Greydog

My first thought is, Is it seated on the splines properly ? Plus is it the correct wiper for the car Dave

Fingers crossed for you 🤞

The answer Naveen is he probably did nothing but change the main and big end bearings and put it back together. Our sons friend had a similar experience with his 2.0d 1 series the parts for full rebuild cost more than he was charged by the scummer who supposedly rebuilt the engine. Still second time around he could come and help and learn about his car and it's still going strong 3 years on Heart bleeds for you

Morning Julian Looking at your Battery values as shown not being a Bimmerlink user I am not sure how to interpret the 84% reading, was that engine off or just started? the other readings seem to indicate engine running 14.7v would be a healthy charge from the alternator An 84% charge would be 10 or 11v which could be low enough to trigger your faults If the car is running well you may want to put those faults down as WALLET ALERTS 🤣 Dave

Thats what happens when you let clever people loose on design !! Have you tried talking to people like Cartronix, BBA Reman and ECU Testing I have had great results from all of them with different parts Dave

Morning Rod I wouldn't hesitate on a refurbished Turbo as often if there has been a common Fail point the Refurbishes have found an upgrade a fix. As BMW tend to retain any failed part finding someone to do it may be your challenge Good Hunting Dave

Looks like you may have found the bad one check if you can change only one? I seem to recall reading they need registering But then at my age I could be wrong Dave

Morning Jennifer Welcome to the Forum As long as the service history is up to date with evidence of any other work that has been done with receipts you should be fine. Personal preference is to carry out Engine Oil services between 5 and 10k not wait for the extended service light. Also check its MOT history any advisories that re-occur may indicate a previous owner who didn't care much. Most of all ENJOY your new Beemer Dave

You need a diagnostic session with someone who has BMW ISTA/INPA There are pressure sensors on the DPF on the Fuel Rail on the Inlet manifold if one or more has failed it could cause your issue. I would start by getting a diagnostic done and checking the engine sensors Dave

Morning Julian Not a Bimmerlink user as I have my own diagnostic program but some thoughts are How is the car running? Do you have any Dash or I drive warnings? On start up you have a massive quantity of Control units all trying to talk to each other you only need one to timeout and it can give a list like yours. Remember it takes your car around 15/20mins to close down completely after engine stop key out car locked. Small variations in voltage are often mis read and show as faults so (1) Is the battery in Tip Top condition? (2) If the battery is good you should read around12.8 +v at the charge points under the bonnet engine off ignition on, around 14+ v engine running As your car is 2016 is it still on the original Battery? Dave

Morning Paul I cleaned and polished the Lens's and renewed my HID lamps with Osram Night Breakers and Main beams for LED H4 Works well for me Dave

Morning A diagnostic scan needed to be sure, have all the injectors been tested wiring loom checked Dave

Not heard this one before what mileage has the car covered? I would have expected some other symptoms if the DPF was restricted. Can't discount it though as recovery drivers tend to see more issues than us Dave

Morning Not just you all models with them turn off on car shut down and key out Dave

I know what you mean, when I upgraded the Front Callipers on my X5 4.6is to Brembo the service manager looked down his nose and asked me if I realised my front callipers were "non standard" and incorrect so could be unsafe?? I asked him why BMW used Brembo on their competition cars ? He gave a condescending smile and walked away, that was 2004/5 he still doesn't talk to me leaves me to his colleagues. Find a good BMW Specialist there is a Register so you should find one near you Dave

Welcome again Dave

Welcome to the Forum Enjoy

Car designers engineer them to be easy for the Production line to build not for us to work on Try disconnecting the Neg on the battery as said it is a Dealer trick to clear glitches ? Also check locally for a BMW Specialist they may well be less cost (hourly rate) than the Dealer but should have the correct Diagnostic Kit Dave

Morning Rod BMW used to tell owners "Gearbox is Sealed for Life" in fact what they mean is the normal 60k/3years Warranty responsibility ZF who make the boxes recommend service at 60 - 100k/km at 190k/km I would find a ZF specialist and get them to look at it. They can run a full diagnostic on the box and give you a better feel for whats going on. Get the gearbox mounts checked I have seen a failed mount which gave odd behaviour Dave

Get a second opinion on the turbo normally an oil seal gives Blue smoke not white plus it wouldn't clear Dave

Morning John Welcome to the Forum The simplest way would be to talk to your nearest BMW Dealer it wont be the cheapest but they should be able to help Dave

Then you might need someone with BMW ISTA to run a scan and reset If your car is 2020 it is still under Warranty so can't/won't your dealer help? Dave

Morning Gary Welcome to the Forum When the car battery went flat was it (a) replaced? (b) charged ? (c) jump started ? If it was Jump Started where the jump leads attached in the correct place at the under bonnet charge point if not damage can occur If it was charged it should have been at the same charge under the bonnet or Battery removed for charging If the Battery was replaced has it been registered correctly to the chassis It could be the fuse in the back of the radio You could try disconnecting the Neg lead for 15 + mins that is a Dealer trick to clear faults and reset stuff Hope some of this helps Dave

Morning Steve You should have 2 Diffs Front and Rear, the Transfer case is on the back end of the Gearbox and splits drive to the Front and Rear Both Diffs will use a Synthetic Hypoid 75-90 type oil check your handbook The Transfer case will use a Special DTF type Transfer Case fluid again check your handbook or www.realoem.com Dave

Try this 1. Without pressing the brake/clutch, press the start/stop button 2. Wait for the service reminder to disappear 3. Press and hold the odometer reset button. ... 4. At the value you want to reset, press and hold the odometer reset button. ... 5. Press and hold odometer reset button again until value is reset