Greydog

Hi Vin A BMW Dealer with the cars Vin and sight of the V5 to confirm you are the owner should be able to supply a printout of the Service history plus the correct Service Book Being a BMW Dealer there will be a charge of course If you are not already aware there is an online BMW Parts list www.realoem.com if you put the last 7 digits of your Vin into the search box it will bring up information for your model. Essential when buying parts or spares to make sure you get the correct item and it will fit, you may find service book information there. Dave

Morning Richard I brought a BMW wheel jack from a BMW Dismantler cut off the locating plate that fits into the body jacking points. I then welded it to a piece of tube that sits comfortably/securely on the circular lifting pad on my trolley/floor jack. I place axel stands under the front or rear subframes. Hope that makes sense and doesn't confuse Dave

Morning Vin Welcome to the Forum Have you tried your Dealer just supply them with your Vin and a look at the V5 and I am sure they will help. If buying online you will obviously need one for a 3 series diesel the only question is is your car an E46 or E90 Dave

Morning Ben Welcome to the Forum Did they flicker and mess around before the change of Bulb? Are your Lamps Halogen or Xenon ? First I would check the simple things are there any loose connections anywhere plus check the earth connection are good and there is no corrosion anywhere. If all connections are clean and the lamps are Halogen then check the switch. If they are Xenon then also check The Xenon control unit take care as this unit holds a high voltage discharge so if you don't know what your about get someone who does to help. Finally, it could be a fault with the FCM/LCM (Footwell control Module/Light control Module) The best action here will be a Diagnostic Scan using a GOOD BMW capable system preferably ISTA/INPA or similar Dave

Fantastic result Atto Well done matey Dave

Morning Jon Welcome to the Forum Ouch not a good situation to be in scary to. You have the obvious choice of BMW but the costs will be high by comparison to the aftermarket. I take it you know the wheel Style and Size? Here in the UK we have a number of BMW specialist dismantlers who are a great source of parts, shipping may make it a No No though Have you tried Googling BMW Dismantlers in your area of the US. You could also try contacting Pelican Parts they are an American outfit who are very knowledgeable and helpful Good Luck Dave

Morning Richard Welcome to the Forum Very tasty choice of car (let's hope you don't have to learn about BMW's 😆) but if we can help we will ENJOY Dave

Morning Robert Welcome to the Forum A little confused as there seem to be a number of seeming unrelated issues 1st you had a water pump drive issue, when the belt came off was there any other damage caused? You replaced the Pump it's tensioner and the Radiator (was the rad damaged/leaking) You ran a scan and found codes for Misfires and Crank sensor so changed Plugs, Coil Packs and the Fuel pump relay. Before you had the water pump issue was the car running well? Did you change the fuel pump relay because of the No Start situation or a fault? You say "Fuel shoots out of the Rail" which indicates fuel pressure (have you measured it you should have around 3bar) so why a new fuel pump? I would begin by checking the engine earth straps are sound and connected, check the current the starter is drawing a faulty starter motor can draw huge amps starving the rest of the system. Check the injectors are firing, check there is a spark at the plugs, check the MAF, check there are no vacuum or air leaks. Last but not least what Diagnostic system do you use? Dave

Hi Alex Welcome to the Forum Not sure what you are asking here what exactly do you think is defective ? Dave

Hi John Welcome to the Forum There was a post in the 5series section who had the same problem He found this website which seemed to offer a solution here it is https://xenons4u.co.uk/185920-00-led-module.html?utm He hasnt posted to say whether it was successful or not, could be worth a look Good Luck Dave

Hi Gordon If you look at the back of your Headunit you will see the connection pins which slide down each side of the blue strips (the larger block at the bottom Looking at your Quadloc which comes from the cars loom again look at the radio and you have 2 sets of 12 pins above the main pins where the blue strips go. Yet your cars Quadloc only has 1 connector in that position I have a feeling that is why you have no DAB. That connector I believe links to the separate DAB unit Also look at the back of your radio unit you see the main radio antenna (larger white connector) there are 3 other connectors I think the Mauve/Brown connector (I think that is the Bluetooth antenna) Green (I think could be DAB) Yellow (I think could be Nav) So a quick look at realoem shows your model headunit as part number 9143228 the unit you have is part number 9246503 Bit more digging needed I think then you may need some additional loom extensions and DAB to get it working as you want it Dave

