Greydog

Morning Mike Welcome to the Forum I am not a diesel driver/owner but both sons our daughter and other family members are, and "dads" garage is free and has a beer fridge 🤣 From memory (better check what I say as I get older) the X5 has a (a) Tank pump this should move fuel either side of the saddle tank so it can be picked up below a 1/3 of a tank, (b) Inline fuel pump just ahead of the fuel filter this pushes fuel to the fuel rail through the high pressure pump. As the car runs well once started the high pressure pump seems ok. So I would be checking the low pressure side first. Logic tell me that the DDE sends a signal to the Fuel Pump Relay which in turn activates the pumps (tank and inline) So I would check the connections at the DDE unplug and use electrical contact cleaner (not WD40) on all pins and the plug, test for continuity between the pin in the DDE and the relay. Same with the relay to fuel pump check continuity (also check earth continuity) BMW use common earth points (comb type) I had weird random faults that traced to a common earth point in the spare wheel well. If all checks out OK then it is a sensor check, fuel pressure sensors and fuel pressure at the fuel rail ignition on engine off. If everything is checking OK I have read (some time ago) that there is a pressure relief valve on the high pressure pump if it sticks the pump will have trouble building pressure. I use BMW 1.4.0 for 90% of all diagnostic on the beemers owned by family and friends plus I have INPA/ISTA for newer models. My old laptop has programs for Volvo, Mercedes, VW/Audi and an old Foxwell for general stuff (my wife thinks it is better I smell of beer and oil the beer and perfume 🤣) What are you using to read codes and live data as it will need a BMW specific reader to get the right information Just the ramblings of an old bloke but I hope it helps Dave

Hi Danny Welcome to the Forum How do you feel if you sniff it ?? 😂 To be serious I would check the Cabin Pollen filters. Check the cars history carefully in case it has been damaged and an airbag triggered. Dave

Hi Samuel Welcome to the Forum As it is overheating under load my first suspect would be the thermostat, even a new one can be duff. I would change it anyway. You say Radiator changed was it new or one the old owner had? could be partially blocked if it was reused? Is the water pump OK Not much else comes to mind Hope this Helps Dave

Hi Oliver Welcome to the Forum Sounds like something is not connected I would back track all work done. Has the main power lead been connected to the starter? Solenoid lead to starter? Engine earth strap? Dave

Hi David Welcome to the Forum What car / model / year ? It will probably need a complete headlamp unit change but take a look at www.realoem.com it is a BMW online parts list you can search by Model/Year or put the last 7 digits of your Vin into the search box it will bring up your model then look in the relevant section. Once you have the part numbers then check all the online sources for best prices. Good Luck Dave

Internet search

Hi Sideways Welcome to the Forum Take a look at www.realoem.com either check by model or put the last 7 digits of your Vin in the search box it will bring up your model. Then look in the trim section (I think) there should be a small exploded drawing showing where stuff fits even lists of fasteners needed. It should help Good Luck Dave

Hi Craig Welcome to the Forum If water is getting in you first need to find where and how any repair will be at risk otherwise. Check all the seals around windows and doors make sure the drains from the sunroof are clear. From your description get your LCM/FWM module checked Dave

Morning Brook Welcome to the Forum He needs to check the BMW brochure unless of course it is an M series car Plenty of information online Dave

Morning Russ Headlamps should have been plug and play as the engine bay looms and terminal connectors should have been there!! Which is why I think the PDC connector should be there somewhere. Great result with DHL/BMW Keep us up to speed Dave

Morning Russell Still fighting with the PDC ? I would check below both headlamp areas as looms run into both areas. If you are lucky the connectors are there just tucked away. If the last owner was a real plank and cut back the loom, can't think why unless he hit something and just tore the bumper off ?? Even if that was the case you should still find the loom end/ends, your new loom will give you wire colours so all that you will need is a new connector. On my sons friends car the ambient sensor is on the drivers side bottom of the bumper Dave

Hi Al Welcome to the Forum Have you looked behind it ? Could it be a cover for the towing eye ? Dave

Morning Simon Welcome to the Forum Sounds like great fun ENJOY your new Beemer Dave

Hi Stephen So your original tyres are probably Runflat's which combined with their stiff construction and low profile have a reputation for giving a stiff/harsh ride. I helped a friend who has a Merc 4matic transfer case was toast quote from Merc £3k. Before pulling the transfer box (it is better to practice on someone else's car) I put a chalk mark on the front tyre and ground and rear tyre and ground then rolled it forward until the front tyre chalk mark was bottom again the rears had travelled about 80mm further, doesn't sound much but travel a few miles and the strain on the transfer case is enormous. To much for his, we rebuilt it successfully and a new set of tyres he was back on the road costly lesson learned. From other forums dealing with AWD depending on the mechanical set up mis-matched tyres can kill transfer cases and/or diffs. So some maths your original tyre/wheel combo 225 x 35 x 20 will have a circumference new of 203.1 cm front and rear. The trick now is whatever tyres you choose they need to be within a tiny percentage front to rear circumference to avoid transmission wind up and damage. So here goes (make sure you check my sums as I am an old bloke) Say Front wheel tyre combo is 225 x 45 x 19 circumference would be 208.9 cm. So target for the rear has to be as close to that as possible. As an example 255 x 40 x 19 would give a circumference of 209.5 cm, so I think that should work as the sizes are so close a better match would be 235 x 45 x 19 front 212 cm circumference with 265 x 40 x 19 rear 212 cm circumference That's the maths, in practice if your tyre supplier is helpful maybe put a front and rear side by side and roll them forward to be sure before fitting. If they from the same maker you should be OK ( lucky mine is and I have done this several times) Bit "War and Peace" but I hope it helps and makes sense Dave

