Greydog

Morning Craig Welcome to the Forum Try checking www.realoem.com (if you haven't already) just put the last 7 digits of your Vin into the search box it will bring up your model. Get the part number for your pads and cross reference them with Brembo. I have run Brembo stuff for years and not come across this issue Dave

Morning Steve Welcome to the Forum When you say "start" do you mean just the engine? If it is then does your car have full air suspension? Dave

Hi Graham The power light is beside the left hand Knob (small orange light) try pressing the button or turning it up/down. Fuses are in 3 places Glove box Rear right Cubby and a sneaky one under the Big Quadloc connector on top of the Radio (BM54) unit under the boot floor. In the right rear cubby you should find a fuse box there should be a diagram to show which does what. If its not there check fuses 72 (30a) and 75 (5a) there is also a relay No3 The BM54 Radio unit is under the Boot floor and the spare wheel remove them and the plastic protector plate (3 screws) and you should see the BM54 radio unit with a big Black Quadloc on top under it is a 10a fuse (sneaky huh) while your down there the TV unit is on the left with Blue and White connectors As you recently purchased the car did it work when you first got it ? Is it possible the previous owner had an aftermarket unit fitted and removed it for sale? So check the Left Cubby for the Nav unit, CD Changer, and ULF (Bluetooth unit tucked down the bottom. Make sure they are all connected.The Nav unit handles the Video signal to the headunit so if it's not connected or missing that could well be your problem. Mk4 Nav units come up on Ebay a lot normally around £90 to £150 depending on the seller Just re-read your original post while the Halfords man was right to say you need an extended ISO lead but a £1000 !!!!! try £60 for the lead plus a Dynavin (the one I used) unit or similar £250 to £600 (new) which will look totally OEM plus you can add all the bells and whistles, TV Dash cam Reverse cam Dab etc should you want So the choice (for me it would be) is if 2 or more items in the OEM system need replacing I would weigh the cost against Aftermarket replacement Dave

Morning Graham Welcome to the Forum The guy at Halfords is correct, currently your Radio and TV/Video unit are under the spare wheel in the boot the Navigation,CD Changer and Bluetooth unit are in the left rear cubby. The screen is just a display and control for the stuff in the back. I take it you have checked fuses. There are a number of options open to you, first is it the screen or another issue ? Does the power light illuminate on the head unit or can you hear the radio? If you can then a replacement screen unit will be a simple swap and a lot cheaper than a full install If you have been having other problems such as Flaky Nav or CD or Radio then the choices are change individual OEM units not difficult as they are all easily accessible. However if you start to add up the cost of changing multiple OEM stuff a change makes economical sense. I did this on my 4.4. To change requires a 5m long ISO lead before fitting it I added a Nav antenna (SMA) extension and a Radio antenna extension. There is plenty of space to run the lead along the passenger side (tip get a set of trim removal tools) I unbolted the passenger seat so I could tip it back to get more room where the loom runs under it. A couple of hours fitting the loom and removing all the OEM stuff and replacing trim and the seat then connect up and test 😁 Best part I sold all the OEM kit on Ebay and recovered the cost of the Dynavin unit I replaced it with, word of caution here you will loose some of the check functions clock etc displayed in the binnacle (well I did back then) though I have read the newer Dynavin n7 units retain these. Everything looked OEM which I wanted but bluetooth was a huge improvement as was NAV TV and CD/DVD Hope this helps Dave

Morning John Welcome to the Forum As the wiring will not be connected to anything the system will think there is a Fault so you will get warnings about inactive self leveling suspension. I would think it is possible to "Code" out the warnings using ISTA/INPA There may be further complications if you have self levelling on all 4 corners when it comes to coding out the warnings. I don't know if leaving the warning will cause a limp mode situation with the car thinking it has suspension failure. I have coded out several X5 and a couple of 5 series with rear only Air suspension when the owners have gone to conventional springs. Nothing on a car as new as yours though. My personal preference is OEM so my X% still runs rear self leveling air suspension. Dave

