Greydog

Welcome Rob Check www.realoem.com put the last 7 digits of your Vin number in the search box and see what is available Good Luck Dave

Hi Steve Welcome to the Forum My AMG's had speed limiter function but my X5 has a speed alert (bong) that is set through the OBC (check your hand book) but no limiter that I am aware of. Dave

2 sizes, your specialist tool kit overflows 😁 Dave

Morning Andy From what I can see mine was factory order with folding mirrors plus being older (simpler) to fiddle with. So you may require the check box activating plus a software update. Someone with INPA/NCS/DIS who can help is needed I think. Dave

Hi Tom I had a local BMW Dealer my car was AUC with Warranty when I brought it from them they were terrible to deal with there were never any issues found or sorted. Took it to a different BMW Dealer 20 miles away and they sorted all sorts of niggles without me even asking. Keep the pressure on to get it sorted, ask them if they have checked swirl flaps and wastegate bolts Good Luck Dave

Remember you can buy motors through the well known auction site at not a lot of money the difficult thing now is finding micro switches. While your checking I will look in BMW 1.4.0 to see if they need activating through the software it may save you some time if thats it Dave

Morning Simon Like all manufacturers BMW use parts across several models. Have a look at www.realoem.com put the last 7 digits of your Vin number into the search box and it will bring up your model. Then search in the Bodywork section and find the part number, click on the part number and it will give a list of models that that door was used on. Dave

Hi Tom Welcome You don't tell us which engine your running or how many miles? That helps us. Short answer for BMW to kind of shrug their shoulders is not acceptable on a car of this supposed quality rattles are wrong. I would be looking at using a different BMW Dealer or a BMW Specialist Dave

As the drain is normally a rubber pipe I am thinking that an over enthusiastic valeter has possibly dislodged or folded the drain with a hoover nozzle. With luck maybe you can get your hand in there and sort it. Or if you have hands like mine a bendy 10 year old Grandson works well in tight spots Dave

Morning Andy I would be asking for the cost of replacement from the seller. That way it saves your wallet and your contingency money. Reverting to standard set up should be straight forward though you may need quite a few parts (look at realoem) I would also budget for replacing all bushes at the rear while the work is done. Also get a full all wheel alignment done. Dave

Great to know it was a good step forward particularly if it sounds like the Vid, once they know where your wallet is ehh!! Good move with the auto hold function, you may have a bit more faffing with the mirrors when I got mine it had the standard switch. I had to change the nearside mirror cover and discovered there were motors in there so got a window control switch nothing so did a bit of reading (well a lot ) and discovered the micro switches suffer or to be more accurate the spring arm that opens and closes them. Spent a Sunday playing and found the drivers side micro switch in bits I guess a previous owner didnt want to investigate so for some mad reason changed the switch. I managed to get a new micro switch from Maplins and got them working then decided to see if I could get them to close on lock and open on unlock. A bit of head scratching and a small circuit with 3 relays and my mirrors close on lock and open on unlock. I have a BMW specialist who services it and it drives him nuts as it's not supposed to happen on the E53 Let us know how it goes Dave If you want the wiring diagram I can dig it up

Welcome Wayne This is a new one. Where was it in for repair? if the check light is on normally a fault is recorded and held in the memory of each module. If a BMW diagnostic program is used it can interrogate each control module individually I used BMW 1.4.0. When I scan the car it will show each module with and indicator against it (example DME1 fault) when I interrogate the fault I can see either a Red indicator (fault present) a Yellow indicator (fault not present) plus a description of the fault. If the Garage used a generic reader it may not see the history in each control module. Attached is a screen from my brother inlaws 530d which we scanned last weekend there are 3 screens of modules. Most of the faults on his car were historic (fault not present) so were just reset Dave

Morning John A couple of other sites I use www.newtis.info this is a BMW Technical Information site same info as used by BMW Dealers. It is their repair and service manual with luck descriptions and how too's will be there. If not look at www.pelicanparts.com this one is an American site (so steering wheel on the wrong side) but full of very good how too's with photographs I have not heard of your problem before but I would look for Heater AC sections Good Luck Dave

Morning Andy That is not standard, take a look at www.realoem.com I would say someone has fitted an adjustable spring lowering kit. Looking at your pictures something is out of kilter particularly if the other side is straight ( you don't say) My first thoughts are if whoever the last owner was has fitted a lowering kit, how hard have they ragged the car generally especially as it doesn't seem to have been well fitted. Dave

Hi Mark Have a look at www.realoem.com put the last 7 digits of your Vin number in the search box it will bring up your model then look under the engine section and the inlet manifold will be with or without flap control. Obviously if it has flap control it has swirl flaps. Same for your other car though I think only diesels have swirl flaps. Dave

If the pipe is blowing off something is causing excess pressure, either a fault in the high pressure pump a blocked or damaged pipe or a connection is damaged. It doesn't make sense to just refit the pipe if it keeps blowing off?? I would at a minimum be changing the return pipe blocked/faulty injectors would have been causing all sorts of other issues.

