Greydog

Hi Maze If BMW found oil sitting on the engine tray it would appear there is a leak somewhere? If the Gearbox Drain was loose, I would start there make sure it is tightened correctly (correct torque) and not leaking then check the Transmission fluid level and top up if required that could well be your drivetrain issue. As for oil in the engine tray if someone was clumsy topping up that could account for it, or an oil feed or return at the turbo's could be at fault. Catalyser's can be blocked but as yours is also your DPF you would have all sorts, other issues not the least of them poor running. BMW would also have picked it up on the health check (you can measure the amount of soot held in the DPF) they would have recommended a Regeneration cycle, I am sure. Dave

Hi Anthony Welcome to the Forum I have read that the AD Blue should automatically reset try putting some more in as the writer reported that literally 1/2 half a litre more and everything reset as it should. Seems they are sensitive beasts X5's Dave

Morning Maze Welcome to the Forum First is it Oil or Diesel (neither is good) the smell should tell you. Who checked for Oil Leaks and what did they check? Did they check the turbo oil feeds and returns for example. Has the fuel system and emissions system been checked including the return system. Has your car had the EGR recall? Finally, the Drive train warning can be triggered by sensors on the Engine, Gearbox, and Diff You don't say how many miles the car has covered and what it's history is. Get the engine sorted first then depending on the result (is the Drivetrain warning gone) check the rest. A diagnostic scan with a BMW capable scanner would be a great help. Dave

Hi John Welcome to the Forum And once you know it's there you can't ignore it !! All I can suggest is first empty all the storage trays of everything see if that helps. Check the seat for any loose trim or plugs/switches (underneath) If it's behind the dash the task changes as the only way to find it is to remove as many dash covers as possible then with the revs around 1500rpm touch press stuff until you find the culprit. Then either Mastic or foam to keep them apart. Good Luck with the hunt Dave

Hi Andrew The poor old Gearbox is the most abused part in many makes of car as far as BMW are concerned "Lifetime" means the end of their Warranty responsibility, so 3 years or about 60k 😁 The gearbox in your car should be the ZF G6-37DZ-TJEF manual box Fluid should be MTF-LT-3 The Diff if I remember correctly is BMW OSP Synthetic, I haven't found much better prices away from the Dealer, you should be able to find equivalents through most motor factors that may save a few pounds if you're on a budget. Take a look at www.realoem.com put the last 7 digits of your Vin into the search box it will call up your model then check the gearbox section. The ZF manual says service every 60 to 80k depending on use and climate. Dave

Morning Andrew First tip, make sure you have the correct gearbox fluid and diff oil. Second tip make sure you can undo the filler plugs before draining the gearbox or diff. I do know of someone who drained the box then discovered the fill plug was damaged and couldn't be removed without taking the box out of the car The job is much easier with plenty of room under the car so if you can borrow or hire the use of a lift brilliant. Good Luck Dave

Morning Hunter Welcome to the Forum Remember that General codes 30ff and PO112 are often symptoms not necessarily the cause You refer to BOV ? do you have an aftermarket Blow Off Valve? the standard turbo actuators operate at 9 psi yet you refer to 19 psi. The higher the boost the hotter the intake air temp is which may well put it outside normal operating parameters and throw the code. I would go very carefully back over the work done and check everything, vacuum line routing, make sure none are kinked absolutely no leaks. I would also invest in a BMW capable diagnostic scanner it will give far more accurate information Good luck sorting it Dave

Morning Welcome to the Forum Simple answer NO you need to check tensioners and pulleys ASAP. Thrown drive belt can cause a lot of damage you don't want Dave

Morning Darryl Traction control and Parking Brake fault could be linked could be separate you need a Diagnostic Scan by someone with a BMW capable system preferably ISTA/INPA The reason is it could be a sensor, or the ABS module, or the Parking brake actuator, or the Parking brake switch, or a simple loose wire. So get a scan done and the car fixed Dave

Morning Sadie Welcome to the Forum Fabulous car ENJOY I am a great believer in interim oil changes and a check over to help a cars life Dave

If you need them in a different format give me a shout Dave

I guess you have tried BBS direct ? BMW Dealers can be erratic in how they respond so I would call or email BMW UK as well (cover all the Bases) If you look on www.realoem.com put the last 7 digits of your Vin into the search box it will bring up your model (or search the Classic section manually) you will see BMW show them as Priced and available (Price in US $ as it is an American site) Dave

