Greydog

Morning Paul Welcome to the Forum Somewhere on the wind deflector there will be a part number, once you find it check www.realoem.com when you open the program at the top of the page are 2 search boxes "Serial Number" and "Part Number" Put the part number in and it will bring up a list of applications/models it was used on. If you put the last 7 digits of your Vin number into the Serial Number box it will bring up your Model so you can get the correct part number for your car. I just had a quick look and the part number for your car is 54347269437 As the deflector you brought is to small I would guess that is for the 1 series I hope this helps Dave

Hi Ed Welcome to the Forum To try and answer your questions the diesel variant you have experience of and your new car will very much the same motor if you go the Diesel route. Xdrive, when I brought my first X5 we had sold our Horse Lorry and decided to use a Horse Trailer so needed a vehicle capable of towing it with a couple of fat horses on board. At that time I was running an AMG CLS, I didn't like the Mercedes ML shape I had suffered a Range Rover so went for the X5. A good friend who happens to be a Land Rover Discovery fan said "what did you get that for they are rubbish off road". Well 18 years on and I have never been stuck with either of the X5's though I will admit a slippery field or snotty gateway even an isolated track when out shooting can't be classed as "Off Road". However the X5 has pulled many others out of the mire including a certain Gent with his Discovery and the only thing I add is a set of wheels with Wintrac extreme tyres mud,snow and ice it keeps going just pop in 3rd manual and let the torque do the work As far as I am aware it will come with runflat tyres summer flavour. So an investment in winter tyres and wheels may be worth while if you are off to Europe skiing (we haven't had snow in Sussex for years) All 4x4 cars have an Achilles heel with tyres, they don't tolerate differences in rolling radius between front and rear or across axles it puts pressure on the transfer box (transmission wind up) which can cause expensive damage. Apart from that drive it and enjoy it Dave

Morning Noname Welcome to the Forum You say you have changed the Lock and checked the wiring at the hinge/transition point, but did you test for continuity or just visually check the wiring? Can you lock/unlock using the Key Fob or do you need the key to operate the lock ? If the car thinks the boot lid is open the alarm can't arm (flash) Take of the boot lid trim and check the continuity of the 4 wires from the lock to the other side of the transition point. I am assuming the Fog Lights Number Plate lights etc all work normally My money is on the signal wire (Grey/White IIRC ) having a break A couple of sites that may help www.realoem.com a BMW Online Parts List put the last 7 digits of your Vin into the search box it will bring up yout model, If you buy parts make sure the part numbers are correct. www.newtis.info A BMW Technical site Main Dealers use this for repair and replacement information use your Vin again. Hope this is helpful Dave

With a clutch problem I would guess somewhere between £500 and £900 depending on how good the rest of the car is Dave

Morning Brian I assume you mean your folding mirrors? If so the battery disconnect is a reset so I would look else where. The drivers door window control switch is the master but seems to be working as you have operation after reset, it may be as simple as the motors in the mirrors need lubrication or the limit switches are playing up (be careful they are fragile) if one is acting up it will affect both sides. Normally if its the limit switches the mirrors will close then open again. Hope this is some use Dave

Morning Richard Wow what a find. To protect your find as much as possible I would pull it out and trailer it away. From underneath get a socket on the crank and turn it by hand to make sure it hasn't seized. If it turns OK I would remove the spark plugs and put some diesel into the bores remember after 5 years the top of the engine will be dry (no oil) check the oil to make sure that's OK if possible give it an oil/filter change. Then in the boot check/change the batteries (if you weren't aware there are 2) or if the batteries are there and test OK a jump pack on the jump points under the bonnet. Take care I have read that if only 1 battery is changed serious damage can be caused. Once you have power spin it over several times without the plugs to (a) clear the diesel that has been lubricating the rings and (b) get oil pressure (oil light out on the dash) Now assuming fuel pumps are working plugs in and give it a go, all things equal it should start providing damage hasn't been done to the electronics by clumsy jump start efforts. Good Luck keep us posted Dave

