Greydog

The fact you say the "Tyres are edgy" would indicate to me that they are worn oddly on the edges? Are the tyres still the OEM Bridgstone or Michelin runflat type? You could be experiencing "tramline effect" where the tyre follows imperfections in the road surface runflat tyres are known to be quirky when near to the end of their life. Are all the tyres the same make and type? Does it always happen at the same piece of road? Are the tyres correctly inflated? The drag from an under inflated tyre can be very high. I doubt the mechanic would check anything he would only change the part as tasked, with regard to brakes if a calliper sticks brakes will work fine but that brake will bind pulling steering to that side which is why I said feel the wheel at its centre after driving if one is warm/hot then that could be the issue. As I said in my original post virtually impossible to diagnose without feeling it. Dave

Morning Alex An almost impossible to answer question as the diagnosis relies on "your feel" for the issue, so without actually feeling it we are all guessing. So things that I would check carefully (1) Tyres, are they a decent make, all the same make, wear rate even and correct pressure's front and rear. (2) Suspension, has it been checked for worn or damaged bushes. (3) Tracking, when you have had the tracking done was it Front only or 4 wheel alignment? (4) Power Steering, has the power steering unit been checked? (5) Brakes, are they binding or rubbing, a sticking calliper front or rear or handbrake can cause the issue you describe. After a drive put your hand on the wheel centre if it is hot/warm it could be where your problem is. Let us know how it goes Dave

Hi Graham Have you checked www.realoem.com put the last 7 digits of your Vin number in the search box it will bring up your model. Just had a quick look and Part number 51141866610 is the badge with 635 CSi and was correct for your year. Dave

Hi Ali Welcome to the Forum Don't waste any more your hard earned cash either find someone with a BMW capable Diagnostic program to scan the car for faults, or a BMW Specialist near you who will have the right kit to scan the car. A drivetrain malfunction can be triggered by many things and will cause restricted performance so get it scanned. Dave

Hi Ben Welcome to the Forum In answer to both your posts yes Cats can clog quite easily especially if oil or another contaminant has got into them. Question do you hear a hissing if you turn off the engine? Does the car burn/loose oil with out apparent leaks? Wonder why his mechanic needed to clean the cats? An alternative could be aftermarket cat's a good exhaust specialist should be able fit them. When I tuned my Volvo T5's I used to fit a 3" downpipe and 300 cell cat to let the engine breath out when power was above 350hp. Cost wont be as much as you think Dave

Hi Steven Welcome to the Forum Take a look at www.realoem.com it is a BMW online parts list, put the last 7 digits of your Vin number into the search box it will bring up your model. Then check the steering section you should find a list of part numbers, if you double click the blue part number it will call up a list of compatible part numbers and models they were used in. Hope this helps Dave

Hi Joe Welcome to the Forum I would say it is the Catalysts burning in should clear soon My last Mercedes smelt like rotten eggs my wife banned me from parking it in the garage 😂 Dave

Hi Skye Welcome to the Forum I think there should be a label or pressed mark on the reservoir saying use ATF. Most good Auto Factors should be able to supply a compatible top up Dave

Hi Martin Currently your wider rear set of wheels will have a different Offset to the front bringing the tyre wall near to the wing outside edge. Put a front wheel on the rear and while it will fit the tyre wall will be set back from the wing edge inside the wheel arch. The simple solution is to fit spacers at the rear to achieve the same visual effect. Hope this makes sense Dave

Morning Martin Sounds like you have had a torrid time on our wonderful roads First your staggered wheels are more for looks than a necessity so you can fit the same size wheels/tyres front and rear, if you want to maintain the current looks you may need spacers at the rear to achieve the full arch look the staggered set up does. Also make sure the offset is correct you can find it stamped on the inside of your OEM set Wheel Tyre sizes recommended for your car are as follows 225/35R20 90Y 225/40R19 89Y 225/45R18 91Y 225/50R17 94W The above are Front axel sizes but could be used front and rear to achieve a square set up, also remember that the standard fit is Run Flat you can safely fit Non Run Flat tyres to a Run Flat rim but will need to make some provision for a puncture (my X5 with 20" staggered set up has has a skinny emergency spare but I carry tyre goo and a small compressor) If replacing Wheels remember a non runflat rim can't safely take a runflat tyre. Also make sure the offset is correct you can find it stamped on the inside of your OEM set If you maintain a staggered set up the rears would be as follows 255/30R20 92Y 255/35R19 92Y 255/40R18 95Y 255/45R17 98W Dave

