Greydog

The answer to your first question yes the immobiliser needs signal from the Ignition Barrel and the Gear selector/inhibitor The release codes move each time the key is inserted in the lock somehow yours has become out of sync. Do you have the Sync sequence? if not try this You need to have all the keys with you that have the remote unlock function Get in the car and close the doors and windows. Put one key in the ignition turn it one click forward and then back. Remove the key from the ignition. Hold the unlock button while pressing the round lock button three times, then release the unlock button. The door locks should move to signal successful initialization. For the second key press and hold the unlock button while pressing the round lock button three times, and release the unlock button. Locks should move again. Repeat as needed for any additional keys. You have 30 seconds to do each key. Keep the car doors closed throughout the procedure. Only the first key gets put into the ignition...the other keys just need to go through the unlock-lock-lock-lock button press. Dave

Morning Stu Never seen those DTC codes before Any codes on the EWS? Have you tried re=registering the Key ? Or if you have a spare key I have known where there is no cranking with the key it is because it isn't registered (how/why that happens who knows) happened twice with my 4.4 I even brought a new key, worked perfectly then one Sunday afternoon tried re=registering all the keys and ended up with 3 working keys?? Good Luck Dave

Hi Duncan The Glow Plugs only preheat the combustion chamber for cold starting when the light goes out they are off. A dodgy glow plug or two should have an effect on the DPF Like any filter (thats what the DPF is) the DPF can clog like a catalyser oil is their worst enemy there are DPF cleaners on the market, one of my sons has a Toyota pick up truck he used some the cloud of Black Sooty smoke that blew out when he revved it up was something to behold, looked like a special effect from a Harry Potter film 🤣 It did work though. Even if the DPF is kaput a replacement I would guess at around £500/£700 so with your German car specialist fitting it would be less than £1k Fingers crossed it will be sorted soon and you can enjoy it again Dave

Hi Sunji First ignore the warranty that it came with under the sale of goods act there isnt a time limit so you could go back to the trader list the issues and tell him it's not acceptable believe it or not if push comes to shove you could demand your money back. That would be a very last resort but it may give you room to negotiate a contribution from them. While the glow plugs (some or all six) being at fault can block the clearing of other issues if changing the glow plugs change the glow plug controller while your at it, finicky beasts these modern diesels from what you describe if the turbo vanes are moving freely the issue could be the wastegate actuators Good Luck hope you get it sorted they are awsome motors when on song Dave

Hi Joe Welcome to the Forum Quite a few people have registered high oil level after the car has been standing as oils drains back to the sump I would run the engine for a few minutes let it stand fo 5 mins and check then (can't remember if yours is just electronic or do you still have a dip stick) As for the battery check www.realoem.com put the last 7 digits of your car in the search box it will bring up your model then search the sectiona for the Battery, my brother inlaw runs 5 series he is on his 4th one now, he changed the battery in one of his while on business in Poland the garage (not BMW) that did it told him if you change it like for like you don't have to register it. He had the car for a couple of years after that and never had an issue with it. There are several Diagnostic programs now that are BMW capable so yes a good Indy could code it if it needs it there is also a Register of BMW Specialists who are mostly BMW trained and have all the kit. Euro car parts normally have some good deals on and always have discount deals and codes going my battery is Yuasa from Halfords Regarding the DPF my brother inlaws cars 3 were 530d the current is 535d touring all his cars have covered 20/250k the current one is around 150k and he has never had a DPF issue EGR issues but never DPF. The death knell for the DPF is short journeys where the engine doesnt reach operating temperature for long enough to trigger regeneration. He trashes his around Europe so I guess that has helped. Dave

Morning Duncan Welcome to the Forum First thing to do is find another Dealer the one your using sounds at best incompetent at worst !!!! maybe he thinks as your warranty is paying why not?? A BMW insured Warranty will be honoured by any Dealership and even BMW Independent Specialists. An Insured Warranty will be honoured by any Garage. For your information DPF regeneration is a constant and ongoing process that is managed by the DDE (engine computer) so there isn't a "mileage" trigger where regeneration has to be done. The regeneration cycle starts when the engine operating temperature is above 75 deg in normal driving about 15mins to 30mins. If the car is used for short journeys where it doesn't reach full operating temperature (there are other parameters which I wont bore you with) but engine temp is the main one (note The heater will blow warm are long before full engine temp is reached) Over a period of time soot will build up as it is not being burnt and clog the filter causing reduced performance. A Competent Garage with the right software can force a regeneration cycle with the car sitting still engine running, normally takes about 2hrs (your dealer want's £2-3k for that???? That sounds more like the cost still high of replacement??) Providing the rest of the engine systems are in good order EGR valves Glow Plugs etc the a good run of about 30mins to an hour once or twice a month should trigger a regeneration cycle if it is needed, and keep your motor healthy. As an example my Brother inlaw runs BMW 5 series Touring he has had 4 now the current one is a 535d he has business in the EU and travels a lot over there all his cars are driven to 200-250k before change the current one is over 150k and he has never had a DPF problem. We have cleaned EGR valves and glow plugs but little else. Do X5's last my 2003 E53 4.6is (yes the one with the dodgy V8) it pulls a horse trailer and is used off road in the shooting season and has covered 150+k (your E70 is the next evolution) is still going strong with good maintenance I expect it to see me out. Suspension bushes need changing/upgrading at 80 to 100k (it is a big heavy car) doing the job will improve the ride/drive and protect against odd tyre wear (another cost that can be minimised) So Google the Register of BMW Specialists find one near you and talk to them, normally their Hourly rates are around a 1/3rd of Dealerships plus they will have all the right kit and knowledge to help you with your E70 Long winded sorry Dave

