Greydog

Hi Kenny Sounds a bit of a nightmare First stop if you are not already aware should be www.realoem.com it is an online BMW parts list. Put the last 7 digits of your Vin into the search box and it will bring up your model. Check the lighting section and find the part numbers for your car, if you double click the part number it will bring up a list of alternate models/types if they were available. I think it would only be E60/61 or may the LCI model which came in at the end of 2005 It is possible that someone has tried to upgrade to LED which if they don't have a diode in line will throw the lamp failure warnings. Just had a quick look at the listing for E60 which should come with Bi-Xenon lights as standard (you wont get much better) or Bi-Xenon Adaptive Part numbers are Bi-Xenon left 63127160195 right 63127160196 or Adaptive Bi-Xenon left 63127160151 right 63127160152 Looking at Realoem it seems some headlamp assemblies while from E60/61 models are not a direct exchange so the part numbers on your fitted units would help solve the issue if you can take some pics it may help Hope this helps Dave

Morning Ahsan Tyre types are chosen for many reasons, Cost, Looks, Grip, How long they last? For many just because "that was what it came with" Tyre profile has 2 effects (1) lower profile (side wall) tyres are stiffer offering less sideways movement so give better handling. Down side the ride can be harder, crashing over every imperfection on the road due to less compliance. (2) A higher profile sidewall tyre will be more compliant and help with ride comfort. Tyre ratings for economy run from A the highest to G the worst. I did read a report a couple of years ago that the difference between the best and worst was about 7.5% so if you get say 30mpg on an A rated tyre you will get around 28mpg with a G rated tyre. That is the theory but as said before the condition of Brakes, Suspension and the pressure in the tyres all have an effect. The same report also noted that 70% of cars sampled had at least 1 underinflated tyre which will undo any A rated choice. So your choice is fine, will look right and will give a good compromise between ride and handling, Tyre pressures should be checked regularly (I do mine weekly while checking oil and water) if you keep the tyre pressures correct you should give yourself the best chance of achieving good mpg and the best tyre life. To many car drivers today rely solely on the car to "tell them" if the oil is low, coolant is low, or tyres under inflated. Dave

Hi Ahsan If that is what you want that choice it will work fine As for consumption that depends on several things (1) the rolling résistance of the rubber compound the tyre is made from (2) Tyre pressures (3) Mechanical condition of the Suspension and brakes When choosing tyres you will see a consumption/fuel rating so look for the one with the best figure Dave

Hi Ashan Welcome to the Forum First a question, are the rims you have brought BMW or Aftermarket ? You also dont say what size 17" !8" 19" 20" all were available for your car. 8j front fitment should have an offset of 33ET stamped on the inside of the rim, 81/2j should be 33ET 9j would be 44ET Tyres lets assume 19" rims 8j front 81/2j rear with the correct offset Front would be 245/40R19 94Y Rear 274/35 R19 98Y The offset is important to ensure the rim is centred on the hub to maintain the geometry Hope that helps Dave

Morning Kenny There is a Register of BMW Specialists you should find some helpful names there who are more local to you Dave

Hi Mark Welcome to the Forum It may have been left in Delivery mode to protect the engine during the run in period talk to your dealer they should make sure everything is spot on for you. Good Luck lucky boy (Hide your licence) Dave

Hi Phil Welcome to the Forum Engine idle with everything up to temp should be about 600 to 650 rpm You will need a diagnostic program to adjust the idle but first I would check all the vacuum lines are in good condition. Also check for any air leaks in the inlet side, also check the PCV system is good and not clogged (no smoke when its been idling for awhile) Dave

Hi John First you have 2 throttle bodies if one is malfunctioning that could be a cause though a scan should show it up. I have also read of a failed O2 sensor causing a similar effect I take it all vacuum lines and sensors have been checked ? All the above should show on a fault scan. What did the dealer think the issue was that was so serious that a new engine was the solution (apart from loads of profit) Dave

Hi John If the drip is at the transfer case are you sure it's Engine oil ? There is an Electrical Connector to the gearbox that often is the source of leaks (another "O" ring) Unplug the Plug the connector is a twist lock affair with the "O" on it Hope that's it Dave

Now you can enjoy your Beemer 😃 Dave

Don't know where you are Kenny but my brother inlaw has used BWchiptune Hayes/Uxbridge area google will get you contact details. They are BMW specialists and have their own Rolling Road so their figures aren't guess work. He travels from Essex he has now had 4 5 series upgraded by them and not had any issues his cars are serviced by his BMW Dealer Dave