Getting there at last perseverance pays off. The HPFP is under the inlet manifold so it will have come off, the rest is fairly straight forward. Make sure you have new seals and gaskets before you start hope it goes smoothly Dave

Morning Jez Welcome to the Forum Have you tried all the usual suspects like Google BMW Specialist Dismantlers and try them or a quick look at www.realoem.com shows the Type 5 as still available the hub caps it seems are out of production which doesn't make sense. Type 29 are shown as still available. New from BMW they won't be cheap however, but it may be worth contacting BMW UK they have a classic division who should help plus they have some useful discounts for us with older models. Good Luck with the hunt Dave

Morning Colin I may be wrong, but I thought your model was fitted with the N47 engine which if I recall has an Engine driven water pump. When did you last check the Coolant level? If you have had to top up a few times that would indicate a leak which needs checking out. Is the cooling fan kicking in correctly. The electric pump you're forcing to start where is it? it could be an auxiliary water pump to aid warm up. Though I didn't think they were fitted to the N47 ((again I could be wrong) Even a new pump can fail, as can a thermostat. White smoke could be a sign of some other failure due to overheating it needs investigating Dave

With my AMG's 10k to 15k for the rears was fairly normal one of my sons said any more and your driving like Miss Daisy's Chauffeur

Ha Ha, I dare say loads and loads of stuff that I have never seen or even heard of but as they say every day is a school day Owned BMW's since 2004 plus there are 7 in the immediate family without their friends and being an inquisitive Engineer I just have to know "how and why" an ex-neighbour worked for BMW UK even he asked for help a couple of times 😅 Now with my E70 I am learning about BMW Diesel's a whole new world of opportunity and as my wife says it keeps me out of the pub I have always been the same with any car I have owned and there have been a lot since the early 1960's Good Luck with the scan and flush Dave

Do a Google search on test values for the Pressure regulator and Pressure sensor dont forget to check the Air mass sensor as well Good luck Dave

Morning Paul Check the level is correct and try a tube of Dr Tranny I had a similar issue with my E53 4.6is Diagnostic on mine first said Turbine (Torque converter) then valve body I changed the fluid and added Dr Tranny no re-occurrence since. Issue started at 110k (Fluid change had been done at 84k) now on 164k much cheaper than the alternative. Your problem could be a tiny bit of debris in the valve body or just something sticking. I flushed mine by disconnecting the trans hose at the transmission cooler on the Rad attach a piece of clear hose and feed it into a marked clear container (I used an old Coke bottle marked at 1ltr points), then with the help of my son in the car start the engine until 3 ltrs are in the Coke bottle. Engine off refill the trans with 3 litres of new Fluid and repeat, I pushed 10ltrs through which ensured the torque converter was clean as well. A normal fluid change will leave the torque converter full of old fluid and whatever is floating in it. Run the engine until the trans is up to temperature check the levels and put in a tube of Dr Tranny job done. Just about to do my E70 Dave

Sadly, BMW are not alone among manufacturers in trying to convince us we are all too Dumb and their control and wiring systems are far too complicated for us to understand so without the Dealer workshop our cars will never work again!! Try this for the fuses still working on getting you Wiring and Pin out information Fuse Boxes E93.docx

The distribution valve should be near the diesel pump and filter looking at the drawing, again looking at the drawing it seems the pump pushes diesel direct to the HPFP through its own line the distribution valve should only open if the Webasto is called on I don't think they were designed to run with the engine. Normally the Webasto starts to warm the cabin and make it toasty on cold mornings shutting down when the main motor starts. In the cars settings there should be stop/start settings for the Webasto unit I know some have a seperate remote for starting them maybe there is more info in the handbook. I have to say apart from scraping a little frost of the windows in the last 20 years it hasn't been cold enough in the South of England to need a toy like that. I would check the fuel line routing just in case the return line from the HPFP/Injector rail is linked and leaking through the Webasto. My personal feeling is you probably have heated seats so it's more a nice toy then a need to have so me I would probably remove it and sell it on Ebay, but that's me. On the fuel rail there should be a Schrader valve with the engine cranking you should see 3.5 to 5 bar (50+psi to 70+psi) Have you checked the injector wiring? and relay ?

