Greydog

Morning Tony Welcome to the Forum First start with a search for the correct part number for your car use www.realoem.com (if you are not aware it is an online BMW parts list) put the last 7 digits of your Vin into the search box it will bring up your model, then search the Exhaust section (is your car EU3, EU5, EU6) Once you have the correct part number use it to find the best supplier/price (£300 to £400) would be my expectation remember you may have to add clamps and gaskets to the price. If the part is correct fitting should be straight forward it will however need setting up. Depending on labour cost I would guess the whole job to be £800 to £1000 depending on what additional parts are needed Remember you can't just bolt it on, the ECU has to be set up to know the car has a new DPF (your garage should know that) Also make sure the Glow plugs and Controller are working correctly or the Regen cycle wont work correctly. Hope that helps Dave

Morning Paul I would expect a Dealership to understand the Diagnostic programme, however as they say "never Assume" As an old (very) engineer I was always taught to treat a fault as a symptom rather than the actual cause. Sadly modern thinking and diagnostics have lead to a part swapping culture quite often at the Clients cost. I would start by getting a really good electrical contact cleaner, then first disconnect the battery unplug the Footwell module (also called FRM) and clean and check all the plugs and pins, if all good put it back and repeat with the Junction box (JBE) if all good reconnect the battery carry out a diagnostic. Record any faults then clear the active faults if there are any. The screen shot below shows the cars control unit tree not shown is the JBE the Yellow and Blue lines at the top come from there, the JBE manages the 2 main communication lines. On the left 3 down is the CAS (Comfort Access System) second line at the bottom FRM (Footwell Module) third blue line is the Most bus Infotainment In the screen shot you can see the IHKA in yellow (investigation shows Aux Water Pump) far right the DDE is yellow as 2 glow plugs are not working. The control tree for your car will depend on the original build sheet for equipment but at least you can see how things are linked. As your issue is intermittent my thought process is more loose or corroded pin on one of the connection plugs on either the JBE (on the side of the fuse box) or the Footwell module Hope this helps Dave

Hi Paul As the fault is intermittent it always a mission to track down, INPA/ISTA will show faults present and faults not present but recorded in the history. So if INPA/ISTA was used I would have expected the fault to be seen Many garages just clear faults then see what comes back (not helpful at times) The fact that your radio seems to be linked to the fault occurrence makes me think the issue is with either the Footwell Module or Junction Box as these modules are the ones that link the two systems (Radio is on the MOST Bus circuit Doors are I believe K-Can) Dave

Hi Paul I would from that description suspect a Footwell Module or Junction Box fault a diagnostic scan with a good BMW capable system should confirm (Best is BMW INPA/ISTA) Dave

Hi Albert Welcome to the Forum As the keys are linked to the cars Comfort access system, Alarm and Immobiliser I am not sure a Second Hand Key would be an Option. I know that the older Bladed keys could be recoded but just not sure about the newer generations, though I have read of a couple of people offering Key Coding services how reliable and effective they are I have no idea. I have to say I would think twice about allowing someone access to my car for that type of service ?? £600 may seem steep (it is but BMW have never been cheap) but it may be the safe option Just my thoughts Dave

Morning Richard Welcome to the Forum When you say "maximum" tyre depth are you looking at the side wall (between the ground and the wheel rim) ? Those tyre sizes are correct for the wheels you have, however depending on build spec and country 16" wheels fitted with 205x55x16 front 225x50x16 rear or 225x45x17 front 255x40x17 rear (Note both theses options also came as a set of 4 wheels same as the front size) 18" were also available in225x40 front and 255x35 rear If you are considering a wheel change check care fully the the new wheels fit with the brakes on your car If you are asking because you are finding the ride hard/harsh then there are some additional things to check Suspension starting with springs (are they stock) Shock Absorbers as they age they may harden in action Suspension Bushes these are rubber and again harden and crack giving a harsh jolty ride Hope this helps not hinders 😁 Dave

