Greydog

Morning Bruce Great news. The power steering (according to family members who drive my 4.6is) is heavy, I am used to it and think they are just limp wristed 🤣 The level sensors are a simple job (just make sure the knee joint is pointing at the wheel) The steering column adjustment are you sure it's the motors? If the seat adjustment panel on the drivers seat has been changed and is incorrect it will stop other items working so worth checking that first. My insurance is with the AA but I live in a low car crime area and I am an OLD bloke so insurance is £349 Good Luck Dave

Morning Chantelle Welcome to the Forum A diagnostic scan is needed to find the cause or everyone is guessing. It could be a flaky fuel pump relay or starter relay, it could be a key malfunction, or ignition switch issue? Dave

Then money well spent I would Google search for the nearest BMW Specialist (if you haven't already) as those guys will have the kit to fit everything for you or if you fit it all yourself they will have INPA/ISTA software to code it in for you. Also worth googling BMW Dismantlers (I have found Quarry Motors good) and contact them for the mud flaps Sounds like you have a real beast ENJOY Dave

Morning Gary Welcome to the Forum Everyday is a school day I guess that you are suffering a lack of performance, but what convinced you that the turbos have failed? Before shelling out your hard earned cash on new/refurbished Turbo's is the rest of the engine in good condition? Compression good on all 6 cylinders, injectors in good conditioThn, fuel pressure correct, Oil pump oil, feeds and returns clear, all vacuum lines in good condition. (Teaching Granny to Suck Eggs time) Assuming it is then the turbo chargers are designed to increase the amount of air/fuel mix by forcing it in (compressing it) beyond normal atmospheric pressure) more fuel/air = bigger bang = more power that;s the theory There are two sides to the turbo Exhaust side has a number of Vanes/Fins hot gas from the exhaust manifold moves over them making them spin. More engine revs more gas the faster they go. The exhaust turbine is on a common shaft that at its other end has another turbine with a set of Vanes/Fins as these are being spun at the same speed as the exhaust turbine they draw air in through the air filter forcing it through the intercooler to reduce it's temperature (cooler air is denser a denser fuel/air mix = better performance. Today we can get turbo's with refined Vane technology/design or increased turbine size or number of blades. The theory being they spin up faster and give better performance. There are also Turbo's with variable vane technology (the vane/blade angle can be changed) to give boost from lower revs spreading performance across the rev range. Schools out If you haven't already get a competent mechanic to check the Turbo's and their operation as turbo actuators and their associated pipework can often be the cause of folks thinking the Turbo is gone. When your Googling check the Register of BMW Specialists these are Garages normally run by BMW trained technicians these guys will have the knowledge, tools and software to fix your car. A few websites to help with School if you are not aware already (1) www.realoem.com this is a BMW online parts list, put the last 7 digits of your Vin into the search box it will bring up your model. Then search the sections for what you need, very useful when buying parts and making sure they fit. (2) An American site so the steering wheel is on the wrong side 🤣 www.pelicanparts.com their articles section has comprehensive "How Too's" with pictures that will help understand what is involved in many tasks they also give indicative times for tasks that even if you are paying a garage for its helpful to know whats going on (well I like to know) Hope this is helpful Dave

Hi Chrissy Now you know what BMW stands for Break My Wallet 🤣 So what did you buy for £900 ?? If that is the direction you want to go Google BMW Specialists you should find at least 1 not to far away most of them will be capable if not a ZF service centre may be able to help. While the sport plus software may give faster gear changes it wont be a quicker car. The 535d has loads of grunt in standard format so I would spend my money on a good remap which should put you at around 320 to 350 bhp and 650 to 700 nm of torque and will be a hell of a lot less cost than the bits you have brought. My Brother Inlaw has had 5 5 series touring 2 x 530d 2x 535d and the current 540d xDrive all of his cars have been ECU tuned by a guy in Uxbridge. The 535d were more than capable of embarrassing super cars in the mid range, I was with him in Belgium when a Porsche flew up behind gave him the headlights and horn (both of them were over the 120k limit) he floored it and left the porker for dead we stopped for coffee near Antwerp as we sat with our coffee's and pastries we watched the Porsche pull in near his car 2 guys got out and walked around his beemer looking in the windows trying to get clues as to what it was 🤣 very amusing. His current 540d is mental if I didn't love my 4.6is that is what I would be in. All his cars are BMW serviced from new the only difference is when they visit we do interim oil and filter changes, he keeps the BMW history as he trade his cars with the Dealer when he upgrades. The Dealership has never noticed the ECU upgrades so no Warranty issues Dave

