Greydog

Hi Stephen You are not the first and I doubt very much the last to suffer this. Clumsy boy 😁 So a question first, have you stripped the plug? Or the thread in the sump? If the plug is stripped cleaning the threads in the sump and a new plug should do it. If it is the sump, then a Helicoil Insert is the answer to do the job correctly you should drop the sump to ensure no swarf is left inside. BMW themselves do an insert repair kit so there is a possibility in that direction but obviously with more £ attached You should find several Videos on the net showing how to do it. Basically run the helicoil drill through use the Helicoil tap and then insert the the helicoil insert liberally coated with thread loc I have also seen a repair using a slightly over size replacement sump plug which works well your original sump plug is M12 1.5 search the net for an M12 1.75 self-threading plug or ask your local motor factors which should only be a few £s and with care will solve your problem without removing the sump Fingers crossed for you Dave

Morning I would think issues at the fuel tank would normally manifest themselves with erratic running or poor starting, that is how I have experienced fuel tank pressure issues in the past, oh for the days when you just swapped the fuel cap!! Talked to my friend in the US who tells me your exhaust is a single pipe system to the rear box which has twin tail pipes. The exhaust flap was fitted to the right-hand side to reduce noise during the warmup period and from your description is working OK. The turbo and DPF retain a lot of heat after shutting down, so condensation is the probable cause. He has seen leaks at the turbo cooling system that gave white vapour, but the cooling system also needed topping up Hope this helps not hinders Dave

Take a look at www.realoem.com put the last 7 digits of your Vin into the search box it will call up your model then search the fuel tank section. It will have small, exploded drawings which should help understand where stuff fits and how. I will take a look on my garage laptop INPA/ISTA BMW Diagnostics has both TIS (technical information system) and WIS (workshop information system) built in so there may be something there. Just spoken with a friend I have in the USA and it seems BMW did in fact put an extended 10year/120k warranty on this part but it was not a recall apparently just support if a customer had an issue. It may be worth talking to BMW UK customer services if you haven't already to see if you can get some help there Dave

Hi Gabriel Yes, the door panel as you call it can be removed with a torx screwdriver and a trim removal tool Behind it is a clear plastic waterproof membrane stuck to the door with a mastic type adhesive. If someone has been in there for some reason, they may have torn the membrane (seen that a few times) or not put it back correctly. If you're DIYing to check, use your wife's hairdryer to soften the mastic before pulling at it. If the membrane is torn, you could try a repair with something like gaffer tape. Dave

Morning Gabriel Welcome to the Forum The obvious is have you had passengers in and out of the back ? If not the are the windows closed right up ? If they are then check the door seals and make sure the membrane behind the door cards are in place and not torn or badly fitted. Dave

Morning Rod Welcome to the Forum Never had one of these to look at or play with so this is just me thinking out loud 1. White smoke, experience tells me it is either water vapour caused by condensation in the exhaust or as suggested possibly an engine breather fault. The key would be smell if it is breather related it will have a strong smell also breather issues normally manifest themselves after the engine has been ticking over for a while. Water vapour will have very little smell and clear quickly as the exhaust warms up. 2. You say a mechanic wants to investigate/correct a fuel tank pressure sensor fault? Logic tells me that a fuel delivery issue would cause either over fuelling (a strong smell of unburnt fuel) or very poor erratic running along with erratic performance/MPG. Have you had the issue investigated by a BMW Dealer or BMW Specialist? If this sensor issue is cleared, does it return straight away? On most models the fuel tank pressure sensor is faily easy to access test and change if needed. BMW like many other manufacturers tend to aknowledge even possible Warranty issues faster in the USA due to the different legal system, while here in Europe as you have discovered things are very different. Dave

Morning Robin Who needs Navigation when you have a car like yours 😁 An Aussie once told your never lost until your below a 1/4 of a tank of gas 🤣 BMW (and a few other German marques) for years never believed in 7-digit post codes? Having said that my E53 (original Nav system) might not believe in 7 digit post codes but it does ask House name or number. My E70 is upgraded to an Android system so I have a choice of Google Maps, Waze or Igo all very quick to program. My experience of BMW (Volvo and Mercedes for that matter) OEM systems is the input seems laborious compared to many aftermarket systems available Enjoy that Beemer Dave

Sorry Steven I have been having enough problems with the DVLA just getting the V5 back on a recent purchase ?? I gave up trying online and used a local Post Office to Tax and chase the V5 for me? Apparently if I haven't received the V5 in 4 to 6 weeks I can apply for a new one but then I have the pleasure of paying £25 for the privilege Not any help but Good Luck Dave

