Greydog

Then check www.realoem.com E36 323 you will be able to find engine numbers and DME numbers then double click the part number and you will see what other models they were used in Then at least you have a starting point at the moment you are going in circles guessing

Check www.realoem.com it is a BMW parts list put the last 7 digits of your chassis number in the search box it will bring up your model Then get the part numbers and compare them to what you have. You will be able to see if (a) they are compatible with what you have

From memory there were 2 types of DME, a programmed DME and a basic DME. Worse I am not sure if they are the same manufacturer have you checked www.realoem.com Dave

My own BMW is a petrol version so my diesel experience is limited to my family members My brother inlaw currently runs a 530d he commutes in to Europe for work and this car is approaching 300k his previous car a 525d went way beyond that, before the BMW's were a succession of Merc's. His service regime is meticulous with oil changes every 5k and the full BMW schedule followed as indicated plus gearbox services in line with ZF's recommendations. Yes he has had niggles particularly things which BMW seem to ignore/deny/can't find or see mainly electrical, these we have fixed ourselves but mechanically the cars are mega. So History History history plus general condition always a goo indication that someone has cared. ZF recommend gearbox service every 60/80k BMW say sealed for life, for life read end of BMW warranty responsibility. Engine bay should be clean showing no signs of leaks. There was a problem with the tubular exhaust manifolds cracking (smell of exhaust fumes in the car) BMW solution was weld it up which proved temporary we found a cast manifold on the well known auction site which strangely was cheaper than the tubular manifold fitted, problem fixed for good. Both his cars have been remapped with no issues and the current one no DPF issues either. Suspension bushes last about 80k but are not difficult to change/up grade just make sure you have a full suspension alignment at each tyre change or suspension work to protect tyre life. Make sure all switches and gadgets work as they should.

Result Rob Well done good information for other 3 series owners, I know very well about horse/cow/sheep muck sometimes when it's dry it feels like you need a chisel to get it off Dave

Morning Alex Welcome to the Forum Reading your title you say your car is 2019, how ever E92 I thought stopped manufacture in 2013? When you say you took it back to a Garage is this a garage you just purchased from? If the car is 2019 reg then it is under Warranty and should go to a BMW Dealer, Even if it is recently purchased 2013 reg the selling garage should repair FOC as the seat belts and operating system are safety items. If someone has pulled the arm out it may be the system needs resetting if the garage are just car sales they may not have the knowledge/skill or tools to do the job. Dave

I can only think to look at Ebay and similar sites to see what is available as a guide? you may even be able to find an engine that may make an economical repair possible, depends how much you liked the car?

The only things left are Fuel pressure, (pump filter and regulator) MAF and Throttle body if they are working correctly then I am running out of ideas?

If playing BMW gets stressful or boring I put a Dynavin unit in my 4.4 X5 some years ago the unit was brilliant and I covered the cost by selling the redundant BMW units. Check them out

Aren't modern cars amazing in their ability to frustrate us. As you say quite probably something simple have a look at BMW Vindecoder it should bring up the build sheet for your car that will tell you for sure. Dave Let us know what it is as I am in my 70's and BMW and Mercedes haven't been able to defeat me yet (they have both tried hard and even come close) with the help from the Forums we will win.

Compression is good by those numbers so 1 off the list. O2 sensor signal or lack of will certainly not help as the DME can't set the fuel air ratio accurately. There should be 2 sensors 1 up stream of the Cat the other down stream they also need to be correct as their rating voltage/signal is different. I don't know about the E36 but often the cable length will be different to make sure they are in the correct place, unless of course someone has changed one for one of the "universal" ones ?? From memory the O2 sensor also retards ignition at tick over to maintain exhaust temp so a failed system could well be the cause. Dave

Morning Larry I take it the faults you are seeing are displayed on the I-drive screen, you really need the codes read by someone with the right software they will also be able to reset the triggered codes. You need a garage with Autologic or BMW software to be able to check and reset everything plus identify the issue, you could try disconnecting the battery for 1/2 an hour to reset everything also make sure it is fully charged (your cars equivalent of the computer turn it off fix) I would avoid driving the car as each trip could cause damage due to having no suspension at all. Dave

