Greydog

Morning Nathan OK more information thanks, first I would back track over all work carried out check carefully the Pinout changes that have been made to the connectors also check carefully the Earth connections. BMW are very fond of using Earth connection triggers. If one of the altered pinouts are incorrect you could have a damaged unit? Now registration sequences, if your FRM was faulty it is quite possible the registration of the other components wasn't accepted. So what Diagnostic Program are you using ? If it is INPA/ISTA I would scan to check all units are being seen if they are then disconnect the battery for 30 mins (Neg first) When reconnected with the Diagnostic tool start with the FRM make sure it is registered correctly with all functions confirmed. Next same process with the CIC. If the pinouts are correct earth connections clean and in good order the units are registered correctly and the enabling codes are OK it should work, unless of course it is damaged or not compatible with your car. Dave

Morning Nathan I have never attempted a conversion like this but my thoughts are 1. Once the parts are fitted and registered to the chassis you will need an enabling code or software 2. When the system was fitted did whoever fitted it use BMW ISTA/INPA to register all parts or another system? 3. The parts currently fitted all came from the same vehicle? 4. I hope that the new CCC hasn't been damaged Have you checked good old Youtube to see if there is any Video help Dave

Morning Chris Welcome to the Forum I would think Disc's Caliper brackets and possibly the backplate may need changing as a minimum but you also may need bigger wheels to get clearance for the caliper Check www.realoem.com search the different models in your year to see what was fitted and the part numbers Hope this helps Dave

Morning Paul Looking at www.realoem.com it depends on your Model if it is F15 then the box should be ZF GA8HP75Z-AWD if it is an E70 LCI then it is ZF GA8HP70Z-AWD Take a look at www.realoem.com put the last 7 digits of your Vin into the search box and it will bring up your Model then look at the Gearbox Dave

Morning Joseph I would check that spark plugs are fitted and torqued correctly also check injectors and seals. They are the simple things If as Stu says Compression is down due to a faulty head gasket then major engine work is required. Dave

Morning Gareth I am not sure if all the "OEM" head units are capable of accepting a sub. First I would check one of the Vin Decoder sites to get the build sheet, if memory serves there are 2 or 3 systems that were fitted and not all OEM units will readily accept an AMP. With those that do check www.realoem.com to see if an additional lead is needed. Also check if you need additional software to enable an amp in the Headunit I would also check You Tube to see if any helpful soul has done the job and videoed it Dave

Morning Gareth What Stu said + ENJOY your BMW Dave

Great information Chris going to check my X5 now 👍 Dave

Morning Chris I believe the Trailer Braking module was only fitted for certain markets (USA) it was fitted I believe in the boot with the towing electrics control package Don't dismiss the battery information BMW OEM supply was Westfalia it maybe worth talking to some of their Agents Good Luck Dave

Enjoy the Aldi Stu Dave

Congrats Stu Remember the first word she will say only sounds like Mummy if you listen carefully it's MONEY Enjoy Dave

Morning Chris Welcome to the Forum Hope this helps Its doesn't switch on the ignition live straight away though and has some pre conditions before pin goes live. There might be a chance that it needs coding to activate the switched ignition but everything is there already from the trailer module to the 13 pin socket.

Morning Trevor Welcome to the Forum My brother inlaws 540d touring Xdrive is ECU tuned and over 400bhp no other mods other than it is de-badged it is quite capable of embarrassing some very serious cars particularly in the mid range. It still give 40+ mpg on a run (if he has left his lead boot at home). He has a business based in Holland so travels extensively in Europe and loves beating up the odd super car with it's mid range go. I have been thinking of Retiring my X5 4.6is and going the 4.0d route Dave

Hi Toni You need a diagnostic scan, my guess is the EWS is faulty and not allowing the key to program it may just need reprogramming it's self or a new EWS fitted and matched to the DDE The reason I said don't dismiss the Key is as Phillip says a key that has been tampered with can cause all sorts of issues Stu on here had to fit a new EWS and reprogram it to his chassis and DDE plus programming new keys to fix the problem If you can't DIY you need the help of someone with BMW Diagnostic capability Dave

Try putting it in the Cars For Sale Section

Morning Nicola Welcome to the Forum You need first to investigate where the leak is, if it around the turbo or from the turbo water will evaporate but you will get the smell. It could be the Turbo, Turbo Actuator, Boost pressure regulator all the Oil Feed, Water feed and Vacuum pipes need checking and or changing. A Diagnostic session may help but an experienced mechanic may be the answer. Dave

Everyone is different and have their own view of what is right for them and their car. Your view it seems based on the figures you have is it's uneconomical to repair an "15 year car, no longer in love with, outdated, leaky BMW." I would not keep the car if that is the way you feel as you will never feel happy with it. So Trade it or take We Buy any Car's offer and move on to something you will enjoy. What is an expensive repair on a car you don't want to someone like me is a Saturday DIY job (My X5 is 19) Good Luck with what ever you choose to do Dave

Morning David Welcome to the Forum Bit freaky !! Does it lock using the key? As both actuators are the same age it could be it's failed as well or it may need lubrication or simply the plug connections cleaned with contact cleaner Dave

Morning Joseph I have BMW ISTA/INPA and BMW 1.4.0 mounted on an old laptop (along with several other diagnostic programs) I also own an Autel 702 scanner For early BMW (up to 2005/2006 Ibus system BMW 1.4.0 is easy to use and gives Dealer level diagnostics. After then ISTA/INPA again gives dealer level access but also includes Technical and repair information I have friends who use Foxwell and Icarsoft systems with their BMW's I have never tried the one you mention Good Luck with whatever the choice is Dave

Hi Margo That doesn't read well for BMW have you contacted the Article publishers to see if they have in formation on what other models are affected? Maybe join the fray or at least print it off and give it to the Dealer ? Sadly often the Dealer has his hands tied by the Manufacturer as if they effect a repair the Manufacturer may not support it, it is then at their cost? Good Luck Dave

Hi Ray When my Mercedes had this seemingly random issue alternator output was always good. The discharge became more frequent I put a clamp ammeter on the battery and could see around a 5amp discharge so started unplugging things the discharge stopped when I unplugged the Voltage regulator a new Bosch regulator was around £50 from memory changed it no more problem. When I tested the old Voltage Regulator it had 3 diodes inside and one had failed allowing the drain. I would start with the regulator if your changing bits as it is much the cheaper part Dave

Morning Toni First dont dismiss the Key if it starts the car it is being charged when it's in the ignition. If it isn't communicating with the EWS or there is a fault with the EWS your issue could be in that area. Dave

Morning Joseph Welcome to the Forum If buy a Scanner make sure you get a BMW capable one a General scanner will see the major control units. A BMW capable one will give much clearer information Your issue could be plugs, Coil Packs, a vacuum leak, air leaks on the inlet, clogged fuel filter (often forgotten at service) A good service is the place to start Good Luck Dave

Morning Arthur Welcome to the Forum First check your battery and its condition a low battery will cause all sorts of spurious Fault messages. If charging make sure its done at the charge points under the bonnet. If it happens again try starting in N if that works it could be the inhibitor switch on the gear selector Good luck

Ouch I wonder if people like BBA Reman or ECU Testing could do anything ??