bluefish7

Have you ever replaced a high pressure fuel pump? Service tech manual says to put this blocking in the transmission but there is also a special tool that goes in the crankcase so I'm wondering if both are necessary.

The battery was actually just replaced, unfortunately it was not reprogrammed until a few days afterwards, the foot control module reared its head and was replaced and the new battery was programmed I think all in July. From what I'm hearing about the car, it has been a long time with these hard starts though before the battery was replaced, it was my parents car until last week. I guess one way to check your theory would be to start the car and let the battery fully recharge before driving out (maybe 25 min?) and then see if the engine rears back like it has been doing. For the BMW 1.4.0, where do I get that? Also would need to pick out an OBD cable for this laptop, assuming it would be OBD2 to USB? Also, do you have a preferred Fluke Ammeter for this type of job? Thanks

Thanks for the tips, I have been to Newtis but only have a OBDLink MX+ for reading codes, I guess I should look into a better program for my X5, 2000 328i, and 2017 Wrangler if I'm going to keep weekend warrioring. Condition is a real lazy start, like 3 or 4 seconds of cranking and a few times it has just failed to start. Repeatedly in the last few days, I've been able to start it but when I get about 2 blocks away from my house, the car acts like it is being thrown from 3rd gear to 1st gear, or starved for fuel. It recovers quickly and then I have a chassis/stability control malfunction light after that for the duration of the drive, this resets itself every day so it is brought on by that event. I have seen a lot of folks post about the fuel relay issue but that is for gas engines and so I have been ignoring it. No other CEL or codes that I can tell, dealerships did not see fuel rail codes, at least were not present at the time. Thanks

Looking for advice on next steps for 2010 X5 35 diesel, intermittent hard start. Diagnostics have been run by two dealerships in Atlanta, checked out low pressure fuel pump and rail pressure control valve and they are ok. Next they suggested checking volume control valve but intake manifold would have to come off. One of the dealerships just wanted to throw a new high pressure fuel pump at it, but figured that since I have it at home, could possibly check out volume control valve if I have reasonable success as a DIYer? Thanks