Greydog

Morning Kenny That is quite a list but the only reading for the transmission says "No Faults" ?? First if you examine the fault list many are repeated suggesting they were triggered probably by low voltage at the battery at some point and held in the memory. Also many are related an obvious example is the CID and IKE (instrument cluster) and LCM (light module) faults. Autologic doesn't identify between Fault present and Fault memory. The result as you see is repeated faults. Question did they clear down the faults and re-scan (I doubt it) the first action should be clear all faults and a re-scan that will show only present/actual faults. Your LCM faults trigger faults upstream and down stream, Do your instruments work OK and light up? Does the HVAC work? Now the gearbox was it/has it been slipping or making hard changes? Or did you just put it in for a service? The box in my X5 deals with similar torque to yours plus a bit more HP it lives a hard life towing a couple of fat horses about during the summer and a fair bit of off road stuff. Tempt fate now, it's covered close to 160k (regular Fluid changes) they told me the TC was on it's way about 50k ago (showing Lock Up Faults) I treated it to a tube of DR Tranny and yes the TC is getting noisy but it still drives well all changes up and down are smooth (oh and TC lock up fault hasn't returned). So how does it drive? what errors/warning lights are on the dash? If I were you I would get myself a copy of INPA/ISTA, you can buy a copy already mounted on a laptop should be about £150 or so, probably about the same as the cost of the list you have? It will give you the ability to scan your own car it will interrogate ALL modules and you have the ability to reset and rescan, plus it should have a copy of TIS (BMW technical information) you will learn that a fault code can be a symptom not always the cause. One of our sons has a Toyota Pickup the EML popped up so he came around and used a scanner O2 sensor pre-cat was the fault. As it was going in for service he didn't reset the light, the Garage rang him "new O2 sensor needed he picked the truck up drove 5 miles EML came on. Back to the garage (Toyota Dealer) must be a faulty sensor so changed again off he went only for the EML to come on?? On the Saturday morning we found 3 perished Vacuum lines on the inlet side we replaced them all no more EML I would just not trust their diagnosis particularly if your cars driving OK Dave

Morning Joey Just looked back at my notes when we did it, First there is a cover strip that runs across the top of the front bumper/nose above the grills, this needs lifting and prising out. Then the rubber closing strip that covers the joint with the inner/outer wing needs removing. Now the two trim strips either side can have the plastic rivets lifted 6 aside from memory then the trims can be removed. In the wheel arch there are torx bolts 3 each side holding the liner, peel back the liner. There are 2 bolts holding the bumper to the bumper iron, now undo the screws above the grills and the bumper lifts forward. Careful of electrical and washer connections. Support the bumper (we put a blanket over it to protect the paint). Now there are just 2 really fiddly to get at torx bolts that hold each headlamp in place move the headlamp forward and change the bulb !! SO SIMPLE !! Having done it once I guess I could probably do it in 30 to 45 mins now, it was the head scratching working out how it went together/came apart that took the time. My local Dealer's hourly rate is close to £200 per hour (someone has to pay for the free coffee) so a Diagnostic session £130 is about par for the course.

Morning Catherine Welcome to the Forum From what I have read just about all the "Plug in Hybrids" not just BMW to achieve the "Quoted" mileage on battery only conditions have to be perfect and all accessories turned off. So Radio, Climate Control, Heater, Lights no phone charger plugged in. Then drive really slowly below the threshold where the engine kicks in. Even then you may not get the "Quoted" distance's like published MPG and CO2 emissions these are often achieved in laboratory not on the road so the conditions can be optimised. I have neighbours who have had Lexus Hybrids for years (His n Her's) then he went all electric with a Tesla. In the real world they both joke that the battery is to leave home without waking anyone up !! The Lexus will give 8 to 10 miles battery only so more for sitting in traffic than driving and the Tesla 280 miles Quoted and he has never achieved better than 180 real world he does love it though. They keep the Lexus for long distance's after a very fraught journey in the Tesla finding a couple of charging points not working!! Like the early laptops and phones there is a way to go yet in their development. As an engineer the fact we haven't yet worked out what to do with the batteries at end of life is a concern, Tesla proudly proclaim that 60% will be re-purposed/recycled? what about the other 40%? For me batteries are not the answer to costly to the environment in manufacture and disposal. We need more investment in Fuel cell technology that will be the way forward. Enjoy your Beemer Dave