If it only happens when the AC is on I would be checking the integrity of the Condensation drains that normally give the little puddle of water under your car when idling on hot days. Take a look at www.realoem.com search your model and look at the exploded drawings for the location of any drain tubes. Remember getting to them behind the dash may need the help of a contortionist. Dave

Welcome David What your seeing are Generic codes you really need a BMW specific code reader like BMW 1.4.0, INPA, Autologic or similar they will be more specific in their description. Regarding the codes your seeing they are associated with vacuum leaks 171 and 174 normally appear together which is why your being asked about 171 particularly as your engine is inline. Have you checked for air and vacuum leaks include the crank case breather, I would also check the loom to the coils for any cracks or faults. Dave

Hi Derek Welcome to the Forum My first though is somewhere the return line is blocked/restricted, I don't have a diesel but even the petrol models have a fuel return with a fuel return valve. Worth checking if yours has a fuel return valve and if it's working? Also check the fuel filler cap is correct for the car Let us know what they find Dave

Hi John Don't dismiss water entering through the passenger door check the membrane in the door is undamaged and sealed, plus silly one is/was the passenger window fully closed? Dave

Hi Brian Your not the only member from the US with regards to your car it looks great. For help with information here are some sites that will be useful. www.realoem.com this is an online BMW parts website just put the last 7 digits of your Vin number in the search box and it will bring up your model then look for what you need it will give part numbers so if buying spares you know they will fit. Plus small exploded drawings to see how and where they fit. I also use www.newtis.info a BMW online technical information site, the same information used by BMW Dealers, great for How Too's Last but not least www.pelicanparts.com this is an American site with plenty of information and how too's with pictures. Also if you don't have a code reader they are invaluable in sorting issues I use BMW 1.4.0 loaded on an old laptop Great to have you aboard Enjoy the Beemer Dave

Welcome to the Forum Micheal When was the last time the car was serviced? When was the last time the last time the gearbox was serviced? You really need a Garage with the ability/equipment to read the fault codes your OBC faults pictured are not accurate just an indication. Take the car to a BMW Dealer or a BMW Specialist or an Independent with at least Autologic software they will be more able to identify the issues then once you know what it is and the cost to fix you can make informed decisions. As an example transmission could be as simple as it needing a service. Smoke could be condensation/coolant in the exhaust or oil mist through through a clogged EGR filter or a split pipe or something internal in the engine. You certainly wont get the cars worth if you try to sell/trade it with the Dash lit up like a Christmas tree and it not running.right. Dave

Morning Karen I would talk to some of the BMW specialist breakers (oop's think we have to call them re-cyclers now) The M52 engine was used in many other models so there will be a low miles M52 engine out there, they came in 2.0 2.5 and 2.8 any of which will fit and with your sensors and ecu connected have you back on the road Remember you should tell your insurers if you put a bigger lump in. The only thing to be aware of is early engines are single Vanos latter engines were twin Vanos if you go twin Vanos you will need the engine loom and ECU/DME Just had a quick google and there are several M52 engines from £300 up if you added around £1000 for labour (another oop's I am assuming you're not going to do it yourself my daughter will nag me if she see's this) and items like oil, antifreeze gaskets etc and your back on the road for about £1500. If you go with a 2.8 your back with significant power hike and if I read correctly a possible improvement in economy. Hope this helps Dave

I would talk to a couple of garages to get some comparison costs between rebuild or replace with a used/refurb unit. Once you have the costs you are in a stronger position to make a decision Cars tend to have 2 values the hard nosed market value and the emotional attachment value, only you can answer that question. Dave

Give them a call or mail them, I had a Dynavin unit in my 4.4 X5 and it was very good (better than the overpriced OEM kit) plus they were very helpful before and after sale.