Morning David I think Stu was referring to the Oil Filler Cap not the Oil Filter Depending on how competent you are with spanners the codes you have indicate Vanos issues it could be just the sensor or it could be the actual vanos mechanism is sticking. Clearing a code doesn't fix an issue just resets it, if replacing the Vanos Sensor doesn't fix the problem the the Vanos mechanism needs removing cleaning and servicing new seals etc. If not you need a Garage/Mechanic who can do the work for you Dave

Hi Stuart Welcome to the Forum There are after market cameras the fit like the OEM ones in the trunk/boot lid release handle spot it is linked through the PDC but you may need a video handling unit? I t depends on the cars original spec Dave

Hi Jerry You say Shocks, arms, springs OK what about Anti Roll Bar bushes and links ? Have you checked the Sub Frame mounts ? Also worth checking the engine mounts ? Is the Engine reinforcement plate in place and tight. As you feel it in the footwell my best guess is Anti Roll Bar bushes Dave

Hi Steve As the car is still under warranty why not get the Dealer to sort it ? It may be simple "a learning process for you and the car" or possibly a software upgrade ? Dave

Morning Jerry BMW use a complicated spring rating system the Dealer will need Chassis Number etc etc and then a Body Part as a deposit 😅 Bilstien are OEM suppliers among others so that is where I would start for Springs and Shocks Dave

Morning Jo Welcome to the Forum I have read about how to do this but have never had to do it myself, so here goes 1) If your starter still rotates and the ignition can be on So, the engine may be dead, but when you push the start button, the BMW still makes some noises and turns some lights. This is the good news because this is the easiest way to put your car in neutral. Here's what you should do: Apply the handbrake to hold your car in place and safely operate. Apply the footbrake and don't release the pedal until you finish the procedure. Push the start button - the starter will start rotating and you may immediately continue. Push the unlock button on your select lever and hold it until you finish with the settings. Put the lever from the P position to the N position and hold it there for at least 4 seconds. Then put it back in the P position for a while. Quickly put the lever into the N position and then right away to the P position again. Release the unlock button on your lever. Release the footbrake. Now, the display should show N and the transmission should go to neutral, the wheels will be unlocked. But this won't last forever. After 15 minutes, the transmission will be blocked again. This is made for the safety of the vehicle to avoid rolling back or forward. 2) If the engine and the battery are dead If the ignition doesn't even try to turn on, you can't use this official method because nothing will work. In this case, you will need to know where the transmission lock screw is located. It's under the vehicle near the transmission. Find it and see what kind of instrument you need for unscrewing it. Unfortunately, there is no proper instruction for all BMW models. But usually, you will need to unscrew this bolt and then the wheels will be released up until you screw it back. 3) Does the orange tool work? Yes, newer BMWs will have a special orange tool and you will have to insert it into the emergency gear release hole and turn. This is the easiest way and it will work with both alive and dead engines. But most BMWs don't have this system, so remember the two options that will work with nearly all BMW cars equipped with automatic transmission Just hope one of these works Dave

Well that was fun first ISTA wouldn't acknowledge the EHC (Electronic Height Controller) took it out cleaned the pins back in now I could see it but it wouldn't allow Calibration ?? So go at it from a different angle inflate airbags individually. All of a sudden back to normal, ride height recalibrated 🤣 Hope thats the end of the story Dave

Morning Paul Welcome to the Forum I have no Hybrid experience other than riding in one 😁 Like Manufacturer quoted MPG for Petrol and Diesel models most figures are laboratory maximums (probably with all accessories shut down) and real world driving shows them up. After 3 or 4 years I would expect battery efficiency to have fallen off a little and from what I read most testers have found around 40miles to be a real world optimum. Dave

