Greydog

Morning John Welcome to the Forum Take a look at www.realoem.com put the last 7 digits of your Vin into the search box it will call up your model then search the relevant section you should get small exploded drawings that will help along with all part numbers.if you double click the part number you will get a list of alternates and models it was used on Is the Rad you have a pattern part or OEM ? I have known pattern parts not fit without a lot of fiddling Your BMW Dealer sounds a proper git and not helpful at all. I would email BMW UK Customer services and complain with realoem you won't need them again anyway Attached are a couple of examples of the drawings you will find cant be more accurate as engine size and type will change parts Hope this gets you sorted Dave free-last-will-testament-form DJM.docx

Hi Vic Welcome to the Forum If I recall it may be that the battery has died seen a few of them depending on the system and model. You should find the battery under a cover as part of the TCU in the boot left side behindthe trim. There are from memory 2 types of battery so either check with your BMW Dealer or check www.realoem.com yourself. That will save messing around with coding or paying someone to do it Dave

Morning William Welcome to the Forum First let us be clear which model we are talking about, my guess is 30.d with Msport trim is that correct ? Next how was the diagnosis arrived at did the garage give you a print of the Diagnostic Scan showing faults and fault codes? What lights and warnings were on the dash and iDrive. What is the cars service history when was it last serviced? when if ever was the gearbox and drive train serviced ? Last if you are not capable of a DIY fix then as Luke says you need at least a good Independent Garage or a BMW Specialist who will have the knowledge to properly diagnose and fix it. There is a Register of BMW Specialists so you should with Googles help find one near by Dave

Morning Not sure but the only place I can think there would be a worm drive is inside the Acctuator !! At a guess someone has been there before and broken away the plastic cover. How did you get the picture ? is the door open or have you got the door card off ? Seeing that you really do need a new acctuator That worm drive turns a nylon wheel that operates the door lock how you will turn it now? I haven't a clue but that part should not be exposed. Dave

Morning Cindy Sorry cant open your Video Take a look at www.realoem.com put the last 7 digits of your Vin into the search box it will call up your Model the look in the Body and Trim sections for what you need. The site is an online BMW parts list as used by dealers when you have the part number double click it and it will show a list of alternates and other models it was used on As already said from your description the actuator has failed (no inner or outer handles working) I have seen several over the years. There are 2 ways I know of to get the door card off (1) with the door shut the drivers seat needs to be removed or tipped on it's side and then yo can lever off the door card as the door is closed you will break some of the plastic clips so have spares ready. This will expose the door inner skin and the lever that attaches to the inner door handle operating cable. This is the lever that needs a wack to open the door. Method (2) lower the window prise the door trim away along the top edge and back edge (lock edge) you should be able to get enough space to see the lever with the cable attached on the inside of the door, put a long screw driver or pry bar on it push it down and give it a good wack. Life will be so much easier with the door open. Door card off peel back the membrane carefully undo the screws holding the actuator pop out the door button un-hook the inner cable and remove the actuator . The actuator is the Black part in the photo you can see the small lever and part 1 in the diagram Dave

BMW brought Range Rover to understand 4x4's and the market. Then the X5 started the BMW SUV's off late 90's 4.4 V8 and 3.0d they had M cars in M3 M5 flavour but never the X series though they produced the 4.6is to grab the fastest SUV title from Porsche in 2002 (still got mine). They also built 5, X5 Leman 6.0 V12 powered they were test bed cars never released, love to find one of those An X5M didn't appear until 2009/10 the early cars were always pretty raucus particularly mid range and above and with centre box removal and an X pipe replacement (started in the USA) loud As the X4 didn't appear till 2014 it seems thhe designers have gone stealth concious and quiet the current X3 4.0iM is a quiet cars May be one of the other Forums will come up with a Video but I have not heard of or seen one Good Luck with the search Enjoy that X4M Dave

Hi David Welcome to the Forum Very tasty looking car as the power plant is basically the same as the M4 what about exploring an exhaust swap ? I would think Centre box back would be pretty much the same. just how that could effect warranty I am not sure if all parts are OEM Just thinking out loud Dave

The spigot is the raised ring on the wheel hub that locates the wheel. It should match the big centre hole in the middle of the wheel, If the one in the wheel is smaller it wont fit if it's larger thewheel wont centre correctly and will probaly wobble Good Luck Buddy