OK Dan not the end of the world if you have a charging cradle the phone still needs to connect somehow, when I look at the picture of your phone charging cradle the button at the bottom of the picture looks just like the pairing button in my X5. So try this "press and hold the button for a couple seconds before turning on the ignition, continue to hold the button for around 5 seconds" or try the "voice" how_to_BMWTele1series.pdfhow_to_BMWTele1series.pdf button on the steering wheel if it works like the X5 then "Bluetooth Pairing" will come up on the radio display then follow the instructions on your phone screen. Somewhere in your book pack you may have a card or note with a pairing code You can also change the charging cradle for not a lot of money I have had,Motorola, HTC, Samsung, I phone 3 and Nokia in the X5. I would search on Ebay if you want the cradle if not there should be instructions for pairing somewhere. Is there a button with a phone symbol on it on the radio right hand side? Just tried uploading instructions I found the upload failed so try this https://www.babybmw.net/forum/howtos/how_to_BMWTele1.pdf

Top Man👍

Hi Steve Welcome to the Forum I would guess it is one of the horn units that have either failed or are disconnected. Here are a couple of websites to help you find your way around. www.realoem.com a BMW online parts list to make sure you have the correct parts if replacing stuff, just put the last 7 digits of your Vin number in the search box. www.newtis.info BMW Technical Information site same information that BMW Dealers work with. www.pelicanparts.com this one's an American site but great how too's with step by step pictures just the steering wheel on the wrong side. Enjoy your squeaky Beemer Dave

Morning Matt Welcome to the Forum Take a look at www.newtis.info it is a BMW Technical Information site, the same information as BMW Dealers use you should be able to find an answer there. You could also try www.pelicanparts.com it is an American site so steering wheel on the wrong side but good information and how too's with step by step pictures. For parts information www.realoem.com just put the last 7 digits of your Vin in the search box and it will bring up your model. Hope these help Dave

That's what doesn't make sense as I said even in standard form and a stripped out shell it should go quite well. May be he ran out time/money with sorting the motor?? First step compression test then fuel pressure if they are OK. DME, MAF, and Throttle Body. Dave

Sorry James but whoever you brought it from sold it for a reason? Which is probably the power issue you are suffering? Did he compete successfully?. The original 4 pot with a simple remap is capable of 130 to 150bhp the 323 should give 160 to 180bhp in a stripped out shell either should feel pretty punchy. So something is strangling the engine and not allowing it to give it's best, as I said in my previous post I think fuel pressure needs checking as does all the other stuff. Check www.realoem.com it's BMW online parts list I would look at the original 1.6 or 1.8 1 series engine parts if you have the Vin number put the last 7 digits in the search box it will bring up the original model. Get the part numbers for the DME and fuel pump and check against what you have in the car The BMW DME will also take input from the Gearbox controller, ABS unit plus others. When I look at my X5 with my BMW 1.4.0 software I get 3 pages of control units that are scanned with 10 control units to a page each control unit can be interrogated.

Morning Dan From the pictures you have the Professional CD setup and I don't see a Bluetooth symbol in the display? Can you select Aux then scroll through to see if there are options under the Aux connection (guessing now). Also try searching with your phone as my phone could find the ULF in my X5 but could only connect when the ULF was in pairing mode. Some of the systems used the aux/usb connection in the center console to connect phones/external devices. Check realoem it should tell you what is fitted to your car. The BMW system will record all faults as they occur and retain them in the memory, as an example with BMW 1.4.0 if I scan and get an Error message I will see a red marker Error present with a description of the error, or a yellow marker error not present (so intermittent) with a description so I know where to check. After scanning and repair if I clear the recorded codes it should clear all I have read that Carly for BMW an App for you mobile is OK however it is a subscription App so annual fees, me being a tight old git I paid for BMW 1.4.0 and have it on an old laptop I use in the garage. What ever you settle on you will find it invaluable and it can save a fortune in the long run. Dave

