Greydog

Ouch !! not good I hope you get things sorted out You could take a look at www.reaoem.com put the last 7 digits of your Vin into the search box you will get a parts list for your model the Clutch section will have a small exploded drawing that should help with where stuff fits (or should) might help you work out what's wrong Dave

Morning Keith Welcome to the Forum Silly question have you pressed the Central Locking button inside the car? Has this just started to happen ? Have you tried re-syncing the Key/Keys ? Could be a number of things so a scan using a BMW capable fault code reader would give more information Dave

Morning Ryan Welcome to the Forum You may be the first person to order rear wheel drive from "them", but there a 2 others not far from me that I am aware of. I am also unsure about the "less safe" bit I had to try really hard to unstick my AMG 63 CLS with a bit more grunt than the 240. So maybe the Dealer was on better commission for the Xdrive version 😁 So drive it and ENJOY it lucky boy Dave

G'day Andy My X5 4,6is is now at 164k (260+ Km) over the years I have replaced the suspension twice (bushes only last around 80k) removed and cleaned and powder coated the rear subframe. Suspension when changing upper and lower rear arms here in the UK they are always rusted solid so I don't mess around reciprocating saw sorts the bolts and I always order new ones before starting. Engine I rebuilt at 90k Gearbox Diffs and Transfer case serviced every 80k she runs really well but I am just retiring the old girl to preserve her (there are only 200 left in the UK) The replacement is an E70 X5 3.0d with 110k Seems you have covered most jobs so I guess you are up to speed with www.realoem.com a BMW online parts list and www.pelicanparts.com an American site with great how too's including pictures Good luck with your ongoing project Dave

Morning Scott I hope the "Mechanic" isn't a friend? Clearly they didn't have a clue what they were doing? You need to tell the guy you want it fixed properly in a sensible time frame not at his leisure, you need to put it in writing and explain that if he can't or wont then you will have no alternative but to have it fixed and recover all costs from him through the small claims court. You need the help of either a knowledgeable amateur with the right diagnostic program INPA/ISTA as these programs have the correct BMW repair information built in. If you don't have anyone near that can help a BMW Specialist will have the right kit and will be around half the cost of a Main Dealer Google BMW Specialists in your area Good luck Dave

Morning Loretta Not heard of this one before, my initial thoughts are a software glitch but that normally leaves some evidence behind I would guess the Dealer checked for any software upgrades while they had the car Fingers crossed it was a 1 off Dave

Morning Lusy Welcome to the Forum The X6 was designated E71 by BMW and made between 2007 and 2014 engines were from 3.0d through to the M5.0 There was a short rum of Hybrid models made for some markets between 2008 and 2011. In 2013 the F15 model was introduced with a similar engine range (though uprated) If you need more let us know Dave

Morning Callum Welcome to the Forum First rule when something like this happens is back track very carefully there are a couple of small wires and from memory a fuse on the battery terminal make sure they are all connected and the fuse is OK. Dave

Morning Eric Welcome to the Forum Units such as Engine and Turbo are basically "dumb" it is the control units that are out of sync BMW also store mileage in two places the FCM/LCM and the ZKE mileage must be within 250 miles for each or you will get a tamper dot. Not trying to "teach Granny" as you have done a lot of work, have you checked YouTube there were a couple of pretty good "How Too's" there awhile ago for using INPA to re-program control units. Did you get the keys with the CAS unit? Or have the issues just started? I would use INPA and run a full diagnostic check first and Note any control unit faults Dave

Morning Andy Welcome to the Forum Dave

Hi Joseph You can check the correct BMW recommended tyre and wheel sizes and alternatives using www.realoem.com it is a BMW online parts list just put the last 7 digits of your Vin number into the search box it will bring up your model then check the relevant section. 205 55 R16 seems about right Dave

Morning James About 2hrs to do the X5 fortunately mine has a cast alloy sump so less danger of distorting it. The ZF manual recommends service at between 80000 and 100000 kilometers depending on use. Sadly BMW used to say "sealed for life" so many cars out there have never had the box touched. Great price on the ZF service kit Dave

Morning James I have no experience of Millers products though I am fully aware of their products and they are a well established Company I do however some experience of four failed ZF boxes (3 auto and 1 manual) on friends and neighbours cars where alternate Fluids had been used in service. My last service on my X5 4.6is ZF 5 speed cost £340 Fluid and filter and seals I always flush the torque converter too. So I would guess around £500 to £600 for parts and fluid for the 8 speed plus labour if your not a DIY fan For me it is about balancing the cost of a ZF OEM service against a rebuilt or new box. I trust it is a service as a fluid change wont fix a fault. Just my thoughts Dave