Hi Will Paranoia is good it can save serious wallet damage Depending on how it's life was prior to you owning it will determine what you do, modern diesels are not happy with short journeys they never get hot enough to clear the emissions stuff EGR and DPF. So I would add some injector cleaner to the tank and run it through then the old "Italian tune up" (my son's description he has a Toyota pickup diesel ) As most of his journeys are short he puts the injector cleaner in runs it and then at the weekend gives it a good 50 mile Motorway blast (tune up) for part of it he keeps revs at around 3k in 4th this ensures the exhaust temperature gets high enough to let the DPF burn off the crud.We have cleaned his EGR twice simple but messy job. Dave

Morning Will Welcome to the Forum There are many sources of upgrade Angel Eye Lamps from Cree to some Chinese imports, Motor Factors Ebay or Halfords are all selling them. So as the saying goes we make our choice and pay our money, Cree are well respected and were one of the first in the HID/LED upgrade market. As for the rest Iphone's have become a pain as they change the charge point and size, but you already know that the same is true of the other "nice to have" toys Me I just listen to that old V8 never ceases to keep this old boy amused Good Luck Enjoy your Beemer Dave

Morning Daniel Holy moly what a muddle BMW use Brown as a Common Earth/Ground wire but what the others are I am guessing like you. Is the radio OEM or after market? They could be a reverse camera perhaps? Or rear entertainment for children? Get the old tester out for the Tow plug harness my X5 came with the OEM removable Towbar and single electrics, may be the clever clogs had wired his own twin electric system, if it helps the OEM cable is Black. Take a look at www.newtis.info there are wiring diagrams which may give clues Happy Hunting Dave

Morning Billy Not done this but a good upholstery adhesive would be my guess, as to the fix I would think it would need to have the liner removed to make an effective fix. Have a look at www.realoem.com put the last 7 digits of your Vin into the search box it will bring up your model. I find the exploded drawings helpful and you will have correct part numbers if buying stuff. The other helpful site is www.newtis.info this one is a BMW Technical information site Dealers use this for repair/replacement and how to's Good Luck Dave

The Lotus was Brutal so if there were going to be issues I would have found them?? Progress for you

Hi Daniel Smart move removing all the dodgy stuff, normally when a towbar is fitted the rear parking sensors are disabled when the trailer electrics are plugged in. The parking sensor control unit has 3 plug positions on the top 1. rear sensors 2. front sensors 3. Bypass for tow pack.. Not sure how much you are into BMW's but here are a couple of websites that may help. 1) www.realoem.com This is a BMW Online Parts List put the last 7 digits of your Vin into the search box it will bring up your Model so if you need spares you know it's right for your car..It also has small exploded drawings that help with where stuff fits. 2) www.newtis.info This is a Technical Information site that the DEalers use for replacement/repair information. Good Luck Dave

Hi Katie I think you have been treating symptoms not the problem. Did you cure the lean running? if not a lean burning engine will run hot which could cause valve damage and/or cylinder head issues. Which may explain the loss of coolant with out an apparent leak was this fixed? First I would get a BMW specific diagnostic tool there are several available INSTA/INPA BMW 1.4.0 Carly for BMW (I use BMW 1.4.0) From your initial description I would have checked the Thermostats (x2) and checked the inlet for leaks (to much air entering after the Airflow meter will give a lean burn. A BMW Diagnostic session is the answer to save your wallet more pain. To help here are a couple of sites that may help (1) www.realoem.com This is a BMW Online Parts list to ensure if you are buying parts Used or New they are right for your car. Put the last 7 digits of your Vin into the Search box it will bring up your model. (2) www.newtis.info This one is a BMW Technical Information site Dealers use this site for "How To" Information. (3) www.pelicanparts.com A USA site with great "Hoe To" information with pictures. Good Luck Dave

Morning Daniel Welcome to the Forum That doesn't look good I always thought that the correct kit was plug and play?? I would contact someone like PF Jones who are specialists in Tow Bar fittings and wiring I know guys with X5's have found them extremely helpful. Good Luck Dave