Looking Good Phil Welcome Back Dave

Morning Daniel The FRM is the footwell control module, it has several functions to control but as many other control units also acts as a gateway for communication. The JBE (Junction Box Electronics) is more important there are 3 types 1 for cars with Kline comms and 2 for cars with Dcan comms. You need to first check www.realoem.com and find out the part number for your car. Then check the unit in your car is the correct unit for your chassis the same applies to the FRM. You seem to have ISTA up and running both units will require coding to your Vin Dave

Hi I responded to your other post but here goes with this one First don't discount the ECU check all the pins in the ECU are clean and not corroded same applies to the ECU connector use a good quality electrical contact cleaner not something like WD40 The ECU is in communication with many other control units and if signals are not received it can cause all sorts of issues. So it is very possible for the ECU to still allow the engine to run (badly) even while not getting information from all the inputs it needs. Some of the issues you report point towards a failing LCM (lights staying on etc) To be sure you need a proper diagnostic session if you can't DIY there is a Register of BMW Specialists just Google it there should be one close by. Dave

Hi Shapero Welcome to the Forum Your X5 should have the 218 bhp engine a 6 speed ZF gear box with 3 settings Drive Sport and Manual originally it should get to 60 in around 8.5 seconds not many in it's class could live with that. So your question is "it's like it doesn't have traction" is that a lack of power? Or a drive train issue? to be sure you need the codes read by someone with a BMW specific software to be sure and save yourself spending out on stuff you don't need to. Check all the fuses You don't have traction control as such it is DTC Dynamic Traction Control which takes information from the ABS sensors (measuring wheel speed/slip) the steering angle sensors Yaw sensor and a few others I probably forgot. Holding down the DSC/DTC button for 20 seconds turns it off (but as it is computer controlled it never really is off) If your trying for wheel spin don't waste your energy my 4.6is I upgraded when I rebuilt the engine some years back it was producing 450 hp (380hp at the wheels) on a Dyno. Acceleration was/is quick but No Wheelspin just launches Dave

Hi Welcome to the Forum If you have a laptop loading your own Diagnostic suite isn't expensive or difficult and could save your sanity BMW 1.4.0 will set you back around £15 to £20 very simple and intuitive to use, INPA/ISTA BMW dealer type program again about £50 bit more of a Faff to get running and become competent with. I have both on an old lap top that I keep just for garage work long term they will save you a fortune for less than the cost of a single diagnostic session at a garage. What is the issue/issues your struggling with as the group may be able to help. Dave

Morning Mark Welcome to the Forum Your car is an E46 Compact there should be a Key access to the rear hatch some times it is hidden under the number plate light housing. Remember this lock isn't often used so may well need some help from WD40 or similar before it turns freely. Once you have access to the boot you can charge/replace the battery, if charging I would disconnect the terminals charge the battery then reconnect Good Luck Dave

Hi Welcome to the Forum Might be an idea to try the guys who refurb turbos Google shoul find some in your area. Remember the first rule of business though "buy cheap Sell dear" so don't think you will get much Good luck Dave

Morning Daniel As the first code points to the Fuel Pump control module that is were I would begin, does the car turn over ? I take it the the fuses have been checked and the fuel pump relay checked or replaced? Also check the DDE pins for corrosion and continuity another contributor just had a similar issue with his X5 4.0d which he traced through the DDE to the power relay making intermittently. More of a concern are your last 2 fault codes, can the codes be cleared? What effects are you seeing (no turn signal no DRL etc) The 114 code could be as a result of a faulty DDE power relay or a faulty FRM/FCM The 117 code could also be a power relay issue Sorry can't give you an instant fix Dave