OK Matey Let me have a dig in the garage tomorrow I think I should have a disk somewhere Dave

hi Paul Check www.realoem.com Dave

Morning Bill Welcome to the Forum First from your description and the fact a local specialist has quoted "new Amp" suggests he has seen it a few times before? There are several companies that repair this type of Unit BBA Reman, ECU Testing and Cartronix are all people I have used in the past good turnaround. However as the Amp is Plug and Play I would ask the Repairer for a cost and check it against second hand unit cost and maybe just change it and put your original unit back so you retain Bluetooth. Dave

Morning Stephen The summer wheel/tyre set up on my X5 4.6is is Front Type 87 91/2 J ET45 Rear Type 87 101/2 J ET30 tyres are Front 275 x 40x 20R Rear 315 x 35 x 20R Winters are 18" square set up 255 x 55 x 18 Wintrac Extreme My 20" Star Spoke type 87 are OEM that came with the car. Looking at the offset range you quote are these Aftermarket wheels ? Dave

Morning Joey Welcome to the Forum I have done this on the Brother Inlaws 535d Touring my politest description would be a total PITA of a job!! Not BMW's best effort it took quite a bit of head scratching to work out which pieces of trim had to come off just get access (be careful with the plastic rivets or have spares ready) it took two of us a Saturday morning there are some really fiddly to get at bolts holding the headlamps so keep the swear box handy 😆 Good Luck Dave

Morning Simon Take advantage of the "deals" at your main Dealer £450 is a good price (my main dealer is almost £200 per hour labour so I would question exactly what is done?) and never be shy about asking for discounts (at the Dealer or the Specialist) My Brother Inlaw is on his 4th 5 series touring 2 530d and 2 535d all have been ECU tuned, his current 2018 car is quite capable of embarrassing some high end stuff in the mid range acceleration but still gives good MPG (he has a big grin most of the time to) Dave

Morning Steve I take it you want to change to LED replacements, 4500k to 6000k would give the same look as the headlamps? I believe the LED bulb type is H11. Space is tight so check they fit if you can before buying, also check if they are sold as "Canbus Error free" if not you will need inline resistors (one for each lamp) to avoid bulb failure errors popping up. A google search should find you a supplier Dave

Yay bonus Richard Be interesting to know just which engines have and haven't got them? Brother inlaws 535d touring 2018 hasn't got one but next time they visit I will have a dig. Dave

Hi Welcome to the Forum Most Manufacturers have so called "condition based" service programs yet most are in reality time/distance based in the cars onboard computer. With modern synthetic oils most now stretch servicing to minimum once a year some two years?? Your history shows 5 oils changes so around 20k interval (personally I do mine twice in that time) plus the other time based items (brake Fluid etc) so Yes service history looks pretty much complete. If you are an engineer like me it is fun to tease the BMW service manager by asking him how the car measures oil viscosity and acidic content? Basic principles should apply tempered by common sense if you are covering high miles service more regularly if lower miles a minimum of annual servicing to make sure for MOT time. I would use a BMW Specialist as costs will be more sensible. A tip if you need to use the Warranty let the Garage talk to them as they will be well versed in what to say to get the right outcome. Enjoy your Beemer Dave

Check the loom to the glow plugs as well Dan on my sons Toyota pickup we had it apart a couple of times eventually he moved the loom and the fault disappeared. New loom was pretty cheap so he brought one no more Glow Plug issues. Dave

Morning Stephen Welcome to the Forum Those sizes are correct for a 19" staggered wheel set You could use a BMW Vin Checker (Google) and your cars Build sheet will come up you will be able to see what wheel type your car was ordered with. It will show something like Wheels type 448 Then check www.realoem.com (put the last 7 digits of your Vin into the search box) and it will give the part information and sizes If replacing Tyres make sure that all 4 are from the same manufacturer that way you stand a better chance of front/rear rolling radius's matching, if they dont you risk transmission/transfer case damage. Dave

