Greydog

The spigot is the raised ring on the wheel hub that locates the wheel. It should match the big centre hole in the middle of the wheel, If the one in the wheel is smaller it wont fit if it's larger thewheel wont centre correctly and will probaly wobble Good Luck Buddy

Hi Ian Welcome to the Forum Check www.realoem.com put the last 7 digits of your Vin into the search box (one car at a time) then check the wheels section. Check the wheel szes for both cars and the wheel Offset so you know they clear Brake Calipers The only other thing is check the spigot ring measure ment on both wheels Hope this Helps Dave

Hi Mark Welcome to the Forum Try www.realoem.com put the last 7 digits of your vin into the search box it will call up your model, then search the lights section. When you have the part number located double click it and it should call up a list of alternates and models that used them Good Luck Dave

Morning Cindy It isnt hard to see it is a little silver lever with a hook end that sticks through the inner door membrane almost in a straight line down from the teltale button on the top of the door card. A drawing a pic attached hope the help Your aiming at the little hook shaped lever in the picture Dave

Hi Gemma Welcome to the Forum First place to look is in the iDrive settings in case someone has set something there Max/Min. I take it all fuses have been checked? If the temp was adjustable but now isnt you may need a Diagnostic scan to determine just what the issue is. There are a couple of Companies who repair these if it is the climate control ECU Testing and Cartronix Google will help you find them talk to them to see if they can help Hope this helps Dave

Morning Cindy Welcome to the Forum Sounds like a failed acctuator, it is possible to release the top of the door card and prize it away far enough to see the lever operated by the internal handles cable. This sounds brutal but put a long screw driver or pry bar down onto the lever and give it a good wack with a Rubber mallet/Hammer the door should open. You can now remove the door card and carefully peel back the membrane (tip. use a hair dryer or heat gun to soften the adhesive) so you can access the actuator and remove it. It goes without saying you will need a new acctuator Also check the condition of the internal cable I have seen a couple where the cable was the fault but sadly you have to brutalise the acctuator to find out I would change both to be safe Good Luck Dave

Morning Stu The old E53 Door Handle carrier fail one of the most common E53 faults, and you don't even need to pull it to hard 🤣 She is teaching you not to Blaspheme Posche !!!! Don't get the V6 they are as dear to run as the V8 and can be surprisingly fragile. Brother Inlaws experience brought one to tow his boat Dave

Morning Mark Welcome to the Forum I would guess the £1000 quote is from a BMW Dealer, I suspect the actuators will need replacing and coding to the car then the system resetting. The actuators are quite possibly OEM supply only, while there may be a Specialist locally who has the knowledge and diagnostic equipment to do the work whether they can get the actuators is the question Check the Register of BMW Specialists and get a second quote their Hourly rates are often half that of a Main Dealer (my local Dealer is way over £200 p/hr) No chance of an Insurance Claim ? Good Luck Dave

Morning Jag Welcome to the Forum Only one word really ENJOY Dave

Morning John As you seem to be getting so much water you would think there should be clear evidence ?? Hopefully the specialist will find it. As an after thought is the boot clear? I have seen an amazing amount of water in the boot of a 5 series that was coming from rear light seals failing, clutching at straws really Dave

Morning Tony I would say Jez is right try clearing down all faults then if you can see the Aliexpress unit try registering it as you would a battery Good Luck Dave

Ouch Roof seals and window and door seals would be my starting point if the water is coming from the bulk head surley the front carpets would be wet as well? Fingers crossed on it being an easy fix Dave

The seal is normally the "O" ring inside the plastic hose end. I have not reused them so not sure how that would work if the "O" ring is OK then would think it should be OK maybe a smear of silicon sealant on the "O" ring may work ? Unless it is a cunning BMW plan to get us buying new hoses Dave

Morning John How annoying you could check www.realoem.com put the last 7 digits into the search box it will call up your model then check the Body section for drain locations. While the site is an Online BMW parts list the small exploded drawings can be great fot locating things Obviously it will give part numbers if replacements are needed Good Luck Dave

Morning Will Welcome to the Forum Not sure if this is the right platform as this is a UK based site Good luck with the sale Dave

Morning Aleem Welcome to the Forum The seal is normally the "O" ring that can be seen in the second picture inside the hose connector is the seal. Check www.realoem.com put the last 7 digits of your Vin into the search box it will call up your model then check the Engine section to see if you can buy new seals Good Luck Dave

Morning Mark Welcome to the Forum Take a look at www.realoem.com put the last 7 digits of your Vin into the search box it should callup your model, then look at the wheels/Tyres section you will get a list of wheel Tyre sizes that were OEM options Hope this helps Dave

Morning Dan Welcome to the Forum Check your handbook for the reset procedure or Google there are a few videos. First make sure all 4 tyres need to be the correct pressure. Then go into the iDrive and folloe the reset procedure the light will stay on until the car is driven Good luck Dave

Morning John A warranty is one of those insurances that we hope we never need BMW warranty is obviously reliant on maintaining the BMW service history and I have never heard of any bad experiences they are not cheap though After market Warranties can be just as good there are several out there. I used Warranty Wise for my E53 4.6is they were very good and covered the car up to it's 16th birthday So do your research check the what is covered and what is not carefully against cost Good Hunting Dave

Hi Ron I spoke with a friend in BMW he says it will need a Diagnostic program like INPA/ISTA that has the capability to re-register the unit. He obviously favours BMW's program but I know others are capable of re-registering components he doesn't think you should need a one time code. If you have a Diagnostic and can find the unit try reading the unit Data and look for the chassis number if the one that is there doesn't match yours wipe it and enter yours. Good Luck Dave

Morning Ron So it is the Sat Radio unit try looking on www.realoem.com put the last 7 digits of your cars Vin into the search box That should call up your model then search the Audio Nav section the small exploded drawings will show what should be there and what is connected to it you can also get the correct part numbers (double click the part numbers and it should show a list of alternates if available). Also worth checking the fuses in case someone pulled a fuse Good Luck with the party plans 😅 Dave

Morning Ronald First not sure which part your talking about here? In the UK/Europe the Sat Nav is integrated into the CCC/CiC sytem located in the centre dash. What is the part number on the Part you purchased that may help Dave

Morning Edward The colour is Grey/Green trace Dave

Hi Stu I think you could well be right had this with the 4.6 loss of power, stop restart all OK then randomly lose power New throttls body sorted it. Good Luck Dave

And damn pretty as well Your car should be the LCI model Is it the picture or is the number plate wonky Dave