Greydog

Morning Will Welcome to the Forum Sounds like you know what you want from the car. coming from the RX8 with certain models you will miss the the go factor. When searching the more frugal diesels will be in demand so priced higher, don't dismiss the big petrol engines the 3.0i should achieve low 20's around town and 30+ on the motorway plus 0 to 60 in around 6 secs. The 3.0d with a tuned ecu should give similar acceleration times but high 20's early 30's around town and into the 40's on a long run. Plus Plus insurance rates are reasonable. 2 years ago my brother inlaw and myself drove his 3.0d 5 series touring from the UK to Lodz Poland almost 1000 miles with high average speed and one fuel stop in each direction In Germany a guy in a Boxter with UK plates chased us for around an hour (high 3 figure speeds) but had to pull off at a services. The Beemers mid range acceleration killed him where we had to slow to 100 110km/hr around towns but once unlimited the 5 series was more than a match. Average mpg for the trip 37 mpg, it made me a diesel convert, though I would find it hard to part with my 4.6is Don't dismiss a well looked after BMW 6 cylinder with higher miles the straight six is one of the worlds great engines, Spec will be mainly due to original order spec from the first buyer due to BMW obsession with customers choosing options. If when looking at cars you note the Vin number you can always check BMWVIN decoder .com and see what the build sheet included. Good Luck with the Hunt remember the old advice Head not Heart Dave

Hi Josh Sorry my diesel experience is limited my X5 is a much simpler V8 petrol On newtis they often give a part number for the special tools if you click on the part number a picture or description comes up which may give more clues. Dave

Hi Richard Welcome to the Forum I am not a Convertible owner but looking at the picture I guess the lower section should be in the fork? Have a look at www.realoem.com put the last 7 digits of your Vin into the search box it will call up your model/year then look in the roof section. There should be exploded drawings that may give a clue. This site is a parts site so if new/replacement parts are needed you will have the part number. Also look at www.newtis.info same search criteria this one is a BMW Technical information site that the Dealers use for service and repair information there should be stuff there as well. Finally look at www.pelicanparts.com an American site so the steering is on the wrong side but they have many great "how to's" with pictures you may get some help there. Good luck Dave

There were some issues with early X5 petrol models, the temperature sender leaked allowing coolant to leach into the loom, capillary action got it to the Engine ECU (DME) causing a corrosive failure at the main connector pins. My 4.4 suffered the problem took me some head scratching to sort. Having said that what you describe is something I have not heard of and certainly ECU failure is very rare these days. Changing the ECU's will require them to be coded to the chassis (a BMW Independent or someone with ISTA/INPA diagnostics) not a horrendous job just the right programs needed an Independent specialist would cut the cost significantly if you can't DIY. You could remove the ECU and send to a repair specialist such as BBA REMAN or ECU Testing this way no re-coding should be necessary as it is already registered to the car. Both Companies are well known and have good reputations I would talk to them. As an example BBA did an ECU repair for a friend with a Discovery in December last year £245 and turned around in 72hrs you can guess what the LandRover Dealer suggested?? Take a look at www.newtis.info this is a BMW technical information site your Dealer uses this information. It will give you instructions for removing the ECU's Hope this Helps Dave

Hi Jay On the X5 the door carrier breaks while there are copies on Ebay the OEM part apparently isn't horrendous cost. Most of the reports are buy cheap buy twice Dave

Afternoon Jay Welcome to the Forum You say the door failed to open is that Failed to unlock or Failed to open at the handle? If it is unlocking but the handle doesn't open the door the it could be the Bowen Cable (23) on the drawing or the Carrier (15) on the drawing. If it is not unlocking it is probably the actuator (1) on the drawing Have a look at www.realoem.com put the last 7 digits of your Vin in the search box and it will bring up your model then look in Bodywork. You can also try www.newtis.info a BMW Technical site used by the Dealer network Take a look at the attached hope it helps Dave

Hi Ben The 2 warning lights are a tyre pressure warning ( I have coded mine out as they were always plying up) The other if it won't clear needs more investigation as it points to a wheels sensor or the ABS pump. Fingers crossed a simple reset does the trick Dave

Morning Gail If you look at my last post the PelicanParts web site address is there. They have a great "How To" section with pictures plus I have been told by friends in the US very helpful on the phone. There are also the other Web address's I put up for part numbers and technical information. Yes the LCM is located in the footwell so could be called the Footwel module. As your battery is dead (cancel your Gym membership) get it checked before deciding whether to change it or charge it. BMW's react badly to low Battery voltages, so I would remove any "Jumper wires" or any other "clever Mods" replace with new the Relay which should put every thing back to as it should be. Then (no Gym membership required) replace the battery with a fully charged or new one, get all the fault codes cleared and try to start the car. Any faults returning will point you towards the issue/issues. If the Lights issue is one it will point at the LCM being fried. As your obviously an independent girl take a look online for BMW 1.4.0 or ISTA/INPA they are diagnostic programs you can load on a laptop they are not expensive and will save you a fortune. Dave

Afternoon John First what tyres are fitted?? This is important your car is Xdrive if the tyres do not match across axles or front to rear it will cause transmission wind up this in turn will damage the Centre transfer box and eventually first the rear and/or front differential. This not a BMW issue ALL 4x4 vehicles have it. If you turn off the engine after driving and here a clicking sound from under the car that is the transfer box protesting as it tries to reset, if you reverse slowly on full lock and you feel snatching/jerking that is a very unhappy xdrive system. A new diff (Front or Rear) will be around £900 + Fitting a Transfer box can be repaired there are several specialists but still not cheap. A complete set of tyres will be cheaper. I stress all 4 tyres should be at about the same tread depth from the same manufacturer with the same tread pattern, preferably " * " marked on the side wall. If they aren't then you have an issue that will just get worse if it hasn't caused to much damage already. Inside the transfer case is a nylon gear that adjusts torque front to rear, if tyre rolling radius doesn't match front/rear and across axles that gear can be stripped producing a clicking sound Sorry to say the previous owner may have known Dave