Lots of negotiating power with the SL all based on history at around 100k the timing chain should be changed? Gearbox service? Diff service The timing chain and guides can all be done with the engine in the car and from the top (2 special tools but I hired them when I did it) Dealer told me impossible had to be front off the car or engine out he quoted £2.5k in 2005. It took me a Saturday but taking my time. So if the dealer isn't a specialist, you may be able to worry him into a significant price drop. Good luck if the Chancellor is happy you're moving in the right direction Dave

Morning John My guess would be Earth corrosion often causes poor earth due to condensation/water in the tailgate/boot lid Trace the earth wire back if you have power that will be the issue I bet Dave

Morning Gordon Welcome to the Forum The fact that the head unit you have has those items handwritten on the back seems to me to indicate it has been replaced/repaired at some time so possibly isn't original to the car. I would check a BMW VIN Decoder to see what Audio was fitted OEM it should show a code like S633A You can also check www.realoem.com its a BMW online parts list, put the last 7 digits of your Vin into the search box it will call up your model then search the Audio section it should show what was OEM double click the part number and it will give a list of alternative models and part numbers From memory the DAB unit was a separate unit if it isn't there that would explain no DAB, if I am correct you also need a DAB capable antenna. Same with Bluetooth check there is a bluetooth antenna. Also if the original Quadloc connector on the cars loom doesn't have the connections in it it won't see the function on the radio or be able to power it. Don't despair there are Pinout diagrams available for the Quadloc connector which will show what pins should be there and connected. Dave

Morning Tony It would make your legs and shoulders ache having to stretch over for the controls 🤣🤣 Whatever it is I hope you find a good one Dave

Morning Richard Welcome to the Forum First as with buying any used car check everything very carefully make sure all documentation is correct and check it. If you are not mechanically minded get someone who is to come with you or get an RAC/AA check done. Assuming everything is OK test drive always make it a good test drive make sure everything works all bells and whistles are working. Obviously if the gear change is faulty it would show on the test if there were an issue either tell them fix it or no sale or just walk away. I have read about sticky changes between 1st and 2nd but have never had one to play with so can't help with what the cause is. Auto boxes have a manual setting so you can change gear if you really want to. I got my first Auto in the early 1980's and have only driven manuals when we have used a hire car since then (and not very often) Modern automatic boxes are just as economical as manuals and in some cases better so don't discount them Dave