Morning Rob If you are buying from a Dealer get them to fix it BEFORE you buy. If you are buying Private walk away as there are no "cheap fixes" with a BMW just ask yourself why the current owner hasn't fixed it? Don't listen to rubbish like "it doesn't affect how it drives? Or the parts are easy to get on Ebay ? It could be a sensor fault, it could be a control unit fault, it could be a steering rack fault so unless you have the skill knowledge and equipment to diagnose and repair it walk or it will empty your wallet faster than you think is possible. Dave

Morning The pump under the rear seat is the main diesel pump it supplies diesel to the engine driven high pressure pump and Webasto heater. The attachments may help they are from realoem. This first one is the delivery from the tank you can see the Webasto has a distribution valve that should only allow fuel when the control timer tells it to run. yours seems to be getting fuel all the time? That will knock a big hole in your economy. The attached is from Realoem and shows the fuel delivery system and parts list print them off they will help with seeing where things go. Take a look at www.realoem.com put the last 7 digits of your vin into the search box it will bring up your model. Then check the Fuel supply section and the Fuel preparation system the exploded drawings will help identify what you're seeing. Were you aware of a leak before your issue? if not it may be that the fuel return is linked to the Webasto, did the Webasto run before? You need to check fuel pressure at the fuel rail the electric pump does not generate enough pressure to atomise fuel at the Injectors you need the engine driven pump to generate that pressure when the engine is cranked. The high pressure pump is under the inlet manifold and not difficult to change just make sure you don't reuse any gaskets when reassembling But get the sensors checked first before changing the pump if the sensors test OK it must be the pump Dave BMW 3.0d Fuel delivery.pdf RealOEM.com - Online BMW Parts Catalog.html

Brown is BMW's choice for Earth colour somewhere in the back of the Boot (Trunk) behind a trim will be a common earth point (like a comb) it needs unbolting cleaning and remounting preferably with an electrical contact paste to ensure a good earth is made may help cure the issue. BMW has an Online TIS (technical information system) which like Realoem was free. In their wisdom (and probably to frustrate guys like us) they made the decision to make it subscription only!! INPA/ISTA have WIS (Workshop Information) and TIS in the program but my old Garage laptop with all my diagnostic programs loaded the screen has died (it is 20 years old) if I can get it up and running, I will see if I can print off some stuff for you. Attached is a pdf of the boot locking mechanism and its parts the parts key is below No. Description Supp. Qty From Up To Part Number Price Notes WITHOUT Lock cylinder TRUNK LID 01 Trunk lid lock 1 07/2009 51247353615 02 Bowden cable, emergency unlocking 1 07/2009 51247201608 $13.30 For vehicles with Emergency release, luggage compartment S5DSA=Yes 03 Handle f emergency unlocking 1 51247056414 $7.25 EBA 0141456 04 Clip 1 51247056413 $1.69 05 Washer 1 51247057739 $1.26 06 Boot lid/tailgate pushbutton 1 51247118158 $29.40 +core 07 Catch with key 1 51247199828 07 Catch with code 1 51247199829 $130.68 08 Lock cover 1 51247130828 $1.18 09 Torx-bolt with washer ISA M6X17 2 07147139404 $0.80 10 Catch bracket left 1 51247159611 $15.68 10 Catch bracket right 1 51247159612 $15.68 11 Base 2 51247177487 $0.38 12 Torx-bolt with washer ISA M6X17 4 07147139404 $0.80 13 Torx-bolt with washer ISA M6X17 6 07147139404 $0.80 BMW E93 Boot Locking mechanism..pdf

OK always worth checking I can't remember off hand if the fuel filter has a pressure sensor (some do) yours should have a distribution valve to send fuel to the Webasto take care with the fittings some can be brittle (been there). I changed a fuel filter on one of my Brother Inlaws 5 series touring (he is on his 4th) and it was pretty much clogged solid, all his cars have a complete BMW Dealer history. The Dealers reaction was "Can't happen Sir" you must have picked up some contaminated fuel?? His symptoms were drop off in economy and performance and poor cold starting. A scan at home showed poor fuel pressure at the injector rail. Put a catch tray under it when you take it off as there will be some spillage. Your fuel rail has a Fuel pressure regulator at the back end and the fuel pressure sensor at the front end. A Google search might show up some test information that will help with the high-pressure pump, regulator and pressure sensor.