Greydog

Hi Gareth BMW started fitting Staggered Wheel sets (wider rear) to the "M" series cars M3, M5, M6 due to them being rear wheel drive and having more than enough power to break traction. With the X5 being 4 wheel drive it is for aesthetics only and in fact in really slippery conditions can be a hindrance rather than a help. My car runs 20" staggered wheels 275x40 front and 315x35 rear, but I have a set of Winter wheels and tyres which are 18" and not staggered that run 255x50 So the bigger wider wheels are for looks really I do prefer the car with my summer set of 20" wheels they fill the arches and just look right. If you keep the wheels you have and have to buy tyres take care as a difference in rolling radius front to rear is a well known cause of damage to the transfer box and or diffs on many 4X4 cars and your X5 is no different. The main thing is ENJOY your X5 Dave

Morning Tim Welcome to the Forum You really need a BMW specific code reader to understand what is going on, the Generic codes you have are identifying symptoms. As you can see you have 4 codes any one could be causing the others as they are not seeing the correct operating parameters. The issue is you change a speed sensor (P255B) and find it hasn't cured the issue you can carry on changing parts till you cure the issue, an expensive.way of working A BMW specific diagnostic will give accurate information as to whether your issue is Sensor related or Turbo related (which is what your codes indicate) I would either get a a copy of INSTA/INPA or BMW 1.4.0 or Carly for BMW easy and cheap to buy on the internet and load it onto a laptop or find a BMW specialist near you who can run a diagnostic for you (cost will be lower than a Main Dealer) Dave

Morning Gareth Welcome to the Forum The car looks good sorry to say the wheels are not standard BMW fitment 20" were the largest offered on the E53 versions of the X5 (take a look here https://www.alloywheelsdirect.net/bmw_alloy_wheels/x5_e53_alloys). Those wheels could be from any number of suppliers or manufacturers? Whoever made them there should be casting/identification marks/numbers on the inside of the rims.Once you have them a Google search may turn up something. Take care as some after market wheels that will fit the stud pattern and off set are not designed to carry the weight of the X5 so may be prone to cracking. My personal taste is not for the 21/22" wheels as the range of tyres tends to be restrictive, the 20" type 87 fitted to my X5 are bad enough when searching for tyres plus the bigger the wheel the lower the profile of tyre so a harsher ride. Your car looks like it's Le Mans Blue, if it is a Le mans optioned car then it should have come with 20" 168M style alloys Dave

Hi Stu I do remember reading that if the car was originally fitted with the business radio that part of the cage behind had to be cut away or head units wouldn't fit properly. As my 4.4 already had the Nav screen up front all I had to do was route the 5m ISO extension from the rear to the front then the Dynavin unit fitted really well Dave

Try the For Sale Section on here

Morning Trevor Welcome to the Forum Sorry no experience of either Dealership Good Luck with the service Dave

Morning Jeff Welcome to the Forum I did see some thing on another Forum some time back that if a reset doesn't work this is often the Headunit failed, sorry to be the bearer of bad news. I have used a company called Cartronix in Waterlooville some time ago to repair/upgrade my BM54 radio module in my X5 google them and give them a call. Dave

Top Man Dave

A pleasure Bill Glad it is working now, fingers crossed it behaves it's self from now on. The other Web sites I use are www.newtis.info This one is a BMW technical information site the Dealer network use this information. I also use www.pelicanparts.com an American site so steering wheels on the wrong side but great "how to's" with pictures. Heres your ABS unit They call it the HydroUnit DSC Control Unit Part 1. 34516855553 Control Part 2. 34522284921 It also appears you have a DSC compressor that also has a speed sensor Enjoy your 7 series Dave

Hi Gary Welcome to the Forum If your X5 has the Business radio set up then it is pretty much plug and play if you have the Navigation screen up front you will need a 5m extension lead to connect to the Quadlock radio connector. My first X5 was a 4.4 and the screen failed twice along with a few other glitches I replaced it with a Dynavin unit today there are several Android units that are also available. I preferred the Dynavin as it had all the functions Nav,Radio,CD/DVD, Bluetooth etc etc and looked OEM I sold the BMW kit and recovered most of the cost of the Dynavin. Dave

