Greydog

Morning Paul Your problem may not be AC related but climate control related First get the heater water valves checked if they are sticking then that could well be the issue I have changed water valves on an E53 and E71 for this problem. Hose clamps on the hoses unplug the valve disconnect the hoses stick a towel underneath to catch the spill. Fit the new valve re-connect and top up the header tank. If it were me I would also book an AirCon service systems loose a small percentage each year KwikFit have some deals on at the moment and as it is carried out by an automated machine that Vacs out the system holds the Vacuum as a leak check and refills with the correct type and quantities of lubricant and refrigerant. And to answer your original question anything around or below 30psi on the low pressure side after about 15 to 20 mins running will give poor cooling it should around 45 to 50psi Dave

Morning Gavin Welcome to the Forum If I recall somewhere in the I-drive settings for the phone you can enable A2DP I did read there was a good tutorial on Youtube Enjoy your new Beemer Dave

Last week a member here asked where the fuses were for the washer pump. I checked in BMW TIS and found a Workshop symbol against the washer symbol ?? Nuts It seems BMW engineers are not the only ones first found this super Idea on my wife's Subaru, Dave

Hi Euge Welcome to the Forum Which model 530i or 530d ? Most of the threads I have read refer to the F10 M5 at around 1.5 ltrs per 1000km, so what are you using? How old is the car how many miles ? Dave

Morning Paul I am not sure where the Washer reservoir is on your model but from memory it is tucked away behind the bumper or under the wing. Either way you have to take a wheel liner out to reach it. Your problem I believe is a build up of a jelly like sludge in the pump filter. The filter is on the end of the pump and easy to clean by washing it out, the down side is if the washer tank is full you need something to catch it in. BMW recommend their own Washer fluid the only difference is it has a anti-fungicide in it. There are several on the market just read the back of the bottle (I use Prestone from my local Auto Factors. Dave

To check for manifold leaks I use a piece of frayed cotton which I pull around all joints if there is a leak it will get sucked towards the leak. Pay attention to the manifold to head fitting area. as for coils Bosch should be OK though I believe Delphi were OEM fitment If you haven't already check www.realoem.com put the last 7 digits of your Vin into the search box it will bring up your model. BMW moved from the N43 engine to the N46N I am not sure if it makes a difference to the coil packs or not, worth checking Dave

Morning David Sadly today that is all Dealers not just BMW "no code no problem" Years ago had the similar problem with a Volvo T5. I had been in Poland on business, light came on coming back just after crossing into Germany. Volvo dealer could find no fault suggested a faulty O2 sensor, in frustration I changed the fuel filter and ran it with a fuel additive for a couple of tanks. Fault gone and never returned ? I believe it was poor fuel picked up in Poland. You have also had some pretty extreme temperatures in Spain so could be one of the thermostats having a hissy fit ? Interesting to know if it clears with lower temps perhaps? Dave

Morning Joseph The simple fact that you have already had the fault move when swapping replacing parts should tell you something? Assuming that (a) the coil packs are New and at least OEM quality and correct for the car (b) The spark plugs are new and correct for the car (even a new part can fail) When you were changing those parts you must have disturbed the loom I would check each connection for continuity while getting an assistant to twist/move the loom Have you checked the inlet manifold for leaks? Dave

Mine came from Euro Car Parts had to drive to their Redhill depot to collect strangely also a Saturday morning I would have a quick ring around the Motor Factors For any clues if you need them take a look at www.pelicanparts.com they have "how too's" with pictures Good Luck Matey

Morning Stu As it started one side my guess is Airbag very easy change jack it up wheel off. Pull the 30amp Compressor fuse Disconnect the airline the actual air bag is held in by clips 2 at the top 1 at the bottom a half hour job for a man of your capabilities 🤣 Personally I would change both airbags just to be sure Aerosus are the best and come with a warranty. Last time I did it they were about £80 each Dave

Morning Clint Not sure about the later cars don't they store the CD on the hard drive ? Multiplay CD players used to be in the glove box. With the Dash slot I am sure there is a choice in the Idrive menu to ply or Store the CD Hope this helps Dave

Morning Carl If your going to be working on your Z3 then the best Value would be BMW 1.4.0 (About £25) you will need an old laptop with Win 7 or 8 to run it on. Brilliant program which will allow Dealer level access on BMW's using the early Bus systems up to around 2004/5. The difference you will see between an OBD code reader and 1.4.0 is massive INPA is a Full Dealer Program which includes TIS ( Tech Info System) and Wiring diagrams etc, all models up to E87. ISTA is the latest iteration obviously covering all models up to date, including Mini If your Z3 is your only BMW then BMW 1.4.0 would be the best buy (works on Range Rover up to around 2005), if your a car nut like me who works on not just my own BMW's but family and neighbours cars you will need something that will cover more models. My garage laptop has Mercedes Star (used to have AMG), VADIS (Volvo) VAG Com (VW) I also have Foxwell OBD readers one of our sons says "Dads a car nerd with OCD" he could be right but it keeps the old grey stuff stirred up 🤣 and I enjoy the odd challenge. Good Luck Dave

Hi Carl Welcome to the Forum The simplest check is to move the coil pack if the misfire goes with it you have your culprit. If the misfire remains then I would suspect the harness not unknown for them to become chaffed and cause misfires. Also check the Injector harness while your there If you have a diagnostic tool such as INPA you can run live data to check Good luck tracking it down Dave