Hi Ian Welcome to the Forum Check www.realoem.com put the last 7 digits of your Vin into the search box (one car at a time) then check the wheels section. Check the wheel szes for both cars and the wheel Offset so you know they clear Brake Calipers The only other thing is check the spigot ring measure ment on both wheels Hope this Helps Dave

Hi Mark Welcome to the Forum Try www.realoem.com put the last 7 digits of your vin into the search box it will call up your model, then search the lights section. When you have the part number located double click it and it should call up a list of alternates and models that used them Good Luck Dave

Morning Cindy It isnt hard to see it is a little silver lever with a hook end that sticks through the inner door membrane almost in a straight line down from the teltale button on the top of the door card. A drawing a pic attached hope the help Your aiming at the little hook shaped lever in the picture Dave

Hi Gemma Welcome to the Forum First place to look is in the iDrive settings in case someone has set something there Max/Min. I take it all fuses have been checked? If the temp was adjustable but now isnt you may need a Diagnostic scan to determine just what the issue is. There are a couple of Companies who repair these if it is the climate control ECU Testing and Cartronix Google will help you find them talk to them to see if they can help Hope this helps Dave

Morning Cindy Welcome to the Forum Sounds like a failed acctuator, it is possible to release the top of the door card and prize it away far enough to see the lever operated by the internal handles cable. This sounds brutal but put a long screw driver or pry bar down onto the lever and give it a good wack with a Rubber mallet/Hammer the door should open. You can now remove the door card and carefully peel back the membrane (tip. use a hair dryer or heat gun to soften the adhesive) so you can access the actuator and remove it. It goes without saying you will need a new acctuator Also check the condition of the internal cable I have seen a couple where the cable was the fault but sadly you have to brutalise the acctuator to find out I would change both to be safe Good Luck Dave

Morning Stu The old E53 Door Handle carrier fail one of the most common E53 faults, and you don't even need to pull it to hard 🤣 She is teaching you not to Blaspheme Posche !!!! Don't get the V6 they are as dear to run as the V8 and can be surprisingly fragile. Brother Inlaws experience brought one to tow his boat Dave

Morning Mark Welcome to the Forum I would guess the £1000 quote is from a BMW Dealer, I suspect the actuators will need replacing and coding to the car then the system resetting. The actuators are quite possibly OEM supply only, while there may be a Specialist locally who has the knowledge and diagnostic equipment to do the work whether they can get the actuators is the question Check the Register of BMW Specialists and get a second quote their Hourly rates are often half that of a Main Dealer (my local Dealer is way over £200 p/hr) No chance of an Insurance Claim ? Good Luck Dave

Morning Jag Welcome to the Forum Only one word really ENJOY Dave

Morning John As you seem to be getting so much water you would think there should be clear evidence ?? Hopefully the specialist will find it. As an after thought is the boot clear? I have seen an amazing amount of water in the boot of a 5 series that was coming from rear light seals failing, clutching at straws really Dave

Morning Tony I would say Jez is right try clearing down all faults then if you can see the Aliexpress unit try registering it as you would a battery Good Luck Dave

Ouch Roof seals and window and door seals would be my starting point if the water is coming from the bulk head surley the front carpets would be wet as well? Fingers crossed on it being an easy fix Dave

The seal is normally the "O" ring inside the plastic hose end. I have not reused them so not sure how that would work if the "O" ring is OK then would think it should be OK maybe a smear of silicon sealant on the "O" ring may work ? Unless it is a cunning BMW plan to get us buying new hoses Dave

Morning John How annoying you could check www.realoem.com put the last 7 digits into the search box it will call up your model then check the Body section for drain locations. While the site is an Online BMW parts list the small exploded drawings can be great fot locating things Obviously it will give part numbers if replacements are needed Good Luck Dave

Morning Will Welcome to the Forum Not sure if this is the right platform as this is a UK based site Good luck with the sale Dave

Morning Aleem Welcome to the Forum The seal is normally the "O" ring that can be seen in the second picture inside the hose connector is the seal. Check www.realoem.com put the last 7 digits of your Vin into the search box it will call up your model then check the Engine section to see if you can buy new seals Good Luck Dave

Morning Mark Welcome to the Forum Take a look at www.realoem.com put the last 7 digits of your Vin into the search box it should callup your model, then look at the wheels/Tyres section you will get a list of wheel Tyre sizes that were OEM options Hope this helps Dave

Morning Dan Welcome to the Forum Check your handbook for the reset procedure or Google there are a few videos. First make sure all 4 tyres need to be the correct pressure. Then go into the iDrive and folloe the reset procedure the light will stay on until the car is driven Good luck Dave