Check the radio's onboard fuse (10a I believe)

Morning Dan Almost there Buddy, one thing I have learnt with diesels (and not just BMW) if the Glow plugs are iffy change them all and the control unit less pain in the long run. The glow plugs don't normally stop them starting though BMW love Comb Type earth points I had some weird electrical issues traced it to an earth point in the boot behind the spare. I brought some electrical contact paste from RS Components along with some contact spray unbolted the earth comb cleaned the mounting point and put it back with a smear of contact paste. The individual earth spade connections I gave a clean with contact cleaner. Dave

Hi Roger Welcome to the Forum You really need a diagnostic session to find the culprit, the list of "could be's" is long and expensive if your swapping bits Crankshaft sensor, Fuel rail pressure sensor, Inhibitor switch on the gear selector (try putting it in N and starting) Pin failure in the ECU As I say a code read should show up where the issue is Hope this helps not hinders Dave

Non Run-Flats 😁

Morning Stu I thought personal settings were a check box setting accessible with 1.4.0 ? Can't remember whether it's in IKE, LCM or ZKE if it's in the LCM settings it will depend on the version of LCM you have some of the early LCM II and LCM III versions didn't support much. Dave

Morning Alz Remember fault codes can often show the "symptom not the cause" one of our sons friends had a persistent O2 sensor fault they were changed twice by his garage. A Saturday morning on our drive and we found 3 perished vacuum hoses once they were replaced no more O2 sensor fault. So back to my original post, a build up of sooty deposits in the manifold and associated pipework can trigger the fault. On our sons Toyota truck it was a messy job needing the manifold to be removed but once done the result was like new. Dave

Morning Steve If the front and rear tyres are as your first post they are definitely wrong, a look at reaoem.com (a BMW parts list) shows wheels for your car as Front 8J x 19" ET37 Rear 9J x 19" ET39 with Tyres being Front 225/35 R19 88Y and Rear 255/30 R19 91Y. Personally I would change them to the correct sizes, you cam fit either runflat or Non-runflat tyres just make sure they are not CHEAP but a well recognised brand. If the tyres are legal and wear is even then the garage have done nothing wrong so you may get little or no help from them but worth a try to see if you can get at least a contribution. Dave

Hi Gary My Summer 20" type 87 wheels are ET45 Front running 275x40x20 102W ET30 Rear running 315x35x20 106W My Winter wheels are ET48 18" running 255x55x18 105H all round. I think you will be fine and the RR wheels will give it an individual look. As the RR L322 and the X5 shared so many parts across the two ranges. Many X5 owners who run square wheel sets fit spacers at the rear to fill the arches I have never bothered when the winters are on. Dave

Morning Gary Welcome to the Forum Don't worry about the typo 😄 E70 and X6 wheels will fit an X5 E53 just need spigot rings obviously it wont work the other way around 😄 Never seen RR wheels on an X5 before check www.realoem.com (it is a BMW online parts list) either search for your model or put your Vin (last 7 digits) in the search box it will bring up your model then check wheel section to check bore and offset against what your looking at. The only thing to take care of is if running a staggered wheel set (wider rear wheels) that you make sure the rolling radius front rear is as specified or transmission wind up and damage is likely. This applies to all AWD cars not just X5's Enjoy Dave

Morning Alz Welcome to the Forum When you changed the EGR did you clean the manifold? and associated pipework, I have done this job a couple of times on one of our sons Toyota pickup the amount of soot is accumulated is amazing. Also have you had the fault codes read? Dave

Morning Steve Are you sure of those tyre sizes ?? Normally I would expect to see 225x35x19 Front and 245x30x19 Rear When you had the cars alignment checked was it (a) 4 wheel alignment and (b) did they check tyre condition and pressures ? Your description seems to indicate tramlining (the car following contours in the road) quite common with runflats particularly when they are worn. Runflats by the nature and construction have very little flex so the tread when new allows flex as it wears as there is less flex the tyres grip makes it want to follow white lines and contours in the road. Get the suspension checked make sure everything is straight and no worn bushes with our potholed roads it takes a battering and if bushes are worn things can get vague in the steering department. Dave