Morning Scott 3 or 4 years ago travelling at around 40mph suddenly no drive, no noises bangs or bumps parked and called the AA who using snapon came up with the same fault. Their diagnosis gearbox? Got recovered and like you selector showed all gears Drive Reverse Manual and Sport modes turned out to be rear diff failure. Sadly not that rare with the 3.91 diffs, if the diff is sound I would contact a ZF specialist who can read the internal box codes from the mechtronic unit. Dave

Morning Dan Welcome to the Forum very tasty choice of motor ENJOY You need to get the codes read to find out what is going on with the rough running, you need a garage with Autologic or BMW specific software or even get your own it will pay dividends. I use BMW 1.4.0 on a laptop only cost about £15 Can;t help with a garage in Essex but have a look at the BMW Specialist Register it will give you all there are in your area. I believe your car has Idrive so you should be able to get connected through the Idrive, Check your handbook with my bluetooth in the X5 it only holds 4 or 5 phones in its memory when I first got mine I couldnt connect (I have a "pairing" button in the cubby under the arm rest) because the blutooth memory was full. I cleared it and all good I have read though that some smart phones/Iphones are difficult. Some sites that may help www.realoem.com an on line BMW parts list put the last 7 digits of your Vin number in the search box and it will bring up your model it will make sure if you buy parts they are correct for your car. www.newtis.info is a BMW Technical information site, the same information used by BMW Dealers Dave

What tool was used to read the codes? It needs to be a BMW capable system generic readers just wont do it, particularly as it seems to me your car has been cobbled together. The 323 engine should give around 150 to 160 bhp from memory. So assuming your engine is in tip top mechanical order (no serious wear) and the DME is actually correct for the engine? If those things are correct then it should feel lively in a stripped out shell. However if the engine is worn and the fuel pump is delivering fuel for a 1.8 and the DME thinks the engine is something else it may run but you will never see any power. If I was building the car (and I built short oval hotrods and rallycross cars in the 70's) I would 1st compression test the engine if it is down on compression nothing but a rebuild or engine swap will bring power. 2nd if the engine is strong then make sure the oil delivery system is as well as you will be going sideways a lot make sure its sump is baffled to ensure no oil starvation takes place. 3rd make sure the DME is correct for the engine or it may run but will never perform. 4th fuel pressure at the fuel rail is it correct, are the airflow meter and throttle body correct and working properly? Sorry if it sounds as though I am teaching granny to suck eggs but with out a solid foundation you are burning money.

Morning Larry Welcome to the Force Padiwan!! First is your X5 full front and rear air or just rear? I have read that the F15 models have either 2 or 4 level sensors depending on whether you have adaptive suspension (2) or adaptive suspension with Zennon or adaptive LED lights (4) or full air (4) First driving on deflated air bags will damage them. The air bags are pretty robust I just changed my rear airbags at 16 years. When the car is opened does the compressor run? If not check the fuses (1 x 7.5a 1 x 30a on my X5) If the fuses are OK then check the compressor relay, not normally an issue but stuff does fail. The self leveling sensors are pretty robust but again if one had failed the issue would be on that corner. If you need help finding stuff take a look at www.realoem.com put the last 7 digits of your vin into the search box and it will bring up your model, this is a BMW online parts list so when buying replacement parts you know you have the right part. Also www.newtis.info this one is a BMW Technical Information site this is the same information that BMW Dealer workshops use plenty of pictures and drawings with descriptions. Let us know how it goes Dave

DME is the engine management, if your engine is quiet at start and tick over I am guessing the Vanos is OK but the solenoid is either sticking or broken. If you unplug and it makes no difference then I would say first take the solenoid off and clean it if that makes no difference change it.

Morning Seungwook We have to assume the oil and coolant levels are OK? , when was the car last serviced? Are there any other noises knocks or rattles? You need the codes read by a garage or someone with Autologic or BMW software to give a better diagnosis. Your issue could be MAF failure, Throttle Body failure, Fuel delivery, the list goes on and if you try and cure it by changing parts it could be expensive. Better to spend a little on diagnostics and be sure that if you chage a part it fixes the problem. Dave