Greydog

Morning Stu Long time since I played with a straight six so the old memory might be wonky here so check realoem From memory it is linked to the Air Pump and Vacuum control system. Find the Airpump and follow the Vac lines to the rear of the engine you should find a valve with a plug on top (or end) first make sure all lines are good no splits or cracks check the valve is operating, dont forget there is a non return vale in the system close to the inlet manifold. Hope this helps Dave

Morning Vic New one to me but I guess anywhere there is a joint is suspect. Like the seals around the rear lights that suddenly start to leak, removing them a good clean and renewing the seals seems to work. Check www.realoem.com to see what is fitted and how Dave

Morning Billy When was the car last serviced ? The symptoms you describe could be due to an air or vacuum leak, old hoses seals and vacuum lines can start to crack when cold they are stiff and don't leak (as much) when hot and flexible you see the issue developing. Your OBD Scanner needs to be BMW capable a standard scanner will only see critical functions. Dave

As I understand the wiring diagrams and operation Item 9 on the thermostat housing is the sensor which sends its signal to the ECU for interpretation with information from the map sensor. Information from item 12 (1st drawing ) is also used to provide average temp across the cooling system. As far as I am aware the Thermostst is independent of the sensors and operated by expanding wax material internally

Errr not clear here Donald Plastic "L's" with short rubber hoses ??? Distilled water/Ionised water should only be used in an old style lead acid battery. The Rad and engine coolining system should be filled with the correct coolant mix to prevent cavitation and the danger of freezing in low temps. Coolant should be part of the cars regular maintenance and changed every 3 years or so. At that time all hoses and connectors should be inspected and changed where necessary to keep everything in tip top condition. Changing parts can cause as many problems as you may think your solving

What's Brazillian for BIG THUD 🤣🤣 Dave

Morning Andrew I normally disconnect the Neg lead only, some folks disconnect both a few even say disconnect both and touch them together. Goes without saying both sensor plugs need to be checked and a squirt of contact cleaner applied never hurts 😅 Dave

Not sure what engine your running but there should be a Temp sensor in the Hose from the Rad to the water pump then there should be a Temp sensor in the housing for the Thermostat Both are shown in realoem for the 3.5 V8 I thought the V8 was the only one with dual use sensor on the Thermostat housing but stand to be corrected Dave

Back to my daughters method she told me "you don't need that stuff there is a Thud when your to close 😅" Dave

Morning BMW use 2 temp sensors one is with the thermostat the other is at the bottom hose to the rad (check realoem for your model) the car uses an average reading across the two to decide if things are OK Check wiring to both it could be that as there is no signal from your new thermostat it's confused things Dave

Hi Kerry Welcome to the Forum If you are absolutley certain the physical timing is OK then this could well be a sensor issue crankshaft and camshaft sensors are not communicating The first 2 codes are Camshaft related the 3rd is Misfire Cylinder 6. P0016 confirms there is an issue with Crankshaft/Camshaft communication Just because they are new doesn't mean they are right do you have the old sensors to try ? Full diagnostic with a good BMW friendly reader would/should tell more Dave

Morning Vic If the battery was new I believe it should recharge from the cars system so thats odd, unless it needs registering to allow recharging of course, or the telematic unit is toast. If changing the Telematic unit try and source the same part number to avoid any registering issues Good Luck Dave

The fellow selling them just needs to check the back of the spokes as Stu says he should find it there Dave

Ear Defenders 😅 Could well be a front sensor masked a little or possibly the sounder ? you getting nothing from 1.4.0 ? Dave

Good to have you back Dimitris I would think there will be an internal fault recorded but if the Thermostat is working it will simply open earlier so I would think gauge wise you will see nothing unusual Dave

Hi Richard I have used both staggered and square set ups. You can check wheel sizes using www.realoem.com if you are making a wheel/tyre purchase make sure that the wheels have the correct offset so they clear the brake calipers also make sure they are suitable for your car From the weather forecast it could be the first time in a long time it's been cold enough to need Winters unless like I used to you need to travel in Europe where Winters are mandatory Dave

Not sure what you have done or are asking here Donald First the Boot/Trunk can be opened manually using the Master Key. The Battery is in the Trunk/Boot so Neg terminal off first. If you realeased the Red Lead under the Hood/Bonnet you only isolated part of the cars electrical system? (This is also the Charging Point so if charging the battery this is where to connect) Sensors, before changing them make sure they actually need changing test them (Google for parameters) also check whether they need coding to the car to ensure they are going to work correctly. Check all fuses are intact if all OK then a Diagnostic scan should show where the Issues are Dave

Morning Donald I think you need to read very carefully just what your agreement/policy with Beacon says. Personally I don't need or want an algorithm in an Insurance suppliers computer deciding how and where I can drive. It quite probably decided you were to close to an allocated limit and shut down to prevent you exceeding it ??? Dave

Morning Stu The old girl isn't being very helpful at the moment is she 😄 Starter is a an absolute Faff to get at requiring some really long extensions did a couple back in the mid 2000's much easier if you can get access to a lift. Cold weather coming maybe let the wallet take the strain 😅 Dave

Morning Donald I have never heard the "State Farm Beacon Drive Safe and Save" to me it sounds like an Insurance backed system to monitor use and charge accordingly. In which case it could very well be the cause of issues and is nothing to do with BMW as far as I know. Dave

Morning John Welcome to the Forum My Insurers insisted on a Tracker being fitted when I brought the E53 4.6is 2003 I used their recommended supplier and it didn't cause any Warranty issues with BMW. Dave

You need to check www. realoem.com put the last 7 digits of your Vin into the search box then check Wheel/Tyre section note the offset required to clear the calipers. Then check the 4 series manually and compare the results Dave

Morning Andrew Wear sensors are normally reliable so I would check the connections are clean and properly made they normally reset themselves but you could try the old Battery Disconnect to reset the light. If you still have an issue then it is diagnostics time Dave

Morning Daniel !46k is no mileage and assuming the the service was a full one (Drain the flid, Drop the pan change the filter, check the solonoids and the External plug) and used the correct Fluid. It depends on if you are a DIY capable guy or whether your wallet is going to take a hit DIY, I would begin by checking the Fuid level and making sure there are no leaks. When checking the levels you could add a tube oof DR Tranny a "Snake Oil Additive" but I have seen it help a number of internal issues. Then reset the faults if they return you need more investigation. The issue could be a sticking/failing solenoid or serious wear internally. If you are not keen on DIY then you will need a good ZF specialist. It involves dropping the Fluid and gearbox sump removing the filter to expose the Mechatronix unit check the magnets in the sump carefully for and metal shavings and fragments everything has to be very clean. Dave

Morning Daniel Welcome to the Forum You need to supply a little more information "how many miles ? is there any evidence the gearbox has been serviced ?" Your Gearbox is in limp mode 3rd or 4th gear this could be because the box is worn and needs a rebuild, it could be a service and oil change will fix it or it could be low transmission fluid due to a leak. Of course the box in a 330i will have had quite a hard life 😁 Dave