Greydog

Have a look at www.realoem.com it is an online BMW parts list put the last 7 digits of your Vin Number into the search box and it will bring up your model. Then search for the parts you want/need it will have the correct part numbers so when buying your sure (a) it will fit (b) it should work.

Morning Adam Loosing coolant if it hasn't stopped after changing the thermostat? You need to first look for signs of an external leak? Any signs of drips under the car overnight? No damp or wet carpet inside? The water pump I believe is electric any leaks there? If you are sure there are no leaks get a garage to pressure test the system and rad plus do a sniff test in the header tank that will confirm if there are head gasket issues or not. Oil usage/loss you don't say how many miles you have on the engine? A litre a week seems high but if your covering mega miles maybe not? Again check externally for leaks/drips. When was it's last full service? Plugs, Coil packs air fuel and oil filters? While at the garage ask for a compression test to get an idea of engine condition, changing parts won't fix a badly worn engine. Dave

Morning Adam and Welcome to the Forum While you give codes how many miles has your car covered, what service history etc helps as well. Not a diesel specialist but have had to learn a bit as all the kids drive diesels (non BMW) and my brother inlaw drives a 530d First the Glow plugs heat for a few seconds to ensure clean start in cold conditions. My sons Toyota had all four not working for a year never made a bit of difference to the car starting but then we do live in Sussex and haven't seen a really cold winter for ages (stupid statement this year I will probably need a snow plow) So I would suspect at the moment as all 4 glow plugs are inoperative that the glow plugs and or controller need changing. I don't think that these are the culprit. The remaining codes however could well be linked, sorting which are symptoms of, and which are the cause is the trick. The charge air monitoring fault I would check all hoses from the turbo through the intercooler and up to the inlet manifold check all the seals and joints both pressure and vacuum hoses it doesn't take much to throw things off. Air Mass sensor (hot film) If these are clean and dry they are normally reliable, the inlet manifold systems are complex, not sure if your car has swirl flaps or not. I would look at www.realoem.com put the last 7 digits of your Vin number into the search box it will bring up your model then search in the engine section there are exploded drawings that may help. Also look at www.newtis.info this is a BMW technical information site Dealers use this information. Don't ignore the fuel filter and fuel pump our sons last Toyota had power issues that turned out to be a clogged fuel filter. Good Luck Dave

Morning If the big pipe to the top of the air spring is off that will be it also the suspension will be down as it can't hold air. There should be a locking clip at the end which pushes over the air spring which locks it in place some are plastic so check it's not missing or broken. Sounds as though someone has been in there if the car has been driven on the bump stops it will be rock hard lets hope the air springs are OK. Hope your wife is better Dave

There seems to be plenty changing hands on the well known auction site so even with them being "spares or repair" you may recover something worth a go I would have thought Dave

Hi Kevin Welcome to the Forum If 1 sensor has failed it throws the lot out, so from your symptoms one of the front sensors has died. The sensors tend to be flaky at best my rear sensors show a fault when I scan the system when it's cold out (5 or 6 deg) when its warm like now they work fine they also hate the jet wash?? Cleaning the contacts and plugs cant hurt and is free from memory all 4 sensors on the front of your car are same but check www.realoem.com to be sure if you put the last 7 digits of your Vin number in the search box it will bring up your car. Have a look at www.newtis.info as well that is a BMW technical information site same information as Dealers use for how too's Good luck Dave

Morning Steve When I had my 4.4 I replaced the standard set up for 2 reasons first the Nav unit was flaky and the TV was analogue so no signal. After a lot of research I went for Dynavin. There were many cheaper available but most came from China and had dubious or no back up. I also wanted to retain the OEM look The Dynavin unit gave me excellent radio, Digital TV, Bluetooth, Nav etc etc and retained the OEM look. It did need the 5m extension lead running from the main radio quadloc connector in the boot but that is straight forward. Cost back then was about £500 from memory but I sold the OEM stuff on Ebay and recovered most of that. The new models I believe integrate with OEM DSP and retain the OBC functions

Morning Lee A pleasure good to know you have it sorted Camber is only half the story toe has much more effect on accelerated wear. Good to know that you have been able to sort it. Often as the suspension bushes wear (about 80000 to 100000 km) seems to be service life adjustment will suffer. Wheel size will have an effect on ride but not wear as the smaller rim size will have a deeper side wall (which has a spring effect) Most wheels are chosen for the cosmetics than practicality. Dave

Hi Ian Sorry I am a bit in the dark with the way BMW control their Diesel engines as I have never owned one. My diesel experience is limited to the kids they all drive diesel but none are BMW. Have you checked www.realoem.com put the last 7 digits of your Vin number in the search box it will bring up your model then search for what you need you can also search by part number. There are small exploded drawings that may help. Also look at www.newtis.info a BMW technical information site there must be a description somewhere of how it is meant to work. From memory the turbo actuators are also vacuum controlled could there be a link? Dave