Morning Chrissy Welcome to the Forum As your car is LCI it will have the ZF _ GA6HP26Z - W1E gearbox, there were 2 shifter types (ignore the Steering Wheel thumb shifters for now) The one on the left is the SAT (Sport automatic Transmission) type the gearbox is the same and yes you can reprogram the EGS. The only things you get over and above moving your standard shifter to the left are quicker shift times (Sport +) when changing manually, increased steering weight, and the word sport will illuminate in your clocks. Also quicker downshifts when braking from speed. You can get some of these simply by installing a standalone sport button with standard shifter or slightly more by flashing the EGS module with SAT software. Hope this helps Dave

Morning Bill Welcome to the Forum Obvious question have you asked your local Dealer? Or BMW UK customer services ? Check www.realoem.com it's a BMW online parts list if they are available you should find a part number which may help track it down. If there isn't a part number it may be you have to buy the complete handle. Good Luck Dave

Morning Ian Welcome to the Forum My brother inlaw used the BMW UK website for help connecting his apparently they have some how to Vids (Never bothered me for 2 reasons (1) car is to old, like me(2) Never owned an iPhone) Great car by the way ENJOY Dave

Hi Rick I have given some information in your Welcome post, here is some information just taken from www.realoem.com Supersedes: 16111176506 (01/01/1982 — 09/04/1986), Exchangeable retrospectively 16111117522 (03/01/1975 — 09/09/1983), Exchangeable retrospectively 16111117200 (07/09/1975 — 01/14/1976) Part 16111178881 was found on the following vehicles: 5' E12   (02/1972 — 07/1981) 5' E28   (06/1980 — 08/1990) 6' E24   (10/1975 — 04/1989 The Suction Device Supersedes: 16141153234 (11/13/1980 — 04/29/1987), Exchangeable retrospectively 16121150480 (09/01/1979 — 02/05/1985) Part 16141179424 was found on the following vehicles: 5' E12   (01/1977 — 07/1981) 5' E28   (09/1980 — 08/1990) 6' E24   (10/1975 — 04/1989) The above information will help when talking to either BMW Classic customer support or try some of the BMW Specialist Dismantlers there are several in the UK Dave

Morning Rickie Welcome to the Forum Seems you have a great project on the go Take a look at www.realoem.com in the Classic section put the last 7 Digits of your Vin into the search box, It will call up your model then search the relevant section once you find the part then double click the part number and you should get a list of alternates and other models it was used in which may help. Also contact BMW customer support they have a great Classic section and may be able to help. Good Luck Dave

Morning Dave If you coped with the trans in a CJ the Z3 will be a cinch 🤣 If you aren't aware a couple of useful sites are as said above www.realoem.com it is a BMW online parts website put the last 7 digits of the Vin into the search box it will bring up your model. Then check the relevant section for what you need, if you double click the part number you will get a list of alternate Part numbers and Models it was used in. www.pelicanparts.com a USA site but apart from the steering wheel on the wrong side (😅) their Articles section has some terrific "How Too's" with pictures Hope it works out and you enjoy your Z3 Dave

