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CuppaJoe

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  • First Name
    Joe
  • BMW Model
    520d SE
  • BMW Year
    2009

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  1. Used realoem site, but it's even more complicated It lists six or seven different batteries, including the one fitted, so that doesn't help. Finding the same spec battery leads me to varta F21, AGM battery. But my car does not have stop- start. Just a start button. Guess I'm going to have to find a cheap normal battery with a higher output and then find someone to register the change and code.
  2. I've used miller's ecomax and sometimes added in two stroke oil in VW PD diesels, with some smoothing of its rougher running. Not sure about the BMW, as they are a common rail. I wouldn't have any issues chucking some miller's in there too though, it's just detergents like you'd get in say She'll V-power or whatever it's called these days, so unless BMW are saying don't use premium diesel, just use any old supermarket dregs, I can't see any issues unless you get the dosing wrong over a prolonged period.
  3. Hi TCon, I am not averse to getting the dpf emptied out and coded out, would have to be a good, nay, impossible to visually see job though. I've got an Elgrand which has 4 cats, 2 of which have been decored and no one would be any the wiser without an endoscope and a lot of time to navigate up through the rear and middle box. Might even be able to get the fronts decored too, as it runs LPG. Sorry to digress a little😁
  4. I'm sadly familiar with the dpf not liking short journeys after owning two Volvo d5s, which still didn't like it even with a fortnightly 1 hour each way motorway schlep. I'm hoping the 5 series manages things better - given the journeys this 5 has done in its life, a lot of time it was reasonably shirt, but had good runs every month or two. I've read lots about the battery coding, with some saying needs to be coded as the charging cycle/rate will be different between a new and old battery and the car won't know otherwise, even if it is like for like. Closest I've found so far is 80ah, but 850cca. I'll check out the realoem site, thank you.
  5. Recently for a new to me e60, and have a few niggles. Which is mildly disappointing as I assumed, given it was owned from New by the same person, who I knew to not skimp on servicing -everything mean dealer, on the button, last service late 2019 with a specialist Indy. Oil service shows up as due....given the car has largely been stood since lockdown, entirely necessary? Last done August 2019 ,6k ago. I'm guessing probably a good idea to still get it done? Also, I see from the check messages it's now reporting oil level too high...could this be as I was on a reverse slope, or do I urgently need to get the oil changed and back to 'acceptable' levels? (Brake fluid and inspection due October 2021, rest have got 27k to go on service computer.) Secondly, increased battery discharge whilst stationary message. This was on when ingot the vehicle, I'm assuming due to its long period of not really being used - it was sorned last July, has only been turned over weekly for ten fifteen minutes since. Warning light expired on the trip back from collection, but popped up again this morning. Leading through the service history, I see a note saying battery at 33% back in 2016. Still original battery. Replacement probably a good idea. However BMW are quoting me 220 for the battery and 40 for coding it in. I know dealerships are usually a but more, but a standard lead acid battery,80ah, 800cca is NOT 220. It's not an AGM bateryy as it's not a stop start car, it just has a start engine button. I know it's not AGM as the stickers on top refer to flooded battery and it's got a breathing tube attached. BMW insisting it's AGM, hence the price. Best off just getting a comparable standard battery and having an Indy code it? I don't want to start buying diagnostic software and another laptop to run it just for coding a battery or checking the dpf soot levels.
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