Greydog

Hi Steve If you are seeing the Battery symbol then either the battery is on its way or there is an issue in the charging circuit. First step get the battery tested and changed if it needs it (if its the original it quite probably does) If the battery is OK then get the charging circuit checked it could be a faulty Voltage Regulator or Alternator. Dave

Hi Haziq Welcome to the Forum Try emailing Rusty at rustymidgetman@sky.com I have used his upgrades in 3 Beemers and a Mercedes always worked and always well priced Dave

Hi John I have read about a couple of Key Coding systems the AK90 being one of them but I have no experience of this kit and sorry I am not aware of anyone (that doesn't mean they are not there) maybe an Auto Locksmith? I think part of the problem is BMW separate the transponder/immobilizer from the Alarm/Central locking. So alter the program on one and you have an effect on the other. Were you having issues before or are you trying to add functions? Dave

Hi Andrew I would say yes, as you don't have any obvious leaks and the levels are OK just keep an eye on it Dave

Morning Andrew Welcome to the Forum The picture seems to show it is over filled plus not sure what the bits are, the coolant should be clean? First a litre+ is a lot of coolant so I would suspect a leak somewhere, the bits may well be where someone has added a leak stopper at some time. Have you noticed any drips/water under the car? If the car is not overheating (temp gauge sits in the middle) either keep an eye on the level (Note only open and check the coolant when the engine is cold) then it should be OK until you get it serviced (assuming you can't or don't want to DIY) Coolant should be G48 or possibly BMW Blue. A garage would pressure test the system to find any small leaks the warning light could be the level sensor at fault if the coolant level is OK I hope this helps Dave

Morning John I just replied to your earlier post. Dave

Morning John Welcome to the Forum Not sure what you are try to achieve here your key should have a transponder built in to the blade this communicates with the immobilizer allowing or preventing starting of the car. The key fob communicates with the EWS to activate or de-activate the central locking/alarm system. The Fob coding/re-coding process is as follows. Insert the key into the ignition and turn it to position 1 and back rapidly 5 times. Hold the unlock button and press the BMW logo 3 times, then release the unlock button. If you have additional keys you'd like to program at this time, repeat step 3 within 30 seconds from the original key programming. The transponder will need Dealer Level equipment I believe there are several instances of people accessing the EWS through the diagnostic port and trying to "re-program" that can be disastrous ending up with needing new EWS drivers door lock and ignition barrel, unless of course you are a programmer with clever kit. I hope this helps Dave

Morning Adam Welcome to the Forum Enjoy your BMW. Induction kits the normal suspects would I think be Pipercross or KN Dave

Morning Mark Welcome to the Forum Try https://www.mdecoder.com put the last 7 digits of your Vin into the search box and there you are. Dave

Morning Archie Welcome to the Forum Great information thanks for posting. Me I am one of the OLD lucky ones who still has a dip stick (why oh why take it away) so topping up or oil changes are simple Dave

Winner Winner 😁

Morning Justin A guy on one of the other forums picked up a full Alpina system for pennies on one of the Auction sites so worth keeping an eye open Were are you with power now ? past the 300 mark ? Good Luck Dave

Hi Rolf Welcome to the Forum Check www.realoem.com put the last 7 digits of your vin number into the search box it will bring up you model. The site is a BMW online parts list every part available for your model will be listed. If a rear wiper is available then it will be shown with all parts to fit it. You could also try www.newtis.info This one is a BMW Technical Information site Dealerships use this information for service and repair. Good Luck Dave PS Just had a look at newtis.info and a rear wiper is shown in the repair list so parts should be available with luck the loom should be there so only the control stalk, wiper and mounting for the motor and local looms will be needed plus a bit of coding to let the car know it's there.

Hi Justin My brother inlaw had a Stainless system on his second 530d which was remapped to around 300hp all I can remember is the cost of the system was around £1500, he had it fitted in Southend I think and that was about 5 years ago. Sounded good though Apart from contacting the specialist exhaust fabricators and getting quotes I don't have any other suggestions Dave

Hi Iko Welcome to the Forum Your basic engine is capable of handling about 300bhp beyond that then serious bottom end changes need to be thought about. It depends on how far you want to go but breathing is top of the list, so my thoughts would be look for the cylinder head from a 3.0i this would give bigger valves an more lift if you got it with the inlet and exhaust manifold I would expect around 220/230 bhp with very little issues with your engine assuming it is in good condition to start with. Forced induction brings a whole lot of additional considerations whether it is positive super charging (belt driven), turbo charging or NOS systems a simple fact is more air needs more fuel. So the fuel supply needs to be considered, fuel pump, injectors and ECU map, then the exhaust needs to be able to get rid of the extra gas, the cooling system also needs to be up to the extra heat generated. As already stated if your engine is in tip top condition then around 300bhp will be the limit on a stock bottom end with stock pistons and rods. To go further I would expect to line bore the block have the crank crack tested and nitrided and balanced then fit forged pistons and rods, upgraded oil pump. We haven't even discussed the drive train yet. Another option would be to scour the web for a complete engine or better yet donor car such as E90 335i (300+hp) E39 330i (270hp) I dont think there would be much difference in cost either way However the simplest would be trade up to a 530i or 540i less pain and you get the whole package brakes steering suspension the whole thing. Or a 535d similar hp but way more torque, and with a remap more torque than the M5 and its torque that accelerates your car? Worth considering Hope this helps not hinders Dave