Good find Steven Dave

Morning Dave That is a lot more information which helps but also gives more options for fault cause First as Stu suggested have you unplugged the MAF to see the effect on idle. Check all the Vacuum pipes and Crank case ventilation carbon filter? Check the Inlet manifold for Air leaks ? They are the obvious physical things that come to mind. An air or Vacuum leak will give erratic idle and possibly misfire at higher revs. Have you checked the simple things with the car idling take the fuel cap off, does anything change? The fuel tank breather system hoses and valve in the engine bay? The fuel injector system wiring, and fuel lines, unplug individual injectors see if anything changes? Air and Vacuum hoses harden and crack with age as do plastic connectors. If an Oxygen sensor is failing/failed (they have a life of about 100k) there is a fall back map in the ECU so while MPG may fall a little idle isn't normally affected. Your Alternator is charging at the correct rate from your previous post. The Throttle body code that points to a failing/failed throttle body The symptoms of a failed throttle body are in my experience (have seen a few on several makes as well as BMW over the years) car will start and idle but will not rev or when in gear no power. While there seems a lot to check and test it isn't outside the scope of a home mechanic and could all be done in a Saturday morning. A scan with a BMW specific scanning tool will give far more accurate information I use primarily BMW 1.4.0 or INPA/ISTA these systems don't just give a Code they actually describe the faulted item and its position. As an example I had a parking sensor fault, the scan showed PDC sensor Centre rear Right. Dave

Hi Steven Welcome to the Forum Not heard this before it isnt like BMW to pass up an opportuniy to charge a bit more because it's "Special" I guess you have searched the after market ? Dave

Hi Dave Which engine are we dealing with ? Rough Idle can be several things Plugs Coil Packs coil pack loom Injectors Injector Loom, also check the fuel pressure and compression. If that all checks OK then you are back to your original post. Normally if a Fault Code can be cleared it is a symptom of something else. If the fault code is persistent as in your case then the items that faulted need thorough investigation or replacement. Dave

Isn't it a pain when our car outsmarts us 🤣 Dave

Morning Stu Dave's original post mentions stored fault codes that indicate Throttle body and or Harness they need to be checked/tested. The throttle body is on the Inlet manifold the Maf is separate normally near the Air filter. In my experience when the throttle body is failing/fails the car will start and idle but there will be no power if unplugged often it wont start/run. If the codes are erased the car will run normally until the fault re-occurs. The question is is the fault in the throttle body or the loom? When the Maf is failing/failed the car will be difficult to start and idle erratic if the Maf is unplugged idle will often even out as the ECU reverts to a fall back map Dave

Morning Chad Welcome to the Forum Always difficult to diagnose a knock or clunk without experiencing it.Is the knock are one off clunk or a rotating knock knock knock? First did the specialist explain why they thought it was the diff? If the diff is worn then I would think it should be possible to check your self how much movement at the Input shaft/prop are all the bolts tight and the coupling in good condition, is the centre bearing OK. If they are then how much movement is in the drive shafts either side. Is the diff oil level correct? As far as the Diff goes I guess that price is a BMW OEM part plus fitting. As you have a handy brother inlaw in your tool kit 😁 Maybe talk to some of the BMW Specialist Dismantlers (Google) check www.realoem.com put the last 7 digits of your Vin into the search box then check the Diff in the Rear axel section double click the part number and you should get a list of othe models it was used in. Good Luck Dave

Morning Rick Cant help with your camera in use as mine my wife's and my brother inlaw's are all Nextbase cameras. They all have vibration/collision sensor capability so come on when parked if the car is clobbered and they just work fine, I check ours once a month. Pull the memory card and check it's recording OK that's it. Happy to report in 7 years since fitting we have not needed the footage other than test and curiosity Dave

Morning James Welcome to the Forum The only Daft Question is the one you wished you'd asked BMW specify a range of oils for use in different climates check the hand book. 5-30 fully synthetic is normal in the UK and Europe, 5-40 fully synthetic in extreme conditions (Heat) or in a very high mileage engine I use Castrol Magnatec so does my Brother Inlaw in his diesel Hope this helps Dave