Morning Sunji Welcome to the Forum First was it a Private Sale or did you buy from a Dealer, it could be an expensive fix if it's a Dealer sale you will have some protection under the sale of goods act. If Private your pretty much on your own I am afraid. The car needs a proper diagnostic session to identify the issue or issues, you say you went to a specialist? A BMW one? The list of suspects is quite long, it could be Turbo Waste Gate actuators, Turbo Waste Gate, main engine Air Intake valves, or even a drive train problem. Diagnostics with a BMW capable reader will show all faults logged whether they are present or not, so a competent engineer will find even intermittent issues. Also remember a sensor issue can cause other components to shut down to protect themselves and the engine so a "Fault Code" may be a symptom not the cause. Good Luck Dave

Hi Steve Welcome to the Forum To answer your questions first whenever working on suspension or Brakes it is Good Practice to change both sides at the same time. Calipers or rebuild kits are available though my preference would be replacement callipers plenty available Ebay, Motor Factors etc The job is straight forward, Clamp the flexy disconnect brake pipe from the calliper, unbolt calliper bolt in new one reconnect the brake pipe unclamp the flexy and bleed making sure the system is topped up. Change sides and repeat. Check www.realoem.com for part numbers for your car so you know stuff will fit Dave

Hi Lauren Yes you will need the interface and cable to connect to your car I brought the Disc and Interface with cable as a complete set quite a few years back but they are still available online. Google, Amazon Ebay normally from Taiwan (mine was) prices vary from £10 to £25 (the dearer ones often have postage included) Simple to load from the disc, then plug the interface into the usb port (doesn't need to be connected to the car) and load the drivers all the instructions are there. Then plug it into the OBD port and off you go. I have even tried mine with a bluetooth adapter but the older tech in the car wouldn't play ball When connected the program will first identify your car if all correct press continue and the scan page will show, just hit scan and it will check every control unit in the car (up to 3 pages) and show the number of faults, double click the fault and the explanation of what is causing the issue will show. My last scan showed a PDC fault when interrogated the explanation was Rear Centre Right sensor failed. Dave

Morning Brad First for a Private Hire vehicle 77k in 5 years seems low to me, not much above average. I would check its MOT history the mileage should be registered. Then it is History History History and making sure everything works as it should plus all the tyres are in good order. Remember it has been someone's livelihood so hopefully it has been kept in tip top order. A NI plate shouldn't have a detrimental effect on price but Private Hire may well As with any second user car purchase all we can do is take as much care as possible before parting with our hard earned Good Luck Dave

Morning Terry Welcome to the Forum Wow that made a mess, I have seen similar damage on a 2.0d Peugeot engine (friend of our sons) a piece of glow plug broke off when he changed them, He said he didn't notice? I think the broken bit got wedged in the exhaust vale the result looked similar to yours. If you aren't aware take a look at www.realoem.com It is an online BMW Parts List put the last 7 digits of your Vin into the search box it will bring up your model. Then search the section you need. Once you have the section up double click the part number you want and you will get a list showing alternate part numbers and models it was used in. You look like you know what your about with a spanner just make sure new head bolts are used. I would also check water pump and change the timing chain and guides as your that far in. Good job so far Dave

Morning Stevie Welcome to the Forum Tasty Car congratulations First stop your local BMW Dealer Parts Department they can read your Vin into the system and should be able to order up a new one ( I have two one in the car one in the garage just in case) Dave

Hi Stu Check the starter motor carefully the earlier E53 were fitted with Magneti Marrelli starter when they start to fail they draw huge amps killing batteries in no time. I have seen reports of 600+amp draw, put a clamp ammeter on the starter and check also check the relays (30g I think see if its warm) crank sensors are another known issue Mine was slow turning over so changed to Bosch as a precaution Dave

