Greydog

Morning John Welcome to the Forum Don't ignore suspension bushes I spend quite a lot of time driving on farm tracks during the shooting season. I have learned from experience that suspension bushes last around 80k max, they then start to become hard or worse start to break up. I change the bushes between 60/80k front and rear, shocks at 100/150k. The 4.4 and my current E70 are springs front air rear the 4.6 was air all round. The 4.4 ran 19" staggered wheels the 4.6is and E70 both run 20" staggered sets (still got a spare set of type 87 4.6is wheels in the shed) The E70 I changed the bushes front and rear at 75k (I have a home made bearing press uses a bottle jack) BMW in their wisdom fitted a pair of sponge/fibre pads above and below the front top mounts after changing the bushes and still having clunky suspension I investigated these and found one side completly disintergrated the other side looking really thin. I changed just the upper set and wow what a difference Changing bushes there are complete kits available (Arms and Bushes) for ront and rear which are not that expensive obviously bushes alone are cheaper but you do need a press. Tip I learned that the rear on the 4.6 bolts were so rusted it was qicker to buy new a cut the old ones off. Did the same with the E70 while your in there change the Rose Joint bottom of the rear hub and get a 4 wheel alignment done Hope this helps Dave

Morning David Welcome to the Forum Wow as you have discovered this is not as straight forward as it seems If your local specialist does indeed have a licenced connection to BMW servers it should be straight forward. However if service records have been entered on the car only and not uploaded to the server it may well reject them. After all it would have no way to validate if the service was carried out correctly, BMW would as a business be underwriting the service history of your car I don't believe they would do that without proof (Main Dealer records) Good Luck Dave

Morning Kyle Welcome to the Forum First it may sound daft but does it have Sat Nav installed ? you can check using a Vin Decoder to get the original build sheet. If the car has Navigation it should be selectable in iDrive. If the car has Car Play or Android Auto enabled the previous owner may have preffered that route for Navigation (my Daughter uses Carplay) Dave

Hi Nicole Welcome to the Forum Oh dear what a terrible tale of woe I am not a Mechanic but I am an old engineer who has maintained his and family cars for a very very long time. First the EML light. If the garage had a BMW capable dignostic reader they would have had more information, however an experienced Mechanic/Engineer should understand that a Code is an indication of the symptom not the cure. If the EGR was clogged it isn't rocket science to know that all pipework and the Inlet manifold will also be clogged and need cleaning/replacing. I am at a bit of a loss as to the Crank unless you mean the Crank Pulley and Belts were changed my question would be why? Any decent home mechanic knows to put the cluth down and if that effects noise and vibration then the issue is with the clutch/flywheel. That is a big job as it is Gearbox out so I would expect cost between £700 and £1000 at a Garage. My advice would be First, you are the only one who can decide whether to spend more of your hard earned, if you decide to stay with the car find a decent garage/mechanic Good Luck Dave

The correct coolant or even a waterless coolant is the only way to prevent corrosion inside the engine. Distilled water will not stop corrosion and it freezes at the same point as ordinary tap water, unless it is mixed with the correct ratio of coolant as recommended by the manufacturer. Companies like Ford, GM, Mercedes, Chrysler, BMW, VW Audi and many others have been doing this a long time and spend $£m on research to make their product reliable, or are they all wrong. An incorrect coolant can and will react with gaskets, seals, and the disparate metals used in the engine Copper, Aluminium, Magnesium, Cast Iron, and Steel. I also have a 2 car garage but my wifes car is in there plus my tools (saves her scraping the ice off, happy wife happy life) In the early 1960's water and no Coolant cost me a cracked engine block when it froze, so I too learned a long time ago. I have also repaired damage for friends and family so I am afraid we will always disagree on this Dave

Morning Darren From the sound of things you may have found a bargain. Good luck with the purchase Dave

Morning Symptoms could point towards the Footwell Control Module or it's Earth point Dave

Morning Andrew Your local Specialist sounds more anal than some of the Dealers 😅 Anyone North of the border help Andrew out with a reset ?? A good independent with Autologic or Foxwell Diagnostics should be able to do the job Good Luck Dave

According to www.realoem.com the part is 06 Positive battery lead 1 61126929715 Looking at the drawing it connects between the power lead right connection in your Photo and the main power distribution on top of the battery arrowed in your photo Dave

Morning Darren Already answered in welcome If the deaded tin worm hasn't killed it you may have a bargain. BMW love using common earth ponts one that is corroded can effect multiple systems so identify them and make sure they are cleaned and making a good connection Good Luck Dave

Ochtend Frank Welkom op het forum Uw probleem kan van alles zijn, van een defecte/defecte lamp tot een bijna lege batterij, een diagnostische scan zal het vertellen Zoek een BMW Specialist om de kosten op een redelijk niveau te houden Succes Dave

