Greydog

Morning Scott 3 or 4 years ago travelling at around 40mph suddenly no drive, no noises bangs or bumps parked and called the AA who using snapon came up with the same fault. Their diagnosis gearbox? Got recovered and like you selector showed all gears Drive Reverse Manual and Sport modes turned out to be rear diff failure. Sadly not that rare with the 3.91 diffs, if the diff is sound I would contact a ZF specialist who can read the internal box codes from the mechtronic unit. Dave

Morning Dan Welcome to the Forum very tasty choice of motor ENJOY You need to get the codes read to find out what is going on with the rough running, you need a garage with Autologic or BMW specific software or even get your own it will pay dividends. I use BMW 1.4.0 on a laptop only cost about £15 Can;t help with a garage in Essex but have a look at the BMW Specialist Register it will give you all there are in your area. I believe your car has Idrive so you should be able to get connected through the Idrive, Check your handbook with my bluetooth in the X5 it only holds 4 or 5 phones in its memory when I first got mine I couldnt connect (I have a "pairing" button in the cubby under the arm rest) because the blutooth memory was full. I cleared it and all good I have read though that some smart phones/Iphones are difficult. Some sites that may help www.realoem.com an on line BMW parts list put the last 7 digits of your Vin number in the search box and it will bring up your model it will make sure if you buy parts they are correct for your car. www.newtis.info is a BMW Technical information site, the same information used by BMW Dealers Dave

What tool was used to read the codes? It needs to be a BMW capable system generic readers just wont do it, particularly as it seems to me your car has been cobbled together. The 323 engine should give around 150 to 160 bhp from memory. So assuming your engine is in tip top mechanical order (no serious wear) and the DME is actually correct for the engine? If those things are correct then it should feel lively in a stripped out shell. However if the engine is worn and the fuel pump is delivering fuel for a 1.8 and the DME thinks the engine is something else it may run but you will never see any power. If I was building the car (and I built short oval hotrods and rallycross cars in the 70's) I would 1st compression test the engine if it is down on compression nothing but a rebuild or engine swap will bring power. 2nd if the engine is strong then make sure the oil delivery system is as well as you will be going sideways a lot make sure its sump is baffled to ensure no oil starvation takes place. 3rd make sure the DME is correct for the engine or it may run but will never perform. 4th fuel pressure at the fuel rail is it correct, are the airflow meter and throttle body correct and working properly? Sorry if it sounds as though I am teaching granny to suck eggs but with out a solid foundation you are burning money.

Morning Larry Welcome to the Force Padiwan!! First is your X5 full front and rear air or just rear? I have read that the F15 models have either 2 or 4 level sensors depending on whether you have adaptive suspension (2) or adaptive suspension with Zennon or adaptive LED lights (4) or full air (4) First driving on deflated air bags will damage them. The air bags are pretty robust I just changed my rear airbags at 16 years. When the car is opened does the compressor run? If not check the fuses (1 x 7.5a 1 x 30a on my X5) If the fuses are OK then check the compressor relay, not normally an issue but stuff does fail. The self leveling sensors are pretty robust but again if one had failed the issue would be on that corner. If you need help finding stuff take a look at www.realoem.com put the last 7 digits of your vin into the search box and it will bring up your model, this is a BMW online parts list so when buying replacement parts you know you have the right part. Also www.newtis.info this one is a BMW Technical Information site this is the same information that BMW Dealer workshops use plenty of pictures and drawings with descriptions. Let us know how it goes Dave

DME is the engine management, if your engine is quiet at start and tick over I am guessing the Vanos is OK but the solenoid is either sticking or broken. If you unplug and it makes no difference then I would say first take the solenoid off and clean it if that makes no difference change it.

Morning Seungwook We have to assume the oil and coolant levels are OK? , when was the car last serviced? Are there any other noises knocks or rattles? You need the codes read by a garage or someone with Autologic or BMW software to give a better diagnosis. Your issue could be MAF failure, Throttle Body failure, Fuel delivery, the list goes on and if you try and cure it by changing parts it could be expensive. Better to spend a little on diagnostics and be sure that if you chage a part it fixes the problem. Dave

If all is quiet then that is an encouraging sign, doesn't mean the Vanos is working just that the seals seem OK. Have you unplugged the Vanos solenoid? If the solenoid isnt working then at tick over all is normal when you open the throttle you are not getting any advance in cam timing so less power. What else has been changed under the bonnet are you using the original DME what connections have been cut if any?

Get them (or you) to check the ride height sensors on the X5 they are mounted towards the front of the rear suspension, black plastic it has a knuckle joint that should point to the outside of the car. If the suspension has been pulled down to far (when they changed bags) and when it went back the knuckle joint folded the wrong way you will have a fault. I have read of this on quite a few X5's. As the X5 of my vintage are old tech maybe a bit of research is needed. Take a look at www.realoem.com check the air suspension drawing and parts list I just had a quick look you have 1 control unit and a control relay. So if the air bags have been replaced my thinking is the control unit needs checking/resetting or the relay and control unit need replacing.due to a fault. Dave

When the Vanos seals are gone it sounds like the top end is going to fall apart, loud rattle that's what I had with my 4.4 years ago the engine ran OK but it was so rattly I thought the chain guides had gone.