Morning Joseph You can 5-40 is a BMW alternative but normally used in areas with high average temps or in a worn engine as long as it meets the required Fully Synthetic standards. As a guide my 4.6iis X5 still runs 5-30 at 163k, I do however change oils and filter every 5 or 6k Dave

Morning Darren Great news so now ENJOY your new Beemer Dave

Morning Adam Welcome to the Forum Very nice, if you aren't aware check www.realoem.com it is a BMW online parts list put the last 7 digits of your Vin into the search box it will bring up your model. Each section has small exploded drawings that will help with where stuff fits and how and obviously you will have the correct part numbers. Double click the part number and you will see any alternatives. Don't ignore your BMW Dealer many give excellent discounts on Classic models and BMW UK have a growing Classic support section Dave

Hi Steve Brakes should only get hot when in use unless of course something is sticking/binding A common cause of vibration when slowing is worn suspension bushes in the traction strut they have a life of around 80 to 100k depending on use. Then there are the thoughts you have already had distorted discs are easy enough to check with a pointer fixed to the chassis and just touching the disc edge turn the disc and any run out should be easy to see. You can get the disc and pads deglazed if there is no distortion Dave

Morning Darren Welcome to the Forum The 2.2 engine always had a reputation for good fuel economy somewhere in the high 20's around town so I suspect you have an issue (or 2) I would start with the obvious such as, Tyres are the inflated correctly, Brakes nothing binding ? When was the car last serviced? Dave

Hi If you are losing settings then some thing in the registration isn't right or one of the components has an issue. Sadly I think you need the help of a specialist, do you have a BMW specialist near by? Dave

Morning Joseph It will depend on how the car has been lowered if the last owner was a Neanderthal they could have done it the stupid way and either heated the spring or cut a coil off. Solution new standard springs. If they used a set of propriety lowering springs (many available) then as above a new set of standard springs will be the fix If your luck they may have fitted a set of fully adjustable shock/spring set in which case you may be able to restore the ride height by simple adjustment. However ride comfort may not change if they also fitted a higher rate spring set. Changing them is a DIY proposition but you will need a set decent set of spring compressors and spanners a jack and axel stands. Obviously if using a garage then you will have a cost for labour and parts Good Luck Dave

Hi Stefan Welcome to the Forum Not good news as with all these things it depends what caused the seizure and what other damage has occurred to the internals if you have a warranty a rebuil with a specialist may be the way if not !! Sadly I think your decision is the cost of a rebuild against a re-furbished or replacement engine I would talkto some of the BMW Engine specialists. Dave

Morning Joseph Your hand book should give some clues BMW use 5-30 Fully Synthetic LL04 grade or higher (many other manufacturers use similar) as this meets their extended service schedule requirements. However if you service your car as I do, a minimum of annually then any reasonable 5-30 Fully Synthetic will do if you check Euro Car parts, Halfords etc online you can often find deals 2 weeks ago I brought 2x Castrol Magnatec 5-30 at Halfords for £27 a 4litre can (normally around £35) then used my Halfords Discount card 😄 I only went in for car shampoo and some polish. Dave

Morning Stu In a word NO your BMW 1.4.0 works with the I-bus system used by BMW up until around 2006 when they went to D-can then if memory serves around 2010/11 they went to K+D-can. So the lead is different the OBD pinout is different. With my brother inlaws G31 model we pulled up a you tube video and reset it through the cars system you should be able to do the same. Dave

That is simple just check www.realoem.com just put the last 7 digits of your Vin number into the search box it will bring up your model that will give you all the standard stuff then check the performance models like the 4.0d, M series cars. When you look at the brakes section it will show a small exploded drawing with all parts numbered so when you have the disc size it should give a part number for the caliper bracket bolts and maybe the caliper if it is different. Just had a quick look it seems your discs are for the 4.0d and only the caliper brackets are different Dave

Morning Nathan OK more information thanks, first I would back track over all work carried out check carefully the Pinout changes that have been made to the connectors also check carefully the Earth connections. BMW are very fond of using Earth connection triggers. If one of the altered pinouts are incorrect you could have a damaged unit? Now registration sequences, if your FRM was faulty it is quite possible the registration of the other components wasn't accepted. So what Diagnostic Program are you using ? If it is INPA/ISTA I would scan to check all units are being seen if they are then disconnect the battery for 30 mins (Neg first) When reconnected with the Diagnostic tool start with the FRM make sure it is registered correctly with all functions confirmed. Next same process with the CIC. If the pinouts are correct earth connections clean and in good order the units are registered correctly and the enabling codes are OK it should work, unless of course it is damaged or not compatible with your car. Dave