Greydog

Hi Chris Have you removed the lever from the car? I did read of a guy in the X5 Forum who just took a file to the worn teeth and it fixed his problem All the hand brake mechanisms are all very similar in operation so try for say a late Z3 or an early 1 series. You may have a bit of adjustment needed for the mounting and the bowden cable attachment but it should be workable. I am sure I read of a guy in the USA who used a 1 series handbrake lever in his Z4 If no joy then your welding skills are about to be tested 🤣 Dave

Good information Chris 😁 Glad it's sorted Dave

Morning Rob Err posted in the wrong place I think First a question, Why? If you check www.realoem.com put the last 7 digits of your Vin into the search box and it will call up your model, then look at the wheel & tyre section it will give all the size information there. Second I don't think 17" would clear your Brake/Calliper combination Dave

Hi John Welcome to the Forum If your lucky it just needs a re-gas if your not lucky and it needs parts due to leak it could cost a bit. If you brought from a Garage/Dealer tell them and see what they say (they ought to fix it) If it was a private sale it's tougher, Kwik Fit often do Air Con Re-gas deals worth giving them a try the machines they use vacuum out the system check it holds a vacuum so will only re-gas if there are no leaks. All Aircon systems loose a little each year particularly if the previous owners turned it off for lengthy periods. Bad practice the seals dry out allowing gas to leak. Hope this is useful Dave

Morning Ian I have 2 Lower Covers listed (1) is for wireless phone charging (2) is without Part Numbers are (1) 9301727 (2) 9301725 both are manufacture 04/2014 onwards, what is the manufacture date for your car in case late 2013 was different though I doubt it. In ISTA WIS it lists as Europe models which suggests both LHD/RHD are the same (just shot myself in the foot there) Those part numbers appear to supersede 9193774 Hope this helps Dave

Like I said Ian, BMW would prefer to keep us all dumber than dumb and totally reliant on them 😅 So they often put the answers in the most unlikely places they are trying to stop folks using realoem they used to allow access to their workshop information www.newtis.com but blocked access a couple of years ago I believe. I have a copy of INPA/ISTA mounted on an old laptop and fortunately it has the WIS (Workshop Information System) as part of the Diagnostic Program Just took a look at ISTA and your part number 9301627 appears to be the same Left or Right hand drive The cover panel for the Centre stack seems to be one digit different 9201671 for RHD (probably viewing angle) Good Luck with the upgrade Dave

Hi Gary Welcome to the Forum First if there was no battery in the key fob the Central Locking wouldn't work? So have you been opening and locking the car on the Key? The alarm triggering, were all windows fully closed no Moths or Flying things in the car? If the windows were shut the culprit could be the bonnet switch they often malfunction just disconnect it in the short term. The clicking when you tried to start is a symptom of a dead/dying battery if you are going to charge it make sure you charge from the charging points under the bonnet or remove the battery to charge it. Do not ever attach a charger or jump leads to the battery terminals with it connected to the car you can damage some sensitive components £££ So check the battery and Charge it or Replace it. Then with the Fob back test it to see if the Central Locking is working, if it isn't don't panic you may just need to sync the Fob with the car. Then start the car. If they have replaced the battery in the Fob with the correct one it should charge by induction when it is in the ignition. If you still get clicking then the starter motor is the last suspect Hope this helps Dave

Hi Rod There is a guy in Manchester area (Bolton if the old grey matter is working) who rebuilds Transfer cases as a Business might be worth a Google search I know he did a lot of business through the Xdrivers forum a few years back. Metal in the oil sounds like the main chain is stretched not as horrendous as it sounds I rebuilt a Transfer box a couple of years ago parts were less than £200 chain gaskets and seals including a new Nylon gear. Getting the box on the bench without a ramp was the awkward bit 😆 needed help from a younger more bendy assistant Fingers Crossed for the rebuild Dave

Hi Ian Welcome to the Forum Try www.realoem.com put the last 7 digits of your Vin into the search box it will bring up your model then search for what you need, this is a BMW online parts list as used by BMW Dealers so it should have what you need. Try the Audio section but also check the trim and body sections BMW don't always put stuff where you think is logical. If you double click the part number it will call up any alternates Hope this helps Dave

Morning Mark Welcome to the Forum Just look for the Tyre Pressure plate it has all the information you need you should find it on the Drivers door pillar. Looks like this Dave

Forgot to say Android up grade is the way to go got an Erisin Android screen in my X5 E70 Dave

Morning Will Welcome to the Forum A very nice looking motor, the brakes though !! That rotor looks like its been parked under water the inner half of the rotor looks thinner (if it isn't an illusion) possibly the calliper is or has been binding. I would check all the suspension bushes front and rear as my experience is their life is 80 to 100k. I am half way through a suspension rebuild on my X5 3.0d at the moment Brakes I changed last year. My brother inlaw has always run 5 touring's as his business car, on his 6th now (2nd 540d) he has all his cars stage 1 mapped from new all his cars have been run to 150k+ without any dramas. So I say work through the niggles and ENJOY Dave

