will bring up the Factory Build Sheet also check the Service History My routine when inspecting a second user car whether for me or family and friends is the same. Start with the bodywork checking for damage and/or signs of repair, Happy then on to the interior especially high wear items pedals gear change and steering wheel seats etc look for wear replacements can be expensive. Open the Bonnet/Hood make sure the engine is cold then back inside and start the engine (it should start easily and run smoothly) check every accessory fitted works as it should again there are few cheap fixes so the "old never use that so it didn't bother me" or "they are only a few £/$ on Ebay" excuses should either be negotiating tools or a walk away signal. Then drive the car again make sure it is smooth and no creaks groans bangs or knocks from the suspension. Depending on your mechanical skills or Wallet they are negotiating points or walk away signals Good Luck with the search Dave

As the newer petrol models have a similar exhaust filter ?? Not read anything about the newer Petrols yet so can't comment My 3.0d X5 has a DPF and my mileage is below 5k these days but at least once a month it gets a good work out at motorway speeds which so far is keeping it clear So difficult choice more MPG against the possibility of lower maintenance Dave

I would say you need to check/change the water control vale and properly bleed the system Dave

I take it you have checked www.realoem.com for any clues ? If you have INPA/ISTA check TIS as that should give you BMW workshop information. Dave

Morning Antony Welcome to the Forum As your car is normally aspirated I would say between 8% and 10% so if your engine is in good condition it should be giving around 330bhp so a re-map will give around 360bhp max. If your looking for more then you will need to spend quite a bit more on mechanical upgrades Dave

Morning Getting there now, check www.realoem.com put the last 7 digits of your Vin number into the search box it will call up your model then check the roof and trim sections for what you need, don't forget any clips and fasteners The small exploded drawings should help identify how things go together. As for sources once you have the Part Numbers BMW Dealers then the internet just google the Part numbers Good Hunting Dave