Welcome Liam First as you are buying from a dealer you will have some protection under the sale of goods act, when I looked at the pictures it looks as though a very clumsy person has topped up the oil and missed?? Easily cleaned, as far as service is concerned check the service book and even call your local BMW dealer if you are uncertain they will have its history online. At 37k it probably only has 1 or 2 services including its PDI my personal preference is to have service at schedule with interim oil changes Enjoy your new car Dave

Morning Rod This is a new one on me, seat belts these days tend to be boringly reliable and normally fray not stick, particularly as you have a new OEM part fitted. From memory the inertia reel is bolted to the B pillar base the belt runs up the B pillar through a guide about halfway up then to the height adjuster mechanism then down to it's fixing point on the seat. I would take off the B pillar trim and check its route is clear and that it has been put in correctly. Have a look at www.realoem.com put the last 7 digits in the search box it will bring up your model check the small drawing for how it's fitted (or should be). I can only think that something is picking up either at the guide or the adjuster as the inertia reel units are pretty much sealed Hope this helps Dave

Morning Lee Your 5 series has adjustable rear suspension you adjust camber and toe, by turning eccentric bolts I wouldn't recommend playing yourself it is best done by someone with a Hunter 4 wheel alignment system or similar. Before spending your hard earned on an alignment session I would check the lower ball joints from my experience with the X5's (same set up) these bushes are good for about 80k or so.If you have air suspension at the rear it has to be deflated or you won't find any slack. Changing them is a DIY proposition in fact I brought a complete suspension kit from e bay and spent a weekend refurbishing the rear end, then the alignment session to set it up. Have look at www.realoem.com put the last 7 digits of your Vin number in the search box it will bring up your model the look at the rear axle section. Also check www.pelicanparts.com for how too's If you don't fancy the DIY route a good Independent Garage should be capable of doing the work in a morning. Good Luck Dave

Welcome to the Forum Stephen Looks in great condition what killed it Mechanical or Tin worm? So what is next? Dave

I love my daughter but even with sensors and a camera !!! She proved her theory several times 😄 Dave

Morning Umar As my daughter says you don't need them there is a thud sound when your to close ?? All the rear sensors can be accessed behind the bumper the center two from the pop out cover for the tow bar. The fronts pre-face lift all pop out from the front but I believe facelift models it is bumper off / Have a look at www.pelicanparts.com they have some brilliant how too's with pictures, also try www.newtis.info this is a BMW technical information site with how too's Hope this helps Dave

Welcome Micheal Looking good ENJOY (all we need is some summer now) Dave

Looks good to me as is !! but then I am an old bloke who would probably need a set of lowering springs and a chiropractor after riding around in it

Hi Kelly and Welcome to the Forum Some Pictures would be good Dave

Your Welcome My brother inlaw went with those guys because they supplied the upgrade with the code plus he said very helpful with advice

Hi Shane and Welcome to the Forum First remember that even a Nav Disc or Software with a 2019 release date is about a year out of date at least due to checking, validating and production. You may be disappointed that there is no difference (noticeable anyway) between the copy you have and the new one. That said I am assuming that as your car is 2011 you need the update and FSC code? I have no experience of this ( my old beast has a DVD based system) other than my brother inlaw has a 535 of similar vintage to yours. He brought an upgrade from www.satnavupgrades.co.uk he did the upgrade himself and it took him about 30 mins, he was more interested in the update for the European information as he works in Holland. I have no other experience of the company but he is pleased and has had no issues worth talking to them I would think. Good Luck Dave

Morning John From your description we are talking about the the ABS sensor and reluctor ring? When you say you cleaned the ring was it badly corroded? If to much surface came away while cleaning it could give an un-even air gap? Also is the new sensor seated properly and torqued to 8 n/m? I have also read that the ABS unit can throw these faults Sorry no solution but my thoughts Dave Check www.newtis.info there may be something for your model there as it is the same technical information used by BMW Dealers

Castrol Edge will be fine 4k changes should keep everything clean and slick

Evening Zennon Special BMW approval for fully synthetic long-life oil. Viscosities are SAE 0W-30, 0W-40, 5W-30 and 5W-40. Usually required for BMWs equipped with a diesel particulate filter (DPF). ... This specification requires a low SAPS, usually ACEA C5 compliant, 0W20 oil. As long as they meet LL04 as a minimum The real trick I am told is interim oil changes leaving changes until the service indicator triggers is not good for these engines Dave

Hi Ian Experience from one of our sons Toyota a really gummed up EGR often still is gummed up even after Terraclean treatment, we took his off and found a surprising amount of crud still in there which needed literally chiseling out and then soaking in petrol then scraping a few hours work and we had the valve operating when a vacuum was applied. Reassembled everything and warmed it up then of he went for test drive he gave it a blast on the dual carriageway when he came back he had a big grin and said it was going well but the cloud of black smoke it blew out when he floored it looked like a "Harry Potter" special effect. Dave

Sounds as though the air flaps on the drivers side are stuck (just a guess here) have a look at www.newtis.info look for your model and check the relevant section for repair information Hope this helps Good luck Dave