Greydog

Morning Jim A step ? Not sure in which direction but you are gaining knowledge, I just wonder why some Dealers seem to bend over backwards and others are the complete opposite?? It can only come from the top. My nearest BMW Dealer I have found to be in the first group always polite and helpful but then they have 2 excellent BMW Specialists within 10 miles who are roughly half the cost hourly rate wise maybe that keeps them sharper. Good Luck Dave

Hi Martin Two things first make sure that all communication is by Email a Text is not a legal recognised form. Second Google BMW Specialists there will be one not far away from you and normally about half BMW Dealer costs due to their hourly rates being lower. Lastly sensors are simple to test with a multi meter and often over looked is the heating side of an O2 sensor has a fuse that needs checking. Vanos sensors do die, as do the solenoids Good Luck Dave

Hi Julian BMW's have been power hungry beasts since the 90's when Bus systems became the way forward. With the 12v battery replaced you will probably find the other "scary" list has gone or shows as Fault not Present so clearing the memory will do it. Dave

Morning Jim Welcome to the Forum Not Good. Your action so far is spot on I would ask for schedule of the work carried out during the recall that will help understand what was "disturbed" during the work. Hopefully the BMW Tech will decide in your favour but have the independent in the wings just in case Dave

I know the 550i is rear drive but I have repaired a 330i that had similar issues and the culprit was a rear wheel bearing. The owner had replaced both front bearings and still had the symptoms. I have also seen a cracked front hub which gave similar symptoms to a failed bearing When you replaced them were they shot? Dave

Hi Martin Under the Sale of Goods Act if the "Fault" was present at purchase (EML on) and the seller contacted then there is no limit until the problem is solved. I believe the Garage should be given 1 opportunity to repair if they can't then a replacement or refund is the way to go I would explain the situation (if you haven't already) in writing and Email is legal, also include mention of the stress caused Could they not supply you with a loan car while yours is being assessed and repaired if you don't ask you don't get/ Good luck Dave

Morning Dieter Welcome to the Forum Have you checked all four bearings ? I would start there. Drive shafts checked ? Disc seated properly If all the above has been done has there been any damage to the Hub itself on that side Dave

Morning Martin Welcome to the Forum First if I understand the situation, you are in the UK and purchased the car here. If that is the case then the Sale of Goods Act is on your side take advise fast as you may be able to either get a repair, replacement or your money back. Your first code indicates fuel pressure as does the second, the third can indicate a stretched chain but also an exhaust Vanos fault An O2 sensor code can be a symptom not the cause, it could be an Air or Vacuum leak I would get either a BMW specialist or Dealer (more expensive) to run a Diagnostic check and then talk to the Garage Hope this helps not hinders Dave

Morning Julian Welcome to the Forum Well as they say "every day is a school day" never heard of this but here are my thoughts for what they may be worth. The charge is to the Traction Batteries if the 12v battery is down on power or failing it will divert all power to essential functions, communication with the Phone apps will probably be way down the list. Hope it is an easy fix (ie) New Battery and Reset Let us know the outcome Dave

Morning Bill Welcome to the Forum Do you mean the self-levelling system or the shocks ? Not a job I have ever done but if you haven't already, take a look at www.realoem.com put the last 7 digits of your Vin into the search box it will call up your model. If you have a copy of INPA/ISTA look at the TIS and it should give information on the BMW Workshop sequence for servicing the suspension. Good Luck Dave

Morning Kobe Welcome to the Forum First break down the issues you have the O2 sensor will not stop the car starting so the priority is to find out why it won't start. You have had water in the main engine fuse box I would pull the starter relay and check it while there check all the relays. Don't dismiss the battery check it or get it checked you should measure 12.5v to 12.8v at the charging points under the bonnet engine off ignition on. Anything below 12.5 will indicate a discharged or dying battery, first action fully charge the battery. Make sure the Main Fuse box is fully dried out, check each fuse and relay as already said and replace as required (don't just look at them test them). Then if the water ingress didn't cause any other damage, start the car. Your O2 sensor fault indicates the Heater circuit so with the fuse and sensors replaced fingers crossed it should be OK. Disconnect the battery in the boot (Neg First) for at least 15min to reset the fault codes, then run the car and rescan. Good Luck Dave

