Greydog

Morning Jorgen Welcome to the Forum You can check on www.realoem.com put the last 7 digits of your Vin into the search box it will call up your model then search the sections for what you need I am not aware of other joints but I have not worked on an X1 so there may be something there. Re-check all work done just in case, check the start relay and all fuses Hope this helps Dave

Morning Peter Mark is spot on with his advice they are great cars and not as scary as many think if you are a DIY home mechanic. Our pot holed roads can wreak havoc on modern alloys tyres and suspension so check tyre condition and signs of uneven wear. History you can check in 3 ways Insurance (HPI) will tell of any untoward incidents Mot history will show if advisories have been attended to or ignored Service history will demonstrate general maintenance and with reciepts any other repairs. Check gearbox services have been done (often ignored) Good Luck with the hunt Dave

Morning Karl My money is still on the battery, simple test disconnect the battery fully charge it and leave it overnight if it looses charge that will confirm it The control unit by the battery is probably the PDC module. Water in the area doesn't help check the floor drains are not blocked (I guess your mechanic will do that) You could also check for a prasitic drain on the battery, battery fully charged car closed apart from the bonnet, let the car go to sleep (all systems off the tell tale by the gearshift will go out) then check at the under bonnet charge points for any discharge. There will be a small milli amp discharge clock etc, anything higher will need investigation Good luck Dave

Hi Daryl Welcome to the Forum First are you sure the Fuel Pump is running in the tank? The system normally self bleeds. You could try releasing air at the fuel rail pressure test schrader valve. Make sure you have plenty of Rag/Paper Towel there as it doesn't take much fuel to make a big mess everywhere. Either take out the schrader valve or depress the nipple while an assistant cycles the ignition for 30 secs or so. I have also heard of attaching a vacuum pump to number 1 injector fuel feed and pulling fuel through into the fuel rail that way, never tried that myself but worth a go. Good Luck Dave

Morning Justin Welcome to the Forum First the I would point out the Post you seem annoyed with (Wtf) is 3 years old ? Second the OP did close out the post by telling everyone it fixed his issue, success, saved a few quid and learned a lot I am sure So not sure what your problem is other than yo clearly wouldn't have done that Dave

Hi Shaun Welcome to the Forum I have read several times about this problem though not seen/suffered one myself From what I read the only solution is change the unit two choices, first BMW I have read £1k+ quotes and long wait times for parts. Second choice a used replacement first use www.realoem.com put the last 7 digits of your Vin into the search box it will call up your model get the Part Number for your car, double click the part number and it should show a list of any alternatives if they are available. Then Google to find the part and check prices Apparently it isn't a major issue to swap a DIY job then get your Mech friend to clear and reset codes Good luck Dave

Hi Steve Cold weather kills batteries get yours checked or charged would be my bet Dave

Morning Kirk Welcome to the Forum First the air suspension is a very simple system (compressor, pipework, airsprings and height sensors) the only issue I have seen is when cheap airspring replacements have been used or there is a leak at a joint ride height sensors need checking. Still that isn't your question, the answer is yes a straight forward job there are many kits available the job is just like changing the air springs. However you will need to remove the compressor and pipe work, plus code out the air suspension or the car will be looking for signal from the sensors. I would expect a good kit to cost around £200 Good Luck Dave

Morning Beth Welcome to the Forum When you say Vehicle History which bit, !st, is Service History this will indicate how well the car has been maintained. With older cars this will mainly be by way of a stamped Service Book and Reciepts for work done. 2nd. MOT history is always worth checking it will indicate if Advisories (Advised repairs) have been carried out or re-occur. 3rd. Are the Insurance checks ie. has it been in an accident and repaired (HPI etc) The DVLA hold information on all legally registered cars regardless of Registration number MOT information also includes The Vin Number (check it matches) HPI and similar hold information on Insurance claims, Finance etc Then of course there are the Physical checks when viewing the car such as, is the body work and paint in good condition, Tyres are they in good condition and evenly worn, Next the mechnicals engine off bonnet up the state of the engine bay will tell you a lot if it is clean and tidy all good if there is dirt oil and grime everywhere ? Before starting check oil water, power steering fluids is the oil clean and up to the correct level, same for the other two no visible leaks, check the engine hasn;t been run warmed up before you get there if it has it raises a question why? Now engine start and listen for noise's rattles sit in the car and make sure everything works as it should every switch button and knob, check the interior for rips or tears carpet and seats, check the carpets for wet or damp (sign of leaks) Last the test drive make it at least 5 or 10 miles single carriageway dual carriageway give it a real test. Don't fall for the "never used that never bothered me" or "easy fix you can get one on Ebay cheap" The MOT/Finance checks you can carryout from the comfort of your living room. The Service History while standing in front of the car same with the other checks don't rush it. If you can't do it yourself take a friendrelative who can Good Luck Dave

Hi Rob Voltage's are spot on so definately not Battery, all fuses checked and good ? A quick look at my copy of ISTA workshop information tells me you have Fuse 7 30a controls the ignition Fuse 13, 7.5a is Cluster Control Unit Fuse 41 is 5a and does the same job it could be the key, or barrel or a no communication with the EWS module a Diagnostic scan will show where the problem is If fuses are all OK have you tried recyncing the key incase it is that simple (you should find a guide on Google) Good Luck Dave h

Morning Rob Welcome to the Forum Dave

Morning Rob When you say Battery has charge what is it measuring ? It should be tested/measured at the charging points under the bonnet, engine off anything below 12.5v indicates a low/dying battery Engine running it should measure 14 +v A low/dying battery can throw up all sorts of issues, as you have a key that you say has been messed with that also could be a cause if it isn't communicating with the EWS. Does the key lock/unlock the car ? A fault diagnosis would be the way to go Dave

