Greydog

Out shooting Thursday got to keep my dogs busy 🤣🤣 Good luck Stu

Hi Alexander Welcome to the Forum Not an easy one to solve as the base line is long gone and unknown, to my way of thinking everything is sooted heavily so everything needs cleaning/changing to remove as much crud as possible from the system. Inlet manifold, Turbo, Exhaust downpipe and Cat. When you are sure everything is clean then reset all codes (Don't know what diagnostic you use but a BMW capable one is essential) If the soot is baked hard in places it may take a few attempts at cleaning to remove it, check all Vac lines and air lines that could be blocked (they will feel hard) May be find a Garage who can do a full Carbon clean (the chemical one) Once all is clean and you know the Turbo is operating as it should then you have a base line to set up against Dave

Morning All the Throttle issues I have seen (quite a few over the last 20 years) only 1 was pedal related all the others were Throttle Body issues Just changed one on my neighbours 330i estate he brought it from the Bay £100 came with s 10 year warrnty, took longer to take all the engine covers off than to change it very smooth now. He had been having intermitent problems for the last few weeks but the recent weather convinced him to live with it untill it died on the M23 Dave

Morning Jenni The Media screen needs all connections checking if that isnt it then a Diagnostic scan should show if it is screen related or CiC related. So it looks like you need help from either a Garage with BMW capable diagnostics or a Good Auto Electrician If it is the screen your choices are a straight replacement (a used one will be cheaper) or an Android conversion straight forward swap and not expensive. Hope This Helps Dave

Looks like time to test the Warranty on the Throttle Body Stu Was it a new one ? Dave

Morning Andrew If he has a decent scanner he should be able to sort it for you Have a Great Chritmas Dave

👏👍

Morning Kevin Welcome to the Forum 2 years since the last service ??? Just because Dealers advertise 30k between services doesn't mean it is good for the car? it is good for the sales campaign (reduced cost for the customer) and while new means the car will take it. All sorts of things can start to fail with age (I know I am old) Spark Plugs I would take a bet that the ones in the car are original. Coil Packs can fail and degrade the ones on the car are probably 15 years old now. Google the Register of BMW Specialists there will be one near to you get them to carry out a FULL service and diagnostic scan. Yes it will cost a few ££ but will be a lot cheaper than the cost and agravation of changing the car. Dave

Hi Mark I would question whoever is telling you they are to Long, clearly their knowledge base is missing something Enjoy your Beemer Dave

Yay well done that man 😆 Dave

Morning Roland As far as I am aware as long as the battery fits dimensionally and is the correct capacity it only needs registering to ensure correct charging. You can check on www.realoem.com just put the last 7 digits of your Vin into the search box then check Electrical Section from memory AGM batteries were a standard fitting Dave

Hi Stu I saw the headunit in your Video the sensors light up starting green and change colour the closer you get, that is what I meant by visible warning Mine start Green then Yellow, Orange, Red, Thud (that one makes your face red) Dave

Hi Mark Welcome to the Forum You can check yourself by using www.realoem.com put the last 7 digits of your Vin into the search box it will bring up your model then search front axel components. If you aren't aware realoem is an online BMW parts list as used by Main Dealers For your year from memory you could be 640d or 640d LCI also your car could have steel or dynamic stabilizer set up (not sure if that makes a difference to the tie rod) Hope this helps Dave

Morning Where is your wire connected at the Clutch master cylinder cap ? or do you have a switch at the pedal pivot ? Dave

Morning Erick Welcome to the Forum At a guess from your brief description the 30 G-F relay is at fault or failing If the relay is failing circuits can remain ON when they should shut down killing battery power, when this condition occurs check Battery Voltage at the under bonnet terminals anything below 12v is not good. Get a good wiring diagram identify and change the relay, fully charge the battery If it helps here is the current relay designations Terminal New Name Description Terminal 0Terminal 0 is a logical terminal and does not provide a power supply. Terminal 0 comprises Terminal 30, Terminal 30B and Terminal 30F.Terminal 15Terminal 15/Terminal 15NTerminal 15 is used to signal the status “Ignition ON/Ignition OFF” rather than as a power supply. That applies, for instance, in the case of the digital motor electronics (DME), the footwell module (FRM) and BMW Night Vision. Terminal 15 N (Overrun) is used for control units and electrical loads operating at status “Ignition ON” when the vehicle is being driven. That applies, for instance, to the lane departure warning (SWW), short range radar (SRR) and Night Vision.Terminal 15WUPTerminal 15 Wake-up is used to wake up control units that can not be woken up by bus communication.Terminal 30Control units and components that must continue to function up to the point when the battery is completely discharged are connected directly to the continuous positive, Terminal 30. That relates to units such as the Car Access System 4, roof function center and the junction box module.Terminal 30gTerminal 30BTerminal 30 Basic is used for control units and electrical loads operating when the driver is present. That applies primarily to components such as the seat module, digital motor electronics (DME), gearbox control unit (EGS), Controller and CD changer.Terminal 30g_fTerminal 30FTerminal 30 Fault is used for control units operating in the driver’s absence. That applies, for instance, to the trailer module (AHM), footwell module (FRM), instrument cluster and automatic climate control module (IHKA).Terminal 50Terminal 50 is provided for controlling the starter motor.Terminal R Hope this helps Dave

