Greydog

Morning Andrew Welcome to the Forum I would not be happy with the total BS from your Dealer, the symptoms you describe carry all the hall marks of sticking/binding callipers. Overheating brakes can lead to warped discs or worse damaged wheel bearings due to excess heat. As the car is so new I would be asking the MD of the dealership (not the Service Manager) in writing/Email how he intends to resolve the issue to your satisfaction. As the vehicle in it's current condition is totally unsuitable for purpose, under the Sale of Goods Act you could demand either your money back or a complete replacement. Don't be shy about telling him that also copy BMW UK Customer services in writing/Email. They may well huff and puff but stand your ground FIX IT, REPLACE IT, or MONEY BACK in FULL simple choice. They will try the fix it option first as it is the cheapest when they offer a "Courtesy" car make sure it is of equal quality to yours. Depending on how you feel you would be within your rights to reject repair on the grounds that you have no faith in Dealerships ability to diagnose and to a satisfactory standard. No new car should be supplied with rusty inefficient brakes in particular a BMW performance model Dave

Morning Hotrod1958 I don't have a Diesel but if the line is clear plastic I would think it is a return/overflow rather than on the pressure side, worth taking a look at www.realoem.com put the last 7 digits of your Vin in the search box it will bring up your model then check the Fuel sections. It is a BMW online parts list but has small exploded drawings that will help identify where stuff is and fits. Hard starting can be a number of things, once started how does it run? once warm how does it start? With the cold weather are the glow plugs OK (not unusual) How many miles on the engine ? If high (200k +) Is fuel pressure OK has the compression been checked? There were a number of issues around 2000/2004 starter motors the Magneti starters failed causing slow cranking worth checking Hope this helps Dave

Morning Adam The last manual car I worked on was my wife's 1600E in the mid 1980's, the last I owned and drove was a Lotus Carlton in 1992 !! So not had to think much about manual set ups for a lot of years. May be it's the crank boss that is a different diameter? Though if it is the 6 bolt pattern I wouldn't have thought so. Have you contacted companies like Advan (from down under) they have a strong reputation with BMW and may be able to give you advice or a steer in the right direction. If this is part of other upgrades it depends what you are trying to achieve, a lightened fly wheel won't give more power it will rev a little quicker (but then I may be teaching granny) They can also have down sides with lumpy tick over etc. Or may be you have already upgraded to colder plugs and coils, fitted a better intercooler and air intake and have an ECU upgrade with competition downpipes and Cats to aid exhaust. In which case you should be close to 400+ hp (Alpina Spec) Dave

Hi Adam As they both run the N55 engine I would think the flywheel is the same dual mass unit. Have you checked www.realoem.com put the last 7 digits of your Vin in the search box it will bring up your model. Find the flywheel (engine section) then double click the part number and a list of other models it was used in will be shown, if the 1m is there then you will know for sure. Even if ECS lighten their flywheels I would guess they start with an original/pattern part that they lighten and balance so location pins and bolt pattern will be OEM Hope this helps Dave

Hi Eric I had an alternator issue with one of the Mercedes, symptom were battery dying overnight that was blamed initially on the battery. It was in fact the voltage regulator a diode had died allowing leak back when the engine was off draining the battery with the engine running alternator output was correct. I would get the alternator checked. I have also read that the IBS sensor and lead can cause issues. From your codes it seems the issue is in the charging system, just need to sort which code is the cause as the other 2 could be symptoms. I did read some time ago that the 2F80 code is a Kombi system clock plausibility issue. As I recall if the engine is turned off (current year/time stored in the DDE) then a coding session or reset to factory settings is carried out the system clock is now at model/year beginning so the DDE sees a negative amount of time between turn off and turn on, implausible so code 2F80 is triggered. I think that is it but the old grey stuff may be a bit crusty Dave

Morning Richard Always a problem with low profile tyres (and those are low). A couple of years or so back after a wheel refurb I fitted a set of Yoko's I on the X5 as they had a rim protecting lip formed on the tyre,. I am on my second set so nipped out to take a picture but the current set doesn't have the lip and I hadn't noticed !!! I did read somewhere about a company who make rim protectors but don't know how they fit or would look as I assumed my tyre was doing the job Looks as though your going to have to ultra careful Dave

Morning Antonio From a little reading it seems the Adblue tank on your car hold 17litres 😲 how much are you putting in? My money is on a reset being needed again from reading refill turn on the ignition (do not start the car) 30 secs minimum then off and start, or I seem to remember there being a recall for the Adblue systems ?? Then again it may just be my old brain failing and needing a reset?