Morning Sarah An electrical drain can be frustrating to find in any make or model I had an E55 Mercedes that would without apparent reason drain the battery overnight. The Dealer was stumped I was stumped and losing patience with the car. Then I decided to check the Voltage regulator off the car and discovered a Diode (one of 3) in the regulator was faulty. Changed the regulator mystery drain fixed so don't let it beat you. With the battery fully charged bonnet open all doors closed and key out of the ignition wait until the light by the gearstick goes out, then check the voltage at the charging points under the bonnet. Then if you can get access too a Clamp type ammeter measure the drain, it should be in the Milliamp range around 0.5ma if it is higher start isolating systems (pulling fuses) Favourites are the Nav/Radio/etc, Headlamp switch, FSR, Door mirrors (heater elements) Reverse cam or Dash Cam. You need a clamp type ammeter because if you disconnect the battery to put a multimeter in line all systems are shut down (a bit of a hard reset situation) so may not show until the engine has been started and they have run awhile Dave

Morning Dave Welcome to the Forum I have never been under a Manual Z car so I would check www.realoem.com have a look at the transmission section for the proposed car to see if there is an inspection plate on the bell housing, fingers crossed there will be. maybe try to get a bit off the cost in case? If it isn't slipping or making noises drive it and enjoy it General condition of the car will give clues to the life it has led. Fortunately on todays roads volume of traffic tends to mean most cars live a relatively sedate life traffic light racers are few and far between. A friend of one of our sons is into Drift racing he has a specially prepared drift car in 3 years I have helped him service it he has had only 1 clutch issue That was the clutch hydraulic line not the plate or pressure plate which are standard and get beaten up most weekends. A clutch change on the Z3 should be in theory a little easier as the engine is inline, if I were doing the job I would change the Pilot bearing and RMS (Rear Main Seal) and throw out bearing guide and seals while in there. Dave

Morning Varsha Welcome to the Forum Is this a car leased from a BMW Dealer or leased from another source? Was the car New or a Used low mileage car? Either way I would expect the car to have had a thorough PDI prior to delivery to you which you should have a copy of. I would think there should be something there to indicate imminent replacement? I would ask the supplying garage if they find this reasonable ? I would also ask the Lease Company the same question ? Take advice under the sale of goods act as well Dave

Hi Steve I have always used Mann Filters recommended oil is Helix ECT 5-30 fully Synthetic or a good quality equivalent Castrol, Opie, etc you should need 5.5 litres from memory Dave

Morning Donald Have you checked the loom for damage and the connectors for loose pins. Around the age of your car I read several reports of failed Mechatronc units so a new/rebuilt unit may well be the cure. The trans you are considering may be in similar condition or going that way so ideally a test before buying may help but a used transmission will always be a gamble For me I would get the Mechatronic unit checked and rebuilt by a Trans Specialist (or best by a ZF specialist) What condition was the sump in when you dropped it ? was there much debris were the magnets clean ? If the fluid was changed a few times by the previous owner trying to fix the issue chances are the Torque converter has been flushed fingers crossed they used the correct fluid. BMW at this time stated Transmissions were "Sealed for Life" (BMW speak "life" was the end of their Warranty responsibility) ZF however recommend service every 60k to 80k Good Luck Dave

Hi Henry With the Gearbox I believe that Comfort and Sport effect the suspension and throttle setting while in Eco it just softens the throttle response. So should have no effect on the gearbox or flywheel. (but then I haven't owned a manual for 40+ years) Is there any odd tyre wear (inner edges at the rear) when was the last time the car was 4 wheel aligned? As you have movement in the rear suspension I would suspect the lower rose bush is shot. At 90k it may be the whole rear suspension needs a rebuild Good engineering practice would change both sides. Take a look at www.realoem.com put the last 7 digits of your Vin into the search box it will bring up your model then look at the rear suspension the small exploded drawing should show you where things are and their part numbers then Google the part number to get the best price Hope this helps Dave