Welcome Zennon What a great tip, I wonder how many 320 owners have either scrapped or sold the car through fear of big bills. Dave

Have you unplugged the Vanos solenoid to see if that makes a difference? If it doesn't then the Vanos adjustment isn't working for some reason (probably the vanos solenoid) First you need to establish which engine version you have 1st Generation 1992 on M50 engines had single Vanos operating on the Inlet cam, in 1996 (I think) the S50 engine was introduced with twin vanos. If the Vanos seals are shot then the noise will let you know

Good thinking Trevor, if it is a drift/competition car won't the scrutineers want to see a master kill switch accessible from outside the car ?

Hi Philip Welcome to the Forum It depends on how you do it, you could take off your existing calipers have them stripped media blasted and powder coated rebuild them and refit them with new discs. Obviously there is the time off the road to consider with this option. Or buy new/refurbished calipers and paint them with high temperature caliper paint or not, this option would mean the car is off the road for the least amount of time. Cost wise I don't think there would be much difference in cost. Dave

Sounds great to me but then my 4.6 V8 averages 18 mpg but if I try I can easily get it into single figures 😈😈

Morning Paul/ Check www.realoem.com for both models put the last 7 digits of your vin in to the search box it will bring up your model do the same with the donor. Look in the gearbox section and click on the part number it should give a list of other models the box was used in. Just had a quick search and and it looks as though the 6 speed transmission was an option, check it out and check the 6 speed part numbers against your model. Dave

Normally there will be an ISO connection that just plugs into the cars loom at the Quadloc connector and into the back of the Kenwood unit if you get a Kenwood CD Changer and the long lead it will plug into the head unit and the CD unit will go in the boot where the original went. Your Radio man will advise and fit it I am sure but it isnt a complicated job just take your time. Dave

Morning John Welcome to the Forum Kenwood use their own bus software so it makes them fussy about what they will link with (I had Kenwood in a couple of V70 Volvo's) it may be simpler to find a Kenwood changer and lead. If you want to go back to OEM have a look at www.realoem.com put the last 7 digits in the search box and it will bring up your model then search the relevant section for the part numbers you will need. I assume that the OEM loom and all the connectors are still there? If the OEM Quadloc connector is up front then the OEM set up was originally "Business" with a Mid unit to communicate with the OBC and allow information in the binnacle. If the Quadloc is in the boot then the screen upfront had all the rest BM24 or 54 radio nav unit CD changer in the boot. Hope this helps Dave

Micheal Get the codes read by someone with BMW Diagnostic software or you will throw money at it Dave

Morning Mark The BMW straight six is one of the worlds great engines in either flavour. My brother inlaw has a 530d touring he commutes into Holland every week it is approaching 300k his previous 525d touring went beyond before he changed it. Both cars were/are BMW history to 100k then his local independent Garage plus we have the odd fiddle if something stumps them. As Trevor says at 140k is no mileage for these engines if they die it;s normally abuse not use. If I were you no matter what the book says I would give it a full service (engine, gearbox and diff) plus check the suspension shocks springs and bushes. Life for the bushes seems to be around 80k in my experience. Good Luck Dave

Like Wise

Morning Steve Welcome to the Forum Your Gearbox should be the ZF 6 speed box, normally when it is serviced the sump on the box is dropped so that the filter inside can be changed. While it is a DIY proposition it is a job far easier done on a ramp. ZF recommend service at around 80k km I had mine serviced by ZF at Crick took 3 hours and they are very thorough. There are many ZF specialists around but any competent autobox specialist and most good garages should be able to do it. If you do want to do it yourself have a look at www.newtis.info it has all the technical information you need (the same as used by BMW Dealers) You could also look at www.pelicanparts.com an American site so steering on the wrong side and no diesels but great how too's with step by step pictures. Hope this gives you what you need Dave

Morning Steven Welcome to the Forum From experience with my brother inlaws 530d Touring he had the screen replaced and several of the expanding rivets got lost or broken and it wasn't until a rattle developed he noticed so no going back to the fitters. www.realoem.com is your friend, put the last 7 digits of your Vin in the search box and it will bring up your model. Then look in the trim section it will give you the rivet sizes and part numbers, if yours is the same there are 2 sizes which I think is the reason they get broken when being replaced when someone forces a larger rivet into the smaller hole then the small ones don't fit the larger hole ?? Why 2 sizes so close together? Only the cunning designer can tell Dave

Welcome Ashley "BODGE" how horrendous is that!!! Take a look at www.realoem.com put the last 7 digits of your vin number in the search box and it will bring up your model, then look in the relevant section. The small exploded drawing will show what should be there plus the part numbers for replacement. With luck you may be able to soak it in penetrating fluid and undo it, fingers crossed the threads are sound and it will just need replacement bolts. I would do both sides to be sure plus check the rears seeing as you have discovered"Bob the Butchers" handiwork. From the picture I wonder if they have bitched the head of the torx bolt and welded a nut on to try and fix their problem?? You should as you say have either M12 bolts or M12 torx bolts I believe BMW only sell/use the torx head bolts now Also check www.newtis.info this one is a BMW online technical information site that is the same as the information BMW Dealers use. Good Luck Let us know the outcome this certainly isnt a common problem Dave

Bridgestone are also approved, currently running Yoko's on my X5 they are wearing well but they are quite noisy.

Welcome to the Forum Simon Why would we hate you ?? Jealous maybe 🤑 First the BMW hybrid isn't "new" they had one in the previous range, from what I have read the new model has improved electric range and pretty tasty combined performance plus as a company car the CO2 emissions make sense. ENJOY Let us know what you think warts and all Dave PS As i ts a plug in hybrid how long is the extension lead 😈