Morning Russ You say it shows on Idrive do the front and rear sensors show? Or just the rear do the rear ones work? I ask in case the previous owner has had a crash and replaced the bumper and headlamps himself? A possibility If he has been a complete plank and cut wires has he stuffed them back somewhere in the engine bay. I would look carefully. Use www.realoem.com it is a BMW online parts list, if you put the last 7 digits of your Vin into the search box then it will bring up your model. Then look for what you need check carefully several section Electrical, Vehicle Trim etc, they tend to hide stuff!! There should be information on replacement looms plus small exploded drawings to give clues on fitting Good Luck Dave

Morning Paul Welcome to the Forum BMW will tell you that the only cure is a new module coded by them. Registering modules to the car is not the sole territory of BMW Dealers and is not complicated to do if you have the Diagnostic software. It is important for the footwell module FRM (FCM) and the binnacle IKE as the vehicle stores mileage in 2 places if they differ then a tamper dot will appear next to the distance covered in the binnacle. If the tamper dot doesn't bother you then most of the functions will work with second hand unit if you don't have the software or don't know anyone who has. Refitting a repaired module obviously avoids this issue plus will normally give you a warranty. However second hand units can be used and re-registered to your car, no warranty clearly but with the right software registering to your car is often faster than the time taken fitting it. Registering all modules ensures they all work in unison without conflict. They will all work without just some will have reduced functions and of course in the case of the IKE and FRM control vehicle history. It also allows you to upgrade if you wish Dave

Hi Guy Wow a manual E53 they were like the proverbial Rocking Horse poo !! Have a look at www.realoem.com it tells me that the same manual box was used in the E60/61 and E83 models but I guess you will still need some head scratching making sure it will fit Good luck with the hunt Dave

Morning Which box ? GM or ZF ? Where are you in the country ? I would use Google to find an Auto box specialist near you then check if they have BMW experience

Morning Steve Welcome to the Forum Great choice of car Xdrive will be needed if this is summer !!! Enjoy your Beemer Dave

Hi Will I recall reading some time ago about a guy upgrading speedo etc to blue LED, if I recall it involved quite a bit of careful soldering mentioned. Not aware of any specialists out there I take it you have made a google search? Good Luck Dave

Hi Antonio Your hand book should give some information, though like oil there must be some leeway for top up/refill while "on the road" it can't always be done at a dealer. Unless BMW have a reset some where that tells the system the tank has been refilled ?? As said I have no Adblue experience so thinking out loud here Dave

Morning Mitch Welcome to the Forum First has your car got "power fold mirrors" ?? Use one of the BMW Vin Decoders to check the build sheet. Or ask your Dealer If you have Powerfold Mirrors normally there is a Fold button in the car (mine is on the drivers window master control) Then it may be possible to enable Fold on Lock. You will either need the diagnostic program or pay the dealer/garage to do it. Hope this helps Dave

Morning Michael BMW decided that you didn't need a dip stick so you check the oil through the display screen. You still need to check it weekly that is just good practice. Your Handbook should give the information, don't just top up with out checking levels as to much oil is as bad as not enough. Your car will give warnings but when things are getting critical., Dave

Morning Lee Welcome to the Forum Congratulations on the new car ENjOY The only remap I have experience of is a BMW specialist in Hayes/Uxbridge West London my brother inlaw has used them on 3 of his 5 series cars. BW Chiptune Google them may be worth talking to Dave

Hi Antonio I ont have any experience of Adblue systems so stupid question is the adblue tank empty? Dave

Hi Carl Welcome to the Forum Not come across this before !! More information on the noise, a recording perhaps ? Dave

Welcome Kay Enjoy your new Beemer Dave

Hi Mischa Yowzers lucky so and so If you check www.realoem.com look in the classic section you will find the 2002 model, look up the part you need and order it from BMW you may be surprised that they still cater for the older models and offer discounts to. As for transport if you or a friend have a car with a tow ball what about hiring a trailer, that is of course if you can't get it running and road legal. Good Luck Dave

Morning Eri Welcome to the forum Turbo Charge pressure sensor/sensor I would check carefully all hoses and seals on the pressure side of the inlet system. I would also use Google to get information on checking all sensors before spending hard earned on replacement Dave

Hi Martin As you get the vibration at engine speed and road speed I would rule out (not completely) Tyres Wheels and Brakes my first thought would be the rotating parts in the engine bay. Check very carefully all pulleys belts and tensioners, water pump alternator pay attention the the crank pulley they have a bonded rubber vibration damper built in which have been known to deteriorate. Any imbalance in wheels tyres brakes or the drive train would show itself at set road speed not at increased engine speed Hope this helps Dave

As I have said it sadly is in the hands of the Dealer to interpret the Warranty rules or in perhaps make a Goodwill gesture ? The Toyota Dealer my son uses carried out 2 forced regeneration cycles 1 under Warranty the other a goodwill gesture, my own BMW dealer had my car back for a Recall (Drivers Airbag) I had ordered a new Auxiliary water pump when I collected the car they had fitted the Aux Water Pump as a "Goodwill gesture". I use a BMW Specialist for annual service/MOT everything else I do myself so a pleasant surprise. Dave

Hi James When you say a trip of 4 miles is that round trip ? If it is round trips they do seem short, I walk around 8 to 10 miles a day with my dogs. However it isn't what I think is reasonable, it is about chemistry. The particulate filter is just that a filter. All filters will clog if not either cleaned or changed on a regular basis. The particulate filter needs to reach an optimum temperature before it achieves a chemical reaction and self cleans/regenerates. If your 18400 miles has been made up from many journeys where the engine doesn't reach full operating temperature (not just 4 mile ones) for long enough for the regeneration cycle to start then the filter will clog. That is exactly the issue my son was having with his Toyota even though on some journeys his heater was working the Particulate filter just wasn't getting hot enough. He has got into the habit of going for a half hour drive 2 or 3 times a month and no more issues. All Dealers are different due to the staff and their interpretation of the situation in front of them. I have to say as your car is so new still that they have been harsh, another Dealer may have reacted differently who knows? Dave