Hi Paul The X5 3.91 diffs are like Rocking horse stuff to find, hence the silly prices. How ever I did read of someone on another forum who brought 3.15 front and rear diffs for less than the cost of a 3.91 and changed front and rear with no issues There are rebuild kits but they do tend to be similar in cost to replacement diffs the benefit is you know the condition of all parts when you have rebuilt it yourself. Dave

Hi Deborah Welcome to the Forum Cant tell anything from the files you uploaded, how long have you owned the car and was it Private or Garage sale? Dave

Hi Rak Welcome to the Forum Looks nice ENJOY your new Beemer Dave

Morning Brian From memory when loading 1.4.0 there was a sequence for getting the drivers to load. If the old grey stuff is working it was something like "load program plug the OBD lead into the computer select drivers in the program menu and load them" try a Google search on loading 1.4.0 Dave

Morning Russell Nightmare over !! Just the bad dreams now From this it looks like it lives behind the bumper near side low down different pictures show it protruding through the lower bumper (antenna part) ?? I did read that the sensor can be reset by pushing and holding the AC and Re-circ buttons at the same time, nothing to lose by trying. Good Luck seems your making progress Dave For BMW Genuine Ambient Air Temperature Sensor Front 65816936953 _ eBay.html

Hi Steve It doesn't matter whether they fit, with just about all AWD/Xdrive cars the rolling radius front to rear must be with a given tolerance to avoid transfer case damage. As an example my X5 summer wheels are staggered Front 91/2J x 20 Rear 101/2J x 20 Tyres Front 275 x 40 R20 Rear 315 x 35 R20 My winter wheels are 9J x 18 Tyres are 255 x 55 R18 all round The staggered summer set need the difference in rolling radius front to rear to maintain the rolling radius. The tyre sizes that you have been offered are as advised by BMW even if the wheel sizes are not. You also need to consider wheel offset so as not to upset geometry in the suspension. Are you wanting Wider tyres or deeper side wall ? What ever you go for if the rolling radius is out front to rear you could end up with an expensive repair bill for the transfer box or a Diff Dave

Hi Dave Strange I had never heard of this before this weekend when my son rocked up to use "dads tools and beer" with a can of Wurth DPF cleaner (every day is a school day) He had a "how to Video on his Phone, with his 2.2d Toyota he had to remove the Front temp sensor on the DPF easy on the Toyota. Then spray the cleaner into the DPF he took his time to make sure he gave it a good soaking (plus it gave his mum time to make him some lunch) Then we put the temp sensor back ran it up to temp and triggered the regen with my laptop. Quite a bit of grey smoke while it went through the cycle has it made a difference I will have ask him in a few days? So if yours is the same I would Google to find out where your top temp sensor is and off you go Good Luck Dave

Hi Gary Welcome to the Forum No one come to help yet ? I don't know where you are in the country so this may not be much use but here goes. My Brother In-law has used BW Auto Repairs in Hayes/Uxbridge West London for ecu tuning on his last 3 BMW 5 series his cars have all been purchased new and serviced by the supplying Dealer (North London) with no comment. He has interim oil and filter changes carried out outside the dealer network (often on my drive) BW have their own rolling road and are BMW specialists so know their stuff one point all his cars are the 3.0 turbo diesel. When I owned the Volvo's they were all ecu tuned it became so common the Volvo Sweden started offering Polestar upgrades themselves. I would give them a call and ask what can be done without putting a dent in your Warranty Dave Dave

Morning Brian I also have INPA/ISTA which is OK with my brother in-laws 535d (2017 MY) but i.4.0 is much faster to load and easier to use than INPA (in my opinion) allows scanning of all modules plus registering to the chassis or re-programming if required and is perfect with my 2003 vintage X5. Just had a quick look at Ebay copies of 1.4.0 are selling at £25 (about $35 ?) including the lead. The old Dell laptop I have in the garage has Programs for Volvo, Mercedes, Subaru and BMW running plus I have a Maxi diagnostic tool for any waifs or strays who may need help. The 1st generation E38 had an OBD2 port on the centre console and a round diagnostic port in the engine bay I do recall reading something about linking pins in the engine bay port to allow full diagnostics from the OBD port (but then my old brain may be fuddled have to check) First (I guess you may have tried) the Dealer trick of clear all codes then disconnect the battery (both leads some touch the leads together to discharge any static) fully charge the battery and reconnect. Then re=scan for returning codes. Good Luck Dave

Hi Brian As you are going to be doing a fair amount of work on the car I would advise getting a copy of BMW 1.4.0 (Ebay or Google) it is cheap to get hold of easy to use and really very comprehensive (Attached are a couple of sample page) There are 3 pages of different control modules dependent on Model and Configuration all of which will log Fault Codes with the program when you interrogate a module the fault is explained in English (as an example my car has an Error code in PDC which when checked reads Centre right rear PDC fault) The codes you're seeing I think relate to Ibus communication and seems to indicate either a water damaged LCM or a failure there. Often a failure at the LCM blocks communication with other modules effectively looking like multiple failures (cars have been scrapped) BMW (and some others will tell you the only fix is a New LCM that then needs BMW Dealers to program. They are wrong you can fit and program a second hand unit even upgrade to newer units yourself using BMW 1.4.0 Added some E38 stuff that may be useful Dave 1163764210_E38_Driver_Information_SystemsIKE.pdf

Welcome to the Forum Brian Look forward to seeing the Project progress Dave