Morning Lee Welcome to the Forum What a tale of woe, when you say BMW is this the Dealer or BMW UK? Make sure you document the timeline 1st recall Delay 2nd etc I think you then have a real argument that BMW's delay in rectifying the issue is the underlying cause as these issues were not apparent at the 1st and 2nd recall attempts. Good Luck Dave

Afternoon Craig It may be a PITA but if your struts are fine then a change of spring would be the route I would take Not trying to teach Granny but ride is a combination of Spring/rate (how stiff they are) and Shock absorber Bump/Rebound rate. BMW like rising rate springs (fairly soft to begin then stiffening as load increases) no surprise that they spend a lot of engineering time getting the right blend of spring rate against shock absorber bump/rebound Have you tried talking to a BMW Dealer to see if you can get just the springs ? Another route would be a Bilstien Agent (Bilstien are an OEM supplier) I have been told a Company called EAL Automotive have original spec springs again worth Google search and talk to them. Hope this makes sense Dave

Morning Craig I just checked and it seems BMW don't actually list a spring for your car (I guess they would try and sell a complete strut assembly) I believe the OEM springs are rising rate type matched to the shocks. Many After market springs are rated by use e.g.Road, Sport, Race, your mechanic has probably fitted them correctly just the rate is high possibly combined with stiff shocks gives a harsh ride. The answer probably isn't what you want to hear but sourcing a matched set of Coil Over adjustable struts or Rising rate springs will be the only way to get a comfier ride Dave

Hi Craig Welcome to the Forum A question, are the springs OEM or after market. I have read that after market springs can be very hard Second were the struts rebuilt correctly new spring mounts etc Dave

Morning Karl 11v is a dead or dying battery, if you drove to Somerset it should charge the battery OK the issue is the Battery doesn't seem to be holding the charge. My bet would be duff cell in the battery. The battery inmy E53 4.6is died suddenly 3 years ago the date stamp said it was the original battery (2003) 18 years old The replacement from ECP came with a 5 year warranty but had to be replaced (under Warranty) last year. (Touches wood) the battery in the E70 was replaced 5 years ago and is still going strong. So even though the battery change seems recent it could still die on you Dave

Hi Kristian Thanks for the update, to my thinking the fact it seems intermitent would point to a Dry Joint or a cracked/broken wire feed or track on the Ribbon Dave

Afternoon Karl Welcome to the Forum There is a Register of BMW Specialists Google/Siri will help you should be able to locate one not to far away from you. Before spending your hard earned here are a few of things to check (1) Check Battery Voltage at the charging points under the Bonnet engine off, it should be 12.5v anything below that indicates a failing battery which can cause all your issues. (2) Check the Voltage at the Charging Points engine running voltage should be 14.5 + Volts anything lower points to an Alternator/Voltage Regulator issue (3) BMW love multiple earth points the mounting for these can often become corroded check earth continuity or simply undo the mounting bolt clean everything apply electrical contact cleaner and bolt it back Reset all Fault Codes and check to see if any come back Dave

A little additional information BMW do not repair anything a Dealer would simply change the cluster and re-code the new one The DIY engineers out there have put a surprising amount of information online which should help your Auto Electrician Good Luck Dave

Hi Chris First one is pretty straight foward Coding Data, Second = operation/service, Third = Energy/Power (guessing here) Fourth= Block Detection (similar to windows), Fifth I think is Protection (may be here you find soft close) Six says what it is (could also be where you find what you need) Seven = Regulation (could also be what you need) Last is Diagnostics or Diagnosis (I wpold check there first in case a reset sots it) Hope that helps, my ISTA/INPA gives all in english so easier to use never looked at tailgate programming Diagnostics should let you know if it is the close sensor or programming Good Luck Dave

Morning Nick Welcome to the Forum Normally it will be one or two sensors that fail as you say, I would go back and test the sensors again. PDC on then ligtly touch each sensor with an ear close you should hear clicking and feel a light vibration. I would have a spare sensor to swap in the event you find a non responsive one (the trick is being able to get at the sensors) If a sensor is swapped and remains unresponsive check the loom from that sensor to the next for continuity. Good Luck Dave

Morning Charlie Welcome to the Forum I would guess either you have trapped the wiring or pulled a plug to the power steering somewhere. The only way is to back track all your work and check. Assuming that you have checked fuses and the power steering motor ? Good Luck Dave

Hi Christopher I have never used a Haynes Manual so can't comment on it's information. I work from BMW ISTA/INPA with it's WIS and TIS plus a few other sources (An old neighbour is senior management level in BMW) My Diagnostic Program using your Vin tells me your car is a BMW E34 Saloon 525i RH Drive Auto M20 Engine Manufacter Year 1989 Nov Now the fun part your Model used capacitors not batteries apparently (top right of the cluster I am told) they can be replaced and no recoding to avoid a Tamper dot by the miles recorded. First check is does your cluster have a Grey back if so it should be straight forward (I am told, never done it myself) Apparently the same cluster was used in the 7 series and can be swapped but then you will either need to move the coded plug (Brown Cable) needs swapping or re-code the cluster If the back is Black or another colour replacement is the way to go I don't know if this helps or not Dave

Morning Bruce Welcome to the Forum and Happy New Year You need a Scan using a good BMW capable diagnostic system. Your issue could be Crankshaft or Camshaft sensor related or High Pressure fuel pump/sensor related. If you have continuity on the Injector loom then it should be OK. I have seen two that had single injector issues due to frayed brokn wires (badly fitted loom) but cars still ran fine apart from a misfire and lack of power. Both were fixed with a new loom from BMW Hope this helps Dave