Morning John If you haven't had it very long and it's a worry back to the dealer and ask? Dave

Morning Gail Your BMW has a large number of control modules (around 20 from memory) many look after simple local functions others (the important ones) the operation of the car. The critical ones share information, if one isn't talking then nothing works as it should. The LCM (Light Control Module) is one of them it controls/communicates with the engine control (DME) gearbox control (DTC) cluster control (IKE) plus a few more (I am trying to keep it simple) while doing its own job You need a competent mechanic (not someone who thinks he can hot wire it) with a BMW specific diagnostic computer if you can't do it your self. The starter is under the car so reached from below not above. I am guessing your in the USA so try looking at www.pelicanparts.com they have great "how to" sections and I am sure be very helpful on the phone. Dave

Hi Grizelda Welcome to the Forum Overheating assuming you don't have a leak and fluid levels are correct, is normally either thermostat, or auxiliary fan related if your aircon is working so should the auxiliary fan. The auxiliary fan provides additional cooling when either the aircon is on or extreme conditions such as heavy traffic Get your engine driven fan checked and the auxiliary fan plus the thermostat. Dave

Hi Ben Were the lights there before? Did you disconnect the battery or leave the ignition on for a length of time while changing sensors. Have you actually driven the car? Try driving forward and backwards going lock to lock. Or disconnect the battery again leave for 30 mins then reconnect. Dave

Morning Gail Welcome to the Forum Simple question WHY those relays are available at any Factor or Halfords why not just swap it??? Now you have a host of issues not least that possibly the LCM module may be fried and new that isn't cheap. If buying second hand make sure the part number is correct. You need someone (Garage or friend) with a BMW diagnostic program to read the codes. If the starter is suspect a decent electrician can check it with a multi meter easily, But a no crank no start situation needs diagnostics to save throwing money at it (but you may have to now) Use www.realoem.com to find part numbers just put the last 7 digits of your Vin into the search box it will bring up your model Also use www.newtis.info to get wiring diagrams and how to's that may help with any repairs Good Luck Dave

Hi Ian Just did a quick google www.onlineautomotive.co.uk might have what you want Dave

Morning John Welcome to the Forum Could be part of the re-circulation systems for cooling turbo etc? I have to say I have not heard this before so that is a guess Dave

Morning Ian Welcome to the Forum My sons friend just brought the same part, then they used my garage and tools (tea, coffee, beer) to fit it He brought it from Bosal (BMW OEM Supplier) using the BMW part number think it was around £150 from memory Try www.realoem.com put the last 7 digits of the Vin number in the search box to bring up the model, then search for the part number you need. Then cross reference against after market suppliers. I am sure you can find what you need at a sensible cost Good Luck Dave

Hi Matt No need for clutch just position 2 if the relay or fuel pump are on the way out or intermittent it will give it time to build pressure 30 secs should be enough and see if it will then start. If you are not aware here are a couple of site s that may help. www.realoem.com a BMW parts site put the last 7 digits of your vin into the search box it will bring up your model. Makes sure you have the correct part numbers if buying stuff. www.newtis.info a BMW Technical Information site BMW Dealers use the same information. Dave

Morning Matt If you buy a Diagnostic Tool make sure it is BMW Specific as a Generic tester will give some codes but wont see all the modules and sensors. Something like ISTA/INPA or BMW 1.4.0, they can save you a lot. With out diagnostics I am guessing but the problem you have (but here goes) First check the Fuel Pump and Fuel Pump relay try turning the ignition to position 2 but don't start. Listen for the fuel pump after about 30 secs try a start if it fires but stutters my guess is fuel pump or relay or both. It could be injector related or injector loom related, it could be a sensor on its way. As you can see without diagnostics you could end up throwing money at the problem. My best guess money stays with fuel pump or relay Good Luck Dave

They don't need any other proof of how aged I am just date of birth 1943 was a Vintage year 🤣

Morning Siddhartha Welcome to the Forum Your X3 is fitted with a front and rear diffs connected through a transfer box at the back of the gearbox. The diffs front and rear have no pump attached so the fact that you say you can hear something running I would suspect the following as suspects. (1) air re-circulation fans and auxiliary water pump which can run for 5 mins after shut down to protect the turbo. (2) If you have rear air suspension the pump can run to maintain pressure it will normally only run up to the point the car goes to sleep. If it is running for 5 mins I would suspect a leak, the suspension pump is in the boot. Dave

Morning Bruce Welcome Back Getting older !! We may get older and wiser but there are no rules on growing up !! Enjoy your new Beemer Dave

Hi Tim Welcome to the Forum A short time ago the BMW 3 series with the straight 6 engines came out as the most reliable by far. The F30/F31/F34 2011 to 2019 right up to 330i are 4 cylinder with turbo the 335i is 6 cylinder and is the one voted most reliable. My personal choice would be the six cylinder in either flavour (Diesel or Petrol) both are silky smooth the diesel obviously returning better MPG. Good Luck with the search Dave

Hi John Sorry to hear you have suffered at the hands of one of the Clumsy brigade, we can only hope that they suffer a similar event. A decent body shop will be able to do a scratch repair without it costing the earth Dave

Morning Ben There are 2 parts inner and outer that hold the sensor in place see the attached exploded drawing items 5 and 6 they just clip together then the sensor slides in from the rear. The inner rear sensor holders I have had to change due to them cracking at the bottom (narrow point) fortunately they are easy to get to being close to the tow bar cover. Good Luck Dave