Morning Joseph You say you checked the connectors and cables ? How? As an Example the Coil pack loom is around 21/2 ft (80cm) long or did you check the wires and connector at each coil pack. Have you checked the loom and connectors for the injectors ? The fault code identifies a Combustion misfire, to achieve combustion you need Fuel, Air and a Spark So if we assume the Inlet Manifold is OK that leaves Injectors or Spark Personally I would remove the plugs and carry out a compression test on 1 &2 if compression is OK and the Plugs are OK (personally I would just change all 4) I would swap say number 1 and number 4 injectors if a misfire moves it points you to the injectors. Last the coil packs same scenario, of course before any of this I would have checked both looms for continuity and any marks or signs of chaffing Dave

Morning Kev Welcome to the Forum Very nice ENJOY Here's to many Smiles of happy motoring Dave

Hi B Answered in your other post Dave P.S. Engineer (retired) and long time home mechanic (58 years) 🤣😂

Hi B Welcome to the Forum You can check compatability by looking at www.realoem.com it is a BMW online parts list. You can look up stuff by either putting the Vin's last 7 digits in the Search box it will call up the model or working through each block to confirm the model then look in the front axel section, double click the part number it will give you a list of other models it was used on. Meyle and Lemforder were OEM in Europe and a complete control arm set (2) is about $100 so bushes should be cheaper. Possibly find a Poly bush kit? Dave

Morning Gary Take a look at www.realoem.com put the last 7 digits of your Vin into the search box it will bring up your model then search the sections The site is a BMW Online Parts list same as the Dealers use. When you find your part double click the part number and it will show you any alternates that can be used, The small exploded drawings will also help with location. Saves rolling on the ground to get part numbers 🤣 Mind now you have had a practice run 😁 He and his son did the job in his driveway over a weekend so apart from the weight of the casing you should be fine Dave

Morning Gary Last night I talked with a friend who is a BMW Specialist and he said "Oh no that is a sod of a Job" It seems the way the tank is fitted during production makes the job a real faf which is why BMW put the Workshop symbol against the pumps. Apparently it is front wheel off, front wheel liner out (10 M8 screws) rear wheel liner out mix of M8 and plastic rivets on here he said there are some plastic blind rivets he says buy new before as they normally break a few. On top remove the trim parts around the filler cap and the filler cap so the filler pipe is free. Under the front wing there is a single M10 fixing at the top front, once it is out the tank sits in 2 brackets one back and one bottom. The tank tips forward out of the rear bracket and the bottom bracket needs a bit of fiddling to lift out as it is L shaped, this he said is the real faf if the tank is full or half full due to its weight. Once the tank is moved forward you have access to the pumps the lower one is Screen wash next up is rear wash and top is Headlamp wash. He normally advises changing all pumps to save having to go back in there in 6 months time. He said 1 to 2 hrs in the workshop for a 10 minute job Let us know how you get on Dave

Hi Gary I just had a quick look at BMW TIS and the fuse box is under the bonnet drivers side and strangely against both Screen Washer and Headlamp Washer symbols it shows a Workshop Symbol (car on a ramp) not seen that one before for something as simple as the washers? Maybe check the fuse box for any blown fuse anyway I will keep digging see if I can find something

Hi Stuart Welcome to the Forum Can't offer much help here as my only experience of this system is my Brother Inlaws 535d Touring and that went without a hitch Have you tried BMW UK for help? Dave

Morning Joseph Simple things first check very carefully the loom to the coil packs it isn't unknown for the loom to chafe and short also check that it is connected correctly. Normally you would get a Vanos Fault code but it is worth checking the Vanos solenoid Dave

Morning Gary At 100k that is very early to have that sort of issue so I would guess it was very likely a tyre issue behind the cause. With mismatched tyres damage can occur in literally days. Bit worrying as it has a Dealer history they weren't very observant !! Not good but not a disaster, I know a guy locally who brought an X3 same issue. He got a replacement transfer box from Ebay, a tip here, use www,realoem,com to make sure you have the correct part number to make sure you have the right box. His first was for a manual so had to be returned, luckily they had the correct box and this time he remembered the propshaft too 🤣. Whoever had owned his car before had liked the look of wider rear tyres, instead of buying the correct wheels they just fitted wider tyres?? So he could see the cause I put a chalk mark on the rear tyre at the ground same on the front, we rolled the car forward 3 revolutions and the front was almost 1/3rd behind the rear no wonder the transfer box gave up. He brought a set of staggered wheels and had the correct rated tyres fitted, 3 years on and he is still driving it. Dave

Morning Brian Welcome to the Forum You could check www.realoem.com it is a BMW online parts list (same as Dealers use) put the last 7 digits of your Vin into the search box and it will bring up your model, the just search the relevant sections to see if there are BMW over mats available when you have the part number get your dealer to order them. Or as I did for my X5 a local Carpet Fitter produced a set of really good fitted over mats all edge taped and sewn with anti slip pads and my initials sewn in in contrasting thread, my BMW Dealer asked where they came from he was so impressed. Dave

Morning Gary Welcome to the Forum If you can hear the pump running but no spray at the nozzle? The most probable cause is that the filter at the base of the pump is clogged. the washer fluid needs to be one with a fungicide in it to prevent the build up of a jelly like sludge in the filter. The filter can easily be removed with the pump and washed clean, what isn't so straight forward is getting to the pumps there are 3 one rear one windscreen and one headlamp wash. The reservoir is tucked away under the front wing behind the mudguard/wing liner. So wheel off good clean to get rid off all the mud dust and stuff then remove the plastic shield, when you remove the pumps the reservoir will empty so be ready with a bucket 😅 Clean the filter and put it all back together. Dave