Morning Kenny Welcome to the Forum That looks really tasty the red and yellow grill stripes would go if it was me. My brother inlaw runs a 535d Touring ECU tuned, over 320hp 600nm scares the life out of the odd Porker driver mid range acceleration is amazing. Reminds me of my AMG E55's Just one word really ENJOY Dave

Just to confuse Michelin, Continental and Bridgestone are all on the BMW list. For what its worth I have a friend who has a 2003 E46 M3 Coupe his car runs 19" Rims fronts are 225/40 rears are 255/35 currently he has Yokohama Advan fitted we just got back from Golf so I have had a look. He is happy with them wet and dry (though if it is wet he is out by accident) says he got a good deal early last year with Black Circles

Hi William I don't know where your looking but don't discount the BMW Dealer AUC cars you will get good extended Warranty cover thrown in and if you squeeze hard enough may be for 2 or 3 years 🤣 Metallic Red !! Estoril Blue is the fastest colour everyone knows that 🤣

Hi William Not an issue with using a square set up with the car being 4x4 fatter rear tyres are more for show than go. Range Rover use a square set up and quite a few X5 owners have used Fronts all round and a few fat Rears all round. My summer wheels are 275/40 R 20 W (F); 315/35 R 20 W (R) my Winter wheel/tyres are 255/55 R18 all round. So sourcing either 2 fronts or 2 rears of the same style shouldn't be that difficult and makes tyre purchase simpler. The main point to remember is what ever the tyre/wheel set up front and rear rolling radius needs to be the same to avoid transmission wind up. You near to finding your next motor yet? Dave

Hi Ben Welcome to the Forum There were some well documented timing chain issues with the N47 engines at 2018 the car your looking at should be on the B47 which I believe came in either 221hp single turbo version or 228hp twin turbo. I haven't read any real nasties about the B47 engines so as long as it is well serviced and documented you should be good. My personal feeling is a lot of issues for many manufacturers have begun to occur with extended service intervals (I still change oil and filters at 5k intervals) Both Manual and Auto boxes are tough but both should have fluid and filter changes at regular intervals look for evidence in the history. Check the inside edges of rear tyres if there is wear then it point to rear suspension bushes needing replacement not a horrendous job and well within the scope of a competent home mechanic. But a good negotiation point when talking price. Everything inside should work, make sure it does don't accept any "aircon just needs a re-gas" or "you can get a replacement on Ebay for £10" excuses if it were that simple why hasn't it been done? If you still like the car it's also more ammunition for reducing the price. My brother inlaw runs BMW 5 series Touring he loves them he is on his 4th now, his have all been the 3.0d engine but the general car is the same he travels extensively in Europe and all have been run to around 250k current one is around 150k Good Luck with the Hunt Dave

Hi John The passenger seat occupancy sensor is a quite common trigger for airbag light, plus X5's had a recall for the drivers airbag? Worth a check for recall on yours if you haven't already had one, I didn't get a notification but read about it online checked with BMW who said yes mine was outstanding. As for your Key operating just the drivers door, just tried my X5 same thing drivers door only but locks all doors. I wonder if there is something in the activation settings which can be changed ? IKE settings if I recall, haven't checked mine for some time maybe have a look later Hope the Diversity antenna fixes your issue Dave

Morning John It may save time and money to get a scan done to confirm the source of the issue, it could be the steering lock, the EWS, the antenna or an issue with the FCM not allowing communication. However if it is the antenna my brother inlaw had issues with 2 of his 530d Touring's, the diversity antenna was mounted in the rear spoiler and suffered from water ingress on both. His BMW dealer fitted new antenna's under warranty, twice, on the first car but the problem returned, the BMW specialist I use took the antenna out opened it, cleaned it and the PCB board found a dry joint re-soldered it put it back together sealed the unit and remounted it. Permanently fixed, he had seen so many he even knew which solder points were suspect !! When the same thing happened on his next car we fixed it in my garage on a Sunday morning there are quite a few video's on the Net about the same issue. Dave

Morning Ron I have never fitted a Sirius unit but have changed quite a few other modules on Beemers. You will need someone with a good BMW compatible software package (or buy it yourself usually a package will be about the same as 1 diagnostic session), something like INPA/ISTA, BMW 1.4.0 not sure about i-carsoft or Foxwell as I haven't tried them. I know they can read the fault codes just not sure about their ability to code/re-code modules. As it is a used Unit it will probably be registered to the original chassis so will need that removed and yours inserted. Most BMW Dealers will tell you "Can't be done" you need a new unit and "Only they can code it" which of course is rubbish Good Luck Dave