Throttle body

Morning Rick I guess it's a simple task to fit the camera the bit you need to think about is where you take the power from. With my brother Inlaws 5 series I took power from the glove box torch charger, on his latest we took power from the sun visor courtesy light. One member on here got hold of a spare chargeable torch and soldered the power connections to it so his install was removable without any great fuss Dave

Morning Green6 Welcome to the Forum First check the "how Many Left website then as you have the Reg Number I would first check the Government MOT web site. If there is no record of an MOT either the car is Off the Road/Scrapped or it may have had a Plate change. I don't think the DVLA would be much use without a Vin number they would also probaly hide behind the DATA Protection act. May be some of the "6 Series" owners Forums? Good Luck with the hunt Dave

Have you disconnected the battery, if you haven't all fault codes will remain as "Fault Present" so nothing will change? Your battery seems OK by those figures. The Battery Disconnect is a Dealer trick to reset faults without a full diagnostic check If you don't have a BMW capable code reader you may need the help of a Garage or may be a member on here near you to run a check. Dave

Morning John A common cause of brake judder is also the wish bone bushes going soft, the big heavy arm connected to the hub and the front of the car If you don't have a sticky calliper or warped disc get them to check it out Good luck Dave

Morning Ray Welcome to the Forum This is the first time I have heard this one so some "Genius" in BMW has found another way to try and hold onto your wallet??? Do they not realise they are actually driving folks away? There are a few aftermarket suppliers of Software upgrades now, try talking to Rusty at Satnav upgrades google will help Dave

Morning Dave As Stu has said first check the battery and make sure it is fully charged. If you disconnect the battery for 30mins minimum it will reset all codes. So good opportunity to disconnect and do an overnight charge. Are we dealing with a petrol or diesel variant ? The codes point to the Throttle body and its harness (so I guess petrol), it's not unheard of for the harness's to chafe and cause issue so test it carefully and check it for any sign of wear or damage. If you are not aware use www.raeloem.com to identify correct parts for replacement it is an online BMW parts list just put the last 7 digits of your Vin into the search box it will call up your model. Good Luck Dave

Morning Mike Welcome to the Forum As Stu says this is a really straight forward job to do, the BMW OEM kit was not cutting edge so unless you have OCD about originality go for it There are manufacturers like Dynavin that I know allow you to retain all the stalk and steering wheel functions and the unit is literally plug and play and designed to look OEM, plus as you have seen there are a whole raft of offers on E bay just remember the old saying you get what you pay for. ENJOY Dave

Morning John A lot of cars with adjustable rear suspension tend to be aggressive with the rear tyre inside edges. I have experienced this on several cars I have owned Mercs, to Subaru and of course the BMW's Volvos while not adjustable at the rear have a peculiar effect in that the front tyres wear oddly on the outside edges. On all the cars alignment checks showed everything to "be within Manufacturers tolerance" Tyre pressures were always spot on. First noticed when we ran Volvo 850's and V70's in our business as engineers cars.'So I started to check carefully all bushes and mountings on the suspension and was able to compare a new car to a car with 50+k on the clock that was just starting to show odd wear. Rear bushes all seemed in good order but if I was aggressive with a pry bar there was more movement in the higher mileage car. So we re=bushed the rear suspension had alignment checked problem fixed. That was in the early/mid 90's and with all the following cars the bush wear at the rear has been the culprit. With both X5's (very similar set up to your 325) the Rose bush in the set up starts to go soft so that under load the toe in is altered, result wear to the inside edge. Experience has taught me that once wear begins re-bush the rear suspension not just the obvious suspect as an example a complete kit for the rear of the X5 is around £300 just did the job for the 2nd time on my X5 so much cheaper than a set of tyres. It seems that the rubber bushes have a service life of between 60 to 80k depending on use and conditions That is where I would look I would also bite the bullet and change the lot Dave

Morning Ben Welcome to the Forum Lost Power? Electrical or Engine ? All our answers will be guess's on so little information If its Electrical could be a whole raft of things so if you can't DIY you need an Auto Electrician or good Garage. If it's Engine have you continued driving it with reduced power?? Again if you can't DIY you need help it could be Turbo or Turbo actuator related it could be a fuel pump issue or injector issue it could be EGR related. A full Diagnostic session is needed. Dave

Is it Cured ??