Morning Lauren Welcome to the Forum The ABS controller would be my educated guess here in the UK there are several specialist repair companies a couple offering 48hr turn around. Google should help you find someone near you. A scan would definitely confirm it, either INPA/ISTA or BMW 1.4.0 will allow dealer level diagnostics for you E46 there are many others iCarsoft Carly for BMW (subscription) My personal choice would be BMW 1.4.0 cheap as chips to buy online loaded mine on an old laptop it will allow fault code reading and gives the code plus a description in plain English next would be INPA this is a real dealer level program with technical drawings and descriptions but can be fiddly to get going. A good code reader/diagnostic program will cost less than 1 session at a Dealer. There is an online BMW parts list that will help if buying spares (new or second hand) www.realoem.com put the last 7 digits of your Vin into the search box it will bring up your model. Then search the sections for what you need. Good Luck and Enjoy your Beemer Dave

Hi Niki Not trying to "teach Granny" but assuming the Battery has been checked and is in good condition and also assuming the alternator fitted was the correct one for the car, you could have a parasitic drain killing the battery overnight. I would fully charge the battery either by a good run or with a charger disconnect the battery from the car leave it 12 hours and check it if it is still fully charged. If it holds a charge off the car then the issue is with one of the systems on the car Dave

Hi Dave Welcome to the Forum If I recall the condensate should drain a the back of the gearbox under the car I did read about issues with a hidden drain under the Ebox that can only be checked from the passenger wheel arch behind the liner Try looking at www.realoem.com it is an Online BMW parts list put the last 7 digits of your Vin into the search box it will bring up your model then search the sections for what you want. There are small exploded drawings that may help. Good Luck Dave

Well G'day George Welcome to the Forum What engine are you considering there were some well documented timing chain issues with the earlier N47 diesel engines around 2014 they were upgraded not sure of the date Petrol engines seemed OK Apart from that the normal checks apply History History History, here in the UK after 3 years there is the annual MOT test which we can also check online showing if any work was required to pass and what was done (or not) also shows "advisories" so you can see what is coming. All accessories should work (test everything) Gearbox should be smooth and quiet again depending on miles should be serviced, as with all 4x4 tyres should match and be correct sizes all round, mismatched or odd tyres can wreak havoc on the transfer case. Hope I haven't put you off Dave

Hi Pamela Dont do Facebook so cant hear it but I have heard a few with X pipes fitted, wakes a few folk up if you make an early start. Dave

Hi Silenthill Welcome to the Forum With good maintenance and servicing very, the BMW straight six is one of the worlds great engines. So all the normal used car checks need to be made plus make sure every gadget works as it should. Drive train checks apply to all 4x4 systems at 80k it will be due a service, if it hasn't had it use it as a negotiating point. Make sure all tyres are the same and correct for the car, also make sure they have plenty of tread (you don't want to be spending out to soon) All all wheel drive systems need matched tyres front and rear to avoid transmission wind up and possible damage. Driving everything should be silky smooth and quiet. ENJOY Dave

Morning Kev Welcome to the Forum What does your Handbook say ? Dave

Hi Guys I stand corrected just checked the oracle active flaps were fitted For vehicles with CO2 package and Active steering and Increased towing capability and Towing hitch, detachable and Chassis & suspens. setup"Adaptive Drive" and Active cruise control+Stop&Go function and Cold-climate version S1CBA=Yes S217A=No S233A=No S235A=No S2VAA=No S5DFA=No S842A=No There was also a Hot Climate version Every day is a school day Dave

Hi T-con Aldis IIRC active radiator flaps were an Extreme Climate fitting (could be wrong so I will claim OLD BLOKE amnesia) when they were fitted they were a PITA they either failed open so often not noticed or closed in which case the fans running sounded like you were about to go for take off. I have also seen vacuum operated rad blinds in Canada They were vacuum operated from a solenoid tucked away under the manifold and linked to the thermostats not sure on the diesel but if memory serves you have 3 on your car Main Thermostat, lower rad thermostat and the EGR thermostat. If the vacuum operated flaps are fitted a failed vacuum actuator, cracked split vacuum pipe, failed sticking solenoid or a failure of any of the thermostats will cause a problem Just didn't realise they were fitted to UK spec cars, lucky you Aldis as said they could be a real PITA

2 mins while it recharges just enough time to jump out and drag the body with the startled expression into the bushes out of the way 😲 Brilliant we need video

What current is the compressor drawing (the X5's suspension compressor has a 30a main fuse and a 7.5a control fuse) at 20 or 30a I would certainly look at putting a relay in line controlled by the switch Don't sound it without a warning to your passengers 😂 you could have a cardiac arrest on your hands 🤣

Hi Florian Welcome to the Forum That is noisy sounds like a diesel ?? The cause could be leaky injector seals, noisy lifters, a leaking manifold a whole raft of stuff. How many miles has it covered? What is the service history ? What oil is it running is the oil level correct? Dave