Hi Aden Welcome to the Forum Check www.realoem.com it is a BMW online parts list as used by Dealers put the last 7 Digits of your Vin into the search box it will bring up your Model then search the sections for what you need. When you find it double click the part number and you will get a list of models it was used on and alternatives Good Luck Dave

Hi William Welcome to the Forum As with any used car History History History when viewing the car make sure the engine is cold before first start, when running listen for any odd noises check under neath for any signs of leaks. While it is warming up make sure everything works every button every knob every accessory, inside check condition of seats, carpets etc. Check tyre condition (get under) and check inner edges, on the test drive make sure there are strange noises from the suspension or drive train. When back check it all again. As for common faults, no major faults but suspension bushes start to go at about 70 to 80k which will cause odd tyre wear. Not a fault as such and common to all 4x4 cars and particularly on heavy SUV's. Also with a staggered wheel set up (wider rear tyres) The front/rear rolling radius has to be within certain tolerances if not then damage can be caused to the transfer box. Make sure that front and rear tyres are the same type and make and in good condition you don't want to be putting your hand in your pocket for 4 new tyres after a month or so. When test driving reverse slowly on full lock any jerking or snatching could indicate a damaged transfer box or a tyre issue front rear out of tolerance, also when stopping open the door or window and as you shut down listen carefully for a clicking noise an indication of a worn gear in the transfer box. Depending on your mechanical skills if signs of Transfer case issues are there either walk away or use it to negotiate a better deal. Engine (I am assuming Diesel) should be smooth and quiet any rattles particularly at start up walk away the BMW engineers decided to move the timing chain to the rear of the engine?? If the V8 again smooth and quiet no rattles. With regular oil changes there should be no issues, same with the ZF gearbox (ZF say service every 80 to 100 km 60k miles) with service the box is tough and long lasting Hope this helps not hinders Dave

Hi Mark Welcome to the Forum As with any used car History History History plus something I learned to look at 10+ years ago is the MOT history you can learn a lot about how it has been maintained by the advisories list and work required. Make sure everything works as it should and I mean everything if all good then ENJOY My brother inlaw runs 530d Touring he is now on his 4th he has a business based in the Netherlands and commutes via the tunnel all his cars have run to around 250k before change all have been ECU Tuned so he can surprise the odd Porker driver on the autobahns. His current car is a 535d well over 300bhp and 600+nm of torque make it's mid range acceleration quite something while still returning mid 40's on a run better if he isn't driving. So there is my experience of the BMW 3.0d. As for short journeys even newer petrol engines now have DPF technology to help emissions which , one of my sons is a tree surgeon so most of his work is local and towing a chipper. His Toyota pickup has the 2.2d engine (he is on his 2nd) this one started to loose performance, off to the Dealer EGR cleaned and back to normal for a few weeks then it started again the service manager at the dealers told "needs an Italian Tune up" what that said my son and where do I have to go? The guy laughed and said take it out a couple of times a month and rag it for 20 mins minimum to make sure the DPF regeneration is started. He has had no more issues in the last 3 years. Bit of a ramble but I hope it helps Dave

Hi Stephen Welcome to the Forum I thought there was an Amp in the back (could be wrong and imagining stuff) If you are not aware there is an online BMW parts list www.realoem.com, put the last 7 digits of your Vin into the search box it will bring up your model. Then search the relevant section there will be small exploded drawings of each component and indications of where they fit. Obvious stuff checked? No plugs loose fuses blown? Good Luck Dave

Hi Dan There are 2 relays to check/change one is the Fuel Pump Relay the second is the Power Relay Lights, you say you have changed to BMW angel eyes, did you change the complete headlamp unit? Just changing the bulbs to LED may give a bulb failure warning unless they are fitted with a resistor (most are) but wouldn't have an effect on the FRM. The FRM is a control unit not a power supply it controls many systems and acts as a confirmation gateway for others. Getting it working will eliminate a few more faults, often fault codes cant be reset while there is a fault in an associated unit. As you have a non starting car I would pull the FRM, contact one of the repairers and send it off for checking and repair. If you can stick with the original you avoid all the re-programming issues. If it cant be repaired then a replacement will be needed, BMW and some Specialists will tell you that "Only BMW can program a unit" Well they would I suppose. They are wrong and you already have the kit to do it (just another School day) Dave

Drinking to much on a stag do !!! Never, Well not that I remember 🤣 The only thing left is the Power Steering pump/control unit you will need a BMW Specialist or Dealer to check that. Dave