Morning Andrew I wonder if there is a member on here near you with a Capable Diagnostic scanner ? Or check the register of BMW Specialists there will be one not to far away and generally about half the cost of a Main Dealer What area are you in ? I am in sunny Sussex Dave

Morning Andrew The attached drawing is from www.realoem.com it seems to show you are infact missing a connection (item 6) Dave

Morning Darren Welcome to the Forum To be fair we don't see to many Mini questions which actually points to them being pretty reliable Get a good BMW/Mini capable Diagnostic reader they are well worth it BMW INPA/ISTA is best obviously as it gives dealer level access plus Workshop Information and many other functions. There are several alternatives these days iCarsoft, Autoligic, Foxwell are a few others www.realoem.com is an online Parts List if you enter the last seven digits of your Vin into the search box it will call up your model then search the sections for what you need. Having the correct part number means what ever you buy will fit (obviously) but also allows a good search for best prices. There is also a Register of BMW Specialists in case a Garage is needed and a Register of BMW Specialist recyclers Normal buying rules apply Condition, History, History and History make sure everything works I mean everything if all good then I hope you enjoy your Mini Dave

Morning Paul realoem no help ? Dave

I can't add anything here as I have rarely left any of my cars for extended periods, and when I have I use my Ctec with a plug timer set to come on 12hrs before my return. We used a solar charger on the Horse Lorry for a while but it was never really successful (that was quite a few years back though) Dave

Hi Kevin Best of luck negitiating with the Chancellor 🤣 we have all been there 🤣 A good possibility the mirror may have been changed, my brother inlaw had a guy on a bike catch his shoulder bag strap on his nearside mirror, his car was stopped in traffic cyclist passing on the nearside at pace tore the mirror almost off. By the time he got out of the car the guy on the bike was gone !! BMW ordered a complete replacement Mirror you don't want to go that route Dave

Morning John You tried hard and it didn't work so ENJOY your (new to you) Merc Dave

Morning Kevin Both my X5's (UK Spec) do indeed have both mirrors dimming plus the interior mirror. Using a Vin Decoder will let you know what your car was odered with. It is very possible that a mirror glass has been damaged and replaced with a standard glass (I have known a Dealer do this). Once you know what should be there you have a choice as to whether you replace the mirror glass or live with what you have I don't know if they are readily available on the after market but I guess that from BMW they will be order only and not cheap Hope this Helps Dave

Morning Dennis Welcome to the Forum Is that 3 months in a block or over the 12 month span ? My only thought would be is a new car actually necessary or is a low mileage second user car the way to go (it would work for me) The main issues folks have with low use cars are Battery related so if you don't have one get a good battery trickle charger and make sure the Battery is Tip Top particularly when it's cold like this morning Dave

Hi Stewart Welcome to the Forum Rather than try an additive which increases viscosity I think I would have changed the Oil Pressure switch first. Then maybe the Pressure relief valve on the oil pump needs invetigating, after all oil is the life blood on your car. Fingers crossed it is a genuine fix for you remember you can use higher viscosity oils 5-40 instead of 5-30 Dave

Hi Jay You will need a Diagnostic Program to turn off an Airbag light if someone has triggered the light that could also be the issue Dave

Hi David Welcome to the Forum A Vin decoder is a useful tool as it lets you know what was on the original cars build sheet but that only tells you what toys it should have. As its a 2021 car it will have had one MOT which hopefully is clear of any advisories, you can check recall and MOT at www.gov.uk/check-mot-history Next check all tyres are correct and in good condition odd or mismatched tyres can cause havoc with Transfer cases Transmissions and diffs. The rest is History History History plus making sure everything works as it should Good Luck Dave

From Memory you have a Fuse box under the Bonnet, the main one behind the Glove box and one in the boot You should find a fuse layout folded in one of the boxes Fingers crossed it's a simple fix (Fuel Pump Relay) Good Hunting Dave

Morning Andrew Welcome to the Forum looks like your missing a module rear camera or PDC could be a Towing Module Not sure about BCM (I assume this is Body Control Module?) BMW 1.4.0 or ISTA/INPA should/normally show Greyed out Modules as not communicating allowing indentification of Failed units The Footwell Control Module was a common issue on several models and a simple change whether you go new or recycled it will cause a Tamper Dot by the mileage, so your new unit will need to be registered to your chassis and the mileage matched to your car. Junction Box Electroncs is the next biggy mainly due to where it is situated. Dont forget check or better still change the Fuel Pump Relay one of the common faults Also disconnect the modules check the connectors for signs of corrosion on pins give every thing a clean and spray of electrical contact cleaner and put it back. I have fixed several this way. Good Luck Dave