Morning John As I understand it, it works is as follows or I should say the information I can find shows , it2) Key hole in the vertical position: Unlocking the car with FOB will unlock the glove box. Locking the car with the FOB will lock the glove box. 3) To manually unlock the glove box with key: Insert the key and turn it slightly to the left (counter clockwise) about 15% left of vertical or until it feels like it stops. At this time you should be able to (with key still in it) and pull open the box. You do not need to lift the handle to open it since the inside spring will compress the teeth together that hold the box from falling down on its own. You should hear and feel the mechanism moving when you do this. This is good news (if you hear/feel this) because you will confirm that the actuator mechanism is working fine and its only a matter of playing with it to get it unstuck In other words you do not need to spend money to replace it!. Hope this helps

Not sure what you're trying to do here Alexandu If you want/need to see live data then INPA/ISTA is the only Diagnostic as far as I am concerned. I have read of other systems such as Autologic, i-Carsoft etc are capable but have not seen them in operation. Dave

Morning Richard Welcome to the Forum I would start with your local BMW Dealer; I have always found them very helpful particularly when there is a potential sale to be made. They should be able to explain the different trim levels plus they will have access to a Range of BMW Approved and Warrantied cars. Just too muddy the water there will be a number of cars in the used market that had been brought as say an SE but with additional customer options (Park Assist for example) The target is to get the list of what is available with their trim and option levels and see how close it comes to your wish list then negotiate price against what compromise you're willing to make. Personally, I would stick with AWD for sure footed handling in all conditions, yes you could possibly get a few more mile per gallon with front drive but if stuck on a slippery grass verge or snowy road ?? Good Luck with the Hunt Dave

Morning I would ask the Dealer Service manager where you brought it if he can demonstrate how it works Dave

Morning Darryl Welcome to the Forum DO NOT DRIVE the car with low oil pressure you will cause damage When was the oil level last checked? If you can't do it yourself get it checked urgently. If topping up make sure you use the correct oil Dave

Morning Ash Get it checked mechanically by a qualified mechanic if all good don't be put off I have seen these with almost 250k miles on them Check the cost of major parts then use that as a negotiation lever Good Luck Dave

Morning Conor Welcome to the Forum Often codes are symptoms not necessarily the cause, so a session of sensor testing is on the cards Google should help with test parameters. My guess would be MAP sensor faulty as that appears to be the only current fault. You really need to test all sensors and check the DPF as a clogged DPF (or one nearing End of Life) can throw the codes you're seeing. Or a session with ISTA diagnostics Dave

Sorry Just Seen this Post Welcome to the Forum That looks like the Bluetooth ULF unit Dave

Morning David Welcome to the Forum Nice car as your car is New have you discussed it with the Dealer ? I have seen folks who have asked about turning it off but never down Good Luck Enjoy Dave

Morning Andrew They are the "Type" designations for the Infotainment systems fitted to the 5 series models. Just looked at your post again with your car being a 2008 model (should have seen earlier Dohh) I believe your model has the CCC system so you should be able to enable Music streaming using the cars onscreen settings menu and your rotary controller. As I said there were some "How to" videos on the Internet Google is your friend The early system (as fitted in my E53 4.6is) I can only connect through a wired Aux connection. Bluetooth for phone but no music streaming. Very rarely used in the E53 the engine makes the best sound. My E70 has music streaming enabled when I brought it so I have never looked but also not used as I am a boring old boy who rarley listens to even the radio these days Good Luck it is in there Dave

Morning Birkopf Welcome to the Forum Have you tried the settings in the I-drive Dave

Morning Andrew Depends on whether you have the M system or a CCC there were posts some time ago that you need to enable music streaming in the CCC settings there were a couple of videos on you tube that showed how. If however, you have the early M system I think you're stuck Dave

Morning Scott Welcome to the Forum You can put the last 7 digits of the Vin number into the search box in www.realoem.com it will bring up information on Model, and Manufacture plus a complete parts list if needed. just google while viewing Dave

Morning James Welcome to the Forum When your Battery was replaced was it (a) correct for your car? (b) fitted correctly and registered to the chassis I don't recognise the fault code that your friend found, all the BMW codes that I am aware of start with either a "P" "B" or "C" followed by a "0" or "1" I think as your radio works CD works and the screen boots up it may just be a Controller issue but to be sure you either need to get the car scanned by a Garage or someone who has a BMW capable diagnostic program like ISTA/INPA or maybe Foxwell or Icarsoft Autologic also may work. Or you could remove your controller and get it tested and repaired if it needs it maybe even replaced just make sure the part number is correct for your car if buying online Hope this helps not hinders Dave