Morning Bruce The Torque converter has to be spinning for the internal pump to operate so drain refill 3 or 4 times is the only way I know of without dropping the box. However I did carryout a flush process on a Volvo T5 which may work (similar capacity box) where the output line from the gearbox to the trans cooler was disconnected and diverted to a clear container (mine was marked in liter increments) run the engine 3 litres out stop engine replace fluid to the box, tip the old stuff out of the catch bottle and repeat until the fluid is coming out clean. It may be possible to do that with the ZF box Dave

Morning James Welcome to the Forum Most of the problems were over a 5 year manufacturing period 2007 to 2012 and mainly diesel engines affected. The issue was stretching timing chains sadly BMW did not deal with it well at first denying there was a problem. If an engine fails repair cost I have seen quoted is between £2k and £3k. So if it happens a major cost however these engines were used in many models and BMW argue that failures against total in service is fairly low, difficult to assess as many dealt with by BMW were kept in house. BMW supplied modified Chain Tensioners and guides as part of the repair not cheap. Having said that my Brother Inlaw is now on his 5th 5series touring (2x530d 2x535d and the current 540d) the first 3 all in the risk years all run to high mileages due to his business, all BMW serviced but we carried out interim oil changes monthly. My personal belief is modern extended service schedules by all manufacturers don't actually help longevity. He has suffered no timing chain issues, swirl flaps on the early cars an EGR fail on one of the 535d all has been good. Dave

Morning Dylan Welcome to the Forum First did you buy from a Dealer/Garage if so start there if you brought private you may well be on your own. With luck you got it cheap so repairs won't make it uneconomical. First place to start is are you able to DIY or will you be relying on a garage? If in the hands of a Garage factor in labour rates and time off the road. A BMW Specialist will generally be between 1/3rd to 1/2 of a BMW Dealer labour cost, a good Independent Garage around 1/3rd. Next the battery when was it fitted? is it correct for the car?, was it NEW or was it "another" battery? To begin the battery needs testing it should show 12.8v at the charging points under the bonnet engine off anything below indicates a discharged/dying battery. With the engine running you should see 14.5/14.8v tested at the same place which would indicate the charging system is OK. The faults you mention could be sensor issues caused by low voltages or failing sensors a Diagnostic session with a BMW capable code reader would give a better indication and faster diagnosis. Fault 1. Limp Mode could be Throttle body or throttle position sensor or cam position sensor either Diagnostics or test sequence needed. Replace if required Fault 2. Again a sensor issue at one of the wheels or an ABS pump fault test if capable or Diagnostics sensors can be changed the pump (if it is at fault) can be repaired at a reasonable cost. The click you hear could be the starter relay or the solenoid either sticking or just not functioning due to low voltages? Fully charge the battery (use the under bonnet charge points) When fully charged leave the car shut up after 15min the light by the gear lever should go out if it doesn't something is not letting the car shut down check any aftermarket additions (Radio.Bluetooth, Camera etc) After a few hours measure the voltage under the bonnet if it has dropped and the car is asleep suspect the battery Dave

Morning Paul Welcome to the Forum When the car is started power to the starter is prioritised so often the current draw at start will starve many other systems. So first point of call would be a battery check a fully charged battery should show 12.8v measured at the charging points under the bonnet engine off key out of the ignition, with the engine running 14.8v will indicate the charging system is in good order. A diagnostic scan will be able to point you towards any other issues Dave

That's the one Bruce there should be tandem clips that fix it to the other pipes you should get some clues from the small drawings on realoem. The end is open to atmosphere I believe Dave

Hi Bruce There is a transmission breather down there see if you can trace it back also check www.realoem.com put the last 7 digits of your Vin into the search box it will call up your model. Then look in the relevant section and see where the transmission breather is fitted. Dave

Morning Bruce Either can be the culprit unfortunately age hardens the seals wrong coolant can cause corrosion Dave

Morning Gary You can check quickly at www.realoem .com it is a BMW parts web site so look for the Model E46 and the wheel size/style it will give you the size, offset etc double click the part number and it will show other models it was used on. Then do the same for the E90 Dave