So you have owned the car for almost 3 years brough from a BMW Dealer and described as a BMW Approved Used Car. Yet you have discovered it has an incomplete service history, how about recalls? have they been attended to? If you Gearbox specialist has other 2 series in for repair then an internet search should turn up others Have a read of this The Consumer Rights Act was introduced on 1 October 2015 and covers all goods and services purchased thereafter from official traders. The Consumer Rights Act 2015 replaced the previous Sale of Goods Act and some other legislations, like the Unfair Terms in Consumer Contracts Regulations and the Supply of Goods and Services Act. Generally, the Consumer Rights Act 2015 offers car buyers more rights by covering the sale of new and used cars, as well as services such as car repairs and maintenance. The Consumer Rights Act still retains some of the Sale of Goods Act’s crucial demands that all products must be meet the following criteria. Please note that, while we make every effort to ensure this page is kept up to date, we strongly encourage you to visit sites like Citizen’s Advice and Money Advice Service for the latest impartial advice on legal matters. This article does not constitute legal advice, its aim to is to make you aware of which rights are available for further investigation – we cannot say whether they would or would not apply in individual circumstances. 1. Of satisfactory quality • This means the vehicle bought by you shouldn’t be damaged or faulty • If you buy a new vehicle, it should function as expected • If you buy a second-hand vehicle, its condition and performance should be reasonable • All vehicles should be roadworthy, safe and reliable • The vehicle’s condition should match its age, price and mileage • The quality should match the make and model’s standard, and the vehicle should be as described and advertised 2. Fit for particular purpose • The car should be able to fulfil the purpose it’s bought for by functioning as it’s normally expected to • For example, a 7.5-tonne truck should be able to carry goods weighing up to the promised carry weight or a car’s top speed should match the advertised mph 3. As described • The vehicle you buy should match the description in the adverts or the sample model showed in a showroom • The vehicle’s specs and appearance should be the same as what was mentioned before the purchase • Second-hand cars’ condition and performance should be as described If the car or any other goods and service purchased by you don’t meet any of these three criteria, you may have the following options under the Consumer Rights Act. Again, consult Citizen’s Advice and Money Advice Service for a detailed explanation of whether these rights apply in your situation. 1. Right to reject If the goods or service fails to meet one or more of these criteria, and you can prove these issues were present before you bought the car, you should have the option to reject the product within the first 30 days of buying it. If you reject the product within this time period, you should be entitled to a refund without undue delay and within 14 days of the dealer agreeing to the refund. Previously, with the Sale of Goods Act, this period to reject the product was defined as ‘reasonable time’ which left the timeframe open for interpretation. This ‘short-term right to reject’ also replaces the previous rule which said that retailers only needed to repair or replace a faulty item or part. 2. Right to a repair or replacement If you find a defect after 30 days, but within six months, you can request a car repair or replacement. The dealer chooses which is the best and more affordable option for them, so you usually can’t ask for your preferred choice. You are entitled to this right if the fault was there at the time of delivery, unless the seller can prove it wasn’t. The Consumer Rights Act stipulates that dealers will only get one chance to repair or replace the product, so dealers can’t make multiple attempts to fix a problem unless otherwise agreed. If they fail to remedy the fault in one attempt or within a reasonable time period, you’ll be entitled to a full or partial refund. Alternatively, you can ask for another attempt at repairing/ replacing or for financial compensation. The law says, in almost every case, there can be no reductions from any refund given in the first six months. However, motor vehicles are the one exception, where the seller can make a ‘reasonable’ reduction for the amount the car has been used. The Consumer Rights Act helped at overcoming the previous legislation’s drawback where dealers were allowed more than one attempt at repairing or replacing the product and it was more difficult to get a refund. Consumer Rights Act 2015: key points summary • The Consumer Rights Act 2015 applies to England, Wales, Scotland and Northern Ireland • Your rights under Consumer Rights Act only apply to vehicles bought from a registered trader. If you buy a car from a private seller or at an auction, you’re not covered by this legislation, but by other laws. • Consumer Rights Act is applicable for goods and service bought on or after 1 October 2015 • Sale of Goods Act applies to any vehicles bought before 1 October 2015 • You can seek compensation or a refund after six months of purchasing the vehicle, but it’ll be up to you to prove the fault was there at the time of delivery • The dealer isn’t responsible for any natural wear and tear that happens to your vehicle over time What to do if something goes wrong with your car • Get in touch with the dealer immediately and address the problem with your car or service purchased • Make sure you note down and address the fault clearly and in detail – taking photos and keeping a note of the time and date of when the fault occurred can be helpful • Keep a record of your conversations with the dealer • Get all verbal agreements and exchanges down on paper so that you can refer back if needed • If the dealer mentions any cost of repairs, make sure you understand the cost and agree only if you’re okay with it • Get in touch with Consumer Advice for more guidance on your situation I think you have a fairly strong case as the car had no history so items 1 and 3 was it of satisfactory quality and as advertised Dave

Hi Caroline Definitely start a conversation in writing with the selling garage and BMW UK stating the facts, how long have you owned the car? 1. The car was sold to you as an Approved Used BMW but no Service history? How and Why 2. The Consumer rights legislation is on your side particularly if you purchased within the last 6 months it is assumed the fault was present at the time of purchase. Gather all the information you can regarding other 2 series failures from the Internet doesn't matter which country as it will amount to demonstrating an inherent fault. If BMW (the selling Dealer) won't help or BMW UK write to the Motor Ombudsman sending all the information you could well get full costs plus some compensation for inconvenience Good Luck

Hi Malcolm Welcome to the Forum All Run Flat tyres tend to generate more noise as they approach end of life tyres also tend to be very personal choice. My X5 4.6is runs a staggered set up 20" rims 285/40/20 Front 315/35/20 to protect the drive train I change front and rear together, and I have run Bridgestone Michelin and Pirelli. My E70 X5 same size wheels is currently on Continental Of all the tyres the choice is difficult between Continental and Michelin for road noise wear and fuel consumption When I ran the AMG E55's and AMG CLS 63 tyres never lasted very long no matter what the make if rear tyres lasted 15 to 20k my son said I was driving like Miss Daisy 🤣 Dave