Hi Olly The torque the 325d 330d and 335d produce is mega and wont help as when your pulling away your in the meat of the torque band straight away. The E90 M3 has 420bhp and 400nm torque which doesn't peak until 5k + While your 325d in standard trim has around 200bhp and matches the M3's 400nm torque but yours is available from 1300rpm !! with a tuned ECU you will see around 450nm. The 330d has 520nm and 335d 580nm standard so with a bit of help are monsters. Real tyre munchers all 3 of them particularly with an open diff 😈 If your near the wear indicators that wouldn't help either, Continental Run Flats were among the OEM suppliers I believe as were Bridgestone and Michelin Enjoy, just wear your ballet shoes if it rains 🤣 Dave

Morning Bill I would only work with BMW part numbers personally I have fallen foul of manufacturer part numbers with my X5 one of my AMG's and several Volvo's where the ABS units failed often due to dry joint issues. Not trying to teach Granny to suck eggs but have you checked www.realoem.com for the BMW part numbers ? You will be able to check right and left hand drive models plus if you click on the part number you will see what if any other models used the part, plus what alternatives if any are available. Then google the BMW part number. Also remember certain models have to have the part registered to the chassis or they are not recognized??? Remember years back when BMW boasted the 7 series had more computing power than the Space Shuttle (or something like that) Well soon you will be a fully fledged Space shuttle mechanic 🤣🤣 Dave

Morning Olly Welcome to the Forum Normally if there was an issue it would throw a light, a diagnostic check will tell you if there is an issue or not as fault codes are stored even if not present.That will help avoid throwing money at something not there. There are garages out there happy to take your money for all sorts of "problems" From your description you are clearly enjoy the cars grunt !! Just remember your 325d produces about the same amount of torque as an E46 M3 if it has been ECU tuned possibly quite a bit more. So I would check the rear tyres are they a reasonable make and do they have plenty of tread are the pressures right, it doesn't take much to tear them up (8 to 10k with my AMG's). You could reduce right boot pressure in the wet as due to the long dry spell the country has had junctions and roundabouts are always particularly slippery when it eventually rains. Or use the manual function and pull off in 2nd, On slippery muddy surfaces when towing the horse trailer I select 3rd in manual and let the torque do the work. Dave

What a saga Never heard of Actronics I have however used ECU Testing and BBA REMAN with excellent results on Volvo, Mercedes and BMW Have you checked (or had someone check) the loom for continuity? Hate to have you go through the pain and discover its a break causing intermittent issues Dave

Morning Richard Some progress at least, is there nothing on www.newtis.info that helps with testing and resetting? A Diagnostic session with a garage or maybe someone on the forum that is close to you should let you know what the issue is. I live in West Sussex Dave

Welcome Bill Looks beautiful ENJOY Dave

Morning Will Welcome to the Forum Sounds like you know what you want from the car. coming from the RX8 with certain models you will miss the the go factor. When searching the more frugal diesels will be in demand so priced higher, don't dismiss the big petrol engines the 3.0i should achieve low 20's around town and 30+ on the motorway plus 0 to 60 in around 6 secs. The 3.0d with a tuned ecu should give similar acceleration times but high 20's early 30's around town and into the 40's on a long run. Plus Plus insurance rates are reasonable. 2 years ago my brother inlaw and myself drove his 3.0d 5 series touring from the UK to Lodz Poland almost 1000 miles with high average speed and one fuel stop in each direction In Germany a guy in a Boxter with UK plates chased us for around an hour (high 3 figure speeds) but had to pull off at a services. The Beemers mid range acceleration killed him where we had to slow to 100 110km/hr around towns but once unlimited the 5 series was more than a match. Average mpg for the trip 37 mpg, it made me a diesel convert, though I would find it hard to part with my 4.6is Don't dismiss a well looked after BMW 6 cylinder with higher miles the straight six is one of the worlds great engines, Spec will be mainly due to original order spec from the first buyer due to BMW obsession with customers choosing options. If when looking at cars you note the Vin number you can always check BMWVIN decoder .com and see what the build sheet included. Good Luck with the Hunt remember the old advice Head not Heart Dave

Hi Josh Sorry my diesel experience is limited my X5 is a much simpler V8 petrol On newtis they often give a part number for the special tools if you click on the part number a picture or description comes up which may give more clues. Dave