Hi Roland BMW use Westfalia as OEM suppliers, here in the UK there are a large number of Tow Hitch suppliers and fitters who would be capable of doing the job including the wiring harness which would be included. Price for the kit here I would guess at around £600 to £650 fitted. As John says the wiring harness comes with a clever little switch box and disables the rear parking sensors and fog lamps when a trailer is plugged in. If your not aware 2000kg 4400lbs is your tow limit with the X3 Dave

Hi Stephen Welcome to the Forum Not sure if the 3 series suffer the same issue as 5 series but worth a look, sometimes the antenna in the 5 series mounted in the rear boot spoiler suffered water ingress causing the same symptoms. Try holding the key over the rear antenna to see if that helps with opening As your key starts the car there doesn't seem to be an issue with the transponder in the key only with the remote locking/alarm activation. Check out www.newtis.info to see what you can learn from there the site is a technical site, BMW Dealers use the same information for service and repair. Also look at www.realoem.com this one is a BMW online parts list so when buying spares you know it will be correct and fit. Dave Note you seem to have posted in the X5 section not the 3 Series section maybe the Mods could move it 👍

The clutch will not operate without gas pressure in the system.

Morning Andy Welcome to the Forum Sounds a Bargain Enjoy your new (to you) Beemer Keep it well serviced, my personal preference is for oil and filter changes every 5k as an old engineer I don't believe that extended service intervals help engines even with modern synthetic oils, My brother inlaw has a 530d touring (his 3rd) he commutes into Europe for work we carry out interim oil changes and the car is BMW dealer serviced for all other needs the current car is approaching 250k. All 3 have had the same treatment and have reached the starship mileages.Don't forget the gearbox and diff oils when servicing. A good ECU tune should see around 180hp which will make your 1 series very lively indeed, it goes with out saying Brakes, Suspension and Tyres need to be in tip top condition with any tuning upgrades ENJOY Dave

Hi Brent Welcome to the Forum First as a limited edition it will give it some value but only to those who (a) Know what it is (b) Want one Try contacting AC Schnitzer UK they should be able to give you more information/confirmation/history have you checked to see if there is an AC Schnitzer Register they should have a record of all models produced. Good Luck Dave

Check www.realoem.com put the last 7 digits of your vin number into the search box and it will call up your model. Then look in the wheels/tyres section it will show if a space saver was available for your combination Good Luck with the search Dave PS We have only suffered 1 puncture on all 3 cars in the last 10 years, that was a nail in my wifes rear tyre from one of the farriers not sweeping up?? Now she sweeps up after the farriers have been regardless. What I am trying to say is punctures today are a rarity normally on very worn tyres or a freak nail/screw like my wife's.

Morning Ian Your PanRoof I think will be your big head ache from what I have read there are a couple of "fixes" or a complete new cassette either way its a pain. That is why I searched for one without a sun roof. Personally I would fix the aircon and leave it shut. The aircon 99% will be gas, aircon systems loose a small amount of gas every year in general use so after 5 to 10 years will reach a point where there isn't enough pressure to operate. It is worse if it has been turned off for long periods, many think they are saving money by turning it off particularly in winter months. What happens is seals dry out and crack causing leaks, don't panic there aren't that many seals and they aren't expensive replacing seals is a DIY proposition. First I would get the system re-gassed even Kwick Fit have the right stuff. they just connect to a machine that first pulls a vacuum. If the system can't hold a vacuum the machine won't re-gas the system as it indicates a leak (leaks are normally seals, or possibly condenser (tip if it is a condenser leak change the dryer as well) They can put in a coloured dye that should show where it is. My first step would be re-gas if you want to DIY Halfords do re-gas kits as do good Motor Factors. I know what you mean about road works we seem to be surrounded at the moment (maybe a Government plot to stop us going anywhere 😈) that and as you say more traffic. As a retired Old Bloke I can avoid most sticky times 😁 Dave

Hi Martin Good to know your making progress In my garage I have the unused spare wheel complete with tyre from my 4.4 which ran 19" staggered alloys which you are welcome to. The problem is where would you carry it ? It would take up a far amount of room in the boot, I have a can of tyre goo and a small compressor which sits in the right hand rear cubby on the 4.6 and (tempting fate) I have only used it twice both times rescuing others. I never had a flat with the 4.4 and so far none with the 4.6. BMW actually supply the same compressor and tyre goo solution themselves.take a look at www.realoem.com Dave

Morning Ian Welcome to the Forum I haven't heard of fuse or relay issues normally regas is the answer, however I believe the relay is in the fuse box in the engine bay. Take a look at www.newtis.info this is a BMW technical site Dealers use the same information for service and repair. Also check www.realoem.com this one is a BMW online parts list put the last 7 digits of your vin into the search box it will bring up your model then check the sections there are small exploded drawings that should help locate stuff. You could also try www.pelicanparts.com another American site with loads of how too's and pictures apart from having the steering in the wrong place very helpful. You may also find some help with the Pan roof (not BMW's best effort) and fixes on these sites. Where have you been to find traffic !! You've been to the seaside haven't you😂 Dave

Hi Jason I did read about some early variable vane turbo issues but they were way back 2007/8 certainly in the UK there have been no big issues. I still put a lot of the problems down to extended service periods. The oil seals harden in the turbo particularly as the oil thickens with age/use 40k is along time on the road lots of heat cycles. The engine in the mini and its turbo are a joint venture with Citroen/Peugeot I believe and not known for their robust nature. As an aside one of my sons works for a company here who rebuild/recycle turbo chargers they cant get BMW stuff until it is beyond saving As always proceed with caution what is it they say "Head not Heart" and squeeze the life blood out of the dealer for Warranty and Support Packages Good Luck Dave