Morning Stu The fact that ignition on no engine everything is working but engine start causes the problem would to me suggest a chaffed wire in the starter circuit that is sending power to the sensors/sounder. Thinking out loud here, I would start with the sounder circuit. If the sounder is disabled do you get the visible warnings from the sensors? Dave

Morning Babylon Welcome to the Forum Not sure what your asking here as far as I am aware that there is and electrical connection for the Brake light switch. I am not aware of one for the clutch but am always willing to learn Check www.realoem.com for the pedal arrangement normally if there is an electrical connection it will be identified then search for wiring diagrams for that part number. Good Luck Dave

Morning Lauren Welcome to the Forum That may be difficult as this is a UK based Forum, we do have a few members across the Pond maybe one of those can help. Look up www.pelicanparts.com they are a long established business and well versed in BMW's they may be able to offer advice Good Luck Dave

My point V is whatever happened we cant comment acurately or form an opinion as we were not there. What ever happened is in the past and your car will need to be repaired as will any other vehicles involved. What are your insurers doing ? Not unusual for them to settle their own insured damage claims in cases like this Dave

Morning V Welcome to the Forum Not sure what your expecting here we are BMW owners not insurance crash investigators Surely for the nearside to hit the Concrete Divider you would have had to have spun 180deg ?? If you don't recall that happening thats a worry. The police use sofistigated crash investigation software these days where all we can do is guess as we were not there I assume your Insurers are on board after all an accident is an accident Good luck with the claim Dave

Morning Kelvin Welcome to the Forum The turbo actuator arm leak is a new one for me (everyday is a school day) great detective work to find both leaks I have actually seen two 2.0d with EGR gaskets missing completley so a good clean and new gaskets should sort that. The actuator arm one ? As BMW dont make Turbo's there are several Turbo specialists out there who should be able to help with advice or a refurbished Turbo Good Luck Dave

Morning John Welcome to the Forum Don't ignore suspension bushes I spend quite a lot of time driving on farm tracks during the shooting season. I have learned from experience that suspension bushes last around 80k max, they then start to become hard or worse start to break up. I change the bushes between 60/80k front and rear, shocks at 100/150k. The 4.4 and my current E70 are springs front air rear the 4.6 was air all round. The 4.4 ran 19" staggered wheels the 4.6is and E70 both run 20" staggered sets (still got a spare set of type 87 4.6is wheels in the shed) The E70 I changed the bushes front and rear at 75k (I have a home made bearing press uses a bottle jack) BMW in their wisdom fitted a pair of sponge/fibre pads above and below the front top mounts after changing the bushes and still having clunky suspension I investigated these and found one side completly disintergrated the other side looking really thin. I changed just the upper set and wow what a difference Changing bushes there are complete kits available (Arms and Bushes) for ront and rear which are not that expensive obviously bushes alone are cheaper but you do need a press. Tip I learned that the rear on the 4.6 bolts were so rusted it was qicker to buy new a cut the old ones off. Did the same with the E70 while your in there change the Rose Joint bottom of the rear hub and get a 4 wheel alignment done Hope this helps Dave

Morning David Welcome to the Forum Wow as you have discovered this is not as straight forward as it seems If your local specialist does indeed have a licenced connection to BMW servers it should be straight forward. However if service records have been entered on the car only and not uploaded to the server it may well reject them. After all it would have no way to validate if the service was carried out correctly, BMW would as a business be underwriting the service history of your car I don't believe they would do that without proof (Main Dealer records) Good Luck Dave

Morning Kyle Welcome to the Forum First it may sound daft but does it have Sat Nav installed ? you can check using a Vin Decoder to get the original build sheet. If the car has Navigation it should be selectable in iDrive. If the car has Car Play or Android Auto enabled the previous owner may have preffered that route for Navigation (my Daughter uses Carplay) Dave

Hi Nicole Welcome to the Forum Oh dear what a terrible tale of woe I am not a Mechanic but I am an old engineer who has maintained his and family cars for a very very long time. First the EML light. If the garage had a BMW capable dignostic reader they would have had more information, however an experienced Mechanic/Engineer should understand that a Code is an indication of the symptom not the cure. If the EGR was clogged it isn't rocket science to know that all pipework and the Inlet manifold will also be clogged and need cleaning/replacing. I am at a bit of a loss as to the Crank unless you mean the Crank Pulley and Belts were changed my question would be why? Any decent home mechanic knows to put the cluth down and if that effects noise and vibration then the issue is with the clutch/flywheel. That is a big job as it is Gearbox out so I would expect cost between £700 and £1000 at a Garage. My advice would be First, you are the only one who can decide whether to spend more of your hard earned, if you decide to stay with the car find a decent garage/mechanic Good Luck Dave