Morning Joyce Welcome to the Forum Which X3 do you have Petrol or Diesel? Which engine there are 7 or 8 options, manual or Automatic all information that will help us. Has a diagnostic scan been carried out BMW systems will retain fault history so even a fault not present can be identified. You will need a BMW capable diagnostic program though something along the lines of BMW INPA or ISTA would be best or Foxwell or I-carsoft there may be others now that I am not aware of as I use BMW ISTA. Dave

Morning Kevin Welcome to the Forum From memory the Drive shafts are equal length (left and right) but shouldn't be swapped as it changes the direction, they have been designed to take torque which will cause a premature failure Manual and Automatic cars I believe used the same length drive shafts, but Diff ratio was different and there may be differences in output flange hole centres. Manual cars may also have thicker drive shafts. If you check www.realoem.com if you aren't aware, it is an online BMW parts list, put the last 7 digits of your Vin into the search box it will call up your model. Then search the sections for what you need when you find the part number double click it and it will give any alter numbers or models it was used on. Hope this helps Dave

Morning Michael Welcome to the Forum First you say a Diagnostic has been run? Using which diagnostic equipment? A general OBD scanner or out of date BMW system will not be capable of seeing individual control units. A scan with an up-to-date BMW capable Diagnostic program may show more. You say the Battery is fully charged, I hope that when it was charged it was at the charging points under the bonnet or disconnected before charging if done at the battery. If the battery was connected to the car and a charger/booster attached there could be damage to several control units. The fact your mechanic has 3 other cars with the same problem would worry me. The Dealer cannot help or will not help? That again is a worry for me normally they can't wait to take your money. So, to your problem First principles of combustion 4 things are needed Compression, Fuel, Air and Ignition I would start with a compression test, assuming all is OK the next test is Fuel. Is there fuel at each injector has their harness been checked, what is the fuel rail pressure? Is it correct if it is OK if not check Fuel Pumps Filter and fuel rail sensors and fuel lines for blockages. Air MAF checked and tested Air Filter OK no leaks on the Induction side? Ignition, are all plugs in good condition and correct for the car, are all ignition coils tested and working, has the loom been tested and checked. Finally, timing has that been checked are cam and crank sensors OK and tested? Are the engine earth straps in good order. If the above is OK then time for a full Diagnostic scan. Attention should be paid to any Control Unit that is greyed out or not accessible. You could have an issue with the stop/start button, gearshift switch a relay or fuse. BMW Diagnostic Equipment needs to be up to date As an example BMW 1.4.0 will read vehicles up to 2005/6 when the Bus system was updated, from then on you need INPA which will read all models up to around 2012/13 after that date ISTA is needed all these programs are backwards compatible. There are now some BMW capable systems from Carly, Foxwell and Icarsoft. The advantage with BMW programs such as INPA/ISTA is they have WIS (workshop Information systems) and TIS (technical information systems) built in Bit of a ramble but I hope it helps Dave

Then you may need the help of someone with BMW capable diagnostics to enable the closing function through the FRM (footwell control module) A good Independent Garage or BMW Specialist or perhaps a member near you who has the right diagnostic kit Dave

Morning Mike Welcome to the Forum Seems you posted in the X5 slot not 1 series Suspension shocks and bushes dependent on use I always think 80 to 100k is the point when it all starts to get a bit stiff and jolty (bit like me as I get older) My x5 4.6is I have changed all bushes twice and shocks once, the E70 I have just ordered a suspension rebuild kit (bushes and arms front and rear) My wife's Subaru shocks and bushes were changed at 75k. That keeps the ride on our cars as they should be. What it doesn't account for is the state of our roads in Sussex, local to us is a road (bus route) through a housing estate I think if they ploughed it, it would be smoother. So, you may be suffering from a combination of hardening bushes, low profile tyres and a stiffening body 😂 (yours not the car) Dave

Morning Craig Welcome to the Forum As with any purchase of a used car History History History and not just the service book, check the MOT history too. The advisories list tells a story about how well a car has been maintained. Suspension bushes have a life, normally around 80 to 100k so be prepared for work that may be needed there. Also, around 80 to 100k I would expect a gearbox service to be due or evidence it's been done. Then it's the obvious Wheels & Tyres, preferably all the same make with no signs of odd wear Body work all good, and interior clean no stains rips or tears. If so far so good, then test drive. A good long drive to make sure it's up to temperature no knocks clunks or rattles brakes work with no pulling or snatching. When back leave it ticking over and make sure all accessories work all lights are OK AC/Climate control is good. Then get out and check under the car and the bonnet for and leaks (remember you will get some water dripping from the AC) Good Luck and if it works out ENJOY Dave