Hi Paul If your checking filters when was the fuel filter last changed remeber an engine needs Fuel Air and Spark so if the spark is there ? Dave

Whoop Whoop Great result Nathan

Morning David Welcome to the Forum BMW Dealers or the normal on line auction sites would be my starting point. As always look at several make sure they have the accessories you want and everything works as it should. Then History History History Good Luck with the search Dave

Morning Antony Welcome to the Forum Th A pillar will have airbag and wiring behind it I would think or even one of its own holding clips not fitting correctly. Check www.realoem.com put the last 7 digits of your Vin into the search box it will bring up your model. Then check the body and trim section so you can see what is in there and how it fits Good luck finding it Dave

Morning John Welcome to the Forum Are you sure it is the Module I changed the sensors on both my X5's with sets from Amazon all worked straight from the get go. The faff was Wheels Off Tyres Off to fit them. If your certain it's the Module check www.realoem.com, put the last 7 digits of your Vin into the search box it will bring up your model then find the item you need. When you have found your item double click the part number and it will show a list of alternate numbers that can be used and models they were used in. Then search the Net using the part number/numbers for what you want. Check the specialist dismantlers also. Good Luck Dave

OK so when you upgraded to Xenon did you use OEM parts or Aftermarket? If the parts are OEM are they correctly coded to the car? If not that is probably where the issue could be, the other culprit is in the wiring I know from helping several people who upgraded 5 series to LCI lights that often the correct connectors are needed and poor modification of the lighting loom was often a nightmare to correct. With your conversion you probably need a wiring modification to the Earth plus an inline resistor to stop flicker. I have also read that the Light switch may need changing, in earlier cars the FCM may need changing and re-programming. If you are OK with DIY on your car and know how to use a Multi Meter you should be able to sort it. You will need either a laptop with INPA/ISTA diagnostic software on it or the help of someone who has if any coding/programming is needed. Dave

If a connector is not fully home or has a poor connection vibration can cause intermittent contact. A lamp (the Bulb) can suffer the same sometimes a lengthy period before total failure Did the technician suggest a cure ? Was the technician a BMW one ? If you turn on the ignition don't start the engine and turn on the lights what happens with out vibration.

The fact the MAF was changed doesn't mean it's working (Been there) so I would double check, 1 is it the correct part for the car and 2 that it works. Throttle body I believe were pretty unchanged from 99 through to 2005/6 they were also used on many other models so check realoem Good Luck Dave

Morning Randy Welcome to the Forum Depending on the model/year the type of transfer case changed and they don't use the same Fluid You can check www.realoem.com (if you aren't aware) just put the last 7 digits of your Vin into the search box it will bring up your model. Early transfer cases the chain can stretch at high mileages or where incorrect tyres are or have been fitted which could be the cause of your vibration. I have rebuilt 2 Transfer cases (both on X5's both victims of incorrect tyres) there are parts available from several sources the job is straight forward but needs the case on the bench. Also worth checking the transmission mounts if they are starting to fail that is another cause. Hope this helps Dave

Morning Nathan From the 1st video it seems the right hand outer lamp is flickers but the left (drivers side) is out 2nd video left lamp is on but after restart not Have the Lamps (bulbs) been changed/checked? It looks as though that is where the issue is I would check all connections make sure all connectors are fully home same with the Lamp (bulb) connectors Dave

Morning Dave Welcome to the Forum The fact that codes are self clearing would indicate they are symptoms not the cause. Check the Mass Airflow Sensor and the Throttle Body I have experienced faulty units with both that didn't throw codes. Your restricted performance would make me think first throttle body or throttle pedal position sender as a starting point. When you scan are all control units seen or are some not responding? (Greyed out) Good Luck Dave

Morning Nathan Welcome to the Forum A little confusing above you say you replaced the right light and the right light is flickering but not the one you replaced?? A quick look at Realoem tells me the part number was for the Left hand lamp. Is it the DRL (eagle Eyes) flickering or the Xenon Headlamps. Flickering could be a failing lamp (Bulb) or an issue with the Control unit First check all the connections pay attention to the Earth points both sides the Xenon control units are high voltage so if you don't know what your doing get either a BMW Specialist or Auto Electrician to help. A Diagnostic scan may help as well. Hope this helps Dave

Morning Welcome to the Forum I take it your US based but the same rules apply where ever you live in the world when buying a used car. A car can have several owners and if just one doesn't care there could be a legacy of wear and tear that isn't obvious at first. So History, History, History and then History. With around a 100k on either car if properly maintained they should both be reliable however Suspension Bushes Shocks Brake Discs and Pads will be suspect unless they have been changed during the servicing. Gearbox normally the most abused part of a car as they are rarely included in service schedules so check that. That would apply to both cars What ever your choice ENJOY Dave