Morning Jerry All straight forward stuff, even easier if you have access to a lift. If not the get the car as high as possible and well supported on axel stands. Gearbox I use ZF parts and Longlife fluid last service parts Fluid Filter gaskets etc cost £250 as a kit (Tip make sure you can undo the filler plug first) If your car has Dynamic Drive rear diff it will nave 3 compartments requiring 2 different oils 2 outer chambers use a Carbon Modified SAE 75 80 oil (i buy from BMW it comes in measured .5ltr bottles) the main Diff section uses a standard 75 90 (I use Liquid Moly) same tip make sure you can undo the filler plugs first I know two people who drained the diff and couldn't move the filler plug !! Front Diff Oil and Transfer case fluid I buy from BMW, the transfer case drain plug is a Faff to get to BMW drop the Transfer case support frame, I brought a stubby Hex drive set so I could get at it If you have INPA/ISTA there are Workshop directions and guides Good luck Dave

Hi Paul Welcome to the Forum You need a good Independent Garage but one with BMW capable diagnostics or a BMW Specialist who will have the kit and knowledge There is a Register of BMW Specialists which you could Google which should give you some local contacts Poor servicing is sadly quite common due to (a) many modern cars can have the service indicator reset without work (b) extended service intervals due to modern oils some up to 30k are just nuts. That means a car with 70k may only have had 2 services ?? The only real evidence is a good old stamped book and a wedge of receipts Hope this helps Dave

Morning Steve Welcome to the Forum I believe there are several Videos on the internet that deal with turning off Comfort Access/Keyless entry Hope this helps Dave

Well when the bag went boom it really did go BOOM Both sides changed sensors changed solenoid vale changed then the monsoon arrived 🤣 knew I should have done it in the garage Still just got to fire up ISTA tomorrow and register the new sensors and calibrate the suspension ride height

Morning Update 2 All Parts are here Solenoid Valve, Air Bags, and Ride Height sensors so 3 guess's what I will be doing today 😅 Dave

Morning Welcome to the Forum Are you wanting to upgrade all 4 callipers or just the fronts ? Is the reason for upgrade performance related or for show ? Upgrading Callipers, first check what brake disc sizes are standard on your car as you may need to consider Disc's and Callipers together. If replacing Discs and Callipers make sure you have clearance in the wheel to clear your new brakes so you may also need Wheels/Tyres you can check www.realoem.com for what original equipment is on your car and what was available for say M Sport or M series cars Dave

Morning, Update 1 Lots of digging both ride height sensors test out correctly compressor is fine the only thing in my digging testing head scratching and reading is the Solenoid Valve on the compressor. Although the solenoid valve tests OK my conclusion is one side has been sticking and not allowing the lowering/levelling function. Course of action now is 2 new air springs 2 new ride height sensors and a new solenoid valve block, once fitted inflated leak tested and calibrated things should be good again Dave

Morning Germaine Welcome to the Forum Your post raises more questions than advice I am afraid 1. How many miles has the car covered 2. What type of journeys short local less than 5 miles or Motorway 3. When was the car last serviced ? Then we may have some clues to help you Dave

Well I was feeling smug as the X has been running so well but it must have been talking to Stu's 😁 Wednesday the passenger rear suspension decided to inflate to the max 5" higher than the drivers side had to drive home but because the cassis is being twisted it begins to rapidly wear the inside edge of the passenger rear and the outside edge of the drivers front !! New tyres are booked anyway but could do without this. Get home OK next morning plug in and using ISTA look for issues a few I knew of (Glow plug controller and rear fog light) but no air suspension errors darn. Ride height sensors tested OK Compressor OK Control Unit OK ?? So into the diagnostic's program and calibrate and reset the ride height. Then an hour ago it did it again passenger side to the max but this time the airbag gave up and burst. Looks like I have a fun week ahead first find out why ? Then replace the airbags and reset everything again maybe change the ride height sensor as a precaution Update later Dave

Morning Peter Welcome to the Forum The only thought I have is you have an Analogue Dash (fixed Clocks) and you have seen cars with Digital Dash panels ? To go the BMW OEM route I think would be expensive to say the least £££ I have read of a company in the UK who have developed Digital Dash retrofit kits called Demonized UK. From what I have read they are very good though I have never seen one or used them may be worth a Google search Nice Motor by the way ENJOY Dave

Morning Michael Only one thing to say really ENJOY Dave