Afternoon Dean When you drove the car the light went out due to the gas reaching sufficient pressure you probably noticed cool air as well. Get a price from Kwik Fit my son got has Toyota truck re-gassed there last year they have the correct computerised machine so difficult for them to get it wrong and only cost £50 if memory serves Dave

Morning Dean When you say you tried re-gassing did you buy one of the DIY cans or did you get it re-gassed by a Garage or specialist ? The DIY bottles are often just top up quantities, if the system was way down then a top up can just possibly wouldn't be enough. A Garage/Specialist will have the correct equipment which vacuum's out the system evacuating all the old oil and gas, the vacuum will be held to measure for any leaks (no point in putting gas in if there is a leak) If it holds a vacuum then they enter the car details in the machine and it will charge the system with the correct volume of gas and compressor oil job done. A dealer will charge between £150 to £200 just for a diagnostic session, look for either a BMW Specialist or a Garage with a BMW capable code reader that way cost will be lower My money is still on the aircon system needing a service,hopefully there are no leaks through cracked seals the drier may need changing but a competent garage with the right kit can do that and recharge it. Dave

Hi Sarahlou Welcome to the Forum Under the Sale of Goods Act 1979 with its amendments in 2015 there is NO 30 day limit. You need to document all the events and inform the supplying garage that you want either a satisfactory repair to make the car "suitable for purpose" or your money back. Make sure you keep the Finance Company up to speed. Good Luck Dave

Hi Dean Welcome to the Forum Flashing AC light = low on gas, your AC system needs re-gassing Best advice I can give you is who ever told you it needed recalibrating take them off your advice list. All AC systems will lose a small percentage of gas each year so after 10 years yours is due a service/.re-gas even Kwik Fit do it at a reasonable price If you have Climate Control leave the AC on all year around let the Climate Control take care of cabin temp, if the AC is turned off for extended periods (months) seal can dry out and crack meaning leaks and added cost to replace the seals. Dave

Morning Mike Great information Glad its fixed enjoy your beemer now Dave

Morning Martin Welcome to the Forum First your engine should be a straight six in Petrol or Diesel flavour. Obviously Petrol in your case as you have LPG fitted (if it is a V6 then it isn't a BMW engine) As a comparison my 2003 V8 4.6is with 157k on the clock shows an average 18.8 mpg mainly local over the last year I also tow a horse trailer, 300+ miles to a tank is average but when we visit our Daughter in Cannock if the Motorways behave with cruise on at 75 we have made the 360 mile round trip on a single "tank. Don't want to "teach Granny" but many things have an effect on MPG Roof Rack. a roof carrier left fitted can knock mpg for six, one of our sons has a bike rack it knocks around 20% off his mpg (he runs a diesel Peugeot) Tyres, are they in good condition correct for the car and properly inflated (no signs of odd wear) Suspension, worn suspension bushes on a heavy car like the X5 will cause odd tyre wear Brakes are they all in good condition and working correctly (no binding) Engine, is it starting straight away hot or cold? Does it tick over smoothly at around 5/600 rpm. No misfires or major leaks? A pressure test would help find your water leak Gearbox and the drive train (Transfer box and Diffs) when were they serviced no noises clunks or rattles. All of the above will contribute to poor MPG put any 2 or 3 together and it will wreck your economy. The 3 litre straight six is a very economical engine in the 5 series and 3 series cars, in the X3 and X5 AWD takes its toll as does the body weight so economy is similar to the V8's as the six has to work harder to achieve the same level of performance. Good Luck Enjoy your X5 Dave

Hi Cameron (or should it be G'day) I would still get the battery checked for age and condition. I thought that you could enable/disable the functions through your idrive settings just a tick box exercise ? If that doesn't work. There is an old dealer trick of disconnect the battery, both leads for 30 mins then reconnect. This is like a hard reset on your computer, it will only be effective if the battery is good though. If that doesn't restore the settings then a diagnostic read is needed. You need someone (or buy your own) with a copy of INPA/ISTA or BMW 1.4.2 or another BMW capable reader. You can buy them now for less than the cost of a Diagnostic session at a Dealer. Dave