Morning Graham Welcome to the Forum From memory (always a dangerous thing) you have 2 Cam position sensors and 2 Vanos solenoids I think you may be looking at the inlet cam sensor. I rebuilt a version of this engine a few years ago for a friend of our sons if I remember correctly the left Cam Position sensor has a direct plug connection the Right Cam (inlet) position sensor has a lead attached. The Vanos solenoids are hidden under and at the back of the Vanos unit Take a look at www.realoem.com a BMW online parts list put the last 7 digits of your Vin into the search box and it will call up your model. Then Engine section and Vanos sub section when you have the Part Number if you double click on it you should get a list of alternate part numbers and models it was used on. Then google the part number for best price/supply. Also worth looking at wwwpelicanparts.com an American site but their articles section has some really great "How Too's" with pictures Good Luck hope this helps Dave

Morning Art Welcome to the Forum My brother inlaw runs Continental Extreme on his 540d xDrive Touring I don't think he has ever got close to 50k but that is possibly his driving style 🤣 He has used the Continental Extreme on two cars now he likes them for their consistent grip in varied conditions across Europe

Morning Gary I hope the recovery continues well, when putting it back first make sure you have spare clips, plastic blind rivets and screws. Being held up because a few have been lost or broken is a pain (been there), as far as the work talk to a detailer or mobile mechanic their hourly rates should be more competitive. Having changed an interior for one of our sons I would expect between 10 and 15 hrs labour Good Luck and get well Dave

Hi Alex Welcome to the Forum Turning off the screen never tried it but I am told press and hold the menu button for 10secs then after an additional 20/30secs a beep will confirm screen off, I have to ask why? Again, I have been told about this site but never used them: download.cnet.com/The-BMW-Collection-Screensaver/30 Dave

Morning Tony Welcome to the Forum I know there are Roll Over Protection hoops as I have helped change some on the same model you have for a friend of my brother inlaw, Not sure about the wind deflector though I would take a look at www.realoem.com if you are not aware it is an online parts list for all BMW models. Just put the last 7 digits of your Vin into the search box it will call up your model (in the classic section) then go through the sections Hood/Top and Trim sections should have information about what you need. It may be worth looking at early Z4 models as well (search manually) as often around model change mounting points may well be the same. Make sure you measure carefully if looking at this solution before parting with your hard earned. Dave

Hi Steve Mirrors I take it you have power fold mirrors ? Have you tried pressing the lock button on your fob and holding it down, the reverse when unlocking press and hold the unlock button ? Never seen any clear protectors I guess you have tried an Internet search for after market stuff ? Last the load area protector on my wife's Subaru estate we have a boot liner which has a fold out protector, another internet session I think Good luck and Enjoy your Beemer Dave

Morning Glyn Not sure what tyres you are on (Bridgestone or Michelin) so I am surprised you find wet handling a bit off. Or was it the recent rain on greasy roads making busy roundabouts into skid pans. How worn are your OEM set? runflats are known for showing weird behaviour when near end of life. Your current tyres are probably 285x35x21 Front 325x30x21 Rear, so changing to non-runflat won't be cheap plus I am not sure if there is a space saver spare available. My E53 4.6is with 20" wheels has a small compressor and a can of sealant due to tyre sizes. My E70 has the same set up and no spare just the compressor, both cars are in daily use and in 160+k on the 4.6is and many sets of tyres I have suffered 1 slow puncture (nail in the tyre) and 1 incident of tyre damage (pot hole) The E70 is just over 100k and touch wood no issues at all. So punctures with modern tyres seem rare. So I would get the small compressor and sealant BMW sell them if you want to stay OEM or Halfords if you want to save some of your hard earned. Plus word of warning if a space saver was used it only takes around 2mm difference in rolling radius across an axel or front to rear to kill a transfer box or diff which I believe is why BMW stopped supplying them (along with all the money they saved, Wheel Tyre Jack Wheel brace) Dave

Good point Stu so not a stupid question at all, the obvious is often forgotten. Makes you worry if the dealer didn't see it though?? Dave

Morning Magneti Starters there was an issue with them when they were starting to fail they would pull massive amps at cold start killing batteries. Several owners changed batteries when it was the starter at fault a guy with a 5 series not far from me had 2 batteries (one changed under warranty) I put a Clamp Ammeter on the starter cable and measured 940amps at cold start, So as Stu says get the starter checked but check all connections first and check the engine earth straps (seen a few of those) Of course if all those are OK more digging required Dave

Hi Gavin All you can do is go over what you did step by step, make sure each step is confirmed if you can, never done the job but it seems straight forward enough. Maybe do a battery re-set before you start to make sure all is back to a clean start point. Good Luck Dave

Morning Jim In the UK there are several Classic Car specialists that would always be my starting point then the general adds. Have you tried BMW USA they have a classic section here for help with spares they may have the same there and knowledge of ones for sale Good hunting Dave