Greydog

Morning William Welcome to the Forum I can't offer much help other than this the rear light cluster will need a new gasket set if removed I believe the rear cluster is LED so a search for "How to's" on repair may yield something. Good Hunting Dave

Morning Joshua Welcome to the Forum Tasty car ENJOY Dave

So what was plugged in that wasn't there when testing? Phone charger? Rear entertainment system? Where did you monitor the current drain? At the battery or at the charging point under the bonnet? You have changed the battery is it correct for the car and was it registered to the car to ensure correct charging. Important point only ever charge at the charging points under the bonnet never direct at the battery or damage can be caused to the cars onboard systems. Dave

Talk to the seller (hopefully a Garage) and get them to fix it, it could be simply a low battery that needs a good run or charging. Or it may be something that needs more investigation. Dave

As the engine is not running in E mode it makes sense that if electric pump is not running the coolant won't circulate that is where I would start Dave

If you go back to Realoem first look at the Engine section you will see where the Waterpump and Thermostat housing are mounted To get to them you do have to take off acoustic covers and other bits. If you look at the Radiator section you will find the Electric Water Pump. As your diagnostics are showing 0 movement have you checked associated fuses and relays? One of the main advantages of using a BMW diagnostic program such as ISTA is it come with BMW workshop information and diagrams. Realoem is a part of the diagnostic as well making sure if buying parts you get the right part number. Slow warm up is normally a sign of a thermostat failed in the fully open position (or even a missing one) Dave

Main fuse relay box under the bonnet

Morning Dave A number of things to check (1) is the car going to sleep? When shut down and locked the "P" symbol remains lit while systems shut down it can take 15mins or so for it to extinguish. If it doesn't then some system is keeping the car awake and drawing power. (2) Have any toys or accessories been added ? The alarm bonnet switch has been a favourite over the years (unplugging it often sees the drain stop) as has the audio system pulling fuses is often the only laborious way to find issues. Dave

Morning Steve Take a look at www.realoem.com you can search by model or Vin number the small exploded drawings are very helpful Dave

I take it both new key fobs are Genuine BMW? Footwell Control Module been checked? Dave

Morning Julian While diagnostic apps are a good guide they don't fix things on their own. Take a look at www.realoem.com put the last 7 digits of your Vin into the search box it will bring up your model. Then search the sections for information, each section will provide small exploded drawings showing where things fit. I have never had an F45 to fiddle with but from memory there is an Electric coolant pump is that running? The electric coolant pump works alongside the main engine driven water pump and thermostat if the thermostat is stuck or failed it will need changing if I was in there I would change the water pump as a precaution. Dave

Hi Rod Welcome to the Forum Never tried, you may find information with BMW UK Classic section, or talk to an Upholsterer My experience tells me they will say try it on an area that isnt obvious first ? Dave

Morning Dee Welcome to the Forum To be sure you need a scan with BMW capable diagnostics the codes you have are Generic so while a pointer are not specific Dave

As you changed the Battery have you been into settings on the car and reset stuff in there also check the main thermostat Dave

Hi Bill Welcome to the Forum First Google BMW Specialists there is a register so yo should find one nearby who will have all the experience to diagnose your car properly fingers crossed it may be something simpler Dave

Top man Happy New Year Dave

Hi Lynda Welcome to the Forum The symptoms you describe are classic transmission wind up. The cause is almost always mismatched tyres so check that tyres are (A) Correct sizes for your rims (B) If tyres are correct and in good condition then it could be that the Transfer case fluid needs changing If he changed the the transfer case motor BMW advise the Fluid be changed at the same time. Hope this helps Happy Christmas Dave

Hi Mark Welcome to the Forum ENJOY YOUR BEEMER Oh and there isnt much wrong with Jap cars my wife's car is a Subaru Outback with a full Perrin engine upgrade (just over 400 whp) most of our local boy racers have learned what it is over the years 🤣 Happy Christmas Dave

Morning Vasile Welcome to the Forum Sorry but I cant read the information you have posted so I am unable to help What are the symptoms and issue your having Dave

Hi Andrew Lucky you haven't got an E70 Transfer case oil I was quoted £60 a litre 😪 No I didn't pay it, got it from ZF a 1/3rd of the price Try ZF direct or a ZF Agent or if you have the part number try Euro Car Parts or Google Good Luck Happy Christmas Dave

Morning Richard Car change time always difficult First try as many as you can (extended test drive if possible) so you have a good comparison. The car condition and history are paramount don't just look at it check it online. If BMW is your choice, buying from a BMW Dealer will give some comfort as the car should come with an AUC Warranty. If buying from a Non BMW Dealer it may be worth paying for an AA/RAC report on the car and insisting on a Warranty (make sure it is in the sale price not and extra) My personal preference is as many bells and whistles as possible apart from a Sun Roof when you have AC/Climate control I don't see the point. If buying privately then you will be largely on your own so making all sensible checks would be essential Dave

Morning Shaun Welcome to the Forum The PDC system unfortunately only needs 1 sensor wonky to throw out the lot as you have discovered. The front sensors tend to live a harder life due to road spray being driven into them. The sensors are not difficult to change though on the front corners you do have to release the front bumper the corner sensors are different (angled) to the centre ones. When I did the job on my E53 4.6is I bit the bullet and changed all 4 that was 10 years ago still all good. As for high miles my 4.6is is on 164k and a friends 3.0d 2003 290k so with a little TLC they are tough cars, invest in a copy of BMW 1.4.0 it will allow Dealer level access and Diagnostics (about £25) ENJOY Dave

Morning Richard Welcome to the Forum If you buy from a BMW Dealer you should get a BMW AUC (BMW Approved Used Car) with a Warranty (make sure it is 12months). I would always go for the highest spec you can get as adding bells and whistles is rarely cheap or simple. If buying from a Non BMW Dealer condition, history and spec are the key drivers but also the Warranty (at least 12months) make sure it included in the screen price some of these guys are cute at supplying the minimum Warranty they can get away with and getting the customer to pay for any extension. Good Luck with the hunt Dave

Morning Julian Both my X5's are warm within a mile or two of driving off, maybe 5 mins in time. So you do have a problem my advice would be change the main thermostat. You need the codes read to find the fault on the e Drive heating Dave

Whoop Whoop well done Jim perseverance pays, now you can enjoy your BMW again Dave