Hi Richard Welcome to the Forum I am not a Convertible owner but looking at the picture I guess the lower section should be in the fork? Have a look at www.realoem.com put the last 7 digits of your Vin into the search box it will call up your model/year then look in the roof section. There should be exploded drawings that may give a clue. This site is a parts site so if new/replacement parts are needed you will have the part number. Also look at www.newtis.info same search criteria this one is a BMW Technical information site that the Dealers use for service and repair information there should be stuff there as well. Finally look at www.pelicanparts.com an American site so the steering is on the wrong side but they have many great "how to's" with pictures you may get some help there. Good luck Dave

There were some issues with early X5 petrol models, the temperature sender leaked allowing coolant to leach into the loom, capillary action got it to the Engine ECU (DME) causing a corrosive failure at the main connector pins. My 4.4 suffered the problem took me some head scratching to sort. Having said that what you describe is something I have not heard of and certainly ECU failure is very rare these days. Changing the ECU's will require them to be coded to the chassis (a BMW Independent or someone with ISTA/INPA diagnostics) not a horrendous job just the right programs needed an Independent specialist would cut the cost significantly if you can't DIY. You could remove the ECU and send to a repair specialist such as BBA REMAN or ECU Testing this way no re-coding should be necessary as it is already registered to the car. Both Companies are well known and have good reputations I would talk to them. As an example BBA did an ECU repair for a friend with a Discovery in December last year £245 and turned around in 72hrs you can guess what the LandRover Dealer suggested?? Take a look at www.newtis.info this is a BMW technical information site your Dealer uses this information. It will give you instructions for removing the ECU's Hope this Helps Dave

Hi Jay On the X5 the door carrier breaks while there are copies on Ebay the OEM part apparently isn't horrendous cost. Most of the reports are buy cheap buy twice Dave

Afternoon Jay Welcome to the Forum You say the door failed to open is that Failed to unlock or Failed to open at the handle? If it is unlocking but the handle doesn't open the door the it could be the Bowen Cable (23) on the drawing or the Carrier (15) on the drawing. If it is not unlocking it is probably the actuator (1) on the drawing Have a look at www.realoem.com put the last 7 digits of your Vin in the search box and it will bring up your model then look in Bodywork. You can also try www.newtis.info a BMW Technical site used by the Dealer network Take a look at the attached hope it helps Dave

Hi Ben The 2 warning lights are a tyre pressure warning ( I have coded mine out as they were always plying up) The other if it won't clear needs more investigation as it points to a wheels sensor or the ABS pump. Fingers crossed a simple reset does the trick Dave

Morning Gail If you look at my last post the PelicanParts web site address is there. They have a great "How To" section with pictures plus I have been told by friends in the US very helpful on the phone. There are also the other Web address's I put up for part numbers and technical information. Yes the LCM is located in the footwell so could be called the Footwel module. As your battery is dead (cancel your Gym membership) get it checked before deciding whether to change it or charge it. BMW's react badly to low Battery voltages, so I would remove any "Jumper wires" or any other "clever Mods" replace with new the Relay which should put every thing back to as it should be. Then (no Gym membership required) replace the battery with a fully charged or new one, get all the fault codes cleared and try to start the car. Any faults returning will point you towards the issue/issues. If the Lights issue is one it will point at the LCM being fried. As your obviously an independent girl take a look online for BMW 1.4.0 or ISTA/INPA they are diagnostic programs you can load on a laptop they are not expensive and will save you a fortune. Dave

Afternoon John First what tyres are fitted?? This is important your car is Xdrive if the tyres do not match across axles or front to rear it will cause transmission wind up this in turn will damage the Centre transfer box and eventually first the rear and/or front differential. This not a BMW issue ALL 4x4 vehicles have it. If you turn off the engine after driving and here a clicking sound from under the car that is the transfer box protesting as it tries to reset, if you reverse slowly on full lock and you feel snatching/jerking that is a very unhappy xdrive system. A new diff (Front or Rear) will be around £900 + Fitting a Transfer box can be repaired there are several specialists but still not cheap. A complete set of tyres will be cheaper. I stress all 4 tyres should be at about the same tread depth from the same manufacturer with the same tread pattern, preferably " * " marked on the side wall. If they aren't then you have an issue that will just get worse if it hasn't caused to much damage already. Inside the transfer case is a nylon gear that adjusts torque front to rear, if tyre rolling radius doesn't match front/rear and across axles that gear can be stripped producing a clicking sound Sorry to say the previous owner may have known Dave