Morning Murray and Fiona Welcome to the Forum In answer to your questions "TREVOR" Enjoy Dave

Hi Jamie Welcome to the Forum The diff provides power to one wheel normally the one with least traction so one rear tyre often sees more wear due to momentary slip at pull away. Quite easy to do when you think your car produces a little more torque than an E46 M3? Also what tyres are fitted and how worn were they when you brought it, if the previous owner had a heavy right foot the tyre on that side may have had more wear before you sat in it. Some tyres have softer compounds grip better but wear faster, Pirelli PZero on my X5 as an example great tyre but lucky to get 15k Enjoy your new Beemer Dave

Morning Ian Dual mass fly wheels are used to reduce Noise Vibration and Harshness (NVH) and are now the norm on most manual cars. A dual mass flywheel is two parts bonded together with rubber, if (many say when) the rubber deteriorates is where they get noisy and need changing. My sons Toyota Pick up he had a solid fly wheel fitted a while back and I have to admit if there is a difference I can't hear or feel it. Then again the last car I owned that was a Manual was a (Lotus Carlton) in 90/91 and his truck has little in common with my 4.6is X5. I guess the issue will be is there a solid fly wheel kit available for the 520d ? Dave

Morning Nigel As a BMW tech I guess he has checked all the usual suspects such as Air/Vacuum leaks, Worn Throttle body, fuel delivery, partially blocked cat or cats (often overlooked on older models) Dave

Try the right section of the Forum Harvey

Morning John As the bolt is part of the chain tensioner system I would assume if it loosens you would get chain slap at start up and rattle/noise of some sort. If the guy you used is a reasonable mechanic then I would think that it has been torqued correctly so no reason for it to come loose new bolts have thread loc applied. I have never worked on the N47 engine however as the Timing chain is at the rear of the engine I know with BMW Main Dealers it's an engine out job, so I would think Fly wheel off as well to access the chain. So if the fly wheel was not seated correctly before it sounds as though he has corrected it. Being dual mass it has a bonded rubber section to remove vibration and noise it may be the rubber had been deformed previously? If it's running well Drive it and enjoy it Dave

Hi Trevor Despite the bad press and the efforts of some Dealers most are OK If you have a good one your on to a winner, don't dismiss the BMW Specialists their stamp in the service book is just as valid and with bigger services and labour rates of less than half the Dealerships they are competitive to say the least. ENJOY the Beemer Dave

😁 Good News

Hi Chris Welcome Glad you have the little devil identified. When buying take care as the return pipe is different for Hydro Power Steering and Dynamic Power Steering Good Luck Dave

Hi John Welcome to the Forum You say "you" replaced the Timing Chain and Flywheel? The crack in the mounting will depend on whether the correct torque can be achieved ? If it can on a test tightening I would be inclined to use some thread loc and go with it. Otherwise repairs would mean a complete strip down or even a block. The Flywheel I am confused if it wasn't fitted flush with the crank boss previously there would be serious vibrations at certain revs surely? Did you replace the flywheel with a dual mass unit? Is the mechanic in there because of issues? Dave

Hi Ben Is the oil level in the transfer case correct plus is it ATF not hypoid like the Diffs (Check realoem or newtis)? Then read faults, clear faults re-read. Start and drive it is also worth checking the switch as above Clutching at straws here, when they changed the actuator gear did the actually check/change the transfer case oil? Some tests and things you can do for free, Reverse slowly on full lock any snatching indicates transmission wind up which will effect the Transfer box and Diffs. Check the tyres, are pressures correct. With the steering straight ahead make a chalk mark at the bottom of each tyre roll forward a couple of rotations they should all be pretty much in line. If not transmission wind up is going to happen. Drive the car and stop window or door open if you hear any clicking noise something is still not right with the actuator motor Change the transfer case oil Check the activation (DSC) switch on the dash. Just a check what diagnostic program are the |Garage using? Dave