Hi Caroline Welcome to the Forum You don't say what engine and whether its Automatic or Manual I also hope that's 47000 miles not 470,000 First who has told you the gearbox is finished? What symptoms are you getting? BMW Dealers are notorious for telling customers the gearbox is "Sealed for Life" when in fact they are not, they are a fully serviceable item made by ZF (Both Manual and Automatic) 47k seems very low for a dead gearbox my X5 4.6is is at 165k the gearbox has been serviced twice in that time. I would enter a dialogue with BMW looking for at least a contribution towards repair, I would also find a reputable Gearbox specialist (Google ZF Specialists) and talk to them they should be able to check the gearbox software and read any faults and advise you properly. A freind of one of our sons owns a 2.0d 1 series his gearbox kept going into restricted performance mode, his car is around 150k the Dealer quoted a huge price to fit a new gearbox we carried out a fluid and filter change (all parts brought from ZF) problem fixed cost £220 and he still owes me the beer he promised!! I am not suggesting that is a fix for you as your gearbox is a complicated thing but a specialist would be my route Dave

Our Dealers are quite good at "selling" up (someone has to pay for the free coffee" but in the UK we have some great legislation to protect buyers (in all areas) the killer phrase in the legislation is "Item not suitable for purpose". So basically, if the Dealer can't supply a vehicle (0r whatever it is you brought) in tip top condition that meets the sales description it's money back time or a complete replacement. So while they can be just arrogant and just as much a PITA to deal with at times, they are careful with what they sell. My wife likes her Subaru Outback Estate on her 3rd when I got the first X5 we sold our Horse Lorry and brought a Horse Trailer which the X5 pulls with ease, so she is a fan of those as well now. Oh, the peaceful life Good luck with the car hunt I hope you find what you want, and don't be a stranger even if it isn't a Beemer Dave

Morning Tony Car Dealers can be so frustrating at times then they plead how hard life is for them, well they are here in the UK AMG are special my first two were E55 Estate (Wagon) the last was CLS 63 Estate loved them. Then we had some bad weather and the CLS was like driving a 500+ HP shopping trolley it went where it wanted too 🤣 every trip was an adventure that's when I brought the first X5 night and day. I looked at the Mercedes ML but by comparison it was ugly so was the Porsche Cayenne so BMW X5 it was. Sometimes these things happen for a reason good luck with convincing the Chancellor of the Exchequer about the need for an AMG 🤣 My trick was always to buy her a new car then a few months later tell her I was thinking of changing mine expensive but very peaceful Dave

Hi The 27e code could well be due to no communication with that solenoid, so if the internal solenoid connections are good check the external plug is seated correctly the loom from the plug is not unknown for causing issues if it is not seated correctly. The EGS fuse is in the Fuse box. But as the car has been driven with only high gear issue It would point more towards the solenoid or its connection. At this point I am assuming your gearbox is the GA6HP26Z so IIRC correctly you should have 3 yellow 3 blue and one black solenoid, depending on the version you have you may also have a Park lock solenoid I will have to dig out the ZF catalogue to check Dave

Morning Diffs normally whine and moan which gets louder with speed, knocking is unusual as if something in a diff is broken it will normally go with a bang. Drive shafts can cause knocking if the CV joints are failing. However, a garage would see that or should The Transfer case and front prop shaft are other abused components. So basic stuff first Tyres, does your car have a staggered set up (wider rear tyres) ? Check the sizes carefully, are they correct for your car ? Are they all the same make correct sizes and are they wearing at the same rate. Any incorrect tyres will cause transmission wind up which could be the cause of your problem If your car has a staggered set up tyre sizes would normally be 235x50x18 Front 255x45x18 Rear or 235x45x19 Front and 255x40x19 Rear Check them carefully and make sure they are all the same brand, or it could cause expensive damage far mor expensive than a set of correct tyres Dave

Morning Dave Welcome to the Forum Your 4e89 I have seen when the Clutch pack seals were letting pressure leak by the code was also a so and so to clear then a friend suggested disconnecting the battery (neg first) then touch the 2 terminals together which discharges any static in the system. After that the code cleared. The fact you have identified what appears to be a faulty solenoid that may well fix your shift issue. Your 27ec code normally is no communication between the EGS and the DME/DDE check carefully the loom internally if it has been pinched or damaged also check the external connector and loom as it would appear the EGS is not getting information from the mechatronic unit to process to